Large heat losses in the room and cold air blowing from the ceiling are a consequence of incorrect or poor-quality thermal insulation. Heat loss through the ceiling can reach 20%, since the heated air rises, and if there is no obstacle on its way that can keep it indoors, it will be “blown out”, just like your budget. Ceiling insulation measures must be carried out during the construction of the house. But if for some reason this did not happen, or the old thermal insulation has become unusable, you will have to do everything again. What are the ways to insulate a ceiling, how best to implement them in this or that case, what materials to use - these are the main questions that arise for owners. At the same time, it is important to do everything correctly so that the insulation does not become damp, condensation does not accumulate on the surface, and mold or mildew does not appear. And for this it is necessary to understand the very essence of the work performed and the processes occurring in the insulation.

Why and how to insulate the ceiling

What is meant by ceiling insulation? If it blows from above, from the side of the ceiling, we say “we need to insulate the ceiling,” but what actions are meant by this? In fact, there are several technologies, and which one is suitable in each specific case depends on the starting conditions.

In a private house, the ceiling insulation is always done from the upper room: be it the attic, the next floor or the attic. Laying thermal insulation material on top of the ceiling or in the voids of the ceiling ensures heat retention inside the room. At the same time, the height of the insulated room does not decrease, additional finishing of the ceiling is not required, and there is no need to install thermal insulation directly above the head, because it is not so easy to fix, and particles will penetrate into the living room. But the most important thing is that the processes occurring in the ceiling and thermal insulation material ensure warmth and dryness of the room and materials, condensation does not form and the insulation does not get wet.

What is the principle of attic insulation? It's no secret that the best insulation is air. All modern thermal insulation materials are essentially air enclosed in one way or another in a form. But how can you use air for insulation without paying for it? Our ancestors acted very wisely when they built houses with a gable roof and an extremely cold attic, which had two windows in the gables. Our climate allows us to play this situation to our advantage. The gable roof retains snow well, which also serves as insulation. A roof covered with snow retains heat so well that even if it is -25 °C outside, the temperature inside the attic is about 0 °C. The air trapped in the attic is an ideal insulator, the characteristics of which can be changed depending on the time of year or weather by opening and closing gable windows and ventilating the room. The floor of the attic was always insulated with bulk natural materials; together with air, this made it possible to maintain the temperature inside the heated room at +20 - +25 °C. Another advantage of insulating the floor in the attic is that the material does not become damp and can be dried by ventilating the room.

Extremely important! In order for the attic to serve as a heat insulator, the roof slope cannot be insulated from the inside. This will cause the snow on the roof to melt and icicles to form on the eaves. In addition, the structure of a non-insulated roof is always open for inspection and repair.

Important! An attic that is insulated on all sides and has heating is no longer an attic. This is an attic, more suitable for the climate warm countries Western Europe. The design and operation of the attic has its own rules.

In the apartment multi-storey building everything is a little different. It is not possible to insulate the ceiling or floor of the upper floor. And the problem of a drafty ceiling most often occurs among residents of the top floor. What to do? The only option is to insulate the ceiling from the inside of the room, although this is not recommended, there is no other choice.

When insulating the ceiling, it is important to remember this rule: each subsequent layer in the direction from the room must have greater vapor permeability.

Below we will look separately at ways to insulate an attic from the outside and inside.

Insulation of the ceiling from the outside (from the upper room)

Insulating the ceiling from the upper room involves laying heat-insulating material on top of the ceiling or in its voids, if any. As mentioned above, this is done in private houses and cottages. The type of insulation material and the technology for laying it depend on whether the floor is wooden or concrete. For flooring on beams, which is a wooden floor on joists, lightweight backfill materials or materials are suitable roll type. But for insulating a concrete slab, dense mats or slabs, as well as heavy backfill materials, are used.

One of the most ancient and time-tested methods of ceiling insulation is insulating the attic with sawdust. In some regions, you can buy sawdust for next to nothing or even get it for free if there is a woodworking plant nearby. Quite often, the company itself does not know where to put the sawdust, so stop by and take it at least every year. It is better to pour sawdust on top of wooden floors.

The only drawback this method the fact that the sawdust burns. Therefore, several different methods of insulation with sawdust have appeared.

Method 1. All the cracks in wooden floor coat the attic with clay, a little liquid. Sprinkle sand on top. If the clay suddenly cracks somewhere, sand will immediately be poured into the crack, and the integrity will be preserved. To protect sawdust from mice, add a layer of slaked lime mixed with carbide. Next comes the main layer - sawdust. For different regions, the thickness of this layer may be different, but the minimum is 150 - 200 mm, 250 - 300 mm is considered optimal. Since sawdust is a flammable material, a thin layer of waste slag is sprinkled on top of it, especially around hot communications - a chimney, for example. Nothing is laid on top. You can only lay out the boards for ease of walking in the attic.

Method 2. The floor surface must be protected from moisture. This can be done in two ways: the first is to lay a waterproofing film on the wooden floor that can allow steam to pass through from the side of the room, the second is to coat the entire floor with clay in the same way as in the first method. Then you need to mix sawdust with cement. To do this, take 10 parts of sawdust, approximately 1 - 2 parts of cement and 1.5 parts of water. First, sawdust is mixed with cement, then water is added. The sawdust must be slightly wet for the cement to adhere to it. The resulting mixture can be poured from above onto the attic floor or poured between the floor beams onto the subfloor. A layer of 200 mm will be enough. It is necessary to start doing all this work in the spring, so that the sawdust and cement have time to dry well over the summer (they take a long time to dry).

Important! It’s easy to check whether the sawdust has dried or not: just walk on it. Dried sawdust will not sag, but will slightly crunch.

Method 3. Similar to the second method. Only instead of cement, clay is used.

Method 4. Similar to the first method. There is no need to sprinkle slag on top. The sawdust can be spread on top with clay, only not very liquid, so that it does not spill deep inside.

Considering that expanded clay is a rather heavy material, it is not recommended to insulate wooden floors with it. There is too much risk that the wood deck will fail. Ceilings with concrete floors are insulated with expanded clay.

First of all, the surface of the concrete floor must be covered with a vapor barrier film. It should be laid with an overlap, and the joints should be taped. An overlap is made on the walls, approximately 40 - 50 cm. Wooden rafters and the chimney also need to be covered with a vapor barrier film.

Next, crumpled clay is placed on the film. And already on top - expanded clay. For better thermal insulation, use a mixture of large and small fractions of expanded clay. Then the fine grain will fill the voids, and the backfill will be more uniform. For cold climates, the expanded clay layer should be 50 cm. The 15 - 20 cm recommended in some sources will not save the situation. It is precisely because expanded clay needs to be covered in such a large layer for high-quality thermal insulation that it is rarely used.

A light cement-sand screed with a layer of 50 mm is placed on top of the expanded clay. The solution should be thick enough so as not to spill deep into the backfill. This way, the attic will have a fairly strong floor, and it can be used for storing something or as a boiler room. A big plus is also the complete fire safety and environmental friendliness of this method.

Clay is an ancient building material whose applications are varied and multifaceted. Clay itself is not used in insulation, since for effective thermal insulation its layer must be simply colossal - 50 - 80 cm. A wooden ceiling cannot withstand such a weight, and such a thickness of backfill is simply impractical; it is better to choose a modern material.

Therefore, to insulate the ceiling, clay is used in a mixture with sawdust.

First, the floor is covered with a vapor barrier film that does not allow water to pass through. Next, you can prepare a clay-sawdust solution. Water is poured into a large barrel, to which 4 - 5 buckets of clay are added. The clay is then mixed in water until the water turns a dirty color and the clay almost dissolves. Next, part of the resulting mixture is poured into a concrete mixer and covered with sawdust. As mixing progresses, more water is added. As a result, the solution should be neither liquid nor thick.

An excellent option for insulating the ceiling in the attic wooden house- mats made of reeds. Modern reed mats, tied with twine or wire, are simply laid staggered on top of the floors. It is better if there are 2 layers, the second of them will overlap the joints of the mats of the first layer, removing “cold bridges”. The disadvantage of this method is the fire hazard.

For those who want to insulate the ceiling with natural materials, seaweed is suitable. In coastal regions, this material can be bought for pennies, and if you really want, you can order delivery to another region. The advantage of seaweed ladders is that they do not harbor mice, they are hypoallergenic and even medicinal, as they are saturated with iodine and sea ​​salt, the vapors of which are beneficial and also do not support combustion and do not smoke. Insects and microorganisms do not grow in algae.

Seaweed is not afraid of moisture, so there is no need to vapor barrier the floor. The ladders are laid directly on the ceiling or floor in a layer of 200 mm. You can install a floor on top or lay boards for ease of movement.

Ecowool or cellulose wool is a modern material that is positioned as natural. To reduce flammability, it is treated with fire retardants or boric acid. Ecowool absorbs moisture, so there is no need to lay a vapor barrier film.

Ecowool is laid immediately on wooden or concrete floors. This requires a special blowing installation, thanks to which all the cracks are blown in, the insulation layer becomes monolithic and saturated with the air contained inside. For most regions of the Russian Federation, a layer of ecowool of 250 mm is sufficient, but in colder regions it is better to make 400 - 500 mm.

