Every spring, all gardeners are overcome by "planting disease". It begins as soon as the snow melts, and it is hardly possible to get rid of its symptoms until the end of May. Occasionally there are summer residents who do not run around the markets and nurseries in the spring in search of seedlings - they planted everything in the fall. So when is the best time to plant trees - in the fall or in the spring?
When can trees be planted?
Theoretically, trees can be planted all year round as long as the ground is not frozen. The most important thing for a planted tree is the fullest possible contact of the roots with the ground. If the soil is frozen, it will not be possible to compact it enough to provide such contact. If the roots of the tree hang in the void, it will not be able to replenish the moisture evaporated above-ground part. After all, the fact that trees “sleep” in winter does not mean that they do not lose moisture.
If you plant a tree in the middle of summer, for example, the biggest problem will again be increased evaporation of moisture, which, however, can be replenished with frequent watering.
Thus, trees can be successfully planted at any time of the year.
The main thing is to land correctly and provide thorough care. True, why create additional difficulties for yourself and the seedling, if there are optimal timing landings that reduce these difficulties to a minimum?
When is the best time to plant trees?
The period of physiological or forced dormancy, when the trees "sleep" in anticipation of favorable conditions for the growing season, is optimal for planting. Hibernation begins as soon as trees will fall foliage, and lasts until the opening of the kidneys. The tree does not care when exactly during this period it will be planted. However, there are a number of factors that are important for the gardener. Let's consider these factors in more detail.
Cons and pros of autumn planting
So, consider the reasons why you should not plant trees in the fall:
If the winter is exceptionally cold (as it was literally two years ago), the planted trees may freeze slightly. In addition, they can be damaged by heavy snow, ice, wind and other weather disasters.
Trees planted in the fall can be damaged by rodents or simply stolen if your garden is left unattended during the winter.
At the same time, there are significant advantages of autumn planting seedlings:
Lots of choices in autumn planting material, since it is during this period that nurseries begin selling seedlings.
If you plant trees in autumn, one watering will be enough, coolness and frequent rains will take care of your pets even without your participation.
If the winter is not too severe, the soil will not freeze to the depth of the roots. In this case, the planted tree will grow suction roots over the winter and heal the wounds caused by the transplant.
In the spring, the gardener-gardener has a lot of work: he needs not only to plant trees, but also to take care of the old garden, prepare the garden for planting, and so on and so forth. It's not so bad to do something in advance, freeing up time for other worries.
As you can see, there are more pluses in the autumn planting than minuses. So if you've been planting trees in the fall, keep doing the same. Now let's see if you should succumb to the "planting disease" in the spring and plant a couple more seedlings.
Should I plant trees in the spring or not?
Why is it problematic to plant trees in spring:
During spring planting, it is necessary to water the seedling twice: during planting and a day later, loosen the ground and cover with mulch. Further, you will also have to water the planted tree often, especially if the weather is hot or windy.
If the spring planting is late, then the planted tree will have a significantly reduced chance of surviving. If the tree has not yet taken on, as it should, and the sap flow has already begun, then it will only come out by providing special care, which not every amateur gardener can do.
In the spring, the market for planting material is poor - much is sold out in the fall.
Benefits of planting trees in spring:
During the winter, you have the opportunity to prepare theoretically, draw up a planting plan, on the basis of which you can already order seedlings - there will be no hasty decisions.
Winter is not such a “dead” season for a gardener: you can prepare pits, tools, and generally put the garden in order without rushing.
If you can't secure the site, you won't have to worry about planting trees all winter.
If you plant trees in the spring, they get one more year of vegetation - if you plant in the fall, you would have a crop a year later.
As you can see, there are more pluses here. So, if your “hands itch” to plant a tree, plant without looking back at those who mumble that it’s not right. That's right, this way, and that way. After weighing all the pros and cons, choose the most suitable time for you to plant trees.
Be sure to take into account the local weather and features. Residents of the southern regions, of course, are better off planting trees in the fall. There, the autumn is long and warm, and the spring is too quickly replaced by a hot summer. And the northerners better watch out for the harsh winter and plant trees in the spring. However, if you did not have time to plant something in March-April, postpone it until the fall. And if you don’t have time in the fall, fill in the gap next spring. Most importantly, plant trees and take care of them with love!
