Insulation of the external walls of the building. How to insulate a wooden house from the outside and with what. Thermal insulation materials - new products on the market

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Home insulation is one of the the most important factors, affecting savings family budget. After all, if the house is ventilated from all sides, heating costs increase many times over. Experienced craftsmen do not advise insulating rooms from the inside - this leads not only to a decrease in usable area, but also to the destruction of walls due to the formation of condensation between the walls and thermal insulation, which means that such work should be carried out outside the buildings. Types of insulation for external walls, price and materials for making thermal insulation - this is the topic of our conversation today.

Wall insulation is very important for saving the family budget

The reason for external insulation is that the thermal insulation for walls made indoors does not allow the internal air to warm up the building. As a result, in the cold season, on a cooled wall, with inside, condensation forms. Thermal insulation prevents it from evaporating, which not only entails the formation of mold and mildew between the insulation and the wall. This leads to fairly rapid destruction of the wall. In addition, literally after a year or two a persistent smell of dampness begins to appear in the home, which is quite difficult to get rid of.

Extruded polystyrene foam - what is it?

This material has a higher cost, but its technical characteristics are much better. The most famous of such insulation for external walls can be safely called penoplex. It is quite durable, although it has a porous structure. It is also very convenient for plastering. Installation is carried out using special mastics and adhesive bases without the use of acetone, but the best option for external finishing can be called special plastic anchors.

For rodents and various pests, such insulation is of no interest. In addition, in its manufacture, substances are used that are not susceptible to the formation of fungus. In fact, there is only one minus - high flammability. The weight of the slabs is small, which, coupled with its strength, allows one person to carry out work on insulating the outside of the house with penoplex foam without any help.

Polyurethane foam - what are its disadvantages and advantages

This material has been known for a long time and has found application not only as a thermal insulator. It is used as a filler in armchairs and sofas, car and bus seats. To put it simply, this is foam rubber, which is probably known to every person.

It can only be used as insulation under panels. Its soft structure does not allow plastering. Although some home craftsmen, using foam rubber as a heat insulator, then close it or, which allows subsequent plastering of the wall.

It is important to know! Its huge disadvantage is its instability to high temperatures. In addition, “thanks to” its chemical composition, this thermal insulator, when ignited, releases very toxic substances that are quite easy to poison, unlike extruded polystyrene foam, which is not subject to combustion.

Many people are now talking about the harm caused by the phenol allegedly released by this material. However, the opinions of scientists here are divided. Some say that it is absolutely neutral, while others, on the contrary, claim that it causes colossal harm to the body. We will not take sides, limiting ourselves to stating the facts - this material is now used in almost all furniture, in cars, and even as a filling for pillows. And if its harm had been proven, it is unlikely that a self-respecting manufacturer would dare to poison people.

Mineral wool, its varieties and the possibility of using it for thermal insulation

This heat insulator can be used inside or in external thermal insulation of walls with subsequent finishing with siding or wall panels. It is most widely used in the construction of ventilated facades and insulation. Most often, a variety of it is used for these purposes - slabs of a certain size of basalt insulation, the price of which is relatively low.

Mineral wool has higher thermal conductivity and vapor permeability than previous options. It is due to this that it is the cheapest insulation. However, when using it, the heat in the house becomes quite sufficient. A rather unpleasant moment is that when working with it, the body begins to itch. Of course, not as strong as it was with its predecessor - glass wool, but still sensitive. In addition, it is a rather brittle and fragile material. But still, for this type of insulation, such as a ventilated facade, such a thermal insulator is practically irreplaceable.

Liquid insulation for walls - how to use it and how well it performs its functions

In appearance, such a heat insulator resembles thick paint. There is no doubt about the quality of its performance of its functions. However, its popularity is reduced by its high cost - not everyone can afford it. It is for this reason that professionals advise applying it only in the corners of the house and at the joints of the foundation and walls. It is better to cover the remaining area with more affordable insulation. Choosing it to insulate all wall surfaces will be very wasteful.

This material can be divided into 2 groups - heat paint and liquid foam. Both of them do an excellent job not only with insulation, but also with. It fits well on them, which means they are compatible with any material. High adhesion allows the use of this heat insulator on any surface, be it stone, concrete, brick or wood.

Main manufacturers of thermal insulation materials - a brief overview

There are quite a lot of thermal insulation manufacturers in Russia. And each of them is good in its own way, and therefore there is no point in compiling any kind of rating. Which means today we’ll just say a few words about each of them.

  • "Ecover"– manufacturer of basalt slabs of very good quality. In addition to wall materials, it produces roofing heat-insulating materials and sandwich panels.

  • "Knauf"- the same mineral wool, but the manufacturer’s peculiarity is that he produces it not in slabs, but in rolls. The thickness of the layer may vary.
  • "Isover"– glass wool and its varieties. This thermal insulator has a very big drawback– organization of moisture removal is required
  • "Penofol"– basalt slabs are of quite high quality, but the heat-insulating material made from extruded polystyrene foam brought great popularity to this brand.
  • "TechnoNIKOL" is a brand known throughout Russia and with factories in many regions. In addition to roofing felt and others roofing materials produces EPS boards and basalt insulation.
  • "URSA"– mainly basalt and fiberglass slabs of excellent quality
  • "Penoplex"– the name has become a household name. “Penoplex” is now the name given to all EPS boards, regardless of the manufacturer.
  • "Ekoteplin"– unique and completely natural tile materials, which contain flax fibers, borax and starch.

  • "Astratek"liquid insulation, which have no analogues in Russia. High-quality thermal insulation is achieved by applying a layer of only 3 mm.

Related article:

By selecting slabs of suitable thickness, you can ensure a sufficient level of thermal insulation of walls, floors, and ceilings. Let's talk about this insulation in more detail in our review.

The list of manufacturers can be endless; we have named only a few of the most famous.

Features of wall insulation outside the house - ventilated facade

Mineral wool is used for the ventilated façade. In simple words without using construction terms, a frame is assembled on the wall from a metal profile with cells the size of mineral, fiberglass or basalt slabs, or the same profiles are attached in a line from the bottom to the top of the building, between which insulation is laid. Afterwards it is closed with a special hydro-and. The cladding is made with ceramic-granite tiles (usually 50x50 cm), which are fixed to the same guides using special metal clamps called “crabs”.

In this way, the developer achieves a solution to several problems at once - insulation, vapor barrier and finishing.

Three-layer wall construction - installation features

In this way, the walls of low-rise buildings are often insulated from or. The technology is quite simple. A building made of rough brick is insulated from the outside using any polymer thermal insulator, and then covered facing bricks. But although the quality of such thermal insulation is not bad, this method also has its drawbacks. The main one can be called the low durability of insulation compared to construction and facing material. Despite this, the popularity of such insulation is quite high.

Calculation of insulation for house walls: convenient online calculators

It is not difficult to calculate the required dimensions of the slabs according to the length and width of the wall. Much big problem here is a calculation of the required thickness, which depends on many different parameters, including the region in which the residential building is located. That is why we suggest you use our online calculators, which will perform all the calculations themselves.