The technology for insulating the ceiling with ecowool sometimes includes spraying water. It is needed in order to speed up the process of lignin formation. Then after 1 - 3 weeks a crust appears on top of the ecowool. Due to the fact that this material tends to cake, it is always necessary to take a margin of 5 - 15%.

Penoplex is a representative of the family of extruded polystyrene foams. This material is stronger than polystyrene foam, which means it can be used to insulate concrete floors before pouring a concrete floor on top. A good option for insulating the ceilings of the first or second floor of a low-rise private house.

It is not recommended to insulate the ceiling with Penoplex if the floors are wooden. The fact is that EPS is absolutely not a “breathable” material. As a result, in wooden structures Moisture will accumulate, which will lead to the appearance of mold and mildew.

Before laying Penoplex on a concrete floor, the latter must be checked for unevenness. First, the surface is leveled, only then can a vapor barrier material be laid.

Then the Penoplex slabs are laid out. Be sure to take a running start. They are attached to the surface with special dowels with a mushroom cap. The joints between the slabs are filled polyurethane foam. After the foam has dried, a cement-sand screed with a layer of 50 mm is poured on top. It will serve as a durable floor for the attic or second floor.

Ceiling insulation with mineral wool (Ursa)

The most popular modern material for ceiling insulation is mineral wool. One of the manufacturers of thermal insulation materials based on minerals or fiberglass is the Ursa company, whose product range includes both rolled items and rigid slabs.

Ursa mineral wool in rolls is good for insulating wooden floors; it is convenient to lay it between beams. But rigid mineral wool slabs are used for thermal insulation of concrete floors, although it can also be used for wooden floors.

Ceiling insulation with Ursa is carried out as follows:

For wooden floors. A vapor barrier material is laid between the floor beams. Its installation is mandatory, since mineral wool is afraid of moisture. The film is spread with an overlap, and the joints are taped, an overlap of 15 - 25 cm is made on the walls. Next, rolls of Ursa mineral wool with a thickness of 100 to 250 mm are laid between the beams, depending on heat loss calculations. The material must enter the space with force. To do this, it must be cut with a small margin of 2 cm more than the distance between the beams. Then there are two ways: the first - you can leave the mineral wool open, but then it will be impossible to walk on the floor, the second - you can make a wooden floor on top, leaving a gap of 3 mm between the mineral wool and the floor boards. The advantage of mineral wool is its fire safety.

For concrete floors. The concrete surface is leveled and then covered with a vapor barrier film. Mineral wool slabs are laid on top, always spaced apart. Next, a wooden floor or flooring made of boards, plywood, etc. is installed. It is not recommended to screed over mineral wool, since concrete has low vapor permeability, which means that the main rule of thermal insulation will not be observed.

Ceiling insulation with foam (polyurethane foam)

Polyurethane foam is a modern material that is advertised everywhere as the most ideal insulation for ceilings and attics. The advantages of this material are non-flammability, good adhesion, neutrality to microorganisms and insects, waterproofing and soundproofing properties, resistance to temperature fluctuations, and the absence of cold bridges. The disadvantage is complete vapor tightness; this has a bad effect on the microclimate of the room.

Ceiling insulation with polyurethane foam is carried out only by an organization specializing in this. The material is sprayed under high pressure so that it is blown into all the cracks and envelops protruding elements - columns, etc. The layer is usually 10 - 12 cm.

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside

An extremely undesirable measure is to insulate the ceiling from inside the room. In addition to reducing the overall height of the room, there is an extremely high risk of heat-insulating material or its evaporation entering the room, as well as the likelihood of mold and mildew appearing in the insulation. But if there is no other way out, you will have to at least take into account a number of restrictions: do not use mineral wool and form ventilation gap between the insulation and the ceiling finish.

Ceiling insulation with extruded polystyrene foam (Penoplex)

Eps is a good option for insulation concrete ceiling. First, the sheathing is nailed onto which the drywall will later be attached. The height of the sheathing beam should be 2 - 3 mm greater than the thickness of the insulation. The pitch between the slats should be equal to the width of Penoplex minus 1 - 2 mm. Next, the insulation is stuffed between the sheathing; it must fit in with force. For greater reliability, it must be secured to the ceiling with dowels. Then plasterboard is attached to the sheathing and a suspended ceiling is obtained. Instead of drywall, you can install a suspended ceiling.

Penofol is foamed polyethylene, one side of which is foil-coated. Its thermal insulation properties are not that great, but if the heat loss is not too great, it may be sufficient.

It is necessary to fill the ceiling with a lath, to which Penofol is attached, with the foil side facing the room. It can be nailed to the sheathing. It is necessary to create a ventilation gap on both sides of this material, so another sheathing is placed on top of it, to which drywall is attached. A stretch ceiling option is also possible.

The second way to insulate a ceiling with Penofol is to use it in combination with Penoplex.

In addition to the Penoplex insulation method described above, Penofol is applied to the sheathing, and only then plasterboard.

Insulation of the ceiling with heat-insulating plaster mixtures

For some unknown reason, the option of insulating the ceiling with special heat-insulating plaster mixtures is not popular. But in vain. This is an excellent material for insulating concrete ceilings. Plasters are absolutely environmentally friendly, decorative, do not suffer from moisture and steam, do not burn and are not afraid of fungus or mold. Among the materials from UMKA there are items that can be used indoors.

Insulating the ceiling with white agglomerate of cork tree bark is an environmentally friendly natural method of insulation. It is convenient to use cork when installing an Armstrong-type suspended ceiling, attaching it to the sheathing. The use of a vapor barrier is not necessary, since cork is not afraid of moisture.

The methods of ceiling insulation described above are the most common, but the general list does not end there. There are many other natural and synthetic materials that can be used to insulate the attic of a private home. When choosing this or that method and material, be sure to take into account the overall concept of your home. For example, insulating the ceiling of an environmentally friendly wooden house with Penoplex or Penofol is at least stupid. To keep the wood dry and give it the opportunity to “breathe,” you need to choose natural, vapor-permeable materials, such as seaweed, reeds, sawdust or ecowool. And for a house made of concrete, foam concrete or brick, EPS and polyurethane foam are perfect.

The need to insulate a concrete ceiling from the inside often arises among owners of the upper floors of buildings with flat roof. If it is possible to insulate the ceiling from the attic side, then this is the best option to keep the apartment warm.

Multi-storey buildings in cities traditionally have interfloor ceilings made of concrete slabs. Some private houses have the same floors, resting on the foundation or its continuation - the ground floor, where utility rooms for various purposes are located.

Floor slab– ceiling and floor at the same time in apartment buildings. The slabs rest on load-bearing walls, the ceiling is covered with several slabs. The sealing of the seams between the slabs and the places where the slabs rest on the walls are cracking: either due to shrinkage of the building, or bad work builders. Part of the heat leaves apartments precisely through the joints of the slabs: wall or ceiling.

Houses in need of major repairs are usually insulated outside using thermal fur coat method. This method is applicable for insulating the ceiling from the inside. Having some construction skills, you can insulate the ceiling from the inside yourself.

Houses that were built 20-30 years ago were designed taking into account maintaining heat in the house with excessive consumption of thermal energy. This is due to the fact that gas and electricity were cheap, and therefore the requirements for thermal conductivity of building panels were low. But the times of cheap energy consumption are over; houses still operate with heat losses, for which the owners pay.

The natural desire to reduce heat loss is insulate the building. There are enough methods and materials for this.

Recommendation. How to determine the number of insulation sheets? To do this, you need to know the geometric dimensions of the ceiling and the dimensions of the purchased insulation sheets. Make a drawing of the ceiling to scale (a squared piece of notebook paper will do) and mark the layout of the sheets to scale. Try options with the least waste. It is advisable to start from the central axis, this way symmetry will be maintained.

But if putty is supposed to be applied over the material, this condition is not necessary.

In the course of the work that you will now see, decide what tool and material you need.

1. Preparing the ceiling. Remove loose plaster, seal cracks and cracks cement mortar. Apply two coats of primer perpendicular to each other.

2. Ceiling leveling: using a thin layer of putty if the ceiling is flat, or immediately after priming, level the ceiling with a 50 x 50 or 50 x 70 mm beam along the location of the slabs and at a distance so that the joint falls on the central axis of the beam.

The primer is applied with a roller or brush. If the ceiling is smooth and covered with a thin layer of putty, then make notches with a spatula, clean it and prime it with a spray bottle: this additionally blows away dust from the ceiling, and the primer under pressure penetrates deeper into the pores of the concrete slab.

3. Then apply a sheet of insulation, mark the boundaries of the sheet and apply a layer of 1-2 mm KNAUF Sevener plaster-adhesive mixture and smooth with a comb spatula.

4. To the prepared place glue the sheet.

On the second and subsequent sheets at the joints at the end apply glue, we apply and try to the panel fits tightly to the ceiling, and to the panel, leaving no gap. Then we fix each panel with plastic umbrellas in the corners and center of the panel with 75 mm self-tapping screws. The umbrellas should be slightly recessed into the surface of the panel, and the recesses should be leveled with the mixture. Then we prepare the surface for reinforcement with rolled mesh. The mesh width is 1 m, apply a layer of glue to the foam from wall to wall.

5. Apply the mesh to the putty. Glue and iron with a spatula.

6. After mesh reinforcement, perform putty with a mixture of “Knauf Finish”. This work is done by master finishers. After complete drying, grout the entire surface of the ceiling with a special board with mesh No. 120.