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How to plant a tree?
I hope you don’t think that planting a tree means digging a hole, sticking a seedling in there and filling it with earth?
In scientific terms, for a successful planting process, a number of rules must be followed under which the tree could form an active functional root system as quickly as possible, i.e. so that it takes root and receives the necessary substances and moisture for the development of the crown.
I wanted to talk about these rules, and for this you need to answer 3 questions, namely, what? as? when? Almost? where? when?)
What to consider when buying, unless of course you buy this seedling, and do not dig it up in the forest or in a neighboring area. I think it's worth highlighting a few simple rules:
Acquire in a specialized horticultural economy or a large firm, where you can get the necessary advice.
It is desirable that there be a label indicating the variety and breed.
So that the seedling does not have any distortions of the crown, a crooked trunk, an uneven distribution of branches along the trunk. And at least there must be 3 skeletal branches.
There should be no signs of injury or disease.
If the seedling is in a container, then the roots should not break through the drainage hole.
If the seedling is in a package, then the earthen ball should be dense and proportional to the above-ground part.
Seedlings with an open root system should not have damage on the roots, signs of disease, the roots should not be overdried. And also all the leaves of such seedlings must be removed.
When to plant? Here I see two options:
In autumn. The leaves have fallen off and the tree does not need to spend energy on feeding the crown, so it is engaged in the development of a new habitat. But one thing - winter-hardy varieties are planted in autumn, for example, apple trees, pears, berry and ornamental shrubs.
Spring. More heat-loving varieties are best planted in early spring otherwise they will not have enough time to prepare for the winter. This applies to apricots, cherries, plums, cherry plums, low-hardy varieties of pears and apple trees.
The time of planting a large-sized plant differs from, for example, the planting of lilac, which is planted from the second half of July to the beginning of September.
P.S. In this case, I meant the landing time in those areas where summer and relatively good weather lasts only 3-4 months.
P.P.S. Seedlings in containers can be planted in the summer, the main thing is that the roots are not overdried.
And now the landing itself, only 9 stages:
Designate a landing site. Here we think and plan the development of the future tree for years to come, so that it does not interfere with anything and has the opportunity to grow unhindered. We outline a place and designate a pit, which should be 2 times as wide as an earthen clod with roots.
Dig a hole. We separate the top excavated fertile layer from the bottom and pour them along different sides pits.
Loosen the bottom of the hole. This is done in order to make it easier for the roots to go deeper into the lower layers of the soil.
Fertilize planting soil. Upper layer the soil that we separated is diluted with mature compost or humus (Where to prepare compost can be found here). Add more pre-cooked fertile soil And mineral fertilizers. The lower unused layer of soil can be used to fill holes in the area, if any)
Drive in the stake. We install the support even before planting so as not to damage the roots, as a rule, it is needed for large plants.
Place the seedling in the hole. At the bottom of the pit we pour a little prepared earth and set the seedling vertically. At the same time, we do not sink the root system into the soil (we do not bury it), the root ball of the earth should only be lightly sprinkled with earth on top. After all work, the level of the soil in landing pit taking into account the future draft, it should be about 5 centimeters higher than the level of the rest of the site.
Fill the hole with earth. I think it is obvious that before filling the hole, you need to remove what the root ball of the earth was wrapped in, it can be burlap, paper, etc.
Tie the seedling to the support. In the form of a figure eight, tie a seedling to the support with soft twine. The twine should not cut hard into the bark of the tree.
Water the plant well. We compact the earth around the trunk, and along the edges of the pit we make a roller for irrigation. We water the near-trunk circle well (so that the roots come into contact with the soil), after which we sprinkle (mulch) it with peat or humus by 5 cm.
How to plant a fruit tree?
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When is the right time to plant trees and shrubs?
It is preferable to plant deciduous trees at the time of the vegetation break, that is, in early spring before the leaves bloom or in the fall after the foliage has fallen.
The best time for autumn planting is mid-September and all of October, but you should focus on specific weather conditions.
Spring planting is carried out after thawing of the soil, which in temperate latitudes usually occurs in mid-April - early May.
On wet, heavy and compacted soils, it is recommended to plant trees in the spring.
In areas with early harsh winters, it is also preferable to plant seedlings in the spring.