Online calculator for calculating the thickness of insulation of the walls of a wooden house

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board or natural lining plywood OSB sheets lining or MDF panels natural cork chipboards or fiberboard sheets plasterboard

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Online calculator for calculating the thickness of wall insulation with Penoplex

The market for thermal insulation materials offers us a huge selection of options for external wall insulation, especially popular. These are products based on mineral wool, liquid insulation, classic polystyrene foam, and a variety of products made from polystyrene foam.

In this article we will figure out which insulation is better, study reviews, and find out what should be followed when choosing a thermal insulation material in each specific case.

1 Why do you need external insulation of the walls of a house?

External thermal insulation of walls greatly increases the comfort of living in the house, both in winter and in cold seasons. By insulating the walls of your house with high-quality insulation, your house will receive full protection at any time not only from freezing, but also from overheating of brick, expanded clay concrete or gas silicate blocks in the summer.

Moreover, good thermal insulation materials, as a rule, are completely hydrophobic (for example) - they do not absorb water, so the walls of the house will be reliably protected from moisture.

External thermal insulation performed according to the correct technology increases the average temperature inside the house by 4-5 degrees, since the walls do not freeze in winter and do not transfer cold to the air inside the house, which, as reviews indicate, can significantly reduce the financial costs of heating the room.

High-quality calculated and executed thermal insulation even at the stage of building a house makes it possible to optimally select elements heating system, and save on both the boiler and radiators.

Similar savings apply to equipment for maintaining a comfortable temperature for humans during the hot season. Thermal insulation materials work not only for insulation.

Since their thermal conductivity is minimal, they do not allow the walls of a house made of brick, expanded clay concrete or gas silicate blocks to warm up under the scorching rays of the sun, as a result of which in the summer the inside of such a house is much cooler than in non-insulated buildings.

The right approach to sandwich wall insulation

2 Types of insulation

Depending on financial capabilities, foam plastic, mineral (basalt wool), liquid penoizol, or extruded polystyrene foam can be used as a material for external thermal insulation of walls. It is not recommended to save on thermal insulation materials.

Of course, there are ways to insulate walls made of brick, expanded clay concrete, or gas silicate blocks with polystyrene foam on a budget; such insulation will provide a certain improvement, however, you should not expect from it the same effectiveness as from insulating a house with basalt wool or foam insulation.

When choosing insulation, the key factor is its thermal conductivity coefficient, which will determine the thickness of the material layer required for wall cladding.

For almost all materials in demand today in the average price category, this indicator ranges from 0.025 to 0.045 W/μ (Watt per meter per Kelvin). The extreme place is occupied by polystyrene foam, for which this indicator is equal to 0.043 W/μ like that of.

When choosing materials for external wall insulation, it is also important to take into account such qualities as hydrophobicity (resistance to water), chemical inertness and mechanical strength, since these factors directly affect the durability of the insulation.

It is best that the heat insulator also has noise-reducing properties, which will allow you to kill two birds with one stone: external insulation of the house will also solve the issue of sound insulation of the home.

According to statistics, at least 85% of private residential buildings built over 20 years ago do not meet thermal insulation standards. As a result, people are forced to spend a large amount of money on heating their premises in order to maintain a comfortable temperature for their homes during the winter period.

As the graph below shows, even insulating the external walls of a house with a ten-centimeter layer of ordinary inexpensive insulation (the same polystyrene foam, or extruded polystyrene foam) reduces heat loss through the walls by at least 3 times.

2.1 Mineral wool

The most popular insulation for the outer part of walls is mineral wool. Insulating walls outside with mineral wool is very popular due to the excellent thermal insulation characteristics and reasonable price of this material.

The concept of mineral wool can mean three types of insulation: wool based on basalt rocks, slag wool (made from slag left in blast furnaces of the metallurgical industry) and glass wool made from cullet and similar waste.

Basalt wool is considered the highest quality option for mineral wool.. The production methods of this insulation are based on the melting of basalt rocks.

Rock smelting can be carried out either in blast furnaces or by induction heating under the influence of electromagnetic radiation.

Molten basalt rock is fed into a centrifuge, inside of which there is a cooled forming drum. Due to the pressure drop and centrifugal force of the drum, individual basalt fibers are formed from the melt on its surface, which are fed to the former.

The forming unit turns individual mineral wool fibers into a continuous carpet like that, which is impregnated with additives that improve operational properties mineral wool.

Mineral wool itself is susceptible to moisture absorption to eliminate this disadvantage Manufacturers impregnate it with a polymer mixture, which, after hardening, gives the mineral wool the required hydrophobicity.

Comparison technical characteristics different types of mineral wool

  1. Temperature conditions: slag wool (SHW) – up to 250, glass wool (SV) – up to 450, basalt wool (BV) – up to 1000 degrees;
  2. Thermal conductivity coefficient: ШВ – from 0.46 to 0.48; SV – from 0.038 to 0.046; BV – 0.035 to 0.042 W/m-k;
  3. Flammability class: all types correspond to class NG (non-flammable);
  4. Absorption coefficient for 24 hours of immersion in water: SW – 1.9%, SW – 1.7%, BW -0.095%;
  5. Causticity: SHV – yes, SV – yes, BV – absent;
  6. Concentration of binding impurities: for all types of mineral wool from 2.5 to 10%;
  7. Nominal heat capacity: ШВ – 1000, СВ – 1050, БВ – 1050 J/kg;
  8. Mineral wool sintering temperature: ШВ – 250, СВ – 450, БВ – 600 degrees;
  9. Length of individual fibers: SHV – 16, SV – 15-50, BV – 16 millimeters;
  10. The noise reduction coefficient is the same as: ШВ – 0.75-0.82; NE – 0.8-0.92; BV – 0.75-0.95.

Mineral wool is produced in the form of rolls and slabs, suitable for insulating walls made of brick, expanded clay concrete, or gas silicate blocks. This insulation, as evidenced by reviews, is the best option for thermal insulation attic floors, floor, and any flat surfaces.

2.2 Liquid penoizol

Of the liquid insulation materials, the most popular option is penoizol.

This is not an option that is suitable for arranging thermal insulation with your own hands, since you will need to rent special equipment that produces foam insulation directly on the job site, and pay the labor of the workers managing it, however, if you are not afraid of these difficulties and the accompanying financial costs, then penoizol is the best option for insulating the external walls of a house.

In general, the cost of insulating a house with foam insulation is comparable to the final price of insulating a house with mineral wool.

However, there is one important difference, penoizol is also successfully used to insulate the internal voids of already used hollow walls made of brick, expanded clay concrete, or gas silicate blocks, without the need to dismantle them, which cannot be done with other insulation materials.

Among the advantages of insulating a house with penoizol is maximum protection of the walls from any external influence, since after hardening the penoizol turns into a monolithic surface through which neither wind nor moisture passes.

Solidity guarantees and high-quality insulation, since the possibility of the formation of cold bridges, which reduces the effectiveness of the entire thermal insulation, is eliminated.

To insulate a house with penoizol, a plant is delivered to the work site that produces foam from a special resin and chemical reagents.

Penoizol is applied to the wall using a hose; the surface of the walls is first coated with special compounds to improve adhesion. A facing layer of siding or any decorative material is installed on top of the penoizol.

2.3 Extruded polystyrene foam

This material is used not only for insulating the external walls of a house. Due to its mechanical strength and durability, expanded polystyrene is also used for thermal insulation of the external contour of a foundation located in the ground.