Result of the work:

• Done ceiling soundproofing. A damping layer of putty is applied between the ceiling and the foam;
• The ceiling was insulated with foam plastic 20 mm thick;
• The ceiling is painted with moisture-resistant paint. This means that the insulation is protected from moisture.

The second option for insulating the ceiling using lathing wooden beams will do when the ceiling height allows it. The height of the beam will be added. You can use another 12 mm insulation panel ISOTEX Alaska. These panels, as stated on the packaging, are seamless. After their installation, no additional cladding is needed.

They are given instructions on how and with what to attach them, but only professionals can do the work with these panels. There are also standard methods insulation – suspended ceiling systems, where insulation is placed in the gap between the ceilings.

Insulation of the ceiling in the basement of an apartment building

The choice of insulation method depends on the purpose of the basement:

• Premises for storing agricultural products;
• Placement of heating and plumbing equipment;
• Arrangements for gyms, billiard rooms;
• Premises for other purposes.

Of these, it is necessary to indicate: heated And unheated basements. This is important for residents of the first floors of apartment buildings. As a rule, residents insulate concrete floor slabs with basements with a device additional thermal insulation on the floor side. It is not only effective, but also cheaper.

In most cases, it is necessary to open the floors before cement screed, eliminate defects (potholes, cracks); You can additionally pour a thin layer of self-leveling cement mortar, and after hardening, make a substrate from the thermal insulating material Parkolag from ICOPAL - a Finnish thermal insulating substrate for laminate, linoleum, parquet.

This substrate is laid on a flat surface of a cement screed without waterproofing or vapor barrier, because the bottom layer of the substrate has micro-gaps with the floor and this achieves ventilation between the laminate and the concrete floor.

In another case, in the basements of some houses there are storage facilities for agricultural products. In addition to maintaining a certain temperature, such cellars must be dry so that the food lasts longer. Warm air, rising upward, encounters a barrier in the form of a cold cement slab, where it cools to the “dew point” on its surface and falls in the form of droplets from the ceiling. To prevent this from happening, you must prevent warm air from coming into contact with the stove. Adjustable ventilation arrangement temperature regime will solve this problem, but we need to see what kind of energy consumption occurs.

A simple vent device natural ventilation, directs the convection flow in the desired direction and prevents air vapor from depositing on the surface of the stove. Another thing is maintaining the temperature. This is where it is necessary to insulate the ceiling, and possibly the entire basement room, in order to increase the temperature inside. The insulation method is not new - it is the same as for walls:

• Mounted to the ceiling, wall to wall additional beams: edged board 20 mm thick and 100 mm wide, impregnated with an antiseptic solution, attached to the ceiling with an edge using corners along the entire length with a distance of 50-60 cm between them.
• The junctions with the ceiling are foamed with polyurethane foam. Between the beams prepared in this way, lay roll insulation, then the vapor barrier is secured with a stapler, and the seams are taped.
• Then a spacer strip 10-15 mm thick is nailed along the beams.
• They cut sheets of gypsum board or gypsum board "Knauf", you can use moisture-resistant plywood and sew them to the slats.

You can use a stainless metal profile, attaching it to the ceiling on hangers and also laying thermal insulation with subsequent filing of gypsum boards.

Insulation of a concrete ceiling in the basement of a private house

Additional rooms for various uses are being built in the basements of private houses. The insulation of agricultural product storage premises is similar to that for the basements of apartment buildings. It’s another matter when they insulate basements for the purpose of additional space for living activities.

Such rooms are usually always heated. Their heat is insulated when the basement is located under a terrace, garage or other unheated rooms. The method of insulation is the same as for apartments with attic floors, if it is not possible to insulate from the outside.

Advice. Properly organized ventilation of the room helps to avoid the formation of condensation. Try to leave gaps between insulating materials, use membrane-type films to create a vapor barrier.

Insulation of a concrete ceiling in a private house

If it is possible to insulate the ceiling from above, then the scheme is as follows.

On the side of the heated basement, in order to preserve heat, it is recommended insulate walls, and the ceiling is more insulated for sound insulation purposes, so high-density foam plastic is attached to the ceiling with an adhesive solution. Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) boards can also be attached. This material has a dense structure and high thermal insulation and sound insulation properties.

In addition to the above methods, a more expensive method may be suitable - applying a polyurethane foam (PPU) layer to the insulated surface. Without special equipment, high-quality components for foam formation, mixing and application technology, it is impossible to make thermal insulation yourself.

So, to successfully insulate your basement, determine the cause of heat loss, the location of the leak, and the formation of condensation in the insulation.

Attention! The first sign that the basement has poor thermal insulation is the appearance of an unpleasant odor in the apartment on the lower floors. This is manifested by the deposition of dampness on carpets lying on the floor. Mold may develop, which can negatively impact your health.

The situation urgently needs to be corrected. For questions regarding thermal insulation of basements, please contact specialized construction organizations. A specialist will determine the method of thermal insulation of a particular room. Additional waterproofing or installation of drainage systems may be required. This will be determined by a specialist from the company involved in complex works on thermal insulation, ventilation of premises. Only a professional approach to this problem will reduce the costs of this work. ( 2 ratings, average: 5,00 out of 5)

/ How to insulate a concrete ceiling?

How to insulate a concrete ceiling?

Concrete ceilings can cause a lot of trouble for the owners of an apartment or private house with reinforced concrete floors. The main problem is their ability to perfectly transmit noise from neighbors and poor heat-saving characteristics. Only owners of apartments in high-rise buildings face the problem of noise from neighbors, but the problem of insulating a concrete ceiling affects all owners of both apartments and private houses. Therefore, next, we will talk about the insulation of such floors.

Options for arranging an insulating layer

The most important factor when creating a heat-saving layer will be the type of construction. If this a private house, then all work can be carried out from the attic, but in a city apartment, this is only possible on the last, upper floors of buildings. But, usually it is the residents of these apartments who feel the need for this procedure.

IN apartment building, you will have to insulate from the inside of the premises, and here the choice of material will be of great importance - it should be as thin as possible, and at the same time retain heat very effectively.

In private houses, you can carry out insulation work by laying a heat insulator in the internal cavities of the ceilings. There's a lot that can be used here various materials– from sawdust to the most modern heat-insulating coatings.

Material selection

Insulation can be done using almost the same materials that are used for other types of buildings. The only difference will be that the reinforced concrete floors are not hollow, and it will not be possible to take advantage of the existing voids.

The main and most popular insulation, regardless of the type of construction, is mineral wool. It has many advantages over other types of insulating materials, but it also has a significant drawback - it is necessary to lay a sufficiently thick layer of mineral wool to ensure high-quality thermal insulation.

If the height of the room where the ceiling is supposed to be insulated is not too large, using mineral wool is not the best idea. It will “eat up” too much space under the ceiling. The only option when this parameter will not be of fundamental importance is thermal insulation of the ceiling of the upper floor of the building. All work can be done from the outside of the ceiling, and this will not in any way affect the existing height of the rooms.

The second, no less popular insulation material, which is used with great success for the same purposes in city apartments and private houses, is polystyrene foam. It is laid in a much thinner layer, which no longer reduces the height of the premises so much. It can also be used for outdoor installation.

All bulk insulation, such as expanded clay, or mixtures of sawdust with various other materials, can only be used externally. They cannot be used indoors for thermal insulation of the ceiling.

Insulation methods

The only difference in the methods will be that some of the heat insulators can be mounted on a specially constructed frame, and some can be laid on the outside of the ceiling, which is the floor in the upper room.

From the inside of the rooms, you can simply glue foam tiles to the ceiling, immediately obtaining both the design of the ceiling with a beautiful finishing material and a small heat-saving layer.

But such insulation, as a rule, is not enough. More significant measures need to be taken. And with this, the same polystyrene foam can help, but with a greater thickness than decorative tiles.

Its advantage is that you can glue foam boards directly onto the ceiling using regular tile adhesive. After gluing, the foam plastic is plastered over the mesh and finished finishing layer decorative covering. The method is inexpensive, but requires fairly good plasterer skills for subsequent finishing.

If you don’t have such skills, you can use any insulation, like mineral wool. They are not just attached to the ceiling, but placed in a special frame. It has to be collected.

Assembling the base is exactly the same as for any suspended ceiling system. First, in the frame base, . The overlap of adjacent strips must be at least 10 centimeters. All joints of the material are taped with reinforced construction tape.

On top of the insulation, another pass is made with a vapor barrier, gluing all joints and overlaps.

After this, you can install a plasterboard finish on the frame, or use another finish. One option could be plastic or wood-imitating panels.

When creating a heat-saving pillow outside, all work begins with laying a vapor barrier film or glassine. Other vapor barriers can also be used.

Next comes the insulation. Options are possible here, since on the outside there is usually an attic, the height of which can be sacrificed and cheaper types of insulation can be used, which require laying in a thick layer.

If you plan to walk on an insulated surface, it is necessary to lay joists for the future floor. The cells obtained after their installation are placed sequentially - a vapor barrier film or other types of insulators, an insulating layer, and again a vapor barrier.

The subfloor is laid on the sheathing slats, which is subsequently covered with a finishing coating.

Conclusion

Insulating a concrete ceiling is not that difficult. The problems that arise are usually associated not with the insulation process itself, but with the consequences of constructing a heat-saving structure if it is located indoors.