Heat-loving trees and shrubs are planted in the spring after late spring frosts, since when planted in autumn, they may not survive the winter.
When planting trees in the spring, you need to make sure that the ground has thawed and does not have frozen areas.
Conifers and evergreens should be planted in late autumn, late summer or early autumn, so that they have time to take root in winter time fed the above-ground part with moisture.
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Pit preparation and seedling planting
If you're planning on planting fruit trees this spring, it's time to buy seedlings from a nursery and start planting trees. How to do it right - why you don’t need to dig deep holes to plant trees, trample the ground near the roots and dig it up every year afterwards, says Galina Kizima.
Planting trees: how to prepare the site
A year before planting a fruit tree, take a fancy to the place where you will plant a tree, and right on the virgin soil, start laying a compost pile in an area with a diameter of at least a meter and a height of up to 60–70 cm in the spring. tall (upright) marigolds. It's the best. But you can also plant seeds of an ornamental or real sunflower, or seedlings of corn, or sow seeds annual dahlias"Funny boys".
Just throw a bunch together with the plantings surrounding it in the fall to the mercy of fate. Fertilizers do not need to be applied, watering too. The frosts will break the stalks of the decorations, and they themselves will fall on the soil around the pile. Let them lie there. By next spring, the pile will settle down to the required 25-30 cm, and carefully spread everything that is lying around it around the pile.
How to plant trees
Tree planting is best done in spring (in the northern regions in May). Just straighten the roots of the seedling on the settled mound, slightly shortening the ends of the roots and cutting out the broken and diseased ones, drive in 3 stakes at an angle so that they can be tied around the seedling.
And fill the roots with soil to a height of about 15–20 cm. It is necessary to pour the soil gradually, spilling each layer with water from a watering can. Water will wash the soil down and fill all voids with it.
If you are used to tying seedlings to two stakes, then drive them not from the south and north of the seedling, as recommended in books (explanations on this are unintelligible), but drive the stakes in the direction of the prevailing winds in your area.
For example, the Northwest is dominated by westerly winds, which means that stakes must be driven in from the west and east of the seedling. Then the strapping will keep the seedling from swinging in the wind.
In subsequent years, the hill should be expanded. To do this, it is enough to pour around it once every 2–3 years during the summer. compost heap, and so that the perimeter of the tree has a neat appearance, each time pour peat or sand over the garbage and weeded weeds.
If you use peat, then remember that it acidifies the soil under the apple tree, and it prefers soil with a neutral reaction, so you must add ash to the peat at the rate of a half-liter jar for each bucket of peat.
The required feeding area for an apple or pear tree is approximately 4x4 sq. m, so gradually expand your landing pile to approximately these sizes.
Planted a tree: what's next?
Immediately after planting, be sure to shorten all branches and the central conductor by about a quarter of their length (this, of course, can be done before planting). The fact is that a plant develops correctly when there is a balance between its root system and the aerial part.
When planting a seedling root system is broken, the root sucking hairs are torn off, and the seedling does not supply moisture well to the top. And the leaves at the same time evaporate moisture as if nothing had happened, so the trunk dehydrates.
Sometimes after planting, the following picture is observed: they planted a bush or a tree, the plant spread its leaves and suddenly for no reason dried up, despite abundant watering. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to shorten the aerial part of the plant when planting, that is, to shorten the central conductor and all branches by a quarter of their length. Then the balance between the weakened root system and the aerial part too large for it will be restored, and the seedling will take root well.
All summer you will fold food waste and weeded weeds on the roots of the seedling and lightly sprinkle them with soil (or sand, peat).
Fruit tree seedlings: clay talker or "Kornevin"?
There are many myths and misconceptions associated with planting fruit trees. Let's take a look at those that have especially taken root in popular books for gardeners.
All authors recommend that before planting fruit trees, dip the roots of the seedling in a clay mash. The question is why? The roots supposedly take root better. Is it so? As is well known, clay does not allow moisture to pass through, so the roots do not dry out, but they cannot take water from the soil either. What's good here? And where did this recommendation come from?