Using extruded polystyrene foam to insulate a house stand is justified if your house itself has good thermal insulation and you are looking for an inexpensive and durable material.

Among all budget options insulation, polystyrene foam is the best option, superior to conventional foam in all respects. Among strengths The following advantages can be identified from this material:

  • Maximum hydrophobicity (expanded polystyrene, like polystyrene foam, is completely waterproof);
  • Low thermal conductivity coefficient, from 0.029 to 0.034 W/m-k;
  • High density, and, as a result, resistance to deformation;
  • Chemical resistance;
  • Wide range permissible temperatures, from -500 to +700 degrees;
  • Self-extinguishing property;
  • Minimum panel weight and thickness.

It is also worth highlighting the ease of installation of extruded polystyrene foam on all types of walls. In order to fix this insulation on a surface made of brick, expanded clay concrete or gas silicate blocks, it is not necessary to install an additional supporting frame, which is necessary when installing mineral wool.

Extruded polystyrene foam panels are mounted on the walls using liquid nails and secured around the perimeter with umbrella-shaped anchors.

No matter how comfortable and modern a house is, without high-quality thermal insulation it will not become comfortable for living. Properly organized insulation can significantly reduce heating costs, protect the facade of the house and its premises from dampness, freezing, mold and fungi, which will significantly extend the life of the building. The most popular is external, or facade, insulation of a house.

Advantages and disadvantages of external insulation

All load-bearing elements of the building must be thermally insulated, but this is especially important for the external walls of the house, since they are the ones that lead in terms of heat loss.

By insulating external walls, it is possible to protect them from negative impact high and low temperatures, as well as their sudden changes. As a rule, the insulation is covered with a facade, which also performs a protective function, taking on the atmospheric influences. All this helps to maintain the strength of the walls and increase their service life without repairs.

Insulation from the outside can be quite extensive, but this does not in any way affect the usable area of ​​​​the premises in the house. This cannot be achieved when insulating rooms from the inside, because even the thinnest layer of thermal insulation leads to a slight reduction in usable area.

In addition, with external insulation, it is possible to avoid the formation of “cold bridges” that inevitably arise between the floor and walls, walls and partitions when internally insulating a room. User reviews suggest that “cold bridges” practically do not form when insulating the facade. Otherwise, they can be easily eliminated by using special gaskets at the joints of insulation sheets.

The task of thermal insulation of external walls is to achieve total indicator their resistance to heat transfer to a calculated value that is optimal for a particular area. Such calculations will be discussed in more detail below.

Typically, insulation is applied to already erected walls. Thanks to diversity modern materials and insulation techniques, it is possible to solve the problems of heat transfer and, accordingly, protect walls from freezing, erosion on concrete surfaces, and rotting of wooden structures.

In rare cases, you can do without additional wall insulation in frame houses Firstly. Others, for example, foam block houses, definitely need thermal insulation.

Methods

Depending on the type of facade, structural features and the chosen option exterior finishing one or another method of installing insulation is selected. Today's thermal insulation materials have a small thickness with high thermal efficiency. They are suitable for installation on both “wet” and “dry” facades, and can also be poured into wall voids. The first involves the use of building mixtures for finishing; the insulation is fixed with glue.

Curtain facades require the use of fasteners. As a rule, panels and tiles are used for decoration, which delight in the variety of designs. The user can choose calm, muted shades of the panels or, on the contrary, bright ones. Facade materials imitating stone, wood, imitating plaster or brickwork are very popular.

Insulation with bulk material, for example, granulated foam glass used in the construction of walls using the well method. Also, materials of this type are suitable for mixing masonry mortars and plaster mixtures. Regardless of the chosen method of laying insulation, the surface of the walls should be prepared. All protruding elements must be knocked off, cracks and gaps must be eliminated using cement mortar.

It is necessary to remove all communications from the facade - wires, pipes. The surface must be smooth, clean and dry. After this, it is necessary to prime the facade in 2-3 layers. The primer will provide additional protection walls, as well as better adhesion of materials. It is recommended to pre-treat wooden surfaces with an antiseptic or choose a primer containing antiseptic additives.

Under plaster

Insulation in the form of sheets or plates is glued to the prepared wall with special glue. Additional fixation is provided by umbrella dowels, which are inserted into specially made holes on the surface of the glued insulation. Each subsequent row of insulation is attached with an offset of ½ sheet of the previous row. For some time after gluing, the material remains mobile, so it is possible to level it and correct minor defects.

After the insulation is fixed, a thick layer of glue is applied to it, into which the reinforcing mesh is pressed. First, it is attached to the corners of the building, for which special corners are used. After about a day, the facade mesh is securely installed at the corners and you can begin attaching the mesh to the remaining surfaces of the facade.

The next stage is plastering the surfaces. The composition is applied in several layers. Each subsequent one is after the previous one has completely dried. To improve the adhesion of layers and eliminate minor irregularities, you should go over the dry layer with fine sandpaper.

The final layer of plaster is covered with decorative plaster or painted with facade paint. The latter usually has acrylic base, the presence of polyurethane in the composition is acceptable to increase the strength and wear resistance of the painted layer.

Ventilated facade

To increase the thermal efficiency of buildings, they are increasingly resorting to organizing a ventilated facade. Its peculiarity is the presence of an air space between the insulation fixed close to the wall and the facade material. This distance is usually 25-50 mm.

In addition to preparing the facade, it is necessary to install sheathing - a system consisting of metal profiles or wooden bars, which serves as a frame. Facade materials are attached to this frame.

Metal profiles are increasingly used for lathing, which is due to their greater load-bearing capacity, as well as durability and fire resistance. Important point– sheathing profiles must be made of stainless steel. It is permissible to use other metals, but provided that they have anti-corrosion protection.

Wooden logs are also used as a frame. Before installation, they are treated with fire retardants and compounds that increase the hydrophobicity of wood. The frame is attached to the entire surface of the facade using brackets. Between the sheathing guides, insulation is placed (in the form of sheets, mats), which is attached to the brackets (as if hung on them).

A waterproofing layer is laid on top of the insulation windproof membrane, serving to protect the heat-insulating layer from moisture and blowing. The membrane, together with the insulation, is fixed to the wall using disc-shaped dowels. Fastening element must be in the center of each thermal insulation sheet, 2-3 dowels are installed at the edges.

The completion of the work is the installation of hanging panels or tiles, which are attached with self-tapping screws to the sheathing and interlock with each other using a locking mechanism. The latter ensures the wind resistance of the facade and the absence of gaps in it. For decorating corners, windows and doorways, various architectural elements use special additional structures.

It is a mistake to think that only a curtain façade can be ventilated. “Wet” technology is quite applicable to a ventilated system. For this purpose, the facade is also decorated with wooden lathing, between the guides of which insulation is glued. A protective membrane is installed on top of it.

This “pie” is covered with a continuous sheathing of plywood or boards. They are attached to wooden joists, this creates a solid wooden “facade”. It is primed, and after drying, finishing plastering is done.

Finally, there is the so-called A complex approach– organization of a ventilated façade using thermal panels. The latter are insulated facade slabs (for example, clinker), which are glued or fixed to the sheathing. There is no need for additional insulation of the walls, the main thing is to select the required thickness of the thermal panel insulation (standard thickness is 30-100 mm) and seal the gaps between the facade tiles.

