Rose at all times was considered the Queen of the Garden. Probably there is no flowerfish that would not seek to grow these beautiful flowers on its plot. However, roses are whimsical, and not always their cultivation is successful - then they do not come out, then they do not come true at all. When to plant roses: in autumn or spring? This controversial question is relevant not only for beginner flower water, but also for quite experienced. The fact is that there are no clear terms. It is possible to land roses both in spring and autumn, it all depends on the climate, landing option, rose varieties and other factors.
Roses landing is possible in different times: in the fall, in spring period And even in the summer. Bushes with a closed root system grown in containers or pots, you can transplant in the ground throughout the warm season. As for seedlings with a root root system, they should be planted in spring or autumn. Each of the time periods has certain advantages and disadvantages. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the climate of the region where roses are planted, and planting in accordance with its features.
Autumn landing is acceptable for southern territories with soft and short winters. Locking young bushes in these regions, you can not worry about what they will freeze. However, there is a catch. It may happen that winter will be very warm or permanent cold belated, and then the landed bush is in growth, which will most negatively affect its wintering. There is in autumn landing and positive moments - This is sufficient humidity of air and soil. In the fall, the temperature gradually decreases and often rains, which eliminates the need to water the plants, and ensure that they do not overheat.
Landing roses in the spring ensures that the seedlings will not freeze from severe frosts, and their rooting will not hurt. Danger represent, except for, night frosts, but from them the plants can be in the first time.
The reverse side of the spring landing is that the air temperature is growing rapidly, and the soil is heated, so plants need frequent irrigation and shelter from the Sun. The landing of the early spring this problem also does not decide, since in March or early April, the Earth is still frowning, and roses need to be perplexed in fully fatty and warm soil. 
And yet many flower products are chosen for landing spring Time. IN open sad Plants disembark as soon as the soil warms up to +10 ° C (April - beginning of May). The exact long time depends on the climate of the region, but it is necessary to make the disembarkation before the renal dissipation. In the spring it is recommended to plant roses in a mountainous area, where sharp temperature differences are often happening.
Spring is the right time to plant strawab roses, as the flowers of these varieties are very poorly carrying the autumn fit, and the cold as a whole. Also in the spring, it is preferable to plant plenty roses, but the soil grades can be planted both in spring and autumn. Given all the pros and cons of landing periods, to definitely answer the question: when is it better to plant roses? - It is very difficult, so you should take the fact that both options are applicable in practice, which of them choose, solve themselves, based on external factors.
Video "Landing bushes in spring"
From the video you will learn how to close the bushes in spring time.
Preparation of seedlings and soil
At first glance it may seem that there is nothing complicated in planting roses. The planting process itself is really simple if all preparatory work held in advance. The preparation of roses to the landing consists of several very important stages:
- Selection of the site. Roses for successful development and flowering need a lot of sun and airspace, so the best option for landing will not be shaded the spacious land of the earth away from high plants And trees.
Excessive humidity they do not like, and if it is not possible to plant bushes on a small elevation or a slope, it is necessary to provide good drainage plants. - Preparation of soil. To the soil Rose is also demanding. It prefers loose and enough fertile land with a large layer of organics. The best way - Suglly soil, mixed with humus, compost and mineral fertilizers. Before landing, you need to switch well, clean the garbage, make fertilizers. If the soil is too heavy, it is necessary to add coarse sand, peat - these components will improve its properties. The landing pits are digging 2 weeks before disembarking - this time is necessary in order for the soil to compact and entered into cooperation with fertilizers.
- Preparation of seedlings. If the plants are purchased in the nursery, then, most likely, the roots dried. To revive them, seedlings put in the water for a day. Instead of water, you can use a stimulating solution. Specialists recommend before planting the roots to swallow into the crucible cake and the cowboy (2 parts of clay and 1 part of the cowboy are diluted with water to the consistency of sour cream). The bush itself needs to be cut to a length of 30 cm, all thin shoots remove the secateur, leaving 2-4 the strongest.
It is advisable for landing a roses to choose a calm day. Do not put plants immediately after the rain or in hot weather.
