Room lily- beautiful delicate flower... The lily has long been considered a symbol of excellence and chastity. In painting, the image of this flower was very common, especially during the Renaissance. For example, in some of the canvases, Madonna is depicted with a white lily in her arms. A brief excursion into the story is over. We turn directly to how to properly care for a lily.
Land for home lilies.
The earth must have the following components:
- Peat,
- Sand,
- Humus,
- Bone flour,
It is best if the soil is loose. You can buy it ready-made in a flower shop.
Watering indoor lilies.
Never water the lily ice water and tap water. It is better if it is a little warm and settled for a day. Watering is necessary often so that the soil does not dry out. During the period of flowers dying, watering should be slightly reduced.
Where to put your home lily.
The lily room should be cool and ventilated, but free from cold drafts. With the arrival of warmth, the indoor lily will feel great on the balcony. The main thing is to avoid the scorching sun.
Planting lily bulbs.
No big pot needed. It should be 15-20 cm in diameter. It is necessary to pour drainage on the bottom, about 2-3 cm. Next, pour some earth on top (from 3 to 5 cm). Then place the onion and gently spread the roots. Fill in the soil, about halfway down the onion, so that eventually the soil reaches half the pot.
Transplanting a room lily.
A lily transplant is highly undesirable. If the lilies have grown baby bulbs, they must be planted.
Top dressing of home lilies.
Feeding is needed 2-3 times a year. It should be fed with liquid fertilizer together with watering. Protect the leaves from getting fertilizer on them.
Reproduction of lilies.
When your lily turns 4-5 years old, “babies” form in the main bulb. They will already have their roots. They must be carefully separated from the main bulb, without damaging the roots, and planted in another small pot.
When indoor lilies bloom.
Lilies rarely bloom in the first year of their life. If they bloom, then it is "not splendid". From the second to the fourth year, the lily comes to its bloom (blooms magnificently and profusely). By the fifth year, the rapid flowering subsides. This is a signal that it is time to put the "kids" away.
Storage of lily bulbs.
In early spring, purchased bulbs are stored in the refrigerator, in an air-letting container filled with sawdust. They cannot be stored in the refrigerator for more than 2 months.
We hope our tips will help you care for your indoor lilies. And for a long time they will delight yours with their flowering.
The purchase of planting material is a very important matter - the success of growing lilies depends on timeliness. Before buying bulbs, or ordering through an online store, you need to find out which group of hybrids the selected flower belongs to, perhaps it is even a species lily, there is special care for them.
If you are offered lily bulbs of unknown origin, it is better to refuse to buy - you can simply be mistaken with the choice of location, planting depth and further agricultural technology, but even worse if the lily is not suitable for your region in terms of frost resistance.
For example, varieties of LA hybrids or Oriental lilies(Orientals) require shelter if the winters are harsh, and American hybrids are generally very thermophilic and can only be grown in southern regions or containers (winter in the basement).
For residents middle lane In Russia, the Urals and Siberia, it is important to know the flowering time when buying lilies, as in Eastern hybrids the flowering period is greatly extended, some varieties bloom earlier, others later, but late-flowering lilies may not have time to ripen by winter (to store nutrients), they will be exhausted by spring and perish.
If you have the opportunity to examine and touch the bulbs, choose those that are dense, hard, without spots of rotten scales, especially mold, always with living roots at least 5 cm long, and the bulbs of hybrids of snow-white lilies are viable only if they have good long roots ... You should be wary if the bulbs are very dry - a good gardener will not allow this, soaking in water or wrapping in a damp cloth may not help, do not take risks.
Problems with buying lilies arise for flower growers in the event that you buy imported bulbs from Holland out of season. The fact is that in the fall, imported bulbs go on sale only from last year's unsold stocks. In October-November, the Dutch only begin to harvest the bulbs for sale: they dig up, wash, dry, put them in cold storage facilities, and they come to Russia only from the middle of winter.
Our domestic gardeners, on the contrary, only dig up in the fall planting material... Therefore, in the fall, you need to buy bulbs from friends in the garden, through clubs and forums of lily lovers, and at the end of winter and spring - lilies from Europe. However, it is very important to buy dormant bulbs. Sometimes the desire to buy a beautiful variety is so great that gardeners, without hesitation, buy bulbs with sprouts, while others are ready to sell lilies immediately after flowering! It is a very common occurrence when on the market you are offered a dug out lily, with a flower that has not yet wilted, to prove the authenticity of the variety. You are offered to cut off the peduncle, and plant the bulb immediately.