Three-layer system

This insulation technology is only possible when constructing the walls of a house. As a rule, it involves laying walls according to the principle of a well. As the level of the façade rises, an air space is formed between the walls. It is filled with bulk insulation or liquid heat-insulating mixtures.

An option for such construction could be the use of large aerated concrete blocks with large cavities for the construction of walls. The cavities in the blocks are filled with bulk insulation materials (expanded clay, perlite).

A simpler and less labor-intensive way to build warm walls is the use of permanent polystyrene foam formwork blocks. Installing blocks is somewhat similar to assembling children's construction set– elements of the wall structure are fastened together using tenons and grooves. After the wall has risen somewhat, a reinforcing belt is installed and concrete mortar is poured.

The result is reinforced concrete walls equipped with an internal and external thermal insulation layer. In this case, facade finishing is carried out using brickwork of ½ brick, facade tiles, or simply plastering. The choice of interior finishing options is also wide.

The only way to organize a three-layer insulation system is to cover the structure with brickwork. In other words, the masonry acts as the outer layer of the “pie”, as well as the final finishing of the facade.

The technology involves insulating a main wall with insulation, and then lining it with brick. This method Suitable only for reinforced foundations that protrude at least the width of a brick. If the bearing capacity of the existing foundation is small, then brick cladding requires installation of its own foundation. It, in turn, must be connected to the base of the main walls.

Varieties

Depending on the composition and manufacturing technologies, insulation materials have different appearance, technical characteristics and scope of application. There are materials that are used exclusively on flat surfaces, while others are only suitable for suspended ventilated facades.

However, modern insulation materials are quite versatile. Thus, bulk materials are suitable not only for insulating flat surfaces or backfilling between walls, but can also be added to cement mortar for pouring or screeding floors. Mineral wool materials are used for wet and curtain facades, and are also suitable for thermal insulation interior walls, floor and ceiling. Moreover, due to the heat resistance of stone wool, it can be used to insulate baths or saunas.

Stone wool can be used to insulate both structures that are not subject to loads, as well as those that are subject to pressure. To do this, you just need to choose the right density of wool.

Thanks to the variety of release forms, it is possible to choose a more convenient installation option for a specific site. So, for insulating flat, level areas it is convenient to use roll materials. Plates will help out if necessary to cover large, flat, vertical surfaces. Bulk materials or foam insulation are suitable for insulation basements.

Polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam

Previously, foam styrene insulation was almost the only one, and therefore was widely used. Today the situation is different, and owners of private houses are in no hurry to use it for thermal insulation.

Expanded polystyrene materials are presented in two types - unpressed expanded polystyrene (better known as polystyrene foam) and an analogue obtained through extrusion. Polystyrene foam is a lightweight rectangular block of white color that can have different thicknesses. The base is air-filled foam balls. They provide significant thermal efficiency indicators of the material.

However, it is important to understand that it is thanks to this structure that the material is able to absorb up to 300% of its weight of water. Naturally, in this case, not a trace remains of the former thermal efficiency.

Polystyrene foam does not allow walls to “breathe”, and after 5-7 years its thermal efficiency will decrease by about 8 times. This has been confirmed by laboratory tests and is associated with destructive changes in the material (the appearance of cracks and cavities).

The main danger of using polystyrene foam as insulation is its tendency to actively burn and release extremely toxic substances into the air.

In this regard, it is prohibited for use in construction in many European countries.

However, to be fair, it is worth noting that polystyrene foam, due to its light weight, does not require reinforcement of the facade, is easy to install, and has a low cost. A more modern type of foam is extruded polystyrene foam. Thanks to the technological features of production, the material was able to eliminate many of the disadvantages of its non-foamed counterpart. The extruded material also consists of many smaller (compared to foam) air bubbles

, each of which is isolated from its neighbor. This increases the thermal efficiency of the material, as well as mechanical strength and moisture resistance. The components of carbon dioxide or inert gases present in the composition somewhat increase the fire resistance of extruded insulation, but we can’t talk about its complete fire safety

no need to.

Due to low vapor permeability, the material is suitable for use only as part of ventilated facades. In this case, it is important to glue it tightly to the surface of the walls, avoiding gaps and cracks between the insulation and the wall.

Extruded polystyrene foam is good for insulating a basement or foundation. The increased strength of the material will ensure its resistance to soil pressure, and its moisture resistance will protect it from getting wet and damaging the base.

Polyurethane foam The use of polyurethane foam is considered one of the most thermal insulation, since its thermal insulation characteristics significantly exceed most thermal insulation materials. To achieve a positive effect, a layer of 2-3 cm is enough.

Polyurethane foam is a liquid type of insulation that is applied by spraying. After hardening, a durable moisture-resistant layer is formed. Thanks to the improved adhesion of the material, such a monolithic “coat” can be applied to almost any surface. An important advantage of polyurethane foam is its fire resistance. Even when decomposed under high temperatures, it does not release toxins.

It is worth noting the environmental friendliness of the coating. During spraying, the composition contains compounds that are hazardous to health, but as they harden, they evaporate. The material is not suitable for contact finishing(plaster, painting), since during the spraying process it is impossible to obtain a completely smooth and even surface.

Leveling the polyurethane foam “coat” (as well as its complete removal) is a very labor-intensive process. Among the disadvantages is low vapor permeability. This necessitates increased ventilation of the façade. Polyurethane foam is not recommended for application to wooden walls, since in just 5-7 years the wood rots due to constantly high humidity.

Mineral wool

Today, this material is becoming increasingly widespread due to its versatility, good thermal insulation performance and affordability. This material consists of randomly arranged fibers, between which large volumes of air bubbles are contained. They provide not only a high thermal insulation effect, but also good sound insulation.

When insulating facades, glass and basalt wool are usually used. The first is based on broken glass and quartz sand, which are subjected to melting. Long and thin fibers are formed from the semi-liquid mass, after which they are given the required shape (mats, rolls).

Glass wool is plastic, which makes it, firstly, easy to transport and store, and secondly, it can be used on uneven surfaces. The material is pressed and packaged in compact boxes or rolls. After opening the package, the material takes on the intended shape and volume. Moreover, due to the elasticity glass wool insulation optimal for covering wall surfaces with complex configurations.

The material does not rot, does not attract rodents or pathogenic microflora (fungi, insects). The combustion temperature is 500 degrees, which suggests a low flammability class of the material. An undoubted advantage is its affordable price.

A significant disadvantage of glass wool is its hygroscopicity. It is clear that when the material gets wet, it loses its technical characteristics. In this regard, when using insulation, it is important to consider reliable waterproofing or the possibility of regular ventilation.

Glass elements, being amorphous, stick together during operation. This causes shrinkage of the material - over time it becomes thinner, which negatively affects its thermal insulation abilities. Finally, glass wool fibers have cutting edges. They penetrate the skin, causing irritation.

In addition, rising into the air, glass wool particles enter the upper respiratory tract and on the surface of the mucous membranes, also causing swelling and irritation. To work with insulation, you must purchase a special suit, goggles, gloves and a respirator.