Therefore, if possible, concrete floors should be insulated from the outside, and not from the inside.

The issue of reducing heat loss in a building is very acute. After all, only losses through attic floor increase operating costs by 10-15%. So there’s no need to even talk about the need for thermal insulation for a long time; the main question is formulated this way - how and with what to insulate the attic floor effectively.

Insulation of beam attic floors.

Reducing the heat loss of floors is done by backfilling certain types of heat-insulating material, or laying roll or slab types of insulation between beams. First, a layer of vapor barrier is installed; when using foil materials, installation is done with the foil down (toward the underlying living quarters). If the attic already had an insulating layer, then before installing additional carpet, the attic must be thoroughly ventilated to remove excess moisture. When insulating the area near the eaves, we lay the material so that there are ventilation gaps. It is recommended to place wind and waterproofing on top of the laid layer of thermal insulation to prevent precipitation from entering the material in emergency cases.

Insulation of slab floors.

These works are carried out similarly to those described above, the only exception concerns vapor barriers. Since the design of reinforced concrete slabs has low vapor permeability, the use of additional insulation is not required. We’ve sorted out the first part of the question - how and with what to insulate the attic floor, let’s move on to the second half.

Types of insulation for attic floors.

The most effective is the use of the following thermal insulation materials:

• Bulk. The cheapest, but quite effective material. Various production wastes are used as backfill; it can be slag or sawdust. Expanded clay, a material with low specific gravity and good thermal characteristics, has proven itself to be excellent. Sometimes foam granules are used, but in this case there is a high probability of rodents breeding in the attic.
• Roll materials. A representative of this family is the well-known glass wool and its varieties. It has excellent heat-insulating properties and is easy to install. True, this material cannot be classified as environmentally friendly, but its use in non-residential attics is quite justified. Moreover, it is economically beneficial and also meets fire safety requirements.
• Slab insulation. The most popular material is mineral (basalt) wool. Produced by various manufacturers, they differ in size and thermal performance. For attic insulation

ceilings, cotton wool of different densities and thicknesses is used. Sometimes, in order to reduce heat loss, polystyrene foam, in particular extruded polystyrene, is used. This material is a good insulator, but there are also several negative factors. Firstly, these are the already mentioned rodents, and secondly, the increased fire hazard of the material. Although polystyrene foam is positioned by manufacturers as a self-extinguishing, non-flammable insulation material, it still has a tendency to catch fire. During the combustion process, substances that are unsafe for humans are released.

• IN Lately Material such as penoizol is becoming popular. Despite the significant cost, insulation using this technology is very effective. But performing such work requires special equipment and is carried out only by specialized organizations.

The thickness of the thermal insulation layer for the attic floor is selected depending on the climatic conditions in the region and the characteristics of the material itself. At the same time, along the perimeter of the ceiling, at the junction with the roof, for 1 meter, it is recommended to increase the layer by half of the design values.

Any investment in building insulation is good accommodation financial resources, because thanks to savings on energy resources, such work pays off very quickly and begins to make a profit.

How to solve the problem of heat loss, which is inherent in any roofing structure? Especially if this question concerns a building that was built a long time ago. There is only one answer, insulation! Foam plastic is quite suitable for this purpose, and it can be used both outside and inside the building.

When choosing the type of flooring for a future home, the general concept of the structure is of great importance. It is unlikely that anyone would think of using a metal I-beam or reinforced concrete beam as a ceiling in a wooden cottage. There are certain rules and regulations that impose their own limitations on the design and make their own adjustments.

The article touches on the issue of choosing insulation for the roof of residential and non-residential premises. Detailed descriptions of application are also provided. thermal insulation materials depending on climatic conditions and design features of insulated buildings.

How and with what to insulate the attic floor of a residential building

How and with what to insulate the attic floor of a residential building The issue of reducing heat loss in a building is very acute. After all, only losses through the attic floor increase operating costs by

How to properly insulate an attic floor

Insulating the attic floor makes it possible to save thermal energy indoors, thereby preventing the cost of heating a cold attic. It’s okay if the attic space is used as a utility room or attic, but what if not? Of course, there is no point in spending money on heating it in this case.

For this reason, it is advisable to cover the attic floor using thermal insulation materials. This can be done both externally and internally. Ideally, insulation should begin at the stage of building a house or, alternatively, right before the finishing of the premises. However, even during your stay, there is no reason not to take care of insulating the ceiling on the attic side.

Note! The thickness of the insulation layer is stated in SNiP. In addition, there you can find all the necessary calculations of the heat transfer resistance of various insulating materials, taking into account the average annual temperature, the material used in construction, and the duration of the heating season.

But before you start directly insulating, you must identify the type of attic floor. In private construction of residential buildings (regardless of whether wood, bricks or blocks are used) it can be of only two types. But both must be built according to certain rules and have a clearly defined design.

Basic requirements for attic floors

The main quality that any attic floor must have is strength. If we are talking about an attic roof, then the entire structure should not sag or deform under the weight of furniture or equipment located in the attic. There is such a thing as deflection norm. For attic structures it is 1/200 of the entire span. The maximum load per square meter is 105 kilograms. One more no less important parameter the ceiling is fire safety, which applies to a greater extent to wooden structures. So, fire resistance has the following limits:

1. for concrete or reinforced concrete structures it is 1 hour;
2. for wooden structures (in the absence additional protection) - five minutes;
3. for wooden flooring on beams, with backfill and plaster - about 45 minutes;
4. for wooden floors with only one plastered surface - 15 minutes.

Features of the overlap device

Often it is beam floors that are found, which is explained by the simplicity and low cost of installation, so we will focus on it. They are often found in wooden buildings, and elements made of both wood and metal can serve as beams. According to experts, option No. 1 is preferable because:

1. wood is cheaper than metal;
2. it has excellent thermal insulation properties;
3. it is easier to process.

Insulation of the attic floor, if there are beams, consists of laying insulating material between them. If the height of the beams is not enough for this, then additional bars are packed on top. Before you begin installation, you should lay vapor barrier layer(just not plastic film, since the vapors that leave the room will not be able to penetrate outside). And if the film is still used, the humidity level in the house will increase noticeably, especially if ventilation system works poorly. For this reason, it is preferable to purchase modern vapor barrier, which can be laid in such a way that air leaves the room, but does not penetrate from the attic into the house. And if such material comes with foil, then it should definitely be laid “face” down.

But how to choose the right insulation so that the resulting “sandwich” is as effective as possible? We will talk about this now.

Types of insulation for the attic

There are quite a lot of such materials, but we will consider only the most popular of them. Here they are:

Let's take a closer look at each of the options.

Application of mineral wool

Mineral wool is effective insulation, the fibers in which are arranged in a special way. Thanks to such chaos, an oxygen “cushion” is formed between the fibers, due to which the material acquires its properties. But because of this same feature, mineral wool or absorbs moisture. To prevent this, installation must be carried out properly.

The advantages of this material are undeniable:

1. density;
2. ease of installation;
3. long service life;
4. fire safety;
5. finally, if the cotton wool is installed horizontally, then it does not slide or cake (read: cold bridges do not appear).

But there is also a drawback that we talked about - it absorbs moisture.

Installation technology

You can lay mineral wool in three possible ways:

The most effective is the first method. The installation technology itself is as follows.

Step 1. First, lay a vapor barrier material - this is necessary to remove the steam that rises from the premises. For proper installation, you must read the markings on the film made by the manufacturer.

Note! Do not forget to observe the mandatory overlap of 10 centimeters.

If thermal insulation is carried out along beams, then the vapor barrier must go around each element that protrudes, otherwise the beams will soon rot.

Step 2. Where the film meets walls and other surfaces that protrude, lift it to the height of the insulating material + 5 centimeters, then wrap it behind the slabs of material or glue it with tape.

Step 3. After this, proceed to laying the insulating material. This procedure is extremely simple, since strips and slabs can be easily cut using a construction knife.

Step 4. When laying, make sure that the insulation is not compressed and there are no gaps left. You can see common mistakes in the image below.

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In the first case, the thickness of the thermal insulation is not enough; in the others, the same parameter for the attic floor is incorrectly selected.

Good tips for insulating with mineral wool

1. Material with foil will increase resistance to heat loss. But the material itself should be laid down with foil.
2. If there are protruding structural elements in the attic, then the insulation should be raised by 40-50 centimeters and fixed.
3. If thin insulation material is laid in two layers, it will be more effective than one thick layer.
4. Do not allow material to protrude beyond the joists. But if this does happen, lengthen it using a rail or beam to the thickness of the material itself.

Step 5. If rafter system is not protected by a waterproofing layer, and the attic space will not be used, then it is necessary to lay waterproofing.

Step 6. All that remains is to make the subfloor. To do this, lay it on insulation - this will be the basis for the final finish.

Use of polystyrene foam

Insulating an attic floor using polystyrene foam is in many ways similar to a similar procedure using expanded polystyrene. Moreover, these materials have common advantages - here they are:

Installation technology

Installing foam plastic for attic insulation is extremely simple - you can easily cope with the procedure on your own. All work is divided into several stages.

Step 1. Level the surface. In order for the thermal insulation to be of the highest quality, there should not be any unevenness on the base. And if you need to eliminate the depressions, then fill everything with a cement screed.

Step 2. Lay the insulation boards - between the beams or end-to-end. What is typical is that if there are beams, the strength of the structure will increase significantly.