But where. In the old days, seedlings of fruit trees from the nursery were carried on horseback far and long. Therefore, so that the roots would not dry out along the way, they were dipped in a clay mash, wrapped in wet canvas and wrapped in sackcloth, tied with a rope and taken for a long time. But when the seedlings were brought to the place, they were necessarily placed in water for 2–3 hours before planting, so that the clay was washed off the roots and they were saturated with moisture.
Someone wrote off the first part from old books, but forgot to write about the second, and so this clay talker went from book to book.
So no talkers, but just the opposite: put the seedling before planting in the water for 2 hours and then immediately plant it. And even better if you add any root former to the water, for example "Kornevin". If there is no "Kornevin", it does not matter. Ordinary honey is an excellent rooter (one tablespoon per bucket of water is enough for a seedling, and one teaspoon per glass is enough for a cutting).
And never keep seedlings in water for a long time, they will lose a significant part of potassium, and this will have a bad effect on their survival and further growth.
Planting seedlings: why trample the ground?
There is another very common misconception. It is recommended to trample the soil around the seedling after planting. This is explained by the fact that the soil should fill the voids under the roots and stick to the roots from all sides. Moreover, it is recommended to start trampling down from the periphery, gradually approaching the trunk so as not to break off the roots.
Wherever you start to stomp, break off anyway if you have weights under 80 kg. Wet soil compacted by trampling is poorly breathable, and the roots will experience oxygen starvation, and the voids under the roots cannot be filled with any trampling.
In order for the soil to fill the voids and it sticks to the roots from all sides, it is necessary not to trample at all, but gradually pour the soil on top of the roots and immediately pour water from the watering can, pour it again, and water it again. Here the water will wash the soil into the voids, and stick around all the roots with moist soil, besides leaving Free access air to the roots.
Fruit Tree Seedlings: Don't Plant Deep!
A big mistake is a deep planting of a seedling. This usually leads to a delay in the timing of the entry of the tree into fruiting. In addition, deep planting contributes to the appearance of abundant root shoots, especially for plums and cherries.
Trees should generally stand on their roots. Thick roots extending from the trunk are a conductive sewerage and plumbing system, so to speak. These roots do not absorb anything, but only conduct nutrient juices up and down. They are not afraid of frost and have the same frost resistance as the wood itself.
But the tender suction part of the root system, young thin roots can freeze slightly. They are usually located along the perimeter of the tree crown. That's why they need to be well taken care of. Feed, water, cover for the winter if you have snowless or too harsh winters.
IN northern regions tree roots extend quite far beyond the crown perimeter. For what self-respecting tree will climb into ground water, dense illuvial layers or sand and clay?
Since the roots do not go deep into cold and barren soils, but prefer to spread out in breadth in a small arable soil layer, they are vulnerable to large sudden frosts after a thaw. Therefore, I recommend not to rake the leaves in autumn, but, on the contrary, to throw them around the trees. And so that the wind does not blow them away, sprinkle a little sand, peat or any soil on top. Do not be afraid of pests and pathogens wintering on leaves, they are no more and no less than during spring and autumn digging of tree trunks.
Trunk circles of trees: do not dig!
The recommended digging of trunk circles, and even twice a year, is also, by the way, a delusion. Never dig in the soil trunk circles neither spring nor autumn! Do not keep her under steam, that is, naked. The soil must be covered, otherwise it collapses.
The easiest way is to make lawn bentgrass shoot-bearing (low grass with roots that lie only at a depth of 2-3 cm, and therefore do not interfere with other plants, growing rapidly due to rooting shoots, giving such a dense turf that you can play football). But it must be mowed as soon as it grows 10 cm in height, until late autumn, otherwise everything will seed around. This is the most comfortable lawn grass, it is not for nothing that golf courses are sown with it.
Whitewashing garden trees: when is it right?
Spring whitewashing of trees is truly a nationwide stupidity. Why is whitewashing fruit trees done? That's right, to protect the trunks, firstly, from frost holes, and secondly, from solar spring burns, thirdly - from rodents. Well, which of these three points is performed during spring whitewashing? That's right, nothing. Whitewashing, and even better - the correct shelter of tree trunks should be done in the fall!
author 
Galina Kizima Enthusiast gardener with 50 years of experience, author of original methods
Comment on the article "Planting fruit trees in spring: 3 rules and 5 myths"
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Flowering and ornamental shrubs make your garden beautiful and noticeable throughout the year. Which ones should be planted? Choose, and you will always enjoy the aroma, flowers and extraordinary berries of these plants:
- cinquefoil shrub ( Kuril tea, five-leafed)
- Japanese quince (henomeles)
- vesicle
- euonymus
- barberry
Potentilla shrub (Kuril tea, cinquefoil)
Potentilla shrub is a wonderful, unpretentious and winter-hardy plant. Flowering: a large number of large flowers of various colors (yellow, white, pink, orange). There are terry forms. Flowering lasts from May to August, some varieties bloom until October.