Disembarking saplings
In the spring of roses plant in the ground, when the threat of night frosts passes, and the soil will overtake and warm up. The landing pits must correspond to the size of the rhizomes, but if they dig up before the purchase of seedlings, then the optimal will be 50x50x50. With a group landing, it is necessary to observe the distance between the bushes, which depends on the varietal features of the rose:
If the pits are prepared in advance, then before planting they only need to pour, you can also add a handful of wood ash. Then the seedlock is placed in a hole, straighten the roots and lay asleep the earth, periodically ragging each layer - it is necessary to accidentally accidentally formed airbags.
It is very important that the roots in the pit are located freely, since it will be more difficult for them in cramped.
After landing the land around a seedling, the planted pink bush is watered, after which the roots of the dry earth fall down the roots of 15-20 cm.
Challenge an ancient statement that rose - the queen of the garden will not be. Without her and garden is not a garden. To roses grow well and every year abundantly bloomed, it is necessary to choose correctly and put a seedling. Several useful tips how to plant roses.
Before you go to the nursery or a garden center to choose a seedling yourself, you need to decide on the landing site and the view of the rose itself. Roses are plenty, growing into a height of several meters, they need a support. Park roses give compact bushes with large flowers. Soil solutions have the ability to quickly grow, covering the soil with the plexus of the branches. What to plant and where - these questions should be worked out before buying. And yet ... when the lover of flowers falls into the nursery or at the exhibition of flowers, then it is rarely limited to the acquisition of planned plants. It's hard to resist beauty! As a result, it urgently needs to look for a place for new pets.
Conditionally divide the entire process of planting roses into the following components:
- Selection seed;
- Choice of landing place;
- Preparation of a plot and landing pit;
- Preparation of a seedling;
- Actually landing;
- Aftermaking care.
When to plant roses?
Planting time - Spring and autumn. Spring best time Before the start of growth, this may be the period from March to May, depending on the climatic zone. In the fall transplanted after the onset of cool nights and the end of flowering. With autumn landing, it is important that the rose has managed to root to the fruit of the soil.
Seat selection
You need to buy seedlings in specialized centers or take from proven nurseries. Only so you can be confident in the correctness of the variety and health of the plant. In garden exhibitions it is better to choose trees, shrubs and perennial flowers from nurseries close to climatic zone. It makes no sense to plant roses that are not able to winter in your area.
More attention should be paid to the state of the shrub roots than on its crown. The branches will grow if the plant is normally rooted. Root system It should be healthy, branched, without damage and rot.
Sometimes the bushes of roses with flowers sell in the autumn markets. It seems to be a good option - it can be seen that you are buying, - but such plants are badly leaving. The sapling must be prepared for the rest period.
New seedlings are purchased, the question arises - where to plant that they be healthy and pleased with abundant bloom?
Selection of place for landing
Rosa loves good lighting during the day. Sunny plot is the best place for her. The size of the plant and the number of flowers directly depends on the duration of the illumination during the day. Small roses in the sun give a compact bush with thick foliage, and in the shade of their shoots are pulled out, the leaves are small and the distance between them more, the bush falls apart. Only the sun reaches their full size.
The health of the roses is also highly dependent on the sun. At well-lit plants, plants are less likely affected by fungal diseases.
Many popular varieties are thermal-loving, they grow well in the northern regions, but under one condition - if you land in a solar place protected from the cold northern winds. In the south, roses are better growing where there is no soil overheating on a hot noon, there may be a slight shading from the crowns of trees in the middle of the day.
Roses do not like excessive humidity. They do not take root in wetlands and where in the spring for a long time tELL WATER. In addition, such wet shorts in the winter are cooled to more low temperaturesand in the spring badly warming up, which is bad for wintering roses. If on the site a high level of groundwater, then the only way to grow roses is to make a high floweruba, lift the flower bed by 30-50 cm from the main level of soil.
Sunny place near the south side of the house without stagnation of moisture, a gentle southern slope - the right places where it is best to plant a rose.
How to prepare a place for landing
When a place to land a rose is chosen, then you must definitely switch the plot to destroy perennial weeds. If this is not done, then you will have to destroy them later, and at the same time it is easy to damage the roots just a favorable plant.
In fertile garden land, the landing pit is digging such a size so that the root system can fit freely and had a small supply of growth (plus 10-15 cm). The top layer of the soil (approximately 20-25 cm) is the most fertile, it is removed and postponed, the next layer of the Earth (20-25 cm) is poured on another bunch. The pit is deepened to the required depth, the bottom of it is well drunk and mixed with top layer Sided soil. It is useful to pour to the soil of the village before planting.