Note! All joints (between the beams inclusive) must be carefully sealed. When avoiding obstacles, cut holes as accurately as possible. Finally, the best saver thermal energy exactly a homogeneous layer.

To protect polystyrene foam in a non-residential attic space from destruction, you can use film. But if the attic is used frequently and people move around it, then the foam must be covered with a subfloor - this can be a screed made of cement and sand or OSB boards.

Using sawdust to insulate an attic

For those who don’t know, shredded wood is called sawdust. We are talking about this material now because it also has significant advantages, including:

1. availability;
2. naturalness;
3. light weight;
4. absence of any harmful or toxic substances.

The disadvantage is the same as that of polystyrene foam - flammability.

The procedure for insulation using sawdust

Step 1. First, prepare the sawdust, that is, mix it with water and cement in a ratio of 10-1-1.

Step 2. Fill the attic floor with the resulting mixture, then carefully level it. Note that it is possible to insulate an attic with sawdust without a frame only if it (the attic) is non-residential. Otherwise, the sawdust will be compressed while walking, and the screed will, accordingly, collapse.

Step 3. Using timber, build a cellular structure. Next, fill each cell with the mixture described above. The main advantage of this technology is that a subfloor can be laid on top of the timber, and the room itself can be actively used.

Using expanded clay for insulation

Sufficiently high-quality insulation of the attic floor can be achieved using expanded clay. For those who don’t know, this material is obtained after firing clay. The main advantages of expanded clay include:

1. availability;
2. low thermal conductivity;
3. light weight;
4. environmental friendliness;
5. naturalness.

But there is also a disadvantage, which is the difficulty of raising the material to a height attic space.

Note! Often this material is used when it is necessary to insulate a floor over slabs.

Instructions for insulation with expanded clay

The entire procedure can be divided into the following stages.

Step 1. First, inspect the slabs to see if they have any cracks or crevices. If any are found, seal them with mortar and cover with thick paper. What is characteristic is that even with protruding structural elements there are no difficulties when backfilling.

Step 2. Using timber, build a sheathing. The subfloor will subsequently be laid on top of this grate.

Step 3. Pour the material onto the slab and level it using a rake. The thickness should be approximately 25-30 centimeters. It is typical that you can walk on expanded clay - there are no restrictions in this case.

Note! When filling in expanded clay, try to combine pebbles of different fractions (sizes). This will prevent voids from forming.

At the end, fill everything with a concrete screed or install a subfloor.

Main nuances of the procedure

1. The wood rots, therefore, the steam rising from the house must pass freely. If you install a vapor barrier or use a material that does not “breathe,” the tree may soon collapse.
2. Insulation with foil should be laid with it (foil) down to protect the wood from moisture.

You can see examples of correct and incorrect installation in the image below.

But here is a universal scheme - insulating the attic floor using any of the materials.

As a result, we note that the thermal insulation of the attic floor will be most effective if the attic itself is reliably protected from moisture penetration from the outside. In other words, you also need to properly arrange the roof. Good luck with your work!

Insulation of the attic floor - methods and materials for installation

How to insulate an attic floor, what materials are best used for this

Thermal insulation of the attic floor

Which insulation for the ceiling to choose

Obviously, for wooden floors it is advisable to choose a vapor-permeable, biologically stable and non-flammable insulation. Mineral wool meets these requirements.

How much attic insulation is needed?

According to current standards, it is economically feasible to make the heat transfer resistance of the attic fence no less than 4.7 m2 °C/W for the climate of the Moscow region.

Steam regulation issues

It is necessary to ensure normal ventilation of the insulation, which means that the attic space must be sufficiently well ventilated with outside air. Square ventilation holes(vent) in the attic enclosure should be at least 1:500 of the area of ​​the room itself.

If the attic floor is wooden, then the layer of mineral wool should be protected from the room by a continuous layer of vapor barrier, for which it is better to use modern durable vapor barrier membranes.

What not to do

It is not advisable to use metallized membranes in the attic, as they disrupt (screen) the normal passage electromagnetic waves, which, according to scientists, affects the health of all living things. Typically, membranes based on polypropylene and polyethylene are used.

Technical issues of insulation

A ventilation gap of at least 30 mm must be left between the insulation and the decking, open around the perimeter of the building and (or) through the gaps left in the decking.

Flooring on wooden joists

The most common type of attic floor is with wooden joists. The installation step of the logs is 0.5 - 1.1 meters, while their height is 100 - 200 mm, usually the height is at least 1/20 of the span.

The logs themselves are inserted into the wall to a depth of 12–18 cm, but their direct contact with brick (concrete) is not allowed.

What is being done

After the ceiling lining is done, they begin to insulate the attic floor and build the flooring. Since the height of the floor joists is usually not enough to accommodate the entire insulation layer with a ventilation gap, a counter-lattice is built on beams, on top of which the flooring is laid, usually from fiberboard slabs.

• 1. A counter-lattice is built to the design height with a distance between the beams of 600 mm (so that the insulation boards are placed with spacers, no gaps are allowed).

Reinforced concrete attic floor

A common technology for insulating reinforced concrete attic floors is screed over a layer of rigid insulation. The disadvantage is the significant mass of the screed, which is not always acceptable.

Insulating an attic: the main ways to insulate an attic, types of insulation

Modern Vacation home, no matter whether it is a garden house intended for seasonal living, or a luxurious cottage used as permanent housing, it is impossible to imagine without a ventilated attic.

In this case, one very significant problem arises - heat loss through its ceiling, and then through the roof.

Basic ways to insulate an attic

As already mentioned, when installing a ventilated attic in a country house, its roof remains “cold” (unlike the attic), and only the floors located underneath, separating the underlying living quarters, are insulated.

There are many ways to insulate such floors, depending on their type (reinforced concrete floors or beam floors). Let's look at each of them in detail.

Insulation of reinforced concrete attic floors

It is worth noting that a distinction is made between prefabricated reinforced concrete slabs and monolithic, solid reinforced concrete floor. However, what they have in common is that they have a very smooth surface that can withstand high load. Based on this, you should choose a specific type of insulation for the attic. Let's start with the simplest one.

1. Installation of wooden beams (can be metal) or joists with insulation placed between them. In this case, you can use the most different kinds insulation material: various backfills, mats or rolls of ecowool, mineral wool and even the most common polystyrene foam. Let's take a closer look at the types of attic insulation below.

2. Insulation without the use of logs using backfill. Expanded clay or cocktail slag can be used as backfill (in this case it will need to be isolated from residential premises). Or any other type of backfill.

Insulating the attic with backfill is carried out as follows: a layer of the selected material with a thickness of twenty to thirty centimeters is poured, after which it is filled with cement mortar and a screed is made. If the attic space will not be used in the future, the screed need not be done. For additional protection and vapor barrier, it is also recommended to fix roofing felt on the slabs.

Among the disadvantages of this method, it is worth noting that the work is labor-intensive and requires a lot of time.

3. Insulation with rigid insulation (without lag). Another popular and effective method insulation of a continuous reinforced concrete floor.

In this case, either foam concrete or foam glass is most often used as a heat insulator. Both options have advantages and disadvantages.

Foam glass is a more modern, efficient and easy-to-use material, however, it is also very expensive. For this reason, heavier and coarser foam concrete is still often used. It will take a little longer to tinker with it, in addition, you will need a layer at least forty centimeters thick. But the financial costs will also be much less painful.

But in both cases you will not have to resort to “wet” work, since a screed is not required here.

Insulating the attic using beams

In this case, the insulation material is placed between wood or metal beams. After installation is completed, the ceiling is sheathed with any molded material of your choice, for example, clapboard. Drywall is often also used.

But there are cases when floor beams are made of high-quality and reliable material, have the proper appearance, and are left open. A finishing material floors (tongue and plywood, MDF, and so on) are laid directly over the beams. Most often, this option is used in houses made of cylindrical timber or logs.

As for the type of insulating material, in this case the choice is quite wide. Therefore, let’s move on directly to the consideration of attic insulation and its features.

Types of insulation for the attic

1. Backfills. Most often, either expanded clay or slag (cocktail) is used as backfill. Perlite is also used, but this is a more expensive option. The main disadvantage of such insulation is its high weight, so it requires a very reliable and powerful base and filing.

2. Basalt wool. It comes in the form of rolls or elastic plates. For reliable insulation, one layer of this material twenty centimeters thick is enough. Inexpensive, accessible and relatively more effective for its cost, the material requires, however, vapor barrier (protection from moisture).

3. Glass wool is a cheaper alternative basalt wool. It is most often supplied in the form of slabs. The properties are almost completely similar to basalt wool, except that it is slightly less fire resistant.

4. Foam plastic. Cheapest and available material, which does not require wind protection. Among the disadvantages, it is worth noting the high fragility and insufficient elasticity of the material.

5. Ecowool. This is the most modern, environmentally friendly and easy-to-use material. Made from cellulose. Virtually non-flammable due to special impregnations, hypoallergenic, supplied in bulk form or in the form of slabs. The downside is the highest cost of all the materials presented.

In the end, I would like to note that the most reliable and effective thermal insulation of the attic will only be if the owner also carries out everything necessary measures on its vapor barrier and wind barrier. Otherwise, moisture and wind will very quickly render even the most expensive material unusable.

