External or internal insulation of the bathhouse is mandatory. This reduces fuel consumption and slows down the cooling process of indoor air. If the structure is not insulated, then it will take several times longer to heat the steam room to the desired temperature.
We insulate the bathhouse with our own hands
Before constructing a building, it is necessary to calculate the means and forces for thermal insulation. It is best if the insulation process begins during construction, more precisely, from laying the foundation.
Basic requirements for materials for bath insulation
Cheap solutions (impregnations, septic tanks) will not fulfill the role of good thermal insulation. Of course, protection from moisture is necessary in any case, but this is a separate task. It is necessary to insulate the bathhouse premises separately, using materials specially created for this purpose. Most attention is usually paid to the inside of the washroom and steam room. The selection of insulation and thermal insulation is done taking into account the rough building material.
One of the most important requirements for insulation materials is non-toxicity. Because in a bathhouse under the influence of temperatures, toxic materials can easily cause poisoning. Non-hygroscopicity is also important; insulation should under no circumstances absorb moisture.
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When choosing a specific material, you need to rely on the following characteristics:
- resistance to steam and high temperatures;
- good fire-fighting properties;
- environmental friendliness;
- low hygroscopicity;
- ability to maintain shape for a long period.
Types of insulation for baths
All insulation materials presented on the construction markets are divided into three conditional groups:
Of course, 50–60 years ago they used only natural materials that were brought from nearby forests. This is foam, tow or moss. Today these are already partly elite types of insulation; they cost serious money due to the need to collect them manually. Many fans of natural materials insulate their buildings with rolled jute felt or tow. This material can be purchased at construction stores. When it comes to moss, there are conflicting opinions regarding its use. They say that moss is not an ideal material for insulation because it encourages the growth of mold or fungi. However, the moss itself does not have such properties; most likely, the fungus is formed due to improper cutting of a wooden structure or poor ventilation.
How to work with different types of buildings
The installation procedure and the required amount of work depend on the material from which the bathhouse is built.
Insulation of log houses
When working with timber or logs, you need to take into account the drying time, which can be 10 cm or more. Plus, cracks form between the crowns of such buildings, and cold air blows into them. It is best to insulate a log house made of round timber or an assembly of timber with jute fiber.
This material does not rot and has excellent thermal conductivity. Jute itself is a very fragile material, so manufacturers try to add flax fibers to it. But if you already have crumbly material, you can perform classic caulking. It will be so less work, and the building will probably retain more heat.
If you decide to create a bathhouse from wood, then the insulation is laid during construction. It is better to isolate all problematic parts of the log house in the process.
The work is performed in the following sequence:
Insulation of buildings made of brick or foam blocks
If log houses are insulated using a primitive method, then you will have to work hard with the masonry. And there are more financial investments specifically for working with insulation. Additional thermal insulation is necessary, otherwise a well-heated room will cool down within hours. It’s better to work and invest in materials than to stock up on fuel the rest of the time.
A common and proven method is a suspended ventilated façade. The work process does not take place from the inside, but from the outside of the bathhouse. It is necessary to attach layers of insulation to the walls, and cover the top with siding or clapboard. In the gap between the layers, a space is formed filled with air, thanks to which condensation will not form on the walls and rotting and dampness will not follow.
The width of the frame for the ventilated facade is made larger than the thickness of the insulation, so an air gap is formed inside, preventing the formation of condensation
For a brick building, the following trick is often practiced: a steam room is made of wood inside the room. Brick absorbs heat for a very long time, so it is easier to warm a small steam room naturally if you use a small frame.
A 10x10 beam and sheathing are enough. The process of insulating such an improvised steam room inside a large bathhouse is simple:
You can make it even simpler: do not use timber, but instead immediately attach the insulation to the frame. In this case, an additional layer of waterproofing will be required.
Calculation and selection of materials and tools
We insulate all surfaces of the steam room, wash room and dressing room. And for this you will need:
- Roll paper (for ceiling and walls).
- Beam-rail (5x5, for installing insulation on the ceiling and walls).
- Foil.
- Insulating tape.
- Self-tapping screws.
- Aluminum adhesive tape.
- Insulation calculated based on the area of walls, ceilings and floors.
Tools you will need:
- screwdriver;
- level and plumb.
Do-it-yourself insulation of a bathhouse
Any stages of insulation are always carried out according to the golden rule - start from the ceiling and end with the floors.
Ceiling insulation
Before you start working with the ceiling, you need to understand that in the steam room you need 2 times more material. After all, we are not working on a sauna, but on a Russian bathhouse, where the steam should linger as long as possible.
The technology is like this:
- We cover the entire surface of the ceiling with overlapping roll paper.
- We fix the bars on top of the paper, the insulation will already lie between them.
- Cover it all with foil. It will become a normal, safe insulator. But it is necessary to install foil without saving. It is important that all connections are closed.
The foil layer reflects heat, so the use of such material for a bath is necessary
- We seal all joints on the foil with aluminum tape. Typically, foil for insulation is included with the material.
- We secure the edges and joints with several layers of adhesive tape. We check our work for leaks. If there is not enough money for such insulation, then the foil is sometimes replaced with cardboard or thick paper without paint.
- Next, we install layers of insulation on the foil between the closed bars.
On the ceiling, it is better to lay insulation in two or three layers, overlapping the joints
- We cover the front part of the ceiling with wood paneling. This material is resistant to elevated temperatures and will not resin.
For a frame bathhouse, it is necessary to put insulation on the ceiling and walls, but for timber and log baths you can do without it. For example, if a bathhouse is made of logs, it is enough to first sew up its ceiling with thick boards - at least 6 cm. Mineral wool is most suitable as insulation for the ceiling - you just need to lay it in a layer of at least 15 cm.
Video: insulation and finishing of the ceiling from the inside
Wall insulation
The best solution for wall insulation is a constructor made from materials that can be easily repaired or replaced.
The structure of the bathhouse wall insulation resembles the structure of a roofing pie
Video: insulation and foil upholstery of a steam room
Bathroom floor insulation
And finally, let's work on the floor. After all, a large amount of heated air usually leaves the room through it. Expanded clay is most often used as insulation for floors - it is an inexpensive and reliable insulation that prevents the formation of mold and condensation.
It’s cheaper, of course, to spill everything with slag, but expanded clay is more environmentally friendly and weighs less. When installing wooden floors, the material is placed between the joists. If a concrete floor is poured, then expanded clay is laid between each concrete layer.
Let's look at the usual cycle of work on insulating a concrete floor.
Video: features of installing a concrete floor in a bathhouse
In addition to walls, floors and ceilings, attention is also paid to the insulation of doors, windows and window openings. They are being processed silicone sealants. External doors are usually insulated with natural materials. And it’s not customary to save on them, otherwise in a few years, or even next season, you’ll have to redo everything.
Questions about how to insulate a bathhouse from the outside or inside, and how to do it correctly, have already given many sleepless nights to many owners of private households. After all, it’s no secret that in order to fully enjoy your vacation, inside a building you need an easily created and maintained microclimate that is optimal for each room. To a greater extent, it will depend on the thermophysical properties of the enclosing structures. For example, a steam room should not only heat up quickly, but also maintain the set temperature parameters for as long as possible. At the same time, you could calmly be in the rest room, covering yourself with only a towel. And even if you install a super-powerful heat generator, burn exorbitant amounts of fuel or spend extra tens of kilowatts of electricity, and leave the walls “cold” - with high degree heat transfer, then there will always be unpleasant drafts inside the structure.
In this article, we will look at the most practical ways to insulate a bathhouse from the outside with your own hands, in which cases they are preferable to the inside, and also dispel some misconceptions on these issues. Read about thermal protection technologies from the inside on our website
Picture 1
When is it necessary to insulate a bathhouse from the outside?
By general rule To improve the thermophysical properties of household buildings, effective thermal insulation should be placed outside. What is the reason for this requirement? The fact is that water vapor migrating through the walls to the street, when the temperature drops, condenses in the thickness of the structures, and in winter it generally turns into ice. Neither wood nor stone materials can withstand such exposure - the former rot, and the latter defrost and crumble. Therefore, the thermophysical system must function in such a way that:
- ensure the operation of walls at positive temperatures;
- prevent moisture from getting into them.
In practice, the best fulfillment of the first condition is easier to achieve by installing an external heat shield. That is, the walls in the bathhouse will be located away from the street behind a layer of thermal insulation - in a warm zone. However, we still have the factor of high humidity, and extreme temperatures (in the steam room) should also be taken into account. Therefore perhaps ideal solution the bathhouse will be insulated from the outside, with the creation of a high-quality reflective internal vapor barrier made of rolled foil or foil paper (Fig. 2).
Why is it possible? Firstly, the efficiency of a thermal insulation system depends on the competent selection of source materials for it and compliance with the technology for their installation. Secondly, there is also a practical aspect of insulating the walls of a bathhouse, associated with the mode of its operation, which even experienced builders rarely take into account.