Dense clay or sand on the site dictate their conditions. The pit is frightened more than it is required for the root system, fertile soil with fertilizers is falling asleep, slightly tampering or spillway with water for precipitation. In dense clay soil on the bottom of the pit for a better drainage, it is desirable to pour gravel or broken bricks. In heavy soil it is useful to add peat, compost, well-overwhelmed manure, sand, ash.
Sedna preparation
Purchased roses saplings are best planted immediately after purchase. If there is no such possibility, then it is necessary to put them in a cool and dark place. Posted by mail seedlings sometimes come too early when still soil has not excited. They need to be placed in cool dark place, open roots spray with a wet loose soil.
When buying seedlings with open roots, you can see the condition and size of the root system, but it is not known how much time they were stored in this form. Light roots can be soaked for a day, it will help save the plants. If seedlings are sold with cropped roots, cuts need to be updated by cutting them with a second-millimeter secateur.
The seedlings purchased with a closed root system are removed from the packaging before planting. If the roots are in the film, it is useful to unwind it and soak roots in water or the stimulant of the root formation for a couple of hours.
Roses supplied with a closed root system in containers, manufacturers firms recommend planted as it is - in a grid, peat pot or other capacitance of the supplier. If there is no experience - do it. But it is better to carefully remove the plant and inspect the roots. There is often a lot of damaged, broken, curved roots, which is unacceptable when landing.
Experts advise before landing the roots of the seedling dip in the next composition of the next composition: 2 parts of clay, 1 piece of fresh cowboat and a little water to bring to a creamy state. It will protect the roots and give them the necessary meals for the first time.
Landing roses
It does not matter how the rose is planted, the main thing is to follow the two rules:
- The scene of the eyepiece (vaccinations) must be hidden from the sunlight, so it is necessary to bulk it for 3-5cm into the soil or put on the same level with the ground and heated a small slide of the Earth on the basis of shoots after landing;
- After the rains of the soil at the landing site somewhat will see, consider it, choosing a landing depth of roses.
To fill the pit, you can use duck up the land. But it is better to prepare a fertile mixture of about such a composition:
- 1 bucket of fertile garden land;
- 0.5 buckets humid, sand, peat, clay, dermal land;
- 1 handstone ash, bone flour and complex mineral fertilizer.
All components of the parts mix in large tank Or pour on a dressing film and mix.
First method. At the bottom of the pit pour the cooked mixture. On its surface evenly distribute roots roses so that they do not bend up. Gradually, fall asleep the roots of the earth, carefully sealing it with her hands. The seedling is good and, if after that it is noticeable that the earth is strongly asslaved and the vaccination site turned out to be too deep, then the seedling lift a little and add to the ground.
Second way. In the cooked pit, pour the water bucket. You can dissolve the pill in the stimulator of the root formation. Saplot omit into the pit on the desired depth and gradually fall asleep the roots with a cooked earthy mixture. The land immediately wet and does not form emptiness filled with air. With this method of planting the soil almost no deposit, moisture in the depths of the pit is enough for the development of the plant.
Roses decorate the garden, starting from May and ending October. That is why this flower is so love for most gardeners. In addition, it is not only beautiful in appearance, but also has a wonderful aroma. Grow this beauty, as well as to care for her at all. You just need to know some moments.
This article will help to figure out when it is better to plant roses: in spring or autumn. What is the difference between such a landing and what you need to know inexperienced gardener to equip your rosary correctly.
Choose a place under roses and prepare seedlings
Before you begin to find out when it is better to plant roses, in spring or autumn, let's find out how to prepare for this landing. To begin with, we will select the plot and prepare the seedlings.
Roses are poorly tolerated if the air around them is stirred or covered with drafts. The high arrangement of groundwater may also be destructive. Therefore, you should not put roses in lowlands. Choose an exalted place where your flowers will be able to be slightly in shading from the midday sun. Planting bushes should not be made thick. This contributes to the development of various diseases.
Saplings before starting landing need to be examined with special care. Any branches are subject to removal, which are too weak or anyway damaged, as well as those areas of the root system that are not entirely healthy. All roots are shortened by thirty centimeters. If they have already been shortened, you just need to update the cuts.