Basalt wool is more attractive from the point of view of installation and technical characteristics. It is also called stone, which is explained by the peculiarities of its composition. Cotton wool is made from molten rocks (basalt, dolomite). The heating temperature reaches 1300-1500 degrees. Fibers are also drawn from the molten raw material to form mats. Those, in turn, are subjected to pressing and additional heat treatment to obtain strength and geometric accuracy of shape.

Basalt wool is superior in thermal efficiency to glass fiber of similar density. Stone wool is distinguished by excellent vapor permeability and high water resistance (due to special impregnation of the fibers). Despite the density of the mats, they are easily cut with a construction knife. In this case, the adhesive composition can be applied directly to the cotton wool, as well as laying the plaster layer (after reinforcing the wool).

The fibers of basalt insulation are less brittle and do not prick. It’s easier to work with the material, although you shouldn’t give up a respirator. Like all mineral wool insulation, stone wool generates dust during installation, which has a negative impact on the respiratory system.

Liquid products

When applied, liquid insulation materials look like paint. However, they contain evacuated voids, thanks to which amazingly low thermal conductivity values ​​are achieved (by fractions of a thousand they exceed only the thermal conductivity of vacuum).

It is worth noting the ease of application and good adhesion with most building materials. The compositions are applied as paint coatings using brushes or rollers. Hardening time is on average 6-8 hours. After this, an attractive, fire-resistant, environmentally friendly surface is formed. The liquid coating also protects the walls from negative atmospheric influences and has anti-corrosion characteristics.

Bulk types

They are used to fill wall cavities or create solutions with thermal insulation properties. The oldest bulk heat insulator is expanded clay, which is “balls” of baked clay of different fractions. Thanks to its porous structure, the material has good thermal insulation properties. During the sintering process, it gains surface strength. In combination with low weight, this expands the scope of expanded clay.

The advantage of the material is its non-hygroscopicity (despite the porous structure), fire resistance (does not burn, does not emit toxins during heating), biostability (does not become a habitat for any form of life, home or food for rodents), environmental friendliness and affordable price. When using expanded clay, it is important to fill it with a thick layer, use a multi-layer structure or large hollow blocks.

This is the only way to achieve high-quality insulation. A more modern bulk insulation material is vermiculite. It is based on hydromica, which is subjected to high-temperature firing. As a result, it swells, turning into layered granules with big amount

por. It has a low thermal conductivity coefficient, fire resistance and durability. The only drawback is the high cost (on average, 7,000-10,000 rubles per m3 of vermiculite). The optimal solution in this regard is to add granules to the plaster mixture to obtain “warm plaster”. Due to its high vapor permeability, this plaster is successfully used on different types

surfaces.

The finished product is characterized by high thermal insulation values ​​(due to low density and gas-filling), and fire resistance. Perlite contains fine powder, which makes working with it quite difficult - the process promises to be troublesome and dusty. The best solution– mixing it into concrete or masonry mortars.

The use of the latter provides high-quality thermal insulation and reduces the risk of the formation of “cold bridges”, since the solution penetrates into the joints between bricks or blocks, filling cracks and voids. Perlite is also used as a component of “warm plasters”, the application of which not only copes with the function of thermal insulation of the house, but also acts as a finishing touch for the facade.

Criterias of choice

In addition to low thermal conductivity, insulation for external walls must be characterized by high fire resistance. The optimal materials are those that belong to the NG class (non-combustible materials) or have a low flammability class (G1, G2). Fortunately, most materials have the ability to self-extinguish, that is, they do not burn with an open flame.

However, modern synthetic-based insulation materials (and these are the majority) can emit dangerous combustion products when smoldering. According to statistics, they are the cause of human casualties in fires. In this regard, it is important to choose not only a fire-resistant material, but also to make sure that when burning it does not release toxic elements.

Another important criterion is the vapor permeability of the insulation. When insulating walls, it is important to bring the “dew point” to the outer layer of insulation. This point is a linearly varying boundary at which moisture transitions from one state of aggregation to another, or more precisely, from vapor to liquid. The liquid, in turn, leads to the walls and insulation becoming wet, after which the latter ceases to cope with its functions.

The walls become wet, erosion and other damage occur on them, areas of high humidity are found inside the house, which leads to damp walls, the appearance of mold, and insect nesting. Such troubles can be avoided by choosing insulation with high vapor barrier and moisture resistance and, of course, competent organization of the thermal insulation “pie” with mandatory use vapor barrier film or membranes.

When choosing insulation, it is important to consider the cladding material. So, for brick walls you can purchase polystyrene foam, but be sure to provide a ventilation system. Under wet facade Traditionally, stone wool or polystyrene foam is used. Mineral wool insulation is used under curtain facades, as well as under wooden buildings.

It is important to take into account the operating features of a suburban building. So, extruded polystyrene foam is quite suitable as insulation in a country house where you live only in the summer. If you decorate it with plaster, you will be able to decorate the façade cheaply and beautifully.

But polystyrene cannot be used to insulate aerated concrete walls. A good solution would be the use of mineral wool insulation and further finishing with siding. By the way, this option is optimal for houses made of cinder block and expanded clay concrete walls. Arbolite house, built from blocks with a thickness of 30 cm or more, does not need to be insulated. The exception is living in a region with a harsh climate.

Preparatory work

Preparatory work involve the selection and purchase of insulation. It is important to correctly calculate its quantity (volume), as well as its thickness. If thermal insulation is carried out independently by the owner of the house, the walls should be even and smooth.

To do this, communications are dismantled from their surface, protruding elements are knocked down, cracks are filled with cement mortar. After this, the facade is primed in 2-3 layers. When organizing a ventilated system, a sheathing is installed. When facing with brick, the foundation is strengthened.

Thickness calculation

When insulating, it is important not only to choose the right insulation, but also to calculate its required thickness. Using an excessively thin layer will not solve the heat loss problem. An unreasonably thick layer will lead to excessive load on the walls and an irrational increase in the cost of work.

There is a special formula for calculating the thickness of insulation, but it can be difficult for a non-professional to work with it. The calculation process can be simplified by knowing the regulatory requirements for wall thickness. So, for brick walls this thickness is 210 cm, for wooden walls - 53 cm. Next, you need to find out the thickness of the walls in own home, by subtraction, determine how many cm are missing from the standard values.

Installation technology

Majority modern insulation materials They are distinguished by their versatility and are suitable for mounting from the street to stone, concrete, wooden surfaces, and block bases. Both decorative compounds and tiles, panels and siding for tiles and natural finishing materials are used as finishing materials.

Installation technology varies depending on the organization of the façade system and the materials used. A little higher we already talked about 3 possible ways to install an insulated facade:

  • thermal insulation under plaster;
  • ventilated facade;
  • three-layer facade.

When insulating walls, it is important to take care of insulating the basement part. It is through the base that most of the heat loss occurs. As insulation will do foamed polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, basalt insulation.

The surface of the base is cleaned of façade covering and dirt, reinforced if necessary, leveled and primed. Next, the insulation is fixed in accordance with the technological recommendations for its installation.

Thermal insulation of external walls is perhaps the most important in the matter of room insulation. Internal thermal insulation less effective, although sometimes it is also done. Today we will tell you how external thermal insulation of walls is done and what needs to be taken into account.