If you experienced florist, then, most likely, you understand how risky it is to buy lilies with sprouts, and even more so, dug out during flowering. The recommendation to break off the sprouts and simply plant them in the ground is especially frightening. It is enormous stress for a plant to survive after a broken growth, to rebuild its biological rhythms from vegetation to suspended animation. Lilies that are not strong after flowering recover and take root for a very long time when they are dug up, very often they die! Survivors bloom poorly, slowly grow bulbs.
Planting lilies
We have already written about this stage of growing - read:.
Let us repeat more briefly:
If you bought your bulbs in late winter or very early spring, before planting in open ground they need to be stored in the refrigerator, in the vegetable compartment, or where the temperature is between 0 and + 4 ° С, not higher, the longer the storage is supposed to be, the closer the temperature should approach zero - optimally 0 + 1 ° С. The bulbs should be placed in moist sphagnum moss and plastic bag with holes.
Important: ethylene gas is emitted by almost all fruits and vegetables, and it has a detrimental effect on lily bulbs, so it is necessary to isolate them from fruits and vegetables. Moreover, it is the fruit, not the lily, that needs to be sealed tightly into the bag.
You can keep the lily bulbs in the refrigerator until the sprout reaches 5-6 cm.If the sprout has formed ahead of time, and it is too early to plant it in the open ground, do not wait until the bulbs are depleted in the absence of ultraviolet radiation on chlorous sprouts - plant them in containers and put on glazed balcony, in a plastic greenhouse until frost has passed. Then simply transfer (keeping all the contents of the pot) into the prepared holes in the flower beds.
If you missed the moment when sprouts began to appear on the stored bulbs, and they grew too large, then when planting, place the bulb in the hole at an angle.
If you bought lily bulbs in the fall, plant them immediately, or at most they can wait 3-4 days wrapped in moist moss. If you are planting your own lilies, then there are two important factors to consider:
- It is possible to divide and transplant lilies only 1.5 months after the end of flowering, this time is needed for the bulbs to gain weight, store nutrients, they will grow up, they look strong and elastic.
- It is better to divide and plant lilies when the mother bush reaches four and five years of age. By this time, it will have grown enough so that the daughter bulbs can easily separate by themselves.
Tubular and other large-sized lilies can be planted less often - once every 6-7 years. Earlier transplantation of lilies may be associated with the defeat of the flower garden with gray rot, the attack of mice that gnaw the entire flower bed, or when the thrips caused serious harm (gnawed on the bulbs), infected with a virus.
Before planting, the bulbs must be soaked in the fungicide-dressing agent Maxim. If a Lily (lily) red beetle was seen on your site, it is better to additionally process the bulbs in the Prestige or Prestigerator preparation - it is designed to process potatoes from colorado potato beetle, but do an excellent job with the lily beetle. Treatment is especially helpful when planting lilies in spring, since the maximum effect of the drug is observed in the first month (the bulbs will sleep in the fall), but the fully active substance of these insecticides decomposes for more than a year.
We plant lily bulbs in prepared soil to a depth three times the size of the bulbs (excluding Candidium hybrids and unripe children - lightly sprinkle them with earth).
After planting, make a small side around the hole, as trunk circle so that water after irrigation does not spread into the aisles. Now they need to be watered, especially if the soil is dry.
How to care for lilies
Lilies, like all plants, for growth and flowering need light, warmth, regular moisture, protection from diseases and pests, feeding, mulching, a garter to supports for tall varieties.
We take into account the need for sunlight when choosing a location.
Many species of lilies available for sale: Lilium leichtlinii, Lilium speciosum, Tiger lily (Lilium tigrinum), and Oriental hybrids (Oriental) and Tiger hybrids prefer very light partial shade or bright places where there is sun at least 4-6 hours in the morning or evening.
Asiatic lilies and LA hybrids prefer sunny areas, but grow normally in light partial shade.
LO hybrids, Tubular lilies, OT hybrids prefer full sun. But even they sometimes need shading in the summer on especially hot days. You can organize it by pulling mosquito net or by installing a beach umbrella next to the landings.
Lilies more than 50 cm in height must be tied to a support so that they are not broken by the wind.