The height of the bush is from 0.5-0.7m to 1.5m. The crown is dense, strongly branched, has the shape of a ball. Good for cutting and shaping. Potentilla is photophilous and drought-resistant. However, in bright sunlight, the flowers may fade.
Potentilla is perfect for creating hedge, flower garden and decoration of the alpine slide. Pairs well with conifers. It is often planted in the foreground of plants with exposed bottoms.
Popular varieties:
- goldstar- bright yellow flowers up to 5 cm, blooms from June to October
- Abbotswood- pure white flowers, simple, 2.5 cm in diameter. Flowering: June - October
- snowbird- white, terry
- Annette- undersized shrub 0.5m, orange flowers
- pink beauty- dark pink flowers up to 3 cm in diameter. Flowering from June to frost
- Pink Queen- flowers are pink. Flowering from May to October
- princess syn. blink- pale pink flowers 2.5 cm
Chaenomeles - deciduous or semi-evergreen, beautiful flowering shrub, slow growing and quite spiny. Under favorable conditions, it can reach 3m in height and live up to 80 years. Japanese quince blooms with wonderful, large scarlet flowers in May. Quince feels great in sunny areas, blooms profusely and bears fruit. The yellow fruits of chaenomeles look like small apples and are rich in vitamin C.
Chaenomeles can be planted both singly against the background of a lawn, and in a group of plants, in a rocky garden, used as hedge. undersized species Japanese quince suitable for decorating an alpine slide or a border in a flower garden.
The real decoration of the garden will be clearstem tree chaenomeles. For this, cuttings of Japanese quince are grafted onto wild pear or mountain ash.
chaenomeles japanese(flowers are bright red, large up to 5cm, height up to 3m)
chaenomeles maulea(flowers 2-3cm red-brown, height up to 1m)
- Nivalis(red)
- Brilliant(bright red)
- Hollandia (salmon)
- Vesuvius(red)
- Pink Lady
quince beautiful Nakai(flowers red large, height up to 1m)
- Nakai Nivalis - white flowers
- Nakai Phylis Moore - salmon pink flowers
- Nakai Boule de Feu - Blooms bright red
- Nakai Simonii - semi-double red
Vesicle viburnum
Viburnum viburnum has beautiful, bright foliage different shades from yellow-green to wine-red. The leaves are large, corrugated, located on the sprawling branches of the vesicle. The crown of the bush is lush, spherical, easy to cut and shape.
The vesicle is ideal for hedges. A hedge of several varieties with different leaf colors and bright red fruits at the time of ripening looks interesting.
- Dart's Gold- height up to 1.5 meters. young foliage orange-yellow, turns green in summer, acquires a yellow-bronze hue by autumn
- Luteus- height up to 3 meters. Yellow variety. On the open areas- bright yellow, in the shade - yellow-green
- Red Baron- reaches 1.5-2 meters in height. Features pink flowers and red berries
- Coppertina- the height of the bush is 1.5–2.5 m, the foliage is orange in spring, it acquires red tones in summer. The flowers are white, after dissolution they become pink
- summer wine- shrub up to 2 meters in height. Young bushes are distinguished by beautiful wine-colored red foliage. Gradually the color changes to green
- diabolo- high bush up to 3 meters in height. Foliage is purplish-red, turning green in shade with a slight purple tint.
- Аurea- Bright yellow foliage with an orange tint.
Unpretentious, easily tolerates air pollution, grows well in shade and partial shade. There are quite a few species of euonymus, so among them you can find both low shrubs and large trees with a fluffy crown.
Euonymus blooms in May - June, but these flowers do not attract attention, but the most spectacular in this plant is, of course, foliage! In the spring she has the usual green color, but closer to autumn it flashes with all sorts of colors: white, yellow, purple, crimson, red, purple, orange.