Before landing, the roots are lowered into water with the addition of root formation regulators, as well as substances that stimulate growth. Hold seedlings in such a solution should be about two hours.
Features of planting in spring
To decide for yourself, at what time of year it is better to plant roses, consider both options. First, let's talk about the spring landing. On the sale of seedlings can be found already at the very beginning of March. If roses are already bought, but they are still too early to plant them - do not despair. For a whole month you can store them in the basement or refrigerator, wrapped with a special cloth. If after this time the weather is still unsuitable, then you can dig roses in the ground completely and leave until warmth comes. A rose pit should be prepared for fourteen days before sitting. If the earth does not fall before landing properly, the sapling just go under the soil. In the depths of the pit there should be about sixty centimeters - for the future volume of the roots.
Fill the finished pit is necessary, based on the properties of the soil in your garden. If the soil is heavy - dilute the soil with sand with the addition of organic substances. And if the earth has a sandy structure, it is worth adding a little more clay.
If the humidity in your area is high enough, then the rose is planted into a dry hole, falling asleep with the ground and then already watering on top. Another way to plant is humid - suitable for dry terrain. The water is poured into the pit, mixed with the soil, and the seedling is lowered. Only then it is covered with the roots of the soil. If after irrigation, the Earth compacts and the hole is formed, it must be filled immediately, otherwise the root system can bend.
When the landing is completed, it should be enchanted with a compost or black soil. If the seedling has small sizes, it is better to completely fall asleep for two weeks. So you can protect shoots and kidneys. After two weeks, it must be discovered, otherwise the roots will appear on shoots and the rose will grow much worse. The tops of the sections must be slightly updated to stimulate the growth of the plant.
Is it possible to plant roses in the fall?
In the previous section, we reviewed all the subtleties of the spring landing. Found out how to prepare a pit and seedlings. But many gardeners are asked about whether it is possible to plant roses in the fall. The answer to this question is quite affirmative. The plant normally transfers the autumn fit. Well in the future grows and develops. But late landing has its own characteristics. And immediately arises the question of when it is better to plant roses in the fall. Best do everything planting until late September.
How to choose a seedling for autumn landing?
Buying seedlings in autumn time, it is important not to miss some details. Roots should be healthy and moistened. To check, live plant or not, care the root using a secaterator. If the cut turns out to be white, then the seedling is quite viable and you can safely buy it and disembark. If the color of the root cut is brown, then such a root must be cut off as long as the white color appears.
Soothes must be definitely. They should not be any damage. If there are leaves on a saplau, then you need to carefully examine them to make sure that pests are missing.
Peculiarities of late landing
If the question is when it is better to plant roses, in spring or autumn, more for you is irrelevant and you have chosen autumn period For planting seedlings on its site, you need to pay attention to some features.
Pit prepare the same way as previously described. Locking the rose, deepen the root neck into the ground for two centimeters. So you are reliable to protect your plant from winter frosts. Watering implies with special care. Pour half a place immediately and wait until all the moisture is absorbed. Now you need to pour again. Thus, all empties in the soil are filled, and the roots will take the position that they need. Watering continues to exercise regularly until the cold will come.
What time is the roses of plenty varieties?
Speaking about when it is better to plant, it should be noted, which is suitable for both spring and autumn, but in the spring period landing is more reliable. This is especially true of the middle strip of Russia.
True, the spring landing leads to the fact that flowers in development are delayed for fifteen days. Yes, and care will require this plant more thorough. But gardeners found the most convenient way. They acquire seedlings growing in containers, and simply put them on their plot late in spring.
When is it better to plant soil roses?
The soil roses include long-term flowering varieties that are not only well experiencing winter, but also quickly and strongly grow up on the parties.
So, what time is it better to plant roses of this type. If you live in regions different warm winter, it is best to plant these roses in autumn time.
For local areas where winter are cold and frosty, choose the spring fit.
If you are landing in the fall, the shoots are only required to shorten. In the spring, they are trimmed so much so that only two or three kidneys remain.
So, considering the question of when it is better to plant roses, in spring or autumn, we can conclude that, in principle, both options are quite viable.
There is already a matter of your preferences. Many specialists tend to believe that a more correct landing for roses - late, but many amateur gardeners declare that the bushes planted in the spring are growing, no longer inferior to last year.