Mulching
After planting lilies, the soil must be mulched - with straw, peat, coniferous or leaf litter, coniferous sawdust. Of all types of mulch, the best is forest floor. If you have enough acidic soils, use leaf litter (from under birches, aspens, lindens), if it is close to neutral - you can use coniferous, from under the pines. But the needles strongly acidify the soil and are not suitable for mulching Tubular hybrids, Lily regale and others who need a slightly alkaline soil.
By the way, OT-hybrids that form supra-luminal roots are especially in need of mulching. As soon as they begin to appear above the surface, add earth.
Mulching is necessary so that the soil does not dry out quickly, the surface roots do not overheat in the heat and do not freeze in winter. In addition, the mulch gradually decomposes and creates a new humus layer. Mulching also allows you not to loosen the aisles - the soil does not compact with mulch, it remains porous.
If you have the opportunity to get horse bedding - sawdust mixed with horse manure, then you can use such mulch only after six months - so that the composition has time to overheat and decompose.
If you are growing lilies surrounded by soil-backing or undersized plants, mulching is not necessary. The variegated bulbous ryegrass looks very good next to lilies - its variegated leaves are an excellent framing of lilies and protection of the soil. By the way, tall lilies look great and grow surrounded by lower daylilies.
How to water lilies
Lilies prefer a moderately moist soil at all times. So they grow in nature - in the undergrowth, where a large layer of fallen leaves protects the soil from drying out, but does not create excessive moisture - the soil is very porous. Lilies do not tolerate excess moisture - for them stagnation of water in the roots is destructive.
Therefore, watering is carried out as needed - in the absence of rain, about once a week, while water must be poured at the root in the aisles. The best time for watering: in the morning or before 14-15 o'clock in the afternoon - the earth should have time to dry out from above by night.
Experienced gardeners advise to be especially careful with watering in the spring, when recurrent frosts or sudden cold snaps are possible at night. In such cases, many people use watering in conjunction with growth regulators and anti-stress drugs - Epin, Zircon, Previscour Energy. This is especially necessary during the budding period.
The greatest need for soil moisture arises in June, when the temperatures are leveled during the day and at night, it is very hot during the day, and also after flowering, when the formation of lily bulbs begins and the accumulation of nutrients before the dormant period.
However, waterlogging of the soil for lilies is detrimental, especially when the plantings are dense, if the lilies are planted in a flower garden next to plants that need to be watered and fed frequently (for example, with roses), diseases develop from constant moisture. Most often it is gray rot and botrytis - fungal disease, typical for bulbous (the lower leaves are covered with small spots, turn brown, dry out, flowering is weak, the disease goes from bottom to top).
The frequency of watering also depends on the type of soil - on light sandy loam soils it is necessary to water more often, on loams (even taking into account their improvement, the introduction of sand and peat) - less often.
After flowering, you must completely stop watering the lilies. An exception is the abnormally hot weather in the fall, when the ground dries up to dust, you can water it 1-2 times after flowering, until the foliage has finally turned yellow.
Feeding lilies
The first thing to remember is that lilies do not tolerate any organic matter! It is possible to add humus to poor soil to improve its composition before planting (laying a flower garden), but it must be well-rotted compost - that is, if you bought a machine of fresh manure, you can use it for flowers no earlier than four years later.
By the way, lilies do not like green fertilizer either - freshly cut foliage and weeds, which with love and gratitude accept vegetables - tomatoes, cucumbers as a top dressing.
Lilies from all organic matter allow for well-rotted leaf litter.
In total, it is enough to feed these flowers three times per season:
- in the spring, you can use calcium nitrate, twice with an interval of 2 weeks (6 g per 1 liter of water)
- during budding and flowering - complete mineral fertilizer, for example, Fertika deluxe, Fertika Universal, or feed with potassium magnesium (1.5 tablespoons per 10 l), feeding every 2 weeks
- after flowering - phosphoric and potash fertilizers once
In autumn, plants cannot be transplanted and fed at the same time.
Combine all root dressing with watering, do not apply fertilizer on dry ground, only with big amount water.
In addition to root dressing, lilies sometimes need leaf dressing, if chlorosis appears on young leaves, perhaps there is not enough iron, then you need to spray it with iron chelate (just not on a sunny day). Iron deficiency manifests itself on soils with an alkaline and neutral reaction, therefore, lilies suffer primarily, which are grown on such OT hybrids, Tubular lilies, Candidum hybrids. Iron is well absorbed at pH 6 and below.