Figure 2 The influence of the mode of use of the bath on the design of the thermal insulation system
Internal thermal protection will reduce the preparation time for hygiene procedures. After all, the walls are practically located outside the energy contour of the building, so there is no need to warm them up. Air masses in a closed volume are quickly brought to the required temperature by a heat generator, even the most low power. On the contrary, covering the outside of the bathhouse with insulation leads to the fact that the walls also have to be heated. This is more expensive at the initial stage, but allows you to level out short-term temperature fluctuations. Simply put, arrays of enclosing structures participating in energy exchange increase the comfort of using the bathhouse structure.
From the above we can conclude that the owner of a private building, when deciding how to insulate a bathhouse, can choose the internal option for its irregular use. For buildings that are constantly heated, as well as those in which several people steam at once, it is better to consider installing energy-saving outdoor cladding.
We select materials
Today, many effective thermal insulation materials have already been created with similar thermal conductivity coefficients λ = 0.03-0.04 W/m*C. This is where their similarities sometimes end, since there are a number of other important parameters, on which the technologies of their application depend. The most important characteristic for insulating bathhouse walls from the outside, the vapor permeability coefficient is also used (μ, mg/m*h*Pa). After all, no matter how good a vapor barrier you make, moist air will find ways to migrate through the walls to the outside. Therefore, steam must be able to freely evaporate into the atmosphere without accumulating inside walls or insulating material. Otherwise, accumulation of dampness cannot be avoided, which can lead to damage and destruction of both the wall itself and the thermal insulation. To avoid this, you should follow two rules:
- Minimize the amount of migrating steam through the building envelope. The solution is to install a high-quality insulating membrane from the inside of the building and arrange effective ventilation of the premises.
- Providing conditions for free diffusion of steam. Solution - materials are selected according to the condition that their coefficient μ increases towards the outer surface of the building.
Figure 3 Is it possible to insulate a bathhouse with foam plastic from the outside?
Even if we do not take into account the low environmental performance of expanded polystyrene (EPS, EPS) and its fire hazard, then installing such slabs on walls almost completely blocks the migration of moisture. In addition, insulating a bathhouse with foam plastic violates the principle of the ratio of the coefficient μ between the internal and external layers. Paying attention to the data from Table 1 for the most likely combinations of materials, it becomes clear that the steam simply will not have time to erode through the sheathing slabs.
As a result, condensation will begin to accumulate on the outer boundary surface of the wall, with all the ensuing (literally and figuratively) negative consequences.
Table 1.
| Popular wall and insulation materials | Vapor permeability coefficient μ, mg/m*h*Pa |
| PPS (density 10-38 kg/m 3) | 0,05 |
| EPPS | 0,001-0,005 |
| Minvata | 0,3-0,55 |
| Ecowool | 0,3-0,67 |
| Pine log | 0,06 |
| Brick | 0,11-0,14 |
| Foam and aerated concrete | 0,11-0,23 |
From the same table 1, it is obvious that whether it is insulation wooden bath, brick or foam blocks, increasing the coefficient of vapor permeability to the outside is possible if you cover the enclosing structures with mineral wool or ecowool. Then, all the steam that has penetrated into the layer of thermal insulation from the walls will have time to erode.
Figure 4 How is a bathhouse insulated from the outside?
General requirements
When thinking through the design of a future energy screen, it is not enough to simply select an effective heat-insulating material; you also need to correctly assemble a heat-insulating system based on it. Sometimes it is called a “pie”, meaning only the outer layers. However, the thermal contour system of a building when insulating a bathhouse from the outside consists of all layers, starting with the interior finishing and ending with the façade (Fig. 5). Understanding the individual functionality and requirements for each of them contributes to the practical success of the event as a whole.
Vapor barrier
Load-bearing enclosing structure (Fig. 5)
Regardless of the material, it must comply as much as possible with airtightness. Therefore, all possible places for blowing cracks, cracks, and joints are sealed.
Thermal insulation layer
Its fit to the wall should be tight, eliminating air pockets. The presence of such cavities contributes to a significant reduction in the energy-saving effect due to blowing and the formation of condensation. The same requirement applies to the joining of individual elements of the material - its slabs or strips.
Wind protection for insulation for bath walls
Prevents wind erosion of thermal insulation, as well as the penetration of cold air currents into the thickness of the material.
Ventilated gaps
There can be wind protection on both sides or only on the outer side, which is dictated by the properties of the films being mounted. They ensure the removal of moisture both migrating from the premises through the walls and entering from the outside through possible defects or damage facade cladding.
Facade cladding
Its functions are protective and decorative. It protects all internal layers from natural factors (UV radiation, precipitation, wind), as well as artificial mechanical influences.
Figure 5 It is worth adding that Figure 5 shows how to insulate a wooden bathhouse using ventilated facade technology. For walls made of brick or aerated concrete blocks, the scheme will be similar. In addition, the energy-saving system technology is in no way inferior in its thermophysical properties wet facade(Fig. 6). In this case, the functions of wind, hydro, mechanical protection and decorative coating are assigned to special vapor-permeable plasters. Nevertheless, for bathhouses built from wood materials, which are the majority in Russia, a ventilated coating is still preferable.
Figure 6 Practical aspects of insulating a bathhouse from the outside with your own hands
By choosing to manufacture an external heat shield with a ventilated gap, you get a reliable, durable façade system. If you show maximum care and use only materials recommended for these types of work, then the exterior of your building will delight you for many years, and it will not require repairs.
So, let’s look at the practical aspects of how to insulate a bathhouse from the outside with your own hands. We believe that the internal vapor barrier layer has already been installed or will be installed at the stage of cladding the premises.
Walls
Walls made of brick or other block building materials are inspected for cracks or voids in the seams, which should be additionally strengthened with mortar (rubbed, embroidered). It’s even better if the sides of the rooms are completely covered with a layer of vapor-proof plaster.
Figure 7 According to classical technology, insulation of walls in a bathhouse, the frame of which is made of logs or timber, begins with caulking with tow, flax strands, jute or other natural materials (Fig. 7). It is best to perform the operation after the complete shrinkage of the structure, which depends on the timing of the initial moisture content of the wood (can last for several years). Otherwise, cracks will still appear, and eliminate them under the inner and external cladding It will already be problematic.
Figure 8 There is also more modern way sealing inter-crown and other cracks using sealants. For bathhouse walls made of wood with normal humidity, it can be used almost immediately after their construction, but “raw” log houses should still be allowed to stand for at least six months. Usually they wait out the winter, and closer to summer they begin to process the seams.
This type of sealing, unlike the classical one, guarantees stable functionality regardless of the occurrence of multidirectional deformations of the wood. Synthetic sealants have good adhesion to the substrate and work for both compression and elongation up to 300%. Before using them, the seams of the bathhouse walls from the outside are primed and sealed with a cord made of extruded polyethylene foam. The method of laying the sealant depends on its packaging. The most convenient way is tape - the protective film is removed from it, it is placed in the seam and rolled with a roller. If you purchased the composition in tubes for mounting gun(Fig. 8) or buckets, then after application it still needs to be smoothed with a spatula (Fig. 9).
Figure 9 Energy saving screen frame
Insulating baths on the outer surface of the walls using mineral wool or ecowool requires the installation of a frame support. Initially, it will serve to securely attach a layer of effective thermal insulation to the enclosing structures, and then to fix the wind barrier and install the façade cladding. The frame can consist of one (Fig. 10, b) or two tiers. The second type with a cross arrangement of layers provides the best thermal protection characteristics (Fig. 10, c).
Lathing
The guides in the tiers are smooth, planed, well-dried bars or boards (items 3 and 6), treated with wood compounds with antiseptic, hydrophobic and fire-retardant effects. Their cross-section will depend on the tiers, the method of attachment to the wall, as well as the thickness of the thermal insulation (Fig. 10, b, c, d). Typically, bars or boards with a thickness of 25-50 mm are used.
To create ventilated insulation of a bathhouse from the outside, you can also use a supporting system based on metal profiles– galvanized, aluminum or even stainless. However, such designs (especially two the latter type) are much more expensive, so small private developers often prefer guides made of lumber.
The pitch of the frame elements, both the main one and for the façade body kit, is taken based on the dimensions of the thermal insulation (item 4), as well as the installation requirements for the protective and decorative coating with which you plan to cover the outside of the bathhouse. For dense laying of mineral wool, the distance between the guides is calculated as the width of the sheets of material minus 15-20 mm. For example, for a sheet with a width of 610 mm it will be 590-595 mm. It is convenient to cut rolls with a width of 1200 mm lengthwise; in this case, the gap between the beams is taken to be 580-585 mm.