Insulating an attic: the main ways to insulate an attic, types of insulation

Insulating an attic: the main ways to insulate an attic, types of insulation A modern country house, no matter whether it is a garden house intended for seasonal living, or

Insulating the ceiling of a cold attic

Since the roof of a cold attic only serves as protection from rain, snow and, partially, wind, Special attention It is worth paying attention to thermal insulation of the floor. Insulation of the attic floor is carried out using various heat-insulating materials with mandatory wind protection, especially from the eaves of the roof.

As a rule, insulation is laid directly on the floor of a cold attic. Naturally, provided that the attic will not be used. This will allow you to save on a layer of waterproofing film, as well as on organizing a full floor covering.

How thick should the attic floor insulation be?

The thickness of the thermal insulation layer does not depend on the type of attic floor design wooden beams or reinforced concrete is selected. On the packaging of any insulation, the coefficient of thermal conductivity λ is indicated, and it has two values: λA - for a dry environment, and λB - for a wet environment. The lower this coefficient, the better the insulating properties of the material. It is on the basis of this value that the calculation of the insulation of the attic floor is made.

The thickness of the attic floor insulation is:

where R is the heat transfer resistance coefficient, which, according to standards, is equal to 4.15 m² °C/W.

Insulation of the attic floor using wooden beams

Most small houses and dachas with cold roofs use wooden floors, so it is their thermal insulation that we will consider first.

The installation of an attic floor on wooden beams is usually as follows:

1. Lower floor filing;
2. Vapor barrier;
3. Floor beams;
4. Insulation;
5. Waterproofing;
6. Finishing.

The installation of a ceiling in a private house with a cold attic begins with the installation of load-bearing beams. Since their maximum length is usually 4 meters, for rooms of greater width it is necessary to either construct supports or use metal purlins.

After the beams are laid, a vapor barrier is made for the cold attic floor. To do this, a vapor barrier film is attached to them from below, which protects the insulation from moisture penetration from the lower room. When you insulate a wooden attic floor, it is advisable to use special reinforced multilayer materials made of polyethylene or polypropylene as a film, since they are stronger and much easier to attach.

It is best when the vapor barrier layer is continuous. However, the design of a wooden attic floor does not always allow this. If for some reason the vapor barrier cannot be placed under the beams, the film is laid between them with an overlap on them and fixed with special tape to ensure tightness.

The installation of a wooden attic floor involves the risk of damage to the load-bearing structures due to rotting. Therefore, before laying a cold attic pie, all wooden beams and sheathing should be impregnated with special solutions that prevent rotting and mold formation.

Next, the attic floor is insulated along the beams, for which heat-insulating material is laid between them. If you use loose insulation, then it should be carefully leveled and ensure that it fills all the voids.

The minimum thickness of thermal insulation for insulating an attic wooden floor, calculated by you using the formula above, may be greater than the width of the load-bearing beams. In this case, a sheathing of bars of the size you need is attached across them. Then another layer of insulation is laid between them with the obligatory overlap of the joints of the previous layer.

It is recommended to cover the attic floor beams with a layer of thermal insulation even if their width is sufficient to accommodate the insulation of the calculated thickness. The fact is that so-called cold bridges are formed through them, and therefore heat loss in the house increases.

A wood-beam attic floor is usually constructed with a floor of conventional decking made from treated boards laid across the sheathing or support beams. However, thick plywood, chipboard, MDF and other similar materials can also be used as a finishing coating.

If you want to use a leveling screed as a finishing touch, then waterproofing the cold attic over the insulation layer is mandatory.

Insulation of the attic floor on a reinforced concrete slab

If you need to insulate the attic floor using reinforced concrete slabs, then this can be done in two ways: with or without lathing.

The first method is universal, but is most often used for light types of insulation. The installation of the attic floor of a cold attic in this case will look like this:

1. Vapor barrier of the attic floor is being carried out cold attic, which should cover the entire layer of insulation also from the sides. Since the vapor barrier simply needs to be laid on the floor, it is not necessary to use specialized materials for these purposes - ordinary cheap plastic film will do.
2. On top of the film with the narrow side a wooden block is placed a width equal to half the required thickness that the insulation for a cold attic should have. The distance between the bars is usually taken equal to the width of the roll or slab of the selected brand of insulation.
3. Between the boards Installing insulation for the attic floor. If it is necessary to use several layers of heat-insulating material in thickness, it is laid with overlapping joints of the previous layer.
4. Exactly the same ones are attached across the already laid bars, at a similar distance from each other. A second layer of attic insulation is laid between them.
5. Above vapor-permeable waterproofing of a cold attic is installed, which is secured either with a special adhesive tape or with a thin bar nailed along the sheathing. This stage can be omitted if high-quality waterproofing of a cold roof made of corrugated sheets has already been performed.
6. Across the bars floor boards are nailed or walkways are laid for movement.

Since properly insulating the ceiling under a cold roof is very important to save on heating the house, I recommend using exactly the given transverse diagram for laying thermal insulation. This arrangement of the attic floor minimizes the possibility of a cold bridge forming through the wooden beams, since most of them will be insulated with insulation.

The second method of insulating a cold attic using reinforced concrete slabs without using lathing is suitable in cases where moisture-resistant solid types of insulation that can withstand significant loads without loss of properties are used for thermal insulation.

In this case, the vapor barrier of the attic floor is also installed first. Next, the attic floor slabs are insulated with a layer of thermal insulation of the calculated thickness.

A leveling screed is poured over it. The finished floor is already laid on the screed. If the insulation of a concrete attic floor is carried out with aerated concrete and materials similar in density and properties, then you can do without hydro- and vapor barriers, as well as screeds.

Insulation for attic floors: which one to choose?

Before insulating the attic floor, you need to select a heat-insulating material that is suitable specifically for your case. Unfortunately no universal option, the better to insulate the attic floor. This choice depends on many factors, the most significant of which are:

• Thermal insulating properties of the material;
• Fire safety;
• Price;
• Ease of installation;
• Environmental friendliness;
• Hygroscopicity;
• Strength;
• Resistant to rotting, temperature, acid and alkali.

You must decide which of these factors are most important to you and which can be neglected.

Insulating the ceiling of a cold attic with mineral wool

Mineral wool is one of the most popular materials for floor insulation. The best characteristics for thermally insulating the attic floor of a house are its type based on basalt fibers, which is called stone (basalt) wool.

Insulation based on basalt fibers belongs to the class of non-combustible materials with a melting point above 1000 °C; and has excellent thermal insulation properties. However, it easily absorbs moisture, so when using it, the requirements for hydro- and vapor barrier are especially high.

It is better to insulate the attic floor with mineral wool using rolls, since the joints between the slabs, although not much, do reduce the effectiveness of thermal insulation. It must be laid close to the beams or guides, but avoiding jamming.

Installation of mineral wool is very simple, so this thermal insulation material is most often chosen when they want to insulate an attic floor with their own hands without the involvement of specialists. While working, do not forget to use the tools personal protection: dense latex gloves, glasses and clothing covering the entire body. For people prone to allergies, this kit must be supplemented with a respirator.

• Fire safety;
• Environmental friendliness;
• Ease of use;
• Relatively low price.

• Tendency to form compactions, good crushability;
• Hygroscopicity.

Insulating the attic floor with foam plastic

Polystyrene foam - very inexpensive material, which, in fact, is expanded polystyrene foam and, due to these “bubbles” with air, retains heat. It is cheap, has good heat-insulating properties, is moisture resistant and can withstand fairly large compressive loads.

However, all its advantages are more than offset by one drawback - this material is fire hazardous. Already at a temperature of 80 °C; foam melts releasing a huge amount of harmful substances, and at temperatures from 210 °C; a fire occurs. Therefore, insulating the attic floor over wooden beams with polystyrene foam is not a good idea. However, it can be used between non-combustible materials, for example, when laid as insulation on a concrete slab with screed poured.

• High thermal insulation properties;
• Low price;
• Moisture resistant;
• Resistant to rot;

• Fragility;
• Very flammable;
• Deforms already at a temperature of 60 °C;
• It is an excellent refuge for mice.

Insulation of attic floors with extruded polystyrene foam

Extruded (extruded) polystyrene foam is made from the same material as polystyrene foam, but using a fundamentally different technology. In the CIS, the most common insulation materials of this type are from the Penoplex company. Performance properties extruded polystyrene foam is much better than that of polystyrene foam, especially with regard to the ignition temperature of the material.

However, insulating a wooden attic floor with penoplex is still not recommended. Despite the fact that open combustion of this heat-insulating material occurs at a fairly high temperature, it is still a fire hazard. Firstly, extruded polystyrene foam supports combustion, and secondly, it releases very caustic and toxic substances when heated to even very low temperatures, and they are the cause of death in a fire in most cases. Therefore, penoplex is far from a better option than insulating the attic floor of a house, even if it is reinforced concrete.

• High thermal insulation properties;
• Moisture resistant;
• Resistant to rot;
• High density;
• Withstands quite heavy loads;
• Light weight.

• When heated above 80 °C; begins to release toxic substances;
• Fire hazardous;
• Deforms when heated.

Insulating the attic floor of a house using polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam slabs are one of the best existing insulation materials. This material has excellent thermal insulation properties, it is durable, resistant to chemical and bacteriological influences, non-hygroscopic and fireproof.