The issue of the house frame material is important here, because it is important not only to choose insulation, but also to be able to make a high-quality installation. Also in the video in this article and photos you can see the principles of choosing insulation and options for its installation.

Why choose external insulation

The main advantages of external insulation are that the space inside the room is preserved, but at the same time the home is protected from cooling, which significantly increases heat saving. Due to this, the building frame becomes stronger and more durable.

The advantages also include some other features:

  • Thermal insulation on the outside of the walls does not put a load on the structure and does not put pressure on the foundation.
  • Walls with external thermal insulation retain heat for a long time because they do not cool. In addition, moisture evaporates well from the external insulation, which contributes to the excellent service life of the building frame and its walls.
  • External insulation protects not only the walls, but also the entire structure of the building from freezing, which is a significant advantage when choosing this type of insulation. Internal protection against cold provides thermal insulation, at which outer wall It freezes quickly even with not a very big minus.
  • If you only provide internal insulation of the walls of the house, over time a niche will form in which condensation accumulates. This contributes to the emergence and growth of fungus, which is very dangerous to health. In addition, condensation helps to significantly cool the wall.
  • Condensation, which can accumulate in the area between the internal insulation and the wall, does not dry out in the summer. This contributes to the rapid aging of the walls. If insulation is applied externally, the condensation point is in the insulating material.
  • A huge advantage of external insulation is that such protection significantly increases the sound insulation characteristics of materials of any type.
  • All the work on fastening materials can be done with your own hands and you do not need special equipment for this. Accordingly, the final price will be much lower.

Thermal insulation materials

Laying thermal insulation on an external wall is done according to technology. Blanks for the production of bases from which the most popular insulating materials for external wall decoration are created are foam plastic (expanded polystyrene) and mineral wool. When choosing thermal insulation surfaces, great attention must be paid to quality.

Expanded polystyrene

The foam is welded together from small granules into which moisture does not penetrate. To obtain a foam base, granules are converted into cells by exposure to high temperature. The granules themselves contain a large number of microcells. So, each of polystyrene foam boards Almost 99% consists of airspace.

This:

  • The price of the material is reasonable and this played a role. Polystyrene foam is not inferior in quality to other heat-insulating materials (see How to insulate walls with polystyrene foam yourself). Standard slabs of expanded polystyrene are made from 5 to 10 cm thick. Polystyrene foam is quite reliable because it is moisture resistant. It is protected from rotting processes.
  • Expanded polystyrene is divided into several types. The first of them is extruded. This species has a fine cell structure when viewed in cross-section. It is used for insulating fences, basements (where it is quite damp), garages, and outbuildings. The second is expanded, with larger cells.
  • If we consider expanded polystyrene from the point of view of the quality of its thermal insulation characteristics, it is quite popular not only because it is affordable, but also due to its simple installation scheme.
  • It is also important to take into account that when installing foam boards, it is necessary to use a special cladding, or plaster the outside of the walls. Leaving the foam protection exposed is not practical.

Mineral wool

This name was given to this material solely because of its composition. It is “woven” from mineral fibers. This vata is divided into subtypes. It all depends on the raw material and its origin.

So:

  • There is stone mineral wool (see. How to insulate walls outside with mineral wool ) . It is made of rocks. No less popular is high-quality slag wool, which is created from open-hearth or blast furnace slag.
  • This type of insulation does not have a cellular, but a fibrous structure.. Fiber binders are synthetic. The products are in the form of mats or slabs. The thickness of each layer reaches 10 cm. The minimum is 5 cm. Large areas of working surfaces are mounted with mats.
  • Mineral wool has significant advantages. These are excellent thermal insulation properties and the impossibility of spontaneous combustion. Such plates are resistant to external damage and do not deteriorate when exposed to moisture. Mineral wool will not become a breeding ground for insects.
  • There will be no difficulties during installation, the manufacturers of this material promise. In addition, it is very resistant to mold and temperature changes.

Glass wool

In terms of its characteristics, it is similar to mineral wool, but in essence it is what remains of glass production.

  • Glass wool has excellent resistance to temperature changes. It is important to know that when installing protective insulating glass wool surfaces, it is necessary to work in special gloves and carefully protect the skin and mucous membranes of the eyes and respiratory organs.
  • It is advisable to carry out installation using special glasses.

External insulation using warm plaster

The combination of cement with different fillers is called warm plaster. The main component in combination with cement is most often a lightweight material. For example, vermiculite.

It is possible to use sawdust or foam. As for sawdust, such material is mixed with warm plaster for exterior finishing walls won't do. It's better to use it for internal insulation. Polystyrene foam and other materials (expanded clay chips, pumice in powder form) are optimal for facade finishing.

  • It is important to take into account some properties of the insulator, which must have: low thermal conductivity and moisture and steam permeability. In this case, the heat insulator must be porous, which preserves the breathability of the material.
  • All of the above characteristics are perfectly combined in warm plaster. In addition, it is safe from an environmental point of view, fire-resistant, and durable.
  • Warm plaster is suitable for finishing walls from the outside. At the same time, decor is applied well to the façade, which does not reduce the excellent insulation.

How to apply warm plaster

This material is quickly and efficiently applied to the surface of the walls. Reinforcing mesh is not needed. However, some experts advise using it, arguing that the mesh provides even greater strength and additional warmth.

  • When applying this plaster there is no need to level the walls. The material is very plastic, which makes it possible to “remove” surfaces exclusively with the plaster itself. In addition, the properties of warm plaster allow excellent contact with any other material applied to the facade of the building, which is very important.
  • The technological process of working with warm plaster from actions with traditional types this material is no different. To make the wall especially smooth, at the end of the application procedure the surface can be cleaned and sanded.

In what cases is warm plaster used?

For example, take polystyrene foam. This material is not advisable to use for finishing the walls of premises that are at risk of fire. Such objects include: educational establishments, medical institutions. Expanded polystyrene also promotes the accumulation of moisture indoors.

  • Warm plaster is absolutely non-toxic because it does not emit harmful substances, which cannot be said about polystyrene foam. Warm plaster is not capable of spontaneous combustion, but is vapor permeable. Suitable for insulation and finishing of hospitals, kindergartens.
  • Warm plaster has proven itself well in the design of complex facades. Uneven contours do not show through this cladding, unlike polystyrene coating. Warm plaster not only retains heat in the room, but also gives a beautiful appearance to the building from an aesthetic point of view.
  • This type of insulation is suitable for external design walls, refining and thermal insulation of the floor (this is how the floor covering is prepared for the final stage and at the same time thermal insulation is carried out). Using warm plaster, walls that have chips, cracks, or seams are tidied up. It is also used for installation of roof slabs.

Attention: When insulating walls, you should not lose sight of even a single detail. It is important to take everything into account: purchase reinforcing mesh, paint, dowels. Without this basic list, it is impossible to properly finish the facade.

Reinforcing mesh

To form a base for reinforcement, a glass mesh is suitable. Optimal size cells – 5*5. The weight should reach 200 g/m2.

  • It is mandatory to treat the mesh with a specialized coating that cannot be damaged by an alkaline environment. It is important to take this into account when designing the corners of the building and places where thermal insulation is adjacent to elements of architectural decor: parapets, cornices. In such areas you will need a metal mesh that has good rigidity.
  • In addition, you need a high-quality glue composition. You should not resort to cheap options that differ from those recommended by the manufacturer of the reinforcing mesh, so that you do not have to completely redo the facade of the building.