The fruits of the euonymus are also interesting - bright boxes on long legs of bright, contrasting colors. They are not only the decoration of the autumn and winter garden but also attract birds. Attention! Euonymus fruits are poisonous!
Euonymus is used as ground cover shrubs, planted in flower arrangements, in paving windows, in rockeries and alpine slides. A good contrasting combination of euonymus with coniferous plants: thujas, junipers, boxwoods.
Fortune's euonymus- low, variegated shrub up to 0.5 meters in height. Valued for bright emerald foliage with a white or golden yellow border
- Vegetus
- Minimus
- emerald gaiety
- Emerald Gold
- sunspot
- sheridangold
- SilverQueen
japanese euonymus(Euonymus japonicus)
Euonymus European Albus
warty euonymus(Euonymus verrucosus) - reaches 1.5 meters, frost-resistant, very decorative
dwarf euonymus
euonymus coopman - creeping view without a trunk with arcuate branches
Gardeners every year ask the question - When is the best time to plant fruit trees? berry bushes , autumn or spring. Each season has its own advantages and disadvantages.
Consider in detail Why is it better to plant trees in autumn? when and how to land on your suburban area.
Each plant has its own favorable time for transplanting and planting in a new place.
Let's figure it out what fruit trees can be planted in autumn and why.
When the entire crop is harvested from the garden, it's time to start planting seedlings. This is a crucial time, the main thing is to have time to plant plants on time.
The main advantage of autumn planting is the reasonable price of seedlings. It is more profitable to buy seedlings in autumn: big choice freshly dug seedlings affordable price, quality material is easy to distinguish.
Often plants are sold with leaf remnants, fresh roots (which indicate healthy plant). In autumn, some gardeners often show the fruits inherent in this variety along with seedlings, which is very important for buyers.
Planting in the fall requires a minimum of care for seedlings in their summer cottage. Sometimes one watering is enough, then autumn weather and rains will create favorable conditions for seedlings.
The root system continues to grow, despite the fact that a dormant period has come. Root growth continues until the soil temperature drops to +4 degrees.
The main thing is to plant seedlings in time so that young roots can form before the onset of stable frosts. These new roots will begin to grow with the onset of spring, even 2-3 weeks earlier than the seedlings planted in the spring.
A significant plus of the autumn planting of trees and shrubs in the fall- the absence of other work in the garden and in the garden, in the spring there will be a lot of them.
In regions with warm winters it is better to plant in the fall, the earth does not freeze to the depth of the roots, young trees are not threatened by freezing and hypothermia.
Cons of autumn planting
Ice, strong wind, snowfall and other weather conditions can break young seedlings.
Main disadvantages:
- Severe frosts can harm immature trees.
-- rodents can damage seedlings in late autumn and winter.
- young seedlings can simply be stolen during your absence in the country.
Video - Fruit Tree Compatibility
What trees and shrubs take root well when planted in the fall
From fruit trees, one can distinguish winter-hardy varieties of pears and apple trees.
They also do well:
Aronia, currant, raspberry, gooseberry, honeysuckle, walnut, chestnut, birch, coniferous trees.
Avoid landing winter-hardy varieties trees and shrubs.
Apple trees, pears, apricots, plums, peaches, cherries, cherries, almonds.
Do not plant seedlings in the southern regions that were grown in the northern regions, they will not tolerate frosts that are not characteristic of their homeland.
The optimal period for planting trees and shrubs is the end of September and the whole of October. In warm weather, it can last until mid-November (southern regions).
Every year the weather is changeable and planting dates in autumn depend largely on weather conditions.
Important to remember: a guideline for planting and transplanting seedlings is the dormant period of plants, which occurs after the end of leaf fall.
Video - When is it better to plant seedlings of fruit and berry trees
It happens that it was not possible to land in the fall. And you still have seedlings or purchased seedlings are not subject to autumn planting - what to do in this case?
Storage in a cool and damp room (basement).
- Digging into the ground.