Fastenings
Sheathing elements for established buildings can be secured to rigid metal brackets or bars (item 7). At the same time, for log houses (even after their shrinkage is completed), it is still recommended to fix the vertical guides using the floating method. Its meaning is that the system facade insulation baths should not absorb loads arising from deformation of the walls. To do this, the vertical guides (item 3) are fixed rigidly at the bottom, and further along the length in one of three ways:
- longitudinal through grooves about 200 mm long are cut out in the sheathing beams, through which self-tapping screws with washers are inserted and screwed into the wall or into horizontal guides;
- fastening is carried out through brackets with slot-shaped holes;
- U-shaped clamps are used in which the vertical frame elements can slide freely.
For two-tier insulation of a wooden bath, if the starting the bars are placedhorizontally (item 6), then they are always attached rigidly to the walls, since for the first layer of mineral wool a slight compression is not dangerous.
Figure 10 Thermal insulating layer
The principles for choosing the type of thermal insulation have already been discussed above, in the section “Selecting materials”. If you give preference to ecowool, then, although it is an effective material, you will have to involve third-party specialists who have the appropriate equipment for applying it under pressure. The existing alternative method of free backfilling of ecowool is not the most good decision for walls, since its column becomes compacted over time and subsides, which leads to a violation of the integrity of the thermal contour of the building. Therefore, it is easier to organize the insulation of a bathhouse with your own hands using mineral wool products made from glass or stone fiber.
Attention! When purchasing such products, you should carefully familiarize yourself with the scope of their application. For example, it may be intended to solve problems of acoustics or fire protection, while its thermal resistance will be inferior to the corresponding profile materials.
Mineral producers thermal insulation wool They produce both standard or universal versions, as well as specialized products for assembling ventilated facades. Narrow-profile products can have useful advantages:
- tongue-and-groove locks along the perimeter of the slabs, simplifying the insulation of bathhouse walls, and also eliminating air circulation at the joints, even with a single-layer placement;
- fiberglass coating, which reduces the movement of convective flows through the insulating layer;
- additional hydrophobic impregnation, due to which the droplet liquid is not held between the fibers, but flows down freely.
Universal or specialized mineral wool used for façade systems of utility buildings must have a density of at least 35-40 kg/m3. With a decrease in this parameter, heat transfer in all its forms increases: convection, thermal conductivity and radiation. Maximum density for reasons of profitability,usually choose no higher than 80 kg/m 3 , since heavier and more expensive products are used already in industry.
Fixation of insulation boards on the walls of the bathhouse is carried out due to their tight fit in the frame of the sheathing and point compression with disc-shaped dowels (Fig. 10. Item 5).
Figure 11 Wind protection and ventilation gap
The windproof fabric (Fig. 11) is fixed on the vertical elements of the supporting frame (Fig. 10, item 3), with remote ventilated gap slats (lathing for installation of the cladding, Fig. 5). In this case, preference should be given to special vapor-permeable wind-moisture-proof membranes, which are rolled directly over the layer of insulation for the bath.
Important! For such installation, the use of roofing felt, PE films and other sealed materials is not allowed. The vapor permeability of the wind barrier should be at least 700-800 g*/m2 per day.
The joints of the strips are glued with tape intended for such work. average value the overlap of adjacent panels is 15 cm, and the width of the ventilation gap between them and the cladding ranges from 2 cm to 5 cm (the parameters are set by the manufacturer).
Facade cladding
One of the main advantages of ventilated facades is that, regardless of the type of building frame and its condition, you can sheathe the outside of the bathhouse with one of the materials available on the construction market in a wide range. This can be vinyl or metal siding, lining, block house, fiber cement board, or other hanging cladding. This type of finishing is installed according to similar schemes, the main uniqueness of which is dictated by the dimension of the spacer sheathing step. For example, for vinyl siding it is about 40 cm.
Figure 12 External insulation of a bathhouse using a ventilated facade system allows not only to solve energy saving issues for new buildings, it can radically change the aesthetic characteristics of even a dilapidated building, practically providing it with a new life.
In order for the temperature in the bathhouse to be maintained for as long as possible, and the costs of maintaining it to be as low as possible, bathhouses need external insulation. In addition to solving this problem, external insulation also protects the building from direct contact with cold air and precipitation, which extends the life of the building.
The order and sequence of work on external insulation depends on the type of material used for construction. For bathhouses made of logs - rounded or simply sanded - this usually involves careful sealing of all cracks and cracks: wood of sufficient thickness holds heat well on its own. Sometimes the steam room and washing room are insulated from the inside.
If timber is used during construction, it most likely needs to be insulated, but how depends on its thickness and region (you need to know how severe the winters are). It is imperative to insulate baths built from bricks and building blocks - they have high thermal conductivity and to ensure the necessary temperature regime The wall thickness must be at least 80cm, which is very unprofitable from an economic point of view. That’s why such baths are always insulated.
How to insulate a log sauna from the outside
Almost all insulation of a log bath comes down to carefully sealing the cracks. Even during construction, a special jute insulation was laid between the crowns, but over time the wood dries out, cracks, and new cracks form, which need to be caulked regularly.
After erecting the frame and caulking the cracks, the building must remain under the roof for at least six months. It is advisable not to use the bathhouse during this time. The log house will shrink, the wood will dry out, and new cracks and gaps will appear. These are the ones that need to be caulked. For this purpose, a special insulation based on jute and flax is used. Jute itself conducts heat poorly and does not burn, but its disadvantage is low elasticity (it tears easily). To solve this problem, flax fibers are added to the insulation for log houses. Thin strips of material are driven into the cracks using a hammer and a special metal caulking blade. This must be done carefully to prevent distortion of the structure.
There is also a special sealant for sealing cracks in wooden buildings. It’s easier to work with: a special syringe fills all available voids.
A log house shrinks within two years. At this time, it is not recommended to cover it with finishing materials. This way you will have access to newly appearing cracks that need to be periodically sealed from the inside and outside. To protect the insulation from exposure atmospheric precipitation, the outside of the building can be covered with film, securing it with strips.
Two years after construction, you can begin finishing. For many this will sound ridiculous, but structures made of logs can be sheathed with a block house, clapboard, imitation timber, or dies. To begin with, a sheathing is mounted on the wall (if it is made of wood, it must be treated with antibacterial impregnations and increases resistance to fire), which is checked for verticality and horizontality using a building level.
Attached to the sheathing finishing material, which is then coated with varnish or other protective compounds. If you choose metal guides, they are mounted on special hangers.
Insulation on the outside of a log bath is almost never used, and the inside is only sometimes additionally insulated in the steam room and washing room. If you decide to play it safe and insulate the building, if the insulation is afraid of moisture, a vapor or water barrier is laid on top of it. It is secured using strips, onto which the trim is subsequently attached.
Insulation of a bathhouse made of timber from the outside
The insulation of a bathhouse made of timber from the outside is absolutely no different from the insulation of a bathhouse made of logs. The building must also stand, cracks also appear in it, which are sealed in the same way.
The need for external insulation depends on the thickness of the timber. If its thickness is insufficient for your climate zone, insulation will need to be done according to the following scheme:
- lathing made of timber or metal guides (be sure to align them in both horizontal and vertical planes);
- heat insulator (thickness depends on the climate zone, wall thickness, and type of thermal insulation);
- moisture and wind protection;
- counter lathing (not necessary, but between protective film and finishing materials should leave a gap);
- Decoration Materials.
The outside of a bathhouse is usually sheathed from timber: any type of clapboard, edged boards, siding, metal profiles, block house, etc. After completion of work wood trim coated with varnishes for exterior use, sometimes pre-treated with coloring pigments, but many modern compositions also have a tinting effect, which, of course, is convenient.
If siding is used as a finishing material, then the presence of a ventilation gap between the insulation and the finishing is mandatory. In this case, it is advisable to use special guides as lathing, which can be purchased in the same place where siding is purchased. The guides are mounted on special hangers.
Insulation of a brick bathhouse from the outside
It is imperative to insulate a brick bathhouse from the outside - this material has high thermal conductivity, so without external insulation it will be extremely difficult to warm the room to the required conditions. The sequence of insulation is the same: frame, insulation, moisture and wind insulation, ventilation gap, sheathing.
For external insulation, it is usually recommended to use mineral wool. According to recent studies, they are not suitable for internal insulation of a bathhouse - they emit formaldehyde, and for external insulation - one of best options. You can also insulate a brick bathhouse from the outside with polystyrene foam boards, polystyrene foam (it is cheaper, but polystyrene is more durable), foam glass (its disadvantage is its high price). To ensure high-quality work, it is recommended to lay two layers intercut (offset by half the length) to reduce heat loss by overlapping the seams. But this method takes more time, and it takes twice as much materials for insulation. Therefore, most often, insulation is done in one layer, tightly laying one mat to another, and the joints are taped with reinforced tape.