But in addition to iron, boron and zinc may be lacking on neutral and alkaline soils, so these minerals can also be used for foliar dressing, boron is especially useful, as for vegetables, it is diluted at the rate of 5 g per 5 l of water, for spraying during budding. To compensate for the lack of zinc, add 2.5 g of zinc sulfate per 5 liters of water to the solution.
If your soils are slightly acidic, then chlorosis can cause not an iron deficiency, but a deficiency of molybdenum, use a complex fertilizer that contains this element.
Cut lilies
Sometimes, when gardeners cannot be in the garden often, they tend to cut flowering lilies to take home this beauty in a bouquet. But you need to cut the lilies correctly:
- Do not cut the flower stalk too low, leave as much of it in the flower bed as possible, otherwise the bulbs will not ripen normally.
- Powder the place of the cut near the stem remaining in the flower bed wood ash, then drip a drop of medical glue to prevent the wound from rotting.
Lilies after flowering
When the lilies fade, remove the withering flowers to prevent the formation of seed pods, the stem itself does not need to be cut!
In autumn, when all the leaves turn yellow, you need to cut off the stems at a height of 10-15 cm from the ground and leave them that way until spring. In the spring they just need to be pulled out of the ground (they practically fall out on their own).
Shelter for the winter
After autumn transplant lilies or after the final pruning, the beds need to be insulated if winters in your area are harsh.
Usually the shelter is multi-layered: scoop up leaf litter, for example, from under apple and pear trees, cover with spruce branches or peat. Can be stacked on top plastic wrap and press with stones.
Especially in need of shelter for the winter Oriental hybrids(Oriental), in the north-western regions of Russia it is worth covering them not with foliage, but with a layer of peat of at least 10 cm, then spruce branches.
In the spring, you need to remove the film and spruce branches, and leave the peat or mulch, but it’s nice to water it with special preparations to increase fertility, for example, Baikal-EM1.
It is important to remove the shelters in a timely manner, before the lilies start to grow, so as not to damage the sprouts or so that the young growth does not dry out.
Who said that lilies can only be grown in the garden? Large bushes such as the Regale variety will look spectacular in large pots, and the exquisite Henson lilies will fit perfectly in medium-sized pots. By providing good conditions maintenance and decent care for the lily at home, you can get the same abundant and long-lasting flowering as in the garden.
Features of caring for a lily at home
Amaryllis and hippeastrum are often called "indoor lilies", although they belong to different families and are similar only in the shape of the flower and the presence of the bulb. Lily, like all bulbous plants, needs special care, because improper watering or non-compliance temperature regime in the summer and winter time can lead to the death of the flower.
Lighting
Lily will feel comfortable in rooms with windows facing south-east or south-west. It is good if the tub with the plant will not stand on the windowsill, but on a stand near the window - the flower is preferred by slightly diffused sunlight.
Air temperature
In the spring and summer, caring for lilies is not difficult at all. Given that this is a fairly hardened plant, the bush will do well with medium room temperature, firmly enduring both heat and a slight cold snap, but not frost.
With the onset of spring, the tub can be taken out to open veranda, balcony or put in the garden. Fresh air will benefit the plant, so if the lily remains in the room, you need to ventilate the room more often.
Air humidity
Lily - home care does not require maintenance high humidity air, it is enough only occasionally, on especially hot days, to spray the flower from a spray bottle. To remove dirt from the leaves, it is recommended to wipe them once a week with a soft sponge or a piece of cotton wool soaked in water.
Watering lilies
In the spring-summer period, you need to remember the basic rule - to water more often, but with a small amount of water. It is known that bulbous plants rot quickly, so dampness should not be allowed. Better to water a little early in the morning and if upper layer the earth began to dry up - repeat the procedure in the late afternoon. Water the flower only with soft water warmed to room temperature.
Important! The flowers of the lily are heavy enough that it is recommended to tie the stems to a support so that she does not overturn the pot.
The composition of the soil for growing lilies
For a strong and healthy lily to grow, planting and caring for it must be carefully thought out and you need to start with choosing a good substrate. It is better to prepare the mixture yourself, it should be light, loose and at the same time nutritious.
Components:
- sod land - 3 parts,
- sheet land - 1 part,
- fresh humus - 1 part,
- coarse sand - 1 part.