Polyurethane foam is the best way to insulate an attic floor in a private home. If you can afford it. The high cost is its main and probably only drawback. Because of this, it may even be difficult to purchase this material in small towns.

• The best thermal insulation properties among the materials considered;
• Fireproof;
• Not affected by moisture and chemicals;
• Does not rot;
• Eco-friendly;
• Convenient to use.

Insulating the ceiling of a cold attic with sawdust

Previously, in the absence of other materials, insulation cold roof sawdust was a ubiquitous phenomenon. Now this method of thermal insulation is used by those who like its environmental friendliness. At the same time, despite popular belief, the design of an attic floor using such insulation is by no means cheap. Sawdust is not laid “dry”, but in a special solution, the production of which requires money and a lot of time.

The composition of a sawdust solution for insulating a cold attic is as follows:

• 10 buckets of sawdust(we need wood sawdust, which is formed during sawing and processing of wood; furniture sawdust is too small for these purposes);
• 1 bucket of hydrated lime(fluffs);
• 1 bucket of cement;
• 5-10 buckets of water with antiseptic, for example, with boric acid, soap or copper sulfate(pour gradually using a watering can, the final amount depends on the size of the sawdust).

The resulting mixture is placed on the base between the beams and compacted. The thickness of the layer of such insulation for the attic floor should be at least 300 mm, but it is better to do more, since the thermal insulation properties of sawdust mortar can vary greatly. Walkways for movement are laid on top of such insulation to cover the attic, which can be used as chipboard sheets or thick plywood.

• Comparatively cheap;
• Environmental friendliness;
• Good thermal insulation properties.

• Labor-intensive self-production;
• The thickness of the attic floor is large;
• Difficult installation;
• Differences in thermal insulation properties depending on the composition.

Insulation of attic floors with expanded clay

Another one regarding cheap material, which can be used to insulate the attic floor in a private house - this is expanded clay. It is made by firing clay and is one of the most environmentally friendly building materials. In addition, expanded clay has good thermal insulation properties, is fireproof, durable and inert to acids and alkalis.

Using expanded clay you can insulate both reinforced concrete and wooden floor attic. However, in the latter case, you need to carefully consider the calculation of the load-bearing capacity of the beams, since expanded clay insulation weighs much more than modern insulation materials. Concrete attic floor slabs can easily withstand very heavy loads, so expanded clay can be used for them without additional calculations.

If the wooden attic floor of a house is being insulated, then the sheathing is first made over the beams and only after that the heat insulator is filled in. Expanded clay is poured in a layer of 250-300 mm and carefully leveled. It is then covered with a floor made of planks.

If you are insulating attic floors made of concrete, then waterproof the floor with self-leveling or coating materials, then expanded clay is mixed with cement and poured with a layer of 350-400 mm.

• Environmentally friendly material;
• Good thermal insulation properties;
• Fireproof;
• Resistant to acids and alkalis;
• Not subject to rotting;
• Durable;
• Low cost.

Insulation of attic floors made of wood or reinforced concrete slabs

Insulating the attic floor: tips, diagrams, materials. Detailed step-by-step instructions on how to insulate an attic floor using both wooden beams and a reinforced concrete slab

Ceiling in heat exchange with environment takes the same part as the rest of the enclosing structures of the building or premises. Therefore, thermal insulation of ceilings is no less important than insulation of walls and floors, especially in stone houses - warm air rises upward and gives off heat to the concrete floor, the high density and low thermal insulation qualities of which contribute to the further transit of thermal energy outward - heat loss.

Wood is a material with high thermal insulation characteristics, so insulation is a problem wooden ceilings It is not so acute - more often it is performed for the purpose of soundproofing the bases. And concrete is used much more widely in mass housing construction, so let’s take a closer look at how to insulate a concrete ceiling in an apartment or private house.

In a multi-story building, the ceiling is the floor of the apartment above or the technical floor, and in a one-story building it is the floor of the attic. Since it is much easier technically to insulate a concrete ceiling from the outside, during the construction and finishing of apartments in multi-storey buildings this is achieved by thermal insulation of the floors. However, the degree of effectiveness of this operation does not always suit homeowners, and only residents can reconstruct the insulating layer from the outside top floors– the rest to the existing external thermal protection of the ceiling base, if necessary, carry out additional insulation concrete ceiling from the inside.

There are many technologies for performing this operation; they differ in the design of the insulating shell and the materials used for the thermal insulation, right choice the combination of which determines the effectiveness of insulation.

The two main schemes for thermal insulation of the ceiling from the inside are frame and frameless structures. The choice of scheme depends on the type of insulation, ceiling height and planned functionality of the mounted shell.

The frameless design allows you to equip the ceiling not only with thermal protection, but also, without losing height, with waterproofing. The condition for the success of this scheme is the use of rigid heat-insulating materials, firmly mounted on the ceiling, followed by finishing.

The frame structure has large strength characteristics and therefore is used for the device comprehensive protection ceiling base - a multilayer shell with heat, hydro, sound and vapor barrier functions. In addition, the frame allows you to lay not only solid, but also fibrous thermal insulation materials on the ceiling. But this technology will reduce the height of the ceilings by at least 7 cm, and this is the installation of not a multi-layer, but a single- or dual-functional shell.

Materials for thermal insulation of concrete floor slabs

Thermal insulation materials ceiling application In addition to performing the main function - thermal protection, they must also have the following characteristics:

• low specific gravity;
• environmental friendliness – absence of emissions harmful to humans;
• resistance to fungus formation;
• sufficient heat resistance;
• moisture resistance – neutral to contact with water and steam.

Based on their physical condition, insulation materials installed on ceilings are divided into the following groups:

• hard (including decorative polystyrene tiles);
• fibrous;
• sprayed.

Currently, there are many varieties of thermal insulation materials of organic and inorganic origin used to insulate the bases of enclosing structures - from well-known and widely used (foam plastic) to exotic (coconut fiber), and their list is constantly updated with new developments.

Due to the individuality of some characteristics, not all insulation materials are suitable for use in housing. For example, slabs made of pressed straw and reeds (straw and reeds) will not be of interest to any owner of an apartment or private house, despite the high thermal insulation characteristics, affordability and widespread use in the finishing of agricultural buildings.

As an opposite example, we can cite insulation made from coconut fibers or natural cork - expensive materials, despite low demand due to the presence of many other types of thermal insulation on the market.

As a rule, the more exotic the material, the higher its price, even if the characteristics of the insulation are not outstanding, and the technology and tools required for installation are traditional. Therefore, they prefer to install expensive thermal insulation by professionals in order to minimize the risk of damage and insulation consumption.

Let's consider how you can insulate a reinforced concrete ceiling yourself, without going far beyond budget technologies.

Methods for insulating concrete ceilings from the inside

Let's consider several ways to insulate a reinforced concrete ceiling from the inside, starting with the simplest in execution, but allowing for finishing on top of the insulation.

Frameless thermal insulation of concrete ceiling with foam plastic

For thermal protection of the ceiling base, any rigid type of foam is suitable - polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, polyvinyl chloride.

Important! Due to their hygroscopicity, elastic types of foam plastic (foam rubber) are not used as base insulation.

Since each variety also has subspecies, indicated by markings, you should choose a material with a minimum thermal conductivity value. In addition, it should be taken into account that foam plastics have a closed cellular structure that does not contribute to sound absorption, which makes them not the best materials for simultaneous sound insulation.

Preparing the base

All bulges are cut off from the concrete ceiling, after which the sinks and cracks are primed and, after drying, sealed with a cement leveling mixture. On at this stage It is possible to waterproof the ceiling using coating insulating agents or deep penetration compounds, which will reduce the consequences of flooding the apartment from leakage from above.

Depending on the choice of waterproofing mixture (bitumen, polymer-based), the ceiling base is prepared, primed, and waterproofing is performed.

After the waterproofing on the ceiling has dried, taking into account the format of the selected material, mark the layout of the foam sheets so that the insulation shell does not include small fragments or narrow strips.

Temporary fixation and reinforcement of expanded polystyrene sheets

According to the completed markings, foam plastic sheets are fixed to the ceiling end-to-end with each other and with the walls, using for this:

• silicone sealant, if the waterproofing is made with a bitumen-based composition;
• PVA glue of a paste-like consistency, if the waterproofing is a penetrating polymer material.

The glue is applied in a thick layer to 5 points of each sheet of insulation - in the corners and in the center, after which the foam is pressed in place to the base. Having finished laying the entire ceiling, the glue is allowed to dry for a day.

After the adhesive has dried, a reinforcing mesh made of fiberglass is laid on top of the foam, which is sold in rolls 1 m wide. The mesh is laid on a thin layer of PVA glue with longitudinal overlap of the strips on each other and down on the walls 5 cm in size, avoiding bubbles and sagging.

Basic fastening of thermal insulation to a concrete ceiling

Laying foam plastic on the ceiling with glue is just a temporary fixation, which allows you to adjust the fragments in place during the assembly process to create a continuous shell. The final fastening of the heat-insulating layer to the ceiling is done with plastic mushroom snipes and wedging anchor rods.

Markings are made on the sheets for fastening - in the corners and in the center, after which, following the markings, small scissors are used to cut out spots with a diameter of approximately 1 cm in the reinforcing mesh to allow drilling of concrete through the foam without the danger of winding the mesh around the drill.