To cover the outside of a brick bathhouse, you can use wooden finishing materials or siding. There is another option exterior finishing: You can decorate the outside of the bathhouse with plaster. This is possible if polystyrene boards, foam glass or foam plastic were used as insulation. Then a reinforcing mesh is placed on top of this material, a primer is applied, and then the walls are plastered.
You can insulate a brick bathhouse using the type of ventilated facade. In this case, special L-shaped brackets are attached to the wall (the installation step is 1 cm less than the width of the insulation), between which mats or insulation boards are tightly installed.
For reliability, they can be reinforced with special dowels, but this is not necessary - the material itself must hold quite firmly (that’s why they make the fastening step of the guides 1 cm less than the width of the insulation - it is held in place by elastic force). The joints of the slabs are glued with reinforced tape, or treated with special glue, a waterproofing film is laid on top, and secured with strips. Now guides are installed on the brackets, which support the insulation and at the same time serve as the basis for installing the exterior trim. Using this scheme, you can also insulate baths made of foam blocks, cinder blocks or aerated concrete.
Finishing the outside of a bathhouse made of blocks
Any of the insulation schemes described above can be applied to block baths. In addition, there is another option: to cover such a bathhouse decorative bricks, but this option of finishing and insulation is possible if the temperature in the bathhouse is maintained above zero all the time.
If you decide to line a bathhouse made of blocks with bricks, you can lay out the second wall not closely, but retreating 5-10 centimeters. In this case, the thermal insulation characteristics of the building will be much improved. The gap can be left empty or filled thermal insulation material: expanded clay, sawdust that has undergone special treatment, etc.
To prevent moisture from accumulating in the space between the walls, small ventilation gaps are left in the outer wall, and to securely fix the finishing wall, small pieces of fastening reinforcement are driven into the load-bearing wall.
IN Lately Finishing material such as block house, which emits log wall. Block house is made from different materials: PVC (vinyl), metal or wood. A bathhouse made of blocks, lined with a block house, looks as if it is made of wood.
Block bathhouse covered with a block house
conclusions
A log bathhouse, built in Russian traditions, as a rule, does not require additional insulation of the walls either outside or inside.
When choosing external insulation for a brick or block bathhouse, the choice is very wide. Without harming your health, you can use mineral wool made using phenol-formaldehyde resins, which is not recommended for insulating the inside of a bathhouse. Styrofoam and polystyrene foam are also suitable.
If you have the financial means, the bathhouse can be covered with a metal block house, which will serve for many years.
How and with what to insulate a bathhouse from the outside - options and examples
Experts recommend insulating bath buildings from the outside so that the temperature is well maintained and heating costs are minimal. In addition, thanks to external thermal insulation, the building will be protected from the effects of precipitation and cold air masses, which will significantly extend its service life.
The outside of the bathhouse is insulated in various ways, depending on what material was used in its construction. For buildings constructed from rounded or sanded logs, it is recommended to seal existing cracks and crevices, since thick wood itself retains heat well. The washing room and steam room are usually insulated from the inside.
The insulation of a bathhouse made of timber from the outside depends on its thickness, as well as on the climatic conditions in the region. Buildings built from blocks and bricks must be insulated, since these materials have high thermal conductivity, and to maintain the temperature, the thickness of the walls must be more than 80 centimeters, which is fraught with high costs. Therefore, such bath buildings are certainly thermally insulated.
External insulation of log baths
Thermal protection of such buildings comes down to eliminating cracks. During the construction process, a special jute insulation is laid between the crowns, but over time the wood begins to dry out, cracks and gaps appear, which have to be repaired regularly.
After completing the construction of the log house and eliminating the shortcomings, the building must remain under the roof for at least six months. During this time, it is advisable not to use the bathhouse. The log house will shrink, the wood will dry out, and new cracks will begin to appear that need to be caulked.
For this purpose, special insulation made of flax and jute is used. Since jute retains heat excellently and does not ignite, but tears easily, flax fibers are added to it, which eliminate this problem. Thin pieces of insulation are driven into the cracks using a metal caulking blade and a hammer. The work is carried out carefully so that the building does not warp.
In addition, when choosing the best way to insulate a bathhouse from the outside, you should pay attention to a special sealant - to fill the cracks you just need to squeeze the mixture from a syringe directly into the voids.
A log house continues to shrink within two years. Experts advise not to cover it with finishing materials during this period, so that there is access to the cracks that arise, which have to be periodically eliminated. To protect the insulation from various precipitations, you should cover the outside of the bathhouse with film, securing it with strips.
Two years after construction, finishing can be done. Buildings made of logs can be sheathed with dies, clapboards, and in addition with a block house, imitation timber. First, the sheathing is installed on the walls. If it is wooden, then it must be treated with impregnations that have antibacterial and fire-resistant properties, and then checked building level to maintain horizontality and verticality.
Finishing material is attached to the sheathing, which is then coated with varnish or other protective agent. If metal guides were purchased, they are fixed to special hangers.
A wooden bathhouse is not insulated from the outside, since the logs themselves retain heat well. The building is thermally insulated from the inside - usually a steam room and a washing room. But if you still want to insulate the building from the outside, then a steam or hydrobarrier is placed on the material that is afraid of moisture, secured with strips, on which the finishing is then mounted.
Thermal insulation of baths made of timber
External insulation of bathhouse buildings made of timber is carried out in the same way as in the case of a structure made of logs. The building must also stand, since there are also gaps in it that have to be sealed.
Regarding the question of how to insulate a bathhouse made of timber from the outside, the choice depends on the climatic characteristics of the region and the thickness of the walls. This work is carried out if the thickness of the timber for of this type The climate is not sufficient for effective heat conservation.
Warming occurs as follows:
- the sheathing is carried out using timber or metal guides, placing the elements in two planes - vertical and horizontal;
- install thermal insulation materials;
- arrange moisture and wind protection;
- they make counter lathing (this is not a mandatory stage of work, but there must be a gap between the protective film and the finishing material);
- perform finishing work.
The outside of the bathhouse is sheathed with clapboard, siding, edged boards, block house, metal profiles and other materials. After finishing, wood trim is necessarily coated with a varnish composition for exterior use; sometimes it is additionally painted before this, although many modern mixtures also have a slight tinting effect.
When siding was used as a finishing material, it becomes mandatory to create a ventilation gap between the sheathing and the insulation. To create the sheathing, it is recommended to use guides, which can be purchased at the same place where the siding is purchased. They are attached to special hangers.
Thermal protection of brick baths
The question often arises about how best to insulate a bathhouse from the outside or inside if it is made of brick. Such buildings must be thermally insulated, since this building material has high thermal conductivity, and without external thermal protection it is extremely difficult to warm the premises to the required temperature.
The sequence of arranging insulation remains the same:
- Frame.
- Insulation.
- Wind and moisture insulation.
- Ventilation gap.
- Finishing.
It is recommended to use mineral wool as an external insulator. When solving the problem of how to properly insulate a bathhouse from the outside or inside: it should be borne in mind that mineral wool is not suitable for interior work, because when heated it begins to release formaldehyde. From the outside, you can protect a brick building with polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam boards (they are more expensive, but last a long time) and foam glass (the main disadvantage is the high cost).
In order to improve the quality of thermal insulation, experts recommend laying two layers apart, offset by half the length - this allows you to reduce heat loss by overlapping the seams. True, this method is more expensive, since it requires 2 times more material, and besides, the work takes a lot of time. For this reason, insulation is usually carried out in one layer, laying one mat tightly to the second, and the joints are connected with reinforced tape.
To cover a brick bathhouse, use siding or wood paneling. Another method of exterior finishing is the use of plaster if foam glass, polystyrene foam or polystyrene boards were chosen for thermal protection. In this case, lay on top of this material reinforced mesh, apply primer and then plaster.
They also use the following method, how to insulate a bathhouse from the outside with your own hands - following the example of a ventilated facade. In such a situation, special L-shaped brackets are attached to the wall with a gap of 1 centimeter less than the width of the insulation. Then slabs or insulation mats are tightly secured between them.
For reliability, they are reinforced with dowels, although this is not mandatory - the material will hold on well on its own, which is why this fixation step is done. The joints of the slabs are connected with reinforced tape or treated adhesive composition, lay a waterproofing film on top and fasten it with strips. Afterwards, guides are mounted on the brackets, which hold the insulation and at the same time serve as the basis for finishing. Using this algorithm, you can also thermally insulate baths made of cinder blocks, foam blocks, and aerated concrete.
Exterior design of block baths
As for how to insulate a bathhouse from the outside, for a building made of blocks it is allowed to use the same options as in the cases described above. Another way is to decorate the bathhouse building with decorative brickwork, but this method can only be used if the building maintains a constantly above-zero temperature.
If the decision is made to lay out the bathhouse from blocks with bricks, then the additional wall can be made incompletely, retreating by 5-10 centimeters. Thanks to this, the thermal insulation performance will improve somewhat. The gap is either left empty or filled with thermal insulation material - processed sawdust, expanded clay, and so on.