It is imperative to prepare drainage: large expanded clay, ceramic shards and other materials are suitable. The drainage should take up at least a third of the pot's volume.
Too spacious container for lilies is not needed, otherwise it will affect flowering. But you can plant several specimens in one tub, in which case you will need a wider container.
Fertilization
After planting, caring for the lily must necessarily include regular feeding with complex mineral compounds and organic matter. It is better to choose fertilizers specially formulated for bulbous plants, and apply fertilizing according to the attached instructions. It should be taken into account that in the phase of active growth, the lily needs nitrogen, and with the appearance of the first flowers - in potassium and phosphorus.
The best organic food for a flower is considered to be slurry, diluted in a ratio of 1:10, it can be started to be applied with the onset of warm spring days and no more than 1 time in 3 months.
Planting and transplanting lilies
Planting bulbs is best done in autumn, the most favorable time is October. Bulbs should be chosen that have a fairly well developed root system and there are no spots of rot. At the bottom of the pot, you need to pour drainage and some prepared soil, then carefully place one or more onions and sprinkle them with soil about 2/3. In this case, the pot should not be filled to the top with the substrate, after the leaves grow, upper part the bulbs will need to be covered.
Before the young leaves appear, the flower should be in a cool and shaded place in a slightly damp substrate. After the emergence of shoots, the pot should be rearranged on the windowsill and gradually increase the watering. As you can see, planting and caring for a lily will not cause much difficulty.
It is undesirable to transplant lilies into larger containers; it is enough to replace the substrate.
Advice! To prevent the bulb from rotting, experienced florists it is recommended to plant it on a "pillow" of sand with a layer of 3 cm, previously calcined in the oven.
How to provide lilies with a dormant period during the winter season?
In autumn, the life processes of bulbous plants slow down and they need to provide a "rest" phase. During this time, the lily should be kept at a temperature of about +5 ° C, away from sunny color... Watering should be reduced as much as possible and only slightly moistened the substrate. With the onset of spring, the container can be placed on the windowsill and the frequency of watering can be gradually increased.
If it becomes necessary to separate the daughter bulbs, then it is best to do this in late autumn, so the mother plant is less injured, and the children can be immediately planted in separate containers.
The life span of a lily is 5–6 years, and at this age it blooms less and less, so it is better to plant the tub and re-grow the bush from young bulbs.
Diseases and pests of lilies
When caring for a lily at home, you need to carefully examine the bush, because in the fight against diseases and pests, it is important to detect the symptoms of damage as early as possible.
- The leaves are pale and lifeless - this indicates improper watering, you need to check the condition of the substrate.
- The flowers of the plant begin to darken - the room is too cool.
Excessive dampness can make a lily sick gray rot. it infection which at first strikes lower leaves and then spreads throughout the bush. No less dangerous disease -fusarium, its causative agent is a fungus that enters the bulb with mechanical damage, therefore it is so important to sprinkle the cut sites with crushed charcoal . The spread of the disease starts from the bottom of the bulb and gradually spreads to the entire surface. If the condition of the flower is not running, then you can try to cure it with the help of modern antifungal drugs.
Like most houseplants, in dry and hot weather, the lily can fall prey to spider mites or thrips. Spider mite characterized by a silvery bloom and yellowish spots on inner surface leaves. Thrips are small, light green insects that quickly spread throughout the bush. You can start treatment by flushing the pests with a solution of household or potassium soap, and fix the result with reliable broad-spectrum insecticides.
Decorate a room, greenhouse or winter Garden using tub lilies is a snap. They will not only delight large and bright flowers, but also fill the room with a delicious and delicate aroma.
Lily planting video
Many varieties of lilies can be grown at home. These include the royal lily, golden, dwarf, Asian and oriental groups, long-flowered and beautiful, as well as hippeastrum and amaryllis.
Bright graceful flowers will help create an atmosphere of incessant celebration in the house.
Planting and caring for home lilies in a pot
One onion is enough to get pot with a diameter of 16-18 cm, several lilies can be planted in a large container at once. If you place the bulb in a wide pots, instead of flowering, it will begin to actively develop the space, releasing many daughter bulbs. In addition, the pot must be tall.
Before planting, the bulbs must lie in the refrigerator at a temperature of 3-6 ° for at least 16-19 days.