- snowing
Digging into the ground - properly buried trees will be well preserved and endure the winter. Dig a groove with a depth and width of 30-40 cm in the direction from west to east. The north side of the groove is vertical, and the south side is inclined at an angle of about 45 degrees. Lay the seedlings at a distance of 15-25 cm from each other, the roots are directed to the north, and the crown to the south. Fill the groove with earth, trample down and pour plenty of water. Sprinkle with dry earth, sawdust or fallen leaves before frost.
snowing - Seedlings are kept outdoors. Well-packed young trees overwinter under a sufficient layer of snow, which does not allow a decrease in temperature for normal storage of plants.
Basement storage
At low temperature basements from 0 to 10 degrees, seedlings are perfectly stored until spring, if well-moistened roots are lowered into sand, peat or sawdust. Relative humidity in the basement should be 87-90%. During storage in the basement, it is necessary to water the seedlings every 10 days.
Video - How to save seedlings until spring
When buying seedlings, pay attention to their external condition. Saplings can be with unripened shoots if they are dug out before natural leaf fall.
Trees with numerous leaves may not be ripe and overdried, since the main moisture loss comes through the leaves.
Fruit trees are photophilous, so choose southern areas for planting seedlings. You can plant trees in steps - tall to the north, short to the south, and there will be enough light for everyone.
Also consider the distance to buildings and communications from trees, it must be at least 4.5 m. When planting, you must know the size of the crown and root system. The roots of mature trees can even cause damage to the foundation.
Combine the trees on the site correctly: cherries grow well next to apricots. Walnut oppresses all trees that grow next to it. Do not plant an apple tree and a peach together. For more information about the compatibility of fruit trees, see .
The last month of summer pleases with its warmth and good weather. August is the time of collecting and processing the gifts of nature. And sometimes it is sad to look at the empty beds. Sow on them early-ripening plants that will ripen before the onset of autumn cold weather. In August, it's time to start a flower garden, as well as planting shrubs and some trees.
What can be planted in August
In August, the withering heat is no longer there, the nights have become cool. This is the best time to plant second wave greens and vegetables. Plant spicy greens (dill, parsley, coriander, etc.), spinach, arugula, salads. These crops are characterized by rapid germination, the growth of green mass, which can be repeatedly cut. From vegetables, you can re-plant radishes, beets, Beijing cabbage. They are not suitable for long-term storage and the size of the root crops will be small, but you will always have young and healthy vegetables on your table.
To increase the fertility of the land on the empty beds, sow green manure. Mustard, oil radish, beans, peas, phacelia - plants that will cover the ground with green sprouts in a short time. When they grow to 10-15 cm in height, plant them into the soil with a shovel or flat cutter.
In August, perennial flowers begin to be planted by dividing the bush. Peonies, phloxes, delphiniums, garden chamomile, astilba and many other perennials have already prepared for winter and will take root perfectly in a new place. Plant biennials in the flower garden so that already in next year they bloomed. Chinese carnation, garden bell, daisies, viola and many other biennials are planted in August. At the end of the last month of summer, start planting bulbous plants- Muscari, Pushkinia, crocuses, hyacinths, daffodils.
For planting shrubs and trees best time considered spring or autumn. But if you purchased a seedling with a closed root system, then it will take root perfectly in August.
Greens and vegetables
Very good for growing lettuce in August. Choose from varieties short term maturation. Lettuce grows well at a temperature of 10-15 0 C, after 30-35 days you can harvest when 4-6 leaves appear. Loosen lettuce beds and water more often.
Lettuce varieties:
- Ballet,
- Ruby,
- Lolo Biendo,
- Firebird,
- Crunchy Vitamin.
Arugula grows wonderfully in August. The plant grows quickly, withstands temperatures down to -7 0 C. Plant arugula in a sunny place and water well. Varieties of arugula: Corsica, Rococo, Poker, Euphoria.
Spinach is a crop for which August weather with cool nights is the best for growth and development. If in summer heat spinach needs to be shaded, then in August this is not necessary. Optimum temperature for the development of spinach 15–19 0 C, after 30–35 days it is ready for use in food. Requires abundant watering.
Spinach varieties:
- Matador,
- Butterfly,
- Stoic,
- Gigantic,
- Robust.
IN last month summer, plant dill, parsley, basil, coriander. After 25-40 days, spicy greens will be ready for cutting. For better seed germination, perform a scarification procedure: rub the seeds between your palms to break the integrity of the hard shell. Then soak the seeds in water for 24 hours or 4-6 hours in Epin (1-2 drops per 100 ml).