In order to prevent moisture from collecting in the space between the walls, small ventilation gaps are created in the outer walls, and short pieces of fastening reinforcement are driven into the load-bearing walls to securely fix the finishing structure.
Today, the block house is very popular - a finish that imitates a wall made of logs. It is produced from various materials: wood, vinyl (PVC), metal. The building, clad in a block house, looks as if it were made of natural wood.
If the question arises about how to insulate an old bathhouse, then the work is carried out in exactly the same way as when building a new one, depending on the material from which it is constructed. Finally, you can cover it with finishing materials, and the building will look attractive again.
Insulating a bathhouse is an important measure, without which it will not be possible to maintain a high temperature in the building. In addition, space heating costs will be reduced. Regarding the problem of how to insulate a wooden bathhouse from the outside, its solution depends on what building material the structure is quickly erected from. The work is simple enough that you can do it yourself. After insulating the bathhouse, all that remains is to complete the finishing using a suitable material - and it is completely ready for use.
Before insulating a bathhouse, you need to take into account certain factors that influence this process. You should definitely take into account what material the bathhouse was built from (brick, wooden modules or foam blocks), and study all the climatic features of your area.
Thermal insulation of a log house
From time immemorial, a log house was built for the traditional Russian bathhouse. Although it is known that wood retains heat quite well and the diameter of the log house can be more than 20 cm, it is still worth insulating the bathhouse using additional materials.
But why is it still worth insulating the bathhouse? The reasons for this are:
Now you are convinced that it is absolutely necessary to insulate your bathhouse. So, let's look at ways to insulate a bathhouse from the outside. To best insulate a log house, caulking should be done.
Most often, caulking occurs in 3 stages:
- during the first stage, the crowns are laid one on one, a special inter-crown insulation is placed on the lower crown;
- you should move on to the second stage in a year, immediately after shrinkage occurs;
- but the third stage of insulation occurs only four years later, already after the bathhouse was built. At this stage, caulking is presented as restoration of previously installed bath insulation.
If new cracks have already appeared in the bathhouse and it has begun to quickly release heat, then it is worth using insulation based on jute and flax. This jute retains heat well and is not flammable. However, you should remember that it can easily tear. And for this reason flax was added to the insulation. When filling cracks with this insulation, it is important to do it very carefully, since if you are careless, you can cause the bath to become distorted. You can also use a syringe-shaped sealant to eliminate unwanted cracks. It is easier to use and fills all the cracks efficiently.
Brick bathhouse, insulation procedure
It is known that a brick wall cools much faster than a wooden surface, for example, a log house. This happens because brick gives off heat much faster. And although there are practically no cracks or gaps in brick walls, it still takes a very long time for a brick wall to heat up. But remember that this applies to an uninsulated room.
It is best to choose mineral wool for brick walls, as it has good thermal insulation and fire-resistant properties.
It is best to use isospan as a hydro- and vapor barrier. Since it is this material that protects mineral wool from all kinds of moisture.
Remember that excessive moisture contributes to the development of fungus and without isospan, thermal insulation may not last as long as you would like. Talking about decorative design walls in your bathhouse, it all depends entirely on your material resources and preferences. But it is best to protect thermal insulation from the outside using siding or lining.
- Preparation of walls comes down to removing various kinds of protruding fittings, air conditioners, old decoration etc. If there are cracks in the brickwork, it is necessary to seal them with cement mortar (expand them), otherwise convective air currents will carry away heat from the bathhouse through the insulation layer, and cold masses from the street will be sucked in through the cracks in the lower part of the walls.
- First, you should drill holes for dowels to fix the metal brackets into the brick wall. The metal brackets themselves, namely the distance between them, must correspond to the selected dimensions of the insulation. Remember that the length of the brackets should slightly exceed the thickness of the insulation, otherwise the facade will not be ventilated effectively and moisture will accumulate in the wool.
- Dowels are used to secure the brackets, to which, after laying the mineral wool slabs, profiles made of aluminum or galvanized stainless steel are attached. The thickness of mineral wool slabs is selected based on climatic conditions; for central Russia, 15-centimeter slabs are sufficient, or two-layer laying of 100 and 50 mm insulating mats is acceptable. The wool is inserted between the brackets, installation is carried out from the bottom up, additional fixation is carried out with “fungi” - facade dowels.
Note! The metal frame with brackets can be replaced with wooden planks. In this case, 50x50 mm bars are used, which are fixed vertically on brick wall. Dowels are used for fastening; they are inserted into pre-drilled holes in the wall. Holes for anchors are also drilled in the bars. The distance between the bars is chosen according to the formula “Insulation width minus 1-1.5 cm.” Plates 50 mm thick are inserted between the guides. When the mats are laid, the sheathing beams for the second layer of insulation are fixed horizontally and both layers of insulation are attached to the wall with façade “fungi”. The last stage of work, both in the first case and when using wooden blocks, is to stretch the Izospan strips, gluing its joints, after which a vertical counter-lattice is placed under the siding/lining.
“Wet” methods of insulating a brick bath
The procedure for insulating a frame building
The design of a frame-panel bath is very simple and relatively light, so we understand that it is not suitable for heavy insulation materials. And although mineral wool has little weight, when combined with decorative finishing, the weight becomes decent. Over time, this can lead to deformation of the walls of your frame-panel bathhouse. Consequently, it would be much better to use foam plastic for insulation, because this insulation is much lighter and will not contribute to the deformation of the walls.
Polystyrene foam also has properties such as heat capacity and hydrophobicity. And there is no doubt that this material will serve you for many years. Do not forget that polystyrene foam has a number of other advantages. When insulating with this material, you will not need to build a separate frame; the foam should only be attached to a special glue.
Mesh plastering can be used as a decorative finish. But remember that this should be done only after you have laid the insulation and the glue has completely dried.
Due to the fact that many craftsmen believe that when heated, the foam plastic loses its shape and begins to gradually collapse, they still recommend thinking about using mineral wool when insulating the walls of your frame-panel bathhouse. The choice is yours, because in any case there is a risk.
Video - Do-it-yourself insulation of a frame bath
Video - Rules and mistakes for insulating a bathhouse from the inside and outside
How to insulate a foam block bathhouse
Many experts claim that a foam block bathhouse should be insulated using the same technology that is used to insulate a brick bathhouse. Others consider this opinion to be erroneous, all because the surface of the foam block is porous. It follows from this that a foam block bathhouse must be protected from moisture from the inside, while a waterproofing material is sufficient for a brick bathhouse. 
To insulate foam concrete walls, it is recommended to use expanded polystyrene. This is a fairly durable material with high thermal insulation properties and physical and chemical properties, and is easy to install even alone. The only drawback is the possibility of damage to the insulation by rodents.
Insulation of a foam block bath, main stages of work
Important note. A bathhouse made of aerated concrete is insulated according to the same principle as a bathhouse made of cinder block.
For insulation, you can use basalt wool or polystyrene foam with a thickness of more than 50 mm. The selected material must be placed between the lathing strips (the installation procedure is described above). Make sure that there are no gaps between the sheathing and the heat insulator.
If polystyrene foam is used for insulation, it is recommended to additionally secure it with facade dowels or use glue, and glue the joints of the sheets with construction tape.
A waterproofing material is stretched over the insulation layer, and the overlaps of adjacent panels of 10-15 cm are strictly observed and glued. Direct fixation roll material made by thin slats of counter-lattice. Next, the decorative facade panels will be attached.
How to insulate a bathhouse from the inside
The technologies for insulating a log house and a brick bathhouse are very similar. Most craftsmen do not consider it necessary to insulate the walls of the bathhouse from the inside, paying attention only to the roof, ceiling and foundation. So let's find out the reasons why you should insulate a bathhouse from the inside and what technologies exist for this.
Why do you need to insulate a bathhouse from the inside?
Diameter wooden crown in a log bathhouse it is most often 20 centimeters. If the caulking was done efficiently, then there will be no need to insulate your bathhouse from the inside. But there are still reasons why this is necessary:
- it may happen that the diameter of the crown in the log house is small, which in the future will lead to poor thermal insulation;
- The bathhouse must be insulated from the inside if the foundation has not been insulated. Or it was insulated, but very poorly;
- Due to bad weather conditions, the insulation of the bathhouse from the outside is insufficient.
The masters are confident that if the bathhouse is insulated well enough, then heating it will take 3 times less energy, and it will be possible to use a weaker stove.
The structure of the walls of an insulated bathhouse is very similar to a thermos (sometimes this is called an insulation “pie”). After all, those who are going to really insulate a bathhouse with high quality will need steam and waterproofing.
The walls of an insulated bathhouse have the following structure: a pre-prepared wall, a mandatory layer of waterproofing, thermal insulation, vapor barrier and, of course, decorative finishing.