Then they are treated with potassium permanganate for about 1.5-2 hours, keeping in a medium-pink solution. And at the last stage, the bulbs are immersed in a solution of growth stimulants, for example, Zircon, Succinic acid, Epin with the addition of trace elements.
At the same time, they prepare good soil... It should be fertile and loose, you can buy ready-made for lilies or mix garden soil with compost, sand and humus.
For each liter of soil add 40-60 g of mineral fertilizers.
They contain magnesium, iron, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. If desired, the soil is disinfected by thoroughly spilling it with fungicidal solutions and boiling water.
Drainage from pebbles is laid out on the bottom of the container, a layer of soil about 8-10 cm is poured, bulbs are placed on it and covered with an earthen layer of about 17-19 cm. It is advisable to leave sides 6-8 cm high on top, so that you can add soil as soon as how additional roots appear.
The house lily pot should be placed in a cool, shaded area until shoots form. Then the container is rearranged to the light, providing a constant flow of clean cool air. 
Caring for indoor lilies during active growth and flowering
How to care for lilies in a pot at home? A lily planted correctly in a pot begins to develop intensively. At this time, she needs to provide good food and moisture access.
Top dressing is carried out regularly with an interval of 7-9 days with complexes of microelements. They can be alternated with organic fertilizers.
Before flowering, young plants are sprayed with cool water twice a month, diluting growth stimulants in it. This procedure makes it easier to bookmark flower buds and subsequent flowering.
It is very important to regularly loosen the soil in the container so that air access to the roots is continuous. You can loosen the top layer about 4-6 cm thick, not deeper, so as not to damage the root system.
When the stems grow 9-12 cm in height, the house lily can be taken outside or on the balcony. But first you need to temper it, accustoming it gradually. Start off recommended from 25-35 minutes, increasing the residence time by half an hour every day. If the night temperature drops below 12 °, you should not leave the flower outside in order not to prolong the period of budding.
The development of leaves and flowers will go faster if the ground parts are regularly sprayed with soft water from a spray bottle. This can be done every day by placing the plant in the shade. Otherwise, you can get leaf burns under the influence of aggressive rays of the sun. Water should not get on the opened inflorescences and buds, as it greatly reduces their lifespan.
If there are a lot of flowers, it is necessary to install a support to support the stems. 
Watering
Almost all types of lilies require a fairly large amount of moisture when growing at home.
When the soil clod dries out, growth slows down, the plants begin to wither. Therefore, you need to water abundantly and often - with an interval of no more than 3-4 days.
Only soft water is used - boiled and cooled or settled. You can also use rain or thawed. Watering with hard water forms a whitish coating on the surface of the soil in the pot, which does not allow air to pass through. In addition, salts are deposited on the roots of plants.
Post-flowering care
In nature and when grown outdoors, the ground parts of lilies gradually turn yellow and dry, and the bulbs go into a dormant state. Houseplants do the same. To bloom on next year they need to rest. Our task is to provide complete rest for several months.
At home lilies, the inflorescences first dry up and fall off, then the stems begin to turn yellow. You don't need to trim them! At this stage, the supply of moisture to the plant is reduced, increasing the interval between waterings to 6-8 days, and spraying is stopped. Thus, the transition of all nutrients accumulated ground part, into the onion. This is where the foundation is laid for next season's growth.
Waiting for the stems and leaves to dry out naturally, stop watering altogether.
The bulbs should be dug up and placed in a plastic bag filled with slightly damp sawdust or moss.
The package is removed to a cold place, where the temperature is kept within 3-6 °. This can be a basement, cellar, or refrigerator. 
Transfer
How to transplant indoor lilies? The transplant should be done every year with a complete replacement of the soil. During the flowering period of the lily, the earth manages to deplete and lose most of the nutrients, so the full development of the bulb and high-quality flowering can not be expected.
The most important - correct preparation bulbs to a dormant period and subsequent transplant. After the ground parts die off, the bulbs are dug up and washed, removing the soil. Small onions - children are immediately selected and planted in seedling boxes. They will actively grow all winter, gaining strength.
Large bulbs are examined, rot spots are cut out, processing the cuts with crushed charcoal (wood or activated). If the stem has not yet fallen off, it needs to be cut off, leaving a stump 4-6 cm long... The bulbs are disinfected by immersing them in a solution of fungicides or potassium permanganate for 25-40 minutes. Then it is dried on paper or soft material and put away in the cold.