Plasters

Construction specialists place great demands on plaster, since this material is constantly exposed to strong external influences. These include temperature changes, humidity or excessive dryness of the air. Therefore, the outer surface must withstand all the adversities of the weather.

The main thing is that the plaster is vapor permeable, does not retain moisture and protects the building from the aggressive influence of the external environment.

Paints for facades and decorative plaster are divided into several types:

  1. Based on polymer cement. This material is very vapor permeable. They call it “maximum breathability”. Polymer cement is non-flammable and frost-resistant. It has a coefficient of adhesion of about 1.0 MPa. This type of insulation is good for economical use together with mineral wool or polystyrene.
  2. Acrylic type plaster. This type of insulation is very elastic, but at the same time it is resistant to deformation. Acrylic plasters have proven themselves well in tandem with polystyrene foam because they do not allow moisture to pass through. Even if the climate of the area where this insulation is used is very humid, acrylics absorb water very poorly. Due to this, the wear resistance and durability of the walls on which the insulating material is applied increases. In addition, acrylic plasters can be immediately applied to walls. By the way, they are produced in a fairly rich and varied range of colors.
  3. Silicate plasters. They are no less resistant to deformation than acrylic ones. The properties are similar to them. In addition, walls treated with silicate plaster are practically not subject to contamination, which is convenient when renovating buildings in industrial cities.
  4. It is important to consider texture features plaster. It can be fine or coarse-grained, mosaic.
  5. You need to pay close attention to the order of work. They cannot be carried out at air temperatures below +5°C. In this case, the average daily temperature level should reach only positive values.

Attention: Experts prohibit applying plasters if a strong wind is blowing, or direct sunlight is falling on the walls, or if it is raining. Violation of the application technology will lead to a short service life of the cladding.

Facade paints, like plasters, are wear-resistant. They are great if the climate in the region is hot or too humid. The service life of such material is at least 30 years.

This applies to paints based on silicone resins. Polyurea paints last for half a century. If you choose and apply the paint for the cladding correctly, you don’t have to worry about new paint for quite a long time.

External thermal insulation of wooden houses

Wooden construction has long earned the reputation of being the most environmentally friendly material. To insulate such structures, insulation with ventilation properties is necessary. It will be necessary to protect the tree from unfavorable external environmental conditions. It is also worth considering that you need to leave a small niche between the sheathing and the insulation.

Thermal insulation installation process

The wooden structure is insulated using the following components:

  1. Frame design.
  2. Indoor cladding.
  3. Vapor barrier.
  4. Insulation.
  5. Wind protection.
  6. Niche for ventilation.
  7. External cladding.

Before starting work, you need to apply an antiseptic solution and fire retardant to the walls.

This drug prevents fire:

  • If there are gaps, you need to close them. Then a sheathing is placed on the surface. It requires bars pre-impregnated with an antiseptic to prevent infection. mold fungus. The beams are made at least 5 cm thick. They should be 2 centimeters thicker than the insulation in width.
  • Between the beams it is necessary to leave exactly as many centimeters as the width of the insulation slab. The insulation will fill the gaps between the joists.
  • Once all the niches are filled, the sheathing is installed using anchors.

Vapor barrier

Before laying the insulation, you need to make a layer of vapor barrier. The choice of this type of material is made based on the type of structure or installation method.

Vapor barrier materials come in several types:

  1. Aluminum foil.
  2. A polyethylene mesh covered with film.
  3. Specialized paper coated with polymer.
  4. Paper coated with aluminum foil.
  5. Fabric laminated on both sides.

Installation of vapor barrier is carried out in any of the ways, be it vertical or horizontal application. Installed using a stapler.

Attention: You should carefully ensure that all seams are sealed and the film is not torn anywhere. Otherwise, steam will penetrate inside and turn into water droplets. Its accumulation is a favorable environment for mold to appear.

  • The seams between pieces of vapor barrier must be well sealed. This is done with a special type of tape, which is made from butyl rubber. There is an option to lay the insulation plates overlapping.
  • The next process is to install insulation. The slabs are placed from bottom to top. Thermal insulation is secured using a mushroom dowel. A waterproofing consisting of a membrane is mounted onto the insulation using a stapler. For waterproofing, choose a film coated with aluminum or based on kraft paper with various impregnations.
  • It is important to take into account the location of the front and back sides in order to prevent moisture from passing through and, as a result, dampening.
  • Finally, the timber is attached and the surface of the walls is covered. To do this, choose plastic siding or other materials for the facade. It is important to leave a small gap between the waterproofing and the cladding. Approximately 3-4 cm.

Installing thermal insulation on external walls is not so simple. But without a doubt you can do it yourself. You have instructions for each type of material. Do everything according to the proposed rules and thermal insulation of the walls outside will make your life much warmer.

Nowadays, none of the owners of private houses need to be convinced of how important it is to insulate the walls from the outside. And it is best to insulate the walls of houses during construction, when access to all structures is open from all sides. Then you can arrange thermal insulation by the most the right way- from the outside, from the very foundation and basement to the roof of the building.

But, considering how much it costs to carry out this work, many homeowners insulate their homes themselves in order to save money, because in reality the technology of the process is not so complicated. The purpose of this article is to talk about the best way to sheathe walls and how you can properly do the external insulation of a house with your own hands.

Choice of insulation

The list of thermal insulation materials used as external cladding of enclosing structures of private houses cannot be called large. And if you also take into account the cost of these materials and choose which is cheaper to produce insulation, then the list is completely reduced to several positions:

  • mineral wool (stone, basalt) in slabs and rolls;
  • fiberglass-based mineral wool in rolls;
  • foamed polystyrene boards (foam plastic);
  • slabs made of extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex).

Note. Listed here are the most popular and inexpensive materials used for exterior wall insulation. In addition to them, there is also ecowool, made from waste paper, and sprayed polyurethane foam. But these are more expensive insulation materials, and besides, you won’t be able to apply polyurethane foam yourself; this requires special units.

From the point of view of fire safety and rodent resistance, the best option is thermal insulation of walls with mineral wool based on basalt fiber. The material does not burn at all and can easily withstand temperatures up to 600 °C, which is why it is used for insulating various chimneys, both brick and metal. Mice do not like mineral wool, unlike ecowool and polystyrene foam, and therefore the owner of a country house in a rural area can be calm about the safety of the insulation.

For reference. It is for these reasons that in frame houses the technology of insulation with mineral wool is provided, since it is part of outer wall, as shown in the diagram:


Thermal insulation performance basalt wool quite high, although slightly worse than those of foamed polymers. But not this the main problem of this material, its primary enemy is moisture. Due to open pores, any mineral wool has high vapor permeability, which means it needs protection from moisture and good ventilation to remove steam.


Rolled glass wool has the same qualities, except fireproof. Its temperature limit is only 200 °C, so glass wool cannot withstand fire. By the way, roll materials are not the most the best choice for external insulation of the house, since it tends to slide down and become confused as it gets wet. Of course, over time, the moisture leaves, but the insulation will not return to its designed position and entire uninsulated clearings will appear under the finishing, invisible to the eye.