If you choose the right quality material, you can independently cope with the insulation of the bathhouse from the inside very quickly. To insulate a bath you will need material that will:
- high quality, with high thermal insulation properties;
- not prone to rotting and will not be damaged by a variety of insects;
- most importantly, the insulation must be fire-resistant, because the temperature in the bathhouse can be above 100 degrees.
Since not all materials are suitable in quality and properties for internal insulation of a bathhouse, experts most often use basalt wool. Besides the fact that it has a very reasonable price, basalt wool also suitable for other parameters. In addition, it is recommended to choose special synthetic boards that have a soft structure.
It should be remembered that when insulating walls, you should perform hydro- and vapor barrier in parallel with thermal insulation, because these processes are closely related.
First of all, you should prepare the surface of the walls.
If you see any cracks or seams, you should fill them with plaster. Experts also recommend using sealant for these purposes. Once you have finished, you should move on to the next stage - waterproofing.
Note. If your bathhouse was made from a log house, then waterproofing it immediately after construction is strictly prohibited. First, you should wait until the shrinkage finishes, often this takes more than a year.
How is hydro- and thermal insulation produced?
First of all, you should protect the walls, floor and ceiling of the bathhouse from moisture. It is best to use polyethylene film or special foil.
The insulation technology itself using foil is simple. You should do the following:
Note. All bars must be lubricated with a special antiseptic in advance.
Finishing the bath from the outside
Due to the fact that we already have the necessary wooden frame, we just have to find high-quality material for the exterior decoration of the bathhouse. Only after this the insulation of the bathhouse can be completed. Most often, wooden lining is used for the external cladding of bathhouses in Russia.
In conclusion, to all of the above, it would not be superfluous to pay attention to interesting and useful tips specialists.
For a long time in Rus', the insulation of bathhouse walls was carried out exclusively with natural materials: felt, flax and moss were used, which are occasionally used today. But any natural insulation has its drawbacks - birds and mice like to take it away, and the very insulation of walls in a bathhouse in this case requires special skill. Modern synthetic materials are much better - more durable and no less warm.
Of course, how to insulate the walls of a bathhouse seems a simple question, but in fact there are many nuances here. And the more you know about this, the warmer and safer your bathhouse will be.
For reasons of safety for human health, it is better to insulate the inside of the bathhouse exclusively with natural materials - for example, mineral wool. And it will be protected from moisture by heat-reflecting waterproofing films, sealed from the eyes with clapboard.
Features of insulation of log walls
It would seem, why do the walls need insulation in log structures? After all, the bathhouse looks quite hermetically sealed when installed? The point is that such building material, like a log house, shrinkage is common, which causes serious cracks to form. And through them, cold air penetrates directly into the steam room - which is absolutely not beneficial either for health or for finances in terms of unnecessary expenses on fuel. Therefore, such a bathhouse needs to be insulated, and the most effective way is inter-crown caulking.
All you need to do is lay out the insulation during the construction of the log house, and upon completion of construction, treat the joint of adjacent logs or beams. After that, the fibers are stuffed with a hammer and caulk, and the seams are treated with sealant.
Technology of the insulation process of frame, block and brick walls
But insulating the walls inside a frame bath is more intricate - here you need your own methods. After all high loads and such a structure cannot withstand special weight, and therefore everything must be calculated, first of all, from the technological side. Those. Insulation can only be used if it is light in weight. And polystyrene foam as external insulation is simply irreplaceable for block buildings - it is not afraid of water, is lightweight and is attached with ordinary construction adhesive.
The insulation of the walls from the inside in the bathhouse itself looks like this:
- Step 1. Create a frame on the load-bearing wall.
- Step 2. The walls are sheathed with insulation.
- Step 3. Waterproofing materials are attached to the insulation - a foil layer or at least a polyethylene film. They need to be laid with an overlap, and all joints should be sealed with thin slats.
- Step 4. Everything is covered with boards or clapboards - that's all.
As an option, use special polyurethane foam boards.
Insulating walls from the outside - how to wrap a bathhouse in a “fur coat”
It is necessary to insulate the bathhouse not only inside, but also outside - in order to fully protect it from external cold and significantly reduce fuel costs. And high-quality external thermal insulation means a significant reduction in fuel consumption, humidity control and a guarantee against mold and unpleasant odor. After all, the main task of external insulation of a bathhouse is to cover building structures and protect them from contact with cold air and precipitation.
Next, how to insulate walls in a bathhouse made of bricks and various types of blocks? The answer is simple: you need to create a good outer protective layer. The easiest way is to install a ventilated facade. Everything is very simple: a protective layer of waterproofing is applied, and then the wall is sheathed with siding, clapboard or even simple wooden boards.
But good old mineral wool is most suitable as a heat insulator for such a “pie”: it is environmentally friendly, fireproof, soundproofing and has low thermal conductivity. The insulation process itself looks like this:
- Step 1. The brackets, which are made in the form of squares, are attached. Between them there is a step one centimeter less than the width of the insulation mats.
- Step 2. Mineral wool is inserted between the angles, which must be elastic and able to withstand significant pressure.
- Step 3. The remaining joints between the plates are glued with construction tape and filled with adhesive.
- Step 4. The walls are covered with rolled waterproofing, and it, in turn, is secured with thin slats.
- Step 5. Now - installation of guides, which are designed to hold the insulation and serve as a support for the cladding.
By the way, universal materials have already appeared on the modern market that perform two functions at once - insulation and waterproofing. For example, foil penotherm is foamed polypropylene, which is covered with aluminum foil and levsan with a metal coating. It can withstand temperatures up to 1500 degrees and creates truly effective bath insulation.
How can you insulate a bathhouse outside and inside?
The Russian bathhouse does not lose its popularity, and at the same time it must be built in compliance with the relevant norms and rules. Therefore, the question of how to insulate a bathhouse remains very relevant.
Some features of bath insulation
Proper thermal insulation of the bathhouse will help to significantly reduce fuel costs, improve the quality of the procedure, and keep the building itself in good condition for a long time, especially if the bathhouse is used all year round.
Since ancient times, Russian baths have been insulated using natural materials - moss, tow, bast, etc. Nowadays, it is better to use artificial insulation. They are durable, easy to install, and environmentally friendly.
When choosing insulation, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of using bath rooms - high level moisture, high temperatures, often live fire. All these points impose certain requirements on bath insulation, especially if they will be used for internal insulation.
Before purchasing material, it is necessary to carefully consider a number of important factors, taking into account cost, biological inertness, and technical characteristics of the proposed heat insulators. 1 more important point- regional climate. The amount of materials required is determined by the size of the bathhouse building and the required thickness of the thermal insulation layer.
Whether it is necessary and whether it is possible to insulate a bathhouse from the outside depends on the material from which it is built, the regional climate and the time of use - seasonal or year-round.
Required tools and materials
In order to carry out thermal insulation of a bathhouse yourself, you need to prepare the following set of tools:
- construction tape;
- screwdriver;
- building level and plumb line;
- axe;
- chisel;
- saw or hacksaw;
- hammer;
- jigsaw;
- nippers or pliers;
- sharp technical knife;
- electric drill or hammer drill.
In addition to the insulation itself, for work you will need:
- vapor barrier film;
- wooden beam;
- metal strip;
- screws and nails;
- adhesive tape.
How to choose insulation
The bathhouse usually has: a dressing room, washing rooms, a steam room, a dressing room, and a relaxation room. These rooms have different levels of humidity and temperature during washing. Therefore, how you can insulate a bathhouse inside is determined for each room separately.
According to their mechanical characteristics, insulation materials are divided into bulk, block and tile, matte and fibrous materials.
The chemical composition makes it possible to divide heat insulators into organic, inorganic, technical and plastic materials.
Plastic-based heat insulators are best used for insulating rooms with low level moisture and temperatures. They are not used in the steam room due to their easy flammability and deformation when heated. Cheap and safe organic heat insulators can be used in a steam room only after fire prevention treatment.
Inorganic heat insulators are considered the most practical. These materials are fire resistant and non-hygroscopic. They do not rot and can serve for a long time without losing their basic technical properties.
More about vapor barriers
Most good option vapor barriers for all rooms of the bath - aluminium foil. It is fire-resistant, durable, non-hygroscopic. The main advantage of aluminum foil is its ability to reflect heat. By using such a vapor barrier in a bathhouse, you can significantly reduce the consumption of fuel material.
Glassine and roofing felt cannot be used in the steam room, since these materials, when heated, emit volatile toxic substances. In some cases, glassine can be used as insulation. It is better not to use roofing material for this purpose at all.
The choice of insulation and the method of its installation depend on the material from which the bathhouse is built. If the bathhouse is built from timber, a cellular sheathing of timber is first installed on the load-bearing walls. The cross-section of the timber should be 0.2-0.3 cm greater than the thickness of the heat insulator. This will ensure the safety of the insulation and its useful properties.