At the end of February - March, the bulbs are taken out of the bag and planted in a pot with soil.
Why isn't the indoor lily blooming?
There may be several reasons, and they all relate to errors in maintenance and care. The plant does not receive enough nutrients, and it simply does not have enough strength to form buds. 
Lily suffers from a lack of moisture in the soil and air. The reasons are the lack fresh air and light when the flower is placed in a poorly ventilated area away from the window.
The bulb is planted in a pot that is too wide. She is busy with the development of the territory, intensively increasing the children.
Improper maintenance in winter without a pronounced rest period - in warmth or in the light. This is especially true for the hippeastrum.
Why do the leaves of a room lily turn yellow?
This problem is the most common, because the yellowing of the leaf blades of the lily signals about improper care of it. What can the color change indicate?
1. Autumn has come and the yellowing process is absolutely normal.
2. The direct rays of the sun hit the wet leaves, causing burns. Most often, in this case, only one side turns yellow - the one that is turned towards the sun. The plant must be rearranged and sprayed in the evening.
3. Excessive dryness of the air. To increase the moisture level, you can place an open container of water next to the lily, or place the pot on a tray filled with moistened stones (such as expanded clay or pebbles). Purchasing a humidifier will also help.
4. Inadequate nutrition. The plant during the active growing season consumes a large amount of trace elements from the soil, especially potassium and iron... If fertilizers are not applied on time, the leaves will turn yellow due to a violation of the process of photosynthesis, chlorophyll will simply cease to be produced. Feed the lily urgently using mineral complexes or a mixture ferrous sulfate with citric acid(2 tsp acid and 7-9 g of vitriol, stir in 3 liters of cool water).
Conclusion
To get constantly blooming beautiful plant, it is enough to follow the simple rules described in our article. And live lilies will decorate not only the front garden, but also the interior of the house.
First mention Asiatic lilies falls on the 50s of the last century. Is an a hybrid. Breeding form brought out Jan de Graaf. Initially, the plant had a blood orange hue. But later, thanks to anthocyanins, the plant had purple, snow-white and pink flowers. Further research revealed a whole group of lilies with a light shade.
Distributed in solitary and group plantings. Grows on garden plots, in greenhouses, greenhouses, botanical gardens.
Wherein plant height can reach 150 cm. good care can grow in indoor conditions ... But in this case length the flower will reach 30-50 cm. When growing at home, the plant may not bloom. Scent flowers are saturated, tart. The form can be different: stellar, cupped, turban, funnel-shaped, goblet. There is no fringe. Each flower has 6 petals.
Below are the photos Asiatic lily:
Care
Pruning
The crown formation procedure is optional. But after flowering on the plant remain withered flowers that must be removed on their own. Together with them, the ovary is cut off.
Seed bolls should not be allowed to appear
Reproduction seeds used only by breeders. The bolls greatly deplete the plant, after which it will begin to ache. Therefore, at the beginning of autumn, when the leaves begin to wither, the flower growers cut off the branch with the ovary and the seed box. This plant is not suitable for composting. Therefore, it is recommended to burn the stems.
Landing
This representative of the flora does not grow well in calcareous soils. The soil must be slightly acidic or neutral 5.9-6.7 pH.
Important so that black soil contains a large amount of vitamins and minerals. Can be used purchased soils for home flowering lilies.
You can also prepare the substrate yourself. For this use leafy soil, turf, humus, peat. For air permeability, put crushed charcoal. Allowed addition of coarse sea sand in very small quantities. Drainage from pebbles, clay shards or natural stones... You can use granite, rubble, gravel or crushed stone.
The use of stones containing limestone is prohibited.
The containers should be 2-3 cm larger than the root system of the plant. Planting depth depends on the size.
Transfer
The transplant procedure should only be performed in spring time.
The most common disease is botrytis.
On the leaves and stem of the flower will appear brown rust. If not accept precautions, then the spots will begin to spread, capturing more and more territory. Rust can affect branches, and even buds. The appearance and development of such a disease is affected by several factors: temperature drops, high humidity air, filling the root system with water.
Asiatic lily Is flawless flowering plant... The flowers of this representative of the flora are bright and colorful. Prefers spraying, bright lighting and replanting every 2-5 years. The plant is unpretentious in growth. Recommended to amateur flower growers.