About foamed polymers

Most cheap material, which is used to insulate a house from the outside, is polystyrene foam, which is also the most popular. It has a higher thermal resistance than cotton wool and is almost impervious to moisture, while being very lightweight. This is understandable, because the polymer consists of closed pores filled with air. Its serious drawback is flammability, which should be taken into account when starting to insulate walls.


The question often comes up on the Internet: is it even possible to insulate residential buildings, including wooden ones, with polystyrene foam? We will present the answer using the example of panel houses assembled from multilayer elements - thermal timber and SIP panels. In these elements, the insulating layer of foam is part of the outer wall, only on both sides it is protected by cladding made of wood or OSB plywood, as shown in the photo below. That is, it is possible to insulate the facade, including a panel house, with this polymer, especially from the outside, but this must be done wisely.


Regarding the question of which foam plastic is best for sheathing the enclosing structures of a residential building or cottage. The most popular material has a density of 25 kg/m3, it is quite warm and at the same time durable. There is also polystyrene with a density of 15 and 35 kg/m3, but the first is rarely used due to fragility, and the second because high cost. True, greater density is needed when the structure experiences mechanical loads, for example, during thermal insulation of floors.


The “brother” of polystyrene foam - extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex) does not allow moisture to pass through at all, and it resists the penetration of heat more successfully. Therefore, to insulate the same stone house, a layer of penoplex will be required less than the materials listed earlier. Expanded polystyrene, like mineral wool, is not to the taste of rodents, while in an unprotected foam insulation mice love to make nests. Like any polymer, the “extruder” is flammable and therefore needs protection from high temperatures.

Calculation of insulation thickness

Ideally, the thickness should be calculated depending on the materials from which the enclosing structures are constructed and the region of residence. If we take the same region, then the thickness of the thermal insulation for concrete or cinder block walls will be greater, and for a house made of aerated concrete or foam blocks - less. That is, a lot depends on what thermal insulation properties the material of the block house has.

Advice. To do external insulation correctly, you need to work hard and find the thermal conductivity coefficient of your building materials in reference books or on the Internet and calculate the thickness of the insulation.

A fairly accurate calculation can be made based on table data reflecting regulatory requirements for the thermal resistance of walls in different regions of the Russian Federation. For example, knowing that in Kazan this resistance R should be 3.3 m2 °C/W, you need to calculate how much a regular 250 mm brick wall will give and then add the required thickness of thermal insulation. The resistance of a brick wall is 0.187 m2 °C/W (following table), subtract this number from the total figure: 3.3 – 0.187 = 3.113 m2 °C/W.


The thermal conductivity coefficient of foam plastic is λ = 0.037 W/m2 °C (reference data), we substitute it into the formula for determining the thickness along with the required heat transfer resistance:
δ = R x λ = 3.113 x 0.037 = 0.115 m

It turns out that in Kazan to regular wall At least 115 mm of polystyrene foam must be added to 1 brick for minimal thermal insulation, and for good insulation - 150 mm. Using this method, the thickness of insulation in any house made of logs, blocks or timber in combination with any thermal insulation material is calculated.

External insulation of walls of a brick house

For permanent residential buildings with brick, stone or concrete walls, there are two generally accepted methods of external insulation:

  • technology associated with wet processes involves the use of building mixtures and decorative plasters;
  • Mechanical fastening of the material to the facade is done under siding, block house or other types of finishing.

"Wet" insulation brick house it is more difficult to perform, as it requires some skills, so not everyone can do it with their own hands. In this case, both polystyrene foam and mineral wool are used, only the adhesive mixture for them also needs a different one. Well-known manufacturers, such as CERESIT, sell complete sets of insulation and finishing materials for thermal insulation of facades in one way or another.


The essence of the technique is as follows. First, a layer of deep penetration primer is applied to cleaned and leveled surfaces, and after it dries, slab insulation is glued; rolled insulation is not suitable here. Since the slopes plastic windows houses also need to be insulated, then insulating material is glued to them, the thickness of which is half that of the wall layer. After 2 days, the insulation is fixed mechanically using special dowel umbrellas.

Note. For panel apartment buildings and large cottages where there are balconies, the technology is preserved under one condition. The balcony parapet must be solid so that thermal insulation boards can be glued to it. Otherwise, the parapet will have to be built from foam or gas blocks, or this technique will have to be abandoned.


On all surfaces, including window slopes, a reinforcing fiberglass mesh is applied simultaneously with a layer of adhesive mixture up to 5 mm thick. This layer is waterproofing, and after it a decorative plaster layer with texture (bark beetle, shagreen, etc.) is applied. Only before this, the hardened glue is again treated with a primer. And the last step is painting, although you don’t have to do it, just add the required color to the plaster.


Wet thermal insulation does not provide any vapor barrier, leaving the thickness of the house wall permeable to vapor. On the other hand, the outer layer of the adhesive mixture is waterproofing, protecting the insulation from direct contact with water. The technology is applicable to the external walls of the house and basement (only without decorative plaster); it will not be possible to insulate an attic or roof in the same way. Insulation from the inside is more appropriate there.

The second method of insulation is used for both brick and wooden log and timber houses, so it will be discussed in the next section. More details about “wet” thermal insulation of residential buildings are described in the video:

External insulation of a wooden house made of timber

Before you begin covering a log house or log house, you should carefully prepare the surface. This is especially true for old log walls, which need to be caulked in order to close all the cracks. For obvious reasons, perform insulation wooden house it is impossible to do it from the outside using a “wet” method, so timber sheathing is attached to the walls. Its width should be equal to the thickness of the insulation. The interval between the beams is also selected depending on the width of the roll or thermal insulation slab.

For reference. Sometimes it happens that before insulating the external structures of a log house, it is necessary to cut off the protruding crowns of logs at the corners of the house. Bypassing them with a system of slats and finishing is very problematic.

A vapor barrier is laid under the beams over the entire area of ​​the house wall - dense polyethylene film. At the joints, the film is placed with an overlap of at least 100 mm, after which it is taped along the entire length with construction tape. It’s good when the joint falls under the sheathing beam, then it is additionally pressed against the surface.


At the next stage, insulation is laid between the slats and fixed in a convenient way, using the same dowel umbrellas, only plastic ones. After which the film is stretched over the entire area again, but not the usual one, but one that allows vapors to pass through. It is called a diffusion membrane and protects the thermal insulation from wind and direct ingress of water (wind-hydrobarrier). In this case, the water vapor formed in the insulation from the appearance of the dew point has the opportunity to escape through the membrane to the outside.

In order to ensure the removal of moisture from the outer part of the membrane, a vent is installed between it and the lining - a ventilated air layer. To do this, the wind barrier film (membrane) is nailed to the sheathing bars with strips 3-5 cm wide, and siding or block house is attached to them. By the way, the walls of the attic are sheathed in a similar way, only on the inside. What a proper insulation pie, installed with your own hands, looks like is shown in the diagram:

Conclusion

The conclusion that arises from all of the above is this: for external insulation of private houses, you should not use rolled mineral wool insulation and low-density polystyrene foam (below 25 kg/m3). The best option remains - mineral wool and polymers in slabs. As for thermal insulation methods, it is better to insulate permanent stone buildings using the technology of applying plaster, and leave the wooden sheathing for wooden houses, including country houses.