The selected heat insulator is placed between the sheathing beams. It is covered with a vapor barrier material. The vapor barrier is laid with a shift. A thin metal strip is mounted over the joints. A gap of no more than 3 cm must be left between the insulation and the vapor barrier.
The corners of the room, pipes, window and door openings are sealed using special vapor barrier tape. This will protect problem areas from moisture penetration.
For finishing in this case it is easier to use clapboard boards. It is stuffed on top of the vertical sheathing.
Bath buildings of panel or frame type are insulated only with heat insulators that have a low specific gravity. Before use, they are treated with lime milk to protect against corrosion and increase fire resistance. After processing, the material must be thoroughly dried.
We insulate the steam room
The steam room in the bathhouse requires special attention. After all, it is here that the highest level of moisture and elevated temperature are observed during operation. Therefore, insulation, waterproofing and finishing of this room must be done with special materials.
The ceiling of the steam room is subject to maximum heating during operation (up to 150 °C). Therefore, the question of how to insulate the ceiling of a bathhouse is solved by using materials with high heat resistance.
If there is no attic or attic, insulation is installed in the following order:
- wooden lattice made of timber on the ceiling boards;
- sheathing elements;
- thermal insulation;
- vapor barrier.
If there is an upper room - an attic, an attic - the insulation scheme looks slightly different. A layer of clay at least 2 cm thick is applied to the ceiling boards. This will ensure moisture retention. All small holes, joints between boards, etc. are filled with bulk material. Typically, expanded clay or wood chips are used for this. The thickness of this layer is at least 20 cm.
A box-shaped base of rafter supports is mounted on the ceiling around the chimney. This will provide a gap of 20 cm between the pipe and the heat insulator, required fire safety. A non-flammable heat insulator such as glass wool or mineral wool is placed inside the box. The main surface of the ceiling is covered with a layer of mineral heat insulator.
The walls and ceiling of a bathhouse building must be insulated according to the following principles:
- Thermal insulators must be in close contact with the wall surface to reduce the risk of internal moisture and cold air entering.
- A ventilation gap is needed on top of the insulation to dry it.
- All floors and others wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic composition to prevent premature destruction of the material.
- Materials with a low level of heat and moisture resistance cannot be used in the steam room.
- Insulation materials should be selected from those that do not deform under the influence of moisture and high temperatures and do not emit hazardous chemicals.
Necessary properties of insulation for a bath:
- heat resistance;
- moisture resistance;
- environmental friendliness;
- Fire safety.
Natural insulation materials require special treatment before use. Otherwise, mold, mildew and harmful insects may soon appear. In this case, it is more advisable to use artificial insulation.
Application of foam plastic
Many home craftsmen are interested in whether it is possible to insulate a bathhouse with foam plastic. After all, this is a relatively inexpensive and easy-to-use material. However, it should be said that the bathhouse can be insulated with foam plastic from the outside or along the foundation.
When asked whether it is possible to insulate a bathhouse with foam plastic from the inside, most experts will answer negatively. This is due to the fact that foam is easily destroyed when exposed to high temperatures. The low moisture resistance of this material causes it to rot under the influence of high humidity. Therefore, for the interior of a bathhouse, foam plastic can only be used in rooms where there is almost no moisture.
Use of mineral wool
The question of whether it is possible to insulate a bathhouse with mineral wool is usually resolved positively.
After all, mineral wool is almost universal modern insulation, which has many positive technical characteristics. Among them are:
- reliability;
- moisture resistance;
- heat resistance;
- fire safety;
- resistance to rotting;
- easy installation.
Therefore, mineral wool can be used as bath insulation both outside and inside, including a steam room.
Penoplex insulation
Is it possible to insulate a bathhouse from the inside with penoplex? This is quite acceptable taking into account some technical characteristics of the material. Despite having many useful properties, penoplex is a hygroscopic material with low heat resistance.
Therefore, in the steam room it is better to use it only on the walls and be sure to cover it with foil. In other sections of the bath it is quite suitable.
Bathroom floor insulation
The floor in the bathhouse is usually made of wooden boards or concrete. The board is used in relatively dry rooms. Concrete - in the washing room and in the steam room. The technology of floor insulation depends on the base material.
To insulate a concrete floor, expanded clay (3-5 mm), extruded polystyrene or boiler slag are most often used. The upper level of the floor at the end of the insulation work is 15-20 cm. The work is carried out in the following order.
The concrete base must be leveled and cleared of construction debris and dust. Next, an adhesive composition is applied to the surface in 2-3 layers. Most often, special mastics are used for this, for example, rubber-concrete. A waterproofing agent - high-strength polyethylene or roofing felt - is placed on the adhesive composition.
After the waterproofing has set, the installation of insulation begins. An adhesive composition is again applied on top of it, on which the waterproofing material is laid. The last layer is a reinforced concrete screed, at least 30 mm thick. The concrete must be leveled and dried properly. The finishing of such a floor is usually done using ceramic tiles. Under it you can place a heated floor system.
To insulate a wooden floor, you must first remove the old boards. A cranial beam is placed on the remaining beams from below. It must be wrapped in roofing felt or heavy-duty polyethylene. A rough floor covering is laid on top of the waterproofing material. For this purpose, bulk materials or mineral wool are mainly used. Is it possible to insulate the floor in a bathhouse using isopink? It is possible if the floor is wooden and is located in a room with a low level of moisture.
A waterproofing material is applied over the insulation. Then the finished floor board is laid. A plinth is attached around the perimeter of the room. Finish paintwork does not apply in this case, since these materials release toxins under the influence of temperature and moisture. If desired, the wooden floor can be covered with special rubberized mats. They will make the room cozy and will not cause much trouble when cleaning. The floor in the bathhouse is insulated mainly for greater user comfort. Floor insulation has little effect on the overall temperature inside the bath rooms.
Roof insulation
How can you insulate the roof of a bathhouse? This problem can be solved depending on the use of the room. If the bathhouse building is intended only for hygienic procedures and relaxation, to insulate the roof it will be enough to lay roofing felt on the sheathing before installing the roofing pie. In the case when brooms will be dried inside the bathhouse, linen and other equipment will be stored, the roof must be thoroughly insulated.
Exterior finishing of a bathhouse is necessary to increase the service life of the building, give it an aesthetic appearance and improve performance characteristics. Among the abundance of options offered, it is important to choose the most suitable one.
The content of the article:
Realize external cladding Bathroom space is necessary not only to improve the aesthetic appearance. It is also needed to improve thermal and waterproofing performance, since a bathhouse is a place with high humidity. In addition, if it is located in close proximity to other residential buildings, it is worth choosing a finishing material that will ideally suit the general style of the area on which the bathhouse is located.
Materials for exterior finishing of baths
Depending on the material from which the hygienic building is made, your preferences and finances, the following materials are used to decorate the outside of the bathhouse:
- Vinyl or metal siding. It is environmentally friendly, lightweight, durable and affordable. It is easy to install, resistant to atmospheric, mechanical and temperature influences. Available in a wide color palette. They are usually used to cover frame and brick buildings.
- Wooden or plastic lining. Both modifications of the material are characterized by relative cheapness. Easy to install. Suitable for finishing brick baths.
- Block house. It looks like a rounded log. With this finish, the bathhouse will look like a log house.
- Imitation of timber. Durable and durable lumber. It is a type of lining.
- Trimmed and not edged board . Cheap option. Among the shortcomings is the unaesthetic appearance.
- Fake diamond. It has long term service, withstands atmospheric influences and mechanical stress. Used to implement interesting design ideas.
- Decorative plaster and cement-sand mortar. Economical option, which is called “fur coat”. It is easy to care for and frost-resistant. Suitable only for baths with a solid foundation due to its heavy weight. Popular in last years“warm plaster” is used.
- OSB panels. Durable, elastic, water-repellent and fire-resistant material. Its installation does not require additional wall insulation.
- Facade tiles. Durable and resistant to external influences. Suitable for finishing any baths.
Please note: bathhouses made of timber and logs can begin to be lined no earlier than in a year and a half. The building must be “stable”. But brick buildings can begin to be faced immediately upon completion of construction.
Features of the exterior finishing of a log bathhouse with your own hands
Log houses usually do not need exterior decoration. However, to increase the heat-saving characteristics and service life, the wood must be further processed.
The work is carried out in the following way:
- We make caulk. To do this, hammer the tow into the cracks between the crowns with a hammer and spatula. It is used as insulation.
- We sand the walls. For quick grinding we use an electric grinder.
- We carefully treat the walls with antiseptic impregnation.
- Then we prime the surface and paint it.
- After drying, we perform retouching (touch up the missed areas).
- Apply a second coat of paint.