I plant dill on the beds with tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbage. The smell of dill repels pests, and summer dill is more fragrant and juicy.
Photo gallery: greens for planting in August
Choose lettuce varieties with a short growing season The best precursors for arugula are legumes, potatoes and squash 
Spinach likes coolness and short daylight hours Summer dill is more juicy and fragrant After 20–40 days, parsley is ready for cutting Basil requires abundant and frequent watering Coriander quickly forms a green mass
In August, an excellent radish grows. Planted at the beginning and even in the middle of the month, the radish is sweeter, without a sharp aftertaste. After 15–20 days, radishes can be served at the table.
Choose radish varieties with elongated root crops:
- 18 days
- Mokhovsky,
- french breakfast,
- Icicle,
- White Nights.
Until mid-August, you can plant beets. Root crops in 30-35 days will be small size but very sweet and tasty.
Beet varieties:
- Cold-resistant-19,
- incomparable,
- Slav,
- Bordeaux-237,
- Mulatto.
My beetroot, planted in August, sprouted much faster than when planted in the spring.
In August, they plant and get a good harvest of Beijing cabbage. Daylight hours are shorter than at the beginning of summer and the cabbage forms sprouts without arrowing. Chinese cabbage resistant to short-term night frosts.
Cabbage varieties:
- Wineglass,
- fortune teller,
- stonefly,
- Orange Mandarin F1.
Photo gallery: vegetables for planting in August
Choose varieties of radishes with elongated roots. August beets are small in size, but very sweet and tasty. 
Beijing cabbage is resistant to short-term frosts
Flowers
August is the best time for transplanting and propagating by dividing the perennial bush:
- peonies,
- astilba, phlox,
- garden chamomile.
These flowers have already completed their growth and are preparing for winter, so August is the best time to divide the rhizomes and plant them in a new place. Starting to divide the bush, cut ground part, leaving 3–5 cm. Dig the bush around the rhizome and turn it out together with the ground. Wash off the soil from the roots with a jet of water from a hose and they will disintegrate themselves. In some plants, the rhizome must be broken by hand or with a garden knife. Sprinkle slices with ash or grease with greenery. Each division should have roots and 3-5 buds. Plant them right away permanent place into the prepared soil: for 1 m 2 add a bucket of humus, 2–3 tbsp. spoons of complex fertilizer (for example, diamophos), a glass of ash. Prepare the ground 2-3 weeks before planting.
Photo gallery: perennials planted by dividing the bush in August
Plant peony delenki at a distance of 1 m Delphinium needs a well-lit place with light shade at noon 
Astilba looks good in single landing, and in a group with other flowers. If you pick up phloxes by flowering time, they will decorate the garden from spring to autumn garden chamomile it is better to plant in August, when there is no strong heat
Plant biennials in August:
- turkish cloves,
- viola,
- garden bell,
- daisies.
They will bloom next summer.
Also in August, it's time to plant bulbs, the dormant period of which is already over.
Photo gallery: bulbous, which are planted in August
Muscari is quite strong pleasant aroma Hyacinths emerge from under the snow already with buds The second name of the crocus is saffron The flowering of daffodils marks the arrival of spring 
Pushkinia - the most spectacular spring primrose
Trees and shrubs
Seedlings with a closed root system are grown in nurseries, where they receive everything they need for growth and development. Before removing a tree or shrub seedling from the container, water it thoroughly. Together with an earthen clod, plant the plant in a permanent place. With this planting, the roots are not damaged and the seedling takes root well.
In late August - early September, you can plant the following shrubs and trees:
- cranberry,
- cherry,
- redcurrant,
- mulberry.
Photo gallery: trees and shrubs planted in August
IN middle lane In Russia, swamp or large-fruited cranberries are grown. Lilac is a winter-hardy, shade-tolerant and fast-growing plant Juniper is a favorite plant among landscape designers Cherry is the most frost-resistant of all stone fruits Dogwood is an unpretentious, frost-resistant and long-lived shrub Red currant bears excellent fruit already in the third year after planting Mulberry begins to bear fruit through 5–7 years after planting
In August, the season of planting and caring for plants continues. In addition to planting winter plants, you can re-harvest a good harvest.