Holes in the concrete are drilled of such a diameter that the fungus can freely enter it without a large gap. In each sheet, first, a hole is drilled in the center, a fungus is installed in it, sinking the cap flush into the foam, and wedged with an anchor, after which the fragment is drilled and fastened in the corners. If for some reason the drill did not penetrate the concrete at the design location (it rested against the slab reinforcement), then drilling should be done nearby, stepping back a few centimeters.

As a result of installing thermal insulation sheets using this technology, a flat surface is obtained that does not require a vapor barrier and is sufficiently reinforced for finishing the ceiling - leveling with mixtures based on cement and gypsum, followed by painting or pasting with ceiling wallpaper.

Use of fiber insulation in frameless construction

Instead of polystyrene foam in the same design, you can use stone wool, but the labor intensity of the operation, if you also perform a vapor barrier, in this case will be much higher, since it is difficult to temporarily fix the fibrous insulation on the concrete before final fixation.

Therefore, the sheet is applied to the ceiling, a steel scriber is used to make a drilling mark through it at the base, after which the insulation is removed and the holes are drilled. Then the sheet is reinstalled in place, a plastic mushroom is inserted through it into the hole, but the anchor is only attached without hammering. This is done with all sheets of insulation.

Then, taking out one fungus at a time, a vapor barrier is laid on the cotton wool - polyethylene is applied to the thermal insulation and the removed fungus is passed through it again into the hole, after which the anchor is driven in. As a result, the fungus cap presses two layers to the ceiling - cotton wool and polyethylene.

Important! The longitudinal rows of fungi on the concrete should be positioned evenly - slats are subsequently attached to their caps with self-tapping screws for the transverse installation of siding or strip plastic decorative tiles on them.

Frame thermal insulation of concrete ceiling with mineral wool

This method of performing thermal protection is more complicated and more expensive to implement, since the costs of the insulation are added to the costs of the frame and vapor barrier. In addition, the height of the ceilings should allow the frame to be mounted painlessly for the functionality of the room. But still frame method Thermal insulation of ceilings is also widespread.

For example, if the thermal insulation of the concrete floor of the second floor in a private house is insufficiently effective, it is necessary to insulate the concrete ceiling on the first floor. At the same time, the ceiling height of most private houses allows the installation of a multifunctional shell without visible damage to the dimensions of the room.

Preparing the base for installation of the frame

In this case, the requirements for the evenness of the base are not high - the frame mounted in a horizontal plane neutralizes all unevenness. But it is still necessary to repair the concrete base - some frame elements will be attached to it. In addition, if the floor above has water supply and plumbing fixtures, you should not neglect the opportunity to waterproof the ceiling along the way.

All peeled and worn coatings are removed from the ceiling, cracks and joints with walls are cleaned of old fillers, filled in, after which the surface is primed with an aqueous solution of latex in a ratio of 1:4. After the primer has dried, the cracks are sealed with polyurethane foam or other sealing agent, and the surface is roughly leveled with a cement-based mixture - the potholes are filled with mortar and the potholes are rubbed.

After the mixture has cured and dried, the ceiling is waterproofed with a bitumen-based composition or a penetrating waterproofing agent.

Frame installation

When used as insulation mineral or stone wool it is necessary to install a vapor barrier on the side of the room. A thick polyethylene film is quite suitable for this purpose, which needs to be mounted on the frame after thermal insulation.

As a material for the frame, if the outer shell is plasterboard, you can use ud- and cd-steel profiles. If siding or strip plastic trim is intended to be laid as a finishing material, then it is better to use wooden blocks treated with an antiseptic, for example, Antizhuk, and coated with liquid nitro varnish.

Using a laser level or a transparent hose with water under the ceiling along the perimeter of the walls, mark the starting line - the outline of the future frame should lie on this line. The distance from the starting line to the ceiling should be equal to the thickness of the mineral wool insulation.

Important! If it is planned to obtain an additional effect from the thermal insulation device in the form of noise protection, then the thickness of the insulation should be at least 50 mm.

Installation of the frame begins with fastening the bars along the starting line - with self-tapping screws into plastic holes installed in holes drilled in the wall. Then the intermediate elements of the frame are mounted, taking into account the format of the insulation, so that the joints of the sheets do not fall on the bars.

Laying thermal insulation

Sheets of cotton wool cover the surface of the ceiling, placing them between the frame and the base.

Having filled the ceiling area with insulation, another layer of vapor barrier is also laid under the frame - plastic film. Strips of polyethylene are laid overlapping each other with a width of 10 cm and secured along the seams with wide tape. Vapor barrier is necessary to protect the insulation from condensation drops, since after getting wet, cotton wool loses its heat and sound insulating properties.

Important! Work on laying mineral wool insulation must be carried out in protective clothing and a respirator - the smallest particles of fibers are dangerous for the respiratory system and cause an allergic reaction of the skin.

At this stage, the ceiling will consist of an insulated and vapor-insulated base, on top of which there is a frame made of steel profiles or wooden blocks.

Drywall is mounted on the profiles using self-tapping screws, sealing the seams and subsequent finishing. Siding or decorative strips are attached to wooden blocks with small nails. plastic tiles. Between the layer of polyethylene and the finishing coating there remains a ventilation gap as thick as the cross-section of the bar or profile, which is necessary for the evaporation of condensate.

Thermal insulation of a concrete ceiling with polystyrene foam tiles

Polystyrene ceiling tiles are produced in the form of square sheets with a side length of 40, 50, 60 cm or rectangular panels in the format 60x30, 70x30, 70x40 cm. The thickness of such tiles does not exceed 1 cm and depends on the type of polystyrene foam - the finish from the extruded material can be thick only 5 mm. In terms of design, ceiling tiles can be smooth and embossed, regular white and colored laminated, solid and perforated, suture and seamless.

Tile white allows you to paint in any color, but the composition of the paint and varnish coating should not be aggressive - all water-dispersion compositions are excellent. The specific gravity of polystyrene tiles is very small and, depending on the type, is 20-30 kg/m3, which indicates that there are no high requirements for the load-bearing capacity of the base being finished.

The use of this material allows you to achieve two goals: thermal insulation of the ceiling and its decorative design. At the same time, the requirements for the evenness of the tiled ceiling are not too strict - differences in height are allowed up to 2-5 mm, depending on the adhesive composition used.

Important! If the material is designed for seam laying, that is, there is rust along the perimeter of the products, or each element contains a completed pattern, then deviations in the size of the tiles are not allowed, as this will lead to a distortion of the artistic structure of the coating.

Preparing the ceiling base for insulation with tiles

To avoid destruction of the polystyrene ceiling finish along with peeling plaster, worn materials that have lost adhesion to concrete are removed from the base, bulges are cut off and the joints between the floor slabs are cleaned. Then the ceiling is primed with a latex-based composition, and after the primer has dried, seams, cracks and potholes are sealed, followed by leveling the surface with a cement-based composition. After the leveling layer has dried, if necessary, waterproof the ceiling using the coating method.

If a bitumen composition is used for waterproofing, then after it dries the ceiling is ready for finishing with polystyrene tiles. When using penetrating compounds containing polymers, the dried mixture is lightly treated with sandpaper to remove lumps from the surface, after which it is primed again with an aqueous solution of latex in a ratio of 1:3.

On top of the dried waterproofing, markings are made for the upcoming tile laying, taking into account its format and the location of lamps or chandeliers on the ceiling.

When arranging the cladding elements, you should choose an option that eliminates the formation of gaps between the wall and the ceiling, which cannot subsequently be hidden under a decorative ceiling plinth.

Laying decorative polystyrene foam insulation

The tiles are applied depending on the base material or waterproofing shell.

To install decorative insulation over a bitumen mixture, you can successfully use silicone sealants, applying them to 5 points on the back surface of the tile - in the corners and in the center. If the finishing material is made of extruded polystyrene, that is, more dense, silicone is applied in strips along the perimeter and diagonals.

On a ceiling lined with cement or gypsum mixture, tiles can be glued using the following compounds:

• polymer-based adhesives – “Titan”, “Master”;
• "liquid Nails";
• PVA is the better pasty variety;
• solution finishing putty convenient consistency.

Polymer adhesives are designed for surfaces with differences of no more than 2 mm. Other compositions can also be used for more significant base defects.

Ready-made adhesives are used in accordance with the instructions, the finishing putty solution is used after a trial installation of several tiles, which will show whether correction of the consistency of the mixture is necessary, and what defects in the ceiling can be hidden.

After the compositions have dried, the tile joints are cosmetically sealed and, if necessary, the polystyrene foam cladding is painted.

A ceiling insulated in this way will reduce heat loss in the room and effectively protect the base from the formation of condensation.

Conclusion

The listed methods of insulating a concrete ceiling are only a small part of the technologies used. Homeowners who have already completed this operation and therefore know the advantages and disadvantages of the technology used and the materials used will tell you how to insulate a concrete ceiling in your region most effectively. After analyzing several such reviews, you can choose the best option for yourself or develop an individual method taking into account the omissions of consultants.

The main point of the article

1. If the thermal insulation of the floor of the upper floor is insufficient, insulation of the concrete ceiling is not a whim, but a necessity.
2. Effective thermal insulation can be achieved without the use of expensive materials.
3. The choice of material and technology should be tied to the characteristics of the ceiling base.
4. Building a multifunctional insulating shell yourself is possible.
5. Combining thermal insulation with decorative finishing is rational.