Finishing the outside of the bathhouse with siding
This method is optimal for brick buildings. Installation on wooden baths is not advisable, since the material will interfere natural ventilation wood For cladding we will need: siding panels (from 150 rubles per piece), joining parts, 5*8 cm boards or slats for sheathing, brackets, vapor barrier film (optional), insulation (optional), waterproofing material (preferably isospan).
We carry out siding work in the following order:
- We attach a vapor barrier layer to the wall to protect the heat insulator from condensation.
- We build a sheathing. To do this, we nail 5/8 cm slats to the wall at a distance of up to 30 cm.
- We lay a layer of heat insulation between the profiles and leave a distance of 1–3 cm to the siding.
- We cover the insulation with waterproofing. Optimal material is considered isospan.
- We secure the starting strip with self-tapping screws or galvanized nails and install the corner parts.
- We install siding sheets in the corner and starting strips.
- We assemble the panel from bottom to top, joining each part according to the tongue-and-groove pattern.
- The last thing we fix is the finishing strip. We insert the finishing element into it from below.
Siding does not require special care and is easy to clean. And if desired, it can be easily repainted.
Finishing the bathhouse outside with a block house
Several types of this material are used for cladding buildings:
- Natural. Made from deciduous and coniferous wood.
- Metal. Galvanized steel is used for its manufacture.
- Acrylic. Based on polymer resin.
- Vinyl. It is melted from PVC powder.
Before starting the cladding process, you need to treat all the wood with an antiseptic and fire retardant.
Next we carry out the work step by step:
- Attach horizontally vapor barrier film with an overlap of 10–15 cm. We fix it with staples and a construction stapler.
- We also install the sheathing in a horizontal position. Fastening to a wooden base is carried out using self-tapping screws or nails. We fix it to the brick wall with frame dowels in the pre-drilled recesses.
- We lay insulation between the beams.
- Using a construction stapler with staples, we attach the waterproofing material.
- We build a second sheathing on the main frame clearly vertically.
- We cover its surface with block house elements from the bottom up in a horizontal position.
- We fix the panels with clamps.
- After finishing, we hide the heads of the screws. To do this, we use wooden paste made from sawdust and PVA, ready-made plugs or the remains of a block house.
- We trim the corners with plinths, and window and door openings with cash elements.
Finishing the outside of the bathhouse with warm plaster
This method is used for buildings with a solid foundation. More often cement-sand mortar trim brick baths. For wooden structures it can only be used after caulking all the cracks. For effective insulation and aesthetic cladding we will need the following materials: 3*5 cm timber for sheathing, umbrella dowels, polystyrene foam, construction adhesive for polystyrene foam, plastic reinforcing mesh, base for “warm plaster”.
We carry out cladding work in the following sequence:
- We stuff the sheathing. To do this, we use bars 3–5 cm thick.
- We attach the insulation panels in a horizontal position with special “umbrella” dowels. The seams should not be located along the same line.
- We lay the second layer of heat insulation vertically. We fix it with foam polystyrene glue.
- We cover the structure with a plastic reinforcing mesh.
- Apply a layer of “warm plaster”.
This finish is easy to maintain and has a long service life.
External cladding of the bathhouse with clapboard
Such material is considered less reliable because it is damaged due to atmospheric influences. For covering a room with wood or plastic lining you need to stock up on brackets, mineral wool mats, dowels, construction adhesive, guides, waterproofing film, and clapboard.
We carry out finishing in the following sequence:
- We install the brackets horizontally at a distance of up to 50 cm from each other.
- We decorate the walls with mineral wool mats. To attach them, we use construction glue or dowels.
- We fix the guides on the brackets and check them with a spirit level.
- We lay a layer of waterproofing.
- We attach the paneling with self-tapping screws.
Remember that the lining must have a humidity within 15%. Otherwise, the wet lining, drying out, will form gaps.
And finally, we recommend watching a video about the exterior decoration of the bathhouse:
Instructions for finishing the outside of a bathhouse different ways and photos will help you independently implement any stylistic decision on the facade of the building. Carved details on the openings of windows and doors will help decorate the walls of a traditional Russian bathhouse. You can also decorate the building with openwork cornices and platbands.
Visiting the bathhouse has become one of our favorite national traditions. Insulating the bathhouse from the outside will help improve its performance and provide high-quality and healthy relaxation.
In order to maintain a suitable temperature inside, it is necessary to take a responsible approach to the work and take into account several main factors:
- the material that was used for the construction of the structure, since the insulation of a wooden bathhouse has different specifics than that of a brick object;
- type of insulation: for a log structure, for example, you can use felt, modern bulk, foam or mineral materials.
When insulating a bathhouse from the outside with your own hands, you must strictly follow all the rules. This way, you will be able to achieve maximum quality so that it is warm and warms up quickly and easily. Experts gave some advice on thermal insulation of a bathhouse:
- Remember about the foundation of the structure - special mineral mats are suitable for its cladding. There should be holes in the foundation to allow ventilation. You can insulate the floor by laying expanded clay underneath.
- It is necessary to install a layer of vapor barrier between the interior finishing and the exterior wall. This is especially true in the steam room.
- To prevent steam from having a detrimental effect on a wooden object, it is necessary to coat the upper part of the structure with a mixture of sawdust and clay.
- To avoid heat loss through windows, it is necessary to close all cracks along the contour of the opening with non-combustible materials. You should also make sure that the frames fit snugly into the window openings.
Material selection
The insulation must meet certain criteria:
- can withstand elevated temperatures well;
- have low hygroscopicity (tendency to absorb moisture);
- do not deform: do not fall off or roll;
- not be prone to rotting and do not attract rodents;
- be environmentally friendly.
To insulate a timber bath from the outside, materials such as:
- Natural: felt, fluff, cotton wool. They are used primarily for timber structures. The material covers the space between the logs.
- Backfills: these are small granules that come in different sizes and densities. They are made using foaming technology or other ways. Such products can be applied in different ways, in particular by spraying with water.
- Blocks: compact and fairly light foam boards, for example, foam glass.
- Rolls, a little like thin layers of quilted cotton wool. They are convenient to install.
- Cotton wool made from fluffed, shapeless fibers: for example, glass-based, stone, mineral wool and others.
- Foil: thin film, coated with metal. With its help you can sheathe the bathhouse from the outside and inside.
- Slabs: similar to rolls, but have a rigid shape.
- Liquids consisting of foamed granules. As a rule, they are used on hard to reach places. Covering the surface, such liquids form a strong polymer coating.
Let's focus on thermal insulation that is recommended for outdoor use. These are materials that are one hundred percent natural fibers: moss, linen tow, felt. They are placed in the gaps between the beams, achieving optimal air exchange.
Red moss is also used to insulate a timber bath from the inside. Its advantages are its inability to rot and a convenient fiber length - from 15 to 30 cm. Sphagnum mosses and cuckoo flax are popular. Plus, they're inexpensive, so they won't put a dent in your wallet.
The insulation of a bathhouse made of timber can be carried out using jute, which is used on the crowns, caulking the entire structure in this way. Also suitable are flax batting, jute felt, etc. These elastic, dense strips are used to fill the space between the logs.
How to insulate a concrete or brick bathhouse from the outside? Such work is carried out using mineral products - these are mineral wool mats or soft slabs. Insulation must be carried out at least twice, the second time when the sauna was built at least a year ago.
Structures made of concrete and brick are faced with mineral-based products - mats or soft slabs. They are elastic and consist of thin mineral fibers. Depending on the mineral of manufacture, there are slag and stone wool.
For external insulation of brick and concrete buildings they use mineral insulation, which are soft slabs or mats made of mineral wool.
Such plates have flexible and thin fibers from mineral melts in their structure. All wool is divided into stone and slag; this classification depends on the material of manufacture.
Advantages of mineral-based insulation:
- low hygroscopicity;
- environmental friendliness;
- non-flammability;
- budget price.
Glass wool is also used: it is elastic, durable and protects well from the cold.
In addition to mineral wool, glass wool is also used, which has excellent thermal insulation properties, strength, and elasticity.
Let's look at plastic products: they are divided into cellular, foam, honeycomb and porous. The most popular among them is polystyrene foam - it has high density, strength and retains heat well.
Among modern building materials, most buyers prefer foam glass. It is inexpensive, has high sound insulation properties, is resistant to moisture, is durable and has a long service life.
How can you insulate a bathhouse made of timber?
Such work is carried out at the construction stage of the facility, laying thermal insulation (jute, tow, red moss, flax fiber) between the logs. After the roof is completed, the grooves and gaps are caulked. For this, it is recommended to use tape materials - they will ensure strength and long-term operation of the building.
How to properly insulate a brick structure?
As a rule, mineral-based products are also used for thermal insulation of brick structures. They are laid on a prepared sheathing, which is fixed to the external walls. Foil is applied on top, which will provide a vapor barrier.
Make your bath warm and cozy!