Growing sad rose Requires patience and some skills from the flower. Exactly knowing the deadlines when planting roses in the open soil in the spring is it possible to get a durable and abundant flowering decorative perennial, which will become a real decoration of the garden or household territory.
Dates of landing by region
If roses are planted in the southern regions of our country in the autumn period, which allows the characteristics of the climate allows plants to have time to root before the onset of winter frosts, then in the northern regions, it is recommended to land exclusively in the spring. The main condition for the choice of landing timelines is soil warming on sufficient depth and optimum humidity Soil.
Rooted the planting material by shilling the "under the bank" throughout the entire summer period. The most favorable days of the descending moon in such signs, like a calf, Capricorn, fish, scorpion and cancer. Slicing planting material It is necessary to exercise in the morning when roses are most saturated with moisture.
It is best to harvest the cuttings from the middle part of the shoots after the first blowing. There should be no less couple of eyes on high-quality cutlets. Regardless of the variety of roses with which the cuttings are produced, the lower cut is to be made by a pair of centimeters below the kidney, and the upper cut is carried out directly over the kidney. Nizhny sheetoK is subject to complete removal, and the upper sheet should be removed by half.
Correspondence roses are advisable to plant from the greenhouse in the spring, in the first decade of May, after conducting weekly hardening of the planting material. Container is allowed to plant from the first day of May to the last decade of August.
IN middle lane Our country landing pink seedlings can be exercised in autumn or spring, but preferably the spring landing of young plants in open ground. In the spring, the roses should be squeezed from April 20 to May 20, and the autumn landing is carried out from September 1 to October 10, which will allow plants to root up to wintering.
How to plant a rose in the spring (video)
Technology landing
To plant roses correctly, the main agrotechnical recommendations should be taken into account:
- before boarding, it is advisable to process the root rose system in the clay "Boltushka", diluted from clay, manure and water in a ratio of 3: 3: 10 with the addition of a small amount of "corneeling" or other root formation stimulator;
- it is necessary to carefully inspect the seedling with an open root system, remove all dry and damaged areas on the above-ground part of the plant and on the root system;
- landing in the spring period implies shortening of shoots on shrub roses up to five kidneys, on the scraps of trimming is carried out on seven kidneys, and the plenty roses are shortened to ten kidneys;
- wild and park roses need spring shortening by a third of the total length of shoots;
- the depth parameters and diameter of the landing pit may vary depending on the size of the seedling and the type of its root system;
- when planting pink seedlings, it is necessary to prevent the root inflection of the root system and evenly distribute the soil nutritional mixture between the spoiled roots;
- the composition of the right landing soil mixture can be represented by two parts garden soil, two parts of the organic and part of coarse sand with the addition of bone flour and wood ash.
After planting, pink bushes are required to pour and mandatory to dip That will protect the foundations of shooting shoots and retain the moisture of the soil.
Subsequent care
Despite the fact that rose care may differ depending on the varietal and species features of the decorative culture, there are some general rules of cultivation:
- at the formation of buds, it is required to carry out a plant with a solution based on calcium Selitraprepared at the rate of 1 tablespoon of the drug on the water bucket;
- in the phase of active growth and development, decorative culture needs feeding herbal influences or mineral fertilizer solutions that need to be made every two weeks;
- since the second half of the summer it is undesirable to carry out pink bushes, as the plant may not have time to prepare for the winter period and die during severe frosts;
- it should be remembered that abundant feeders often cause increased green mass and stingy bloom, so it is recommended to systematically spray overhead rose bushes solutions based on "zircon", "epin", "ecosila" or humate sodium;
- rose bushes should be watered about once a week, but in too hot the frequency of irrigation events can be increased;
- watering are held in evening time, after sunset, rescued and warm in the sun with water, with a flow rate of 10 liters per each adult plant;
- in order to reduce irrigation events and water saving, it is allowed to carry out the soil around the pink bushes by organcient;
- after irrigation or rains, a shallow loosening of the soil is required, which does not allow to form soil crust and improving air intake to the root system of plants;
- in order to protect against damage to mildew twice a month, it is recommended to conduct a prophylactic spraying of the above-ground part of the rose bruises with a solution food Soda, divorced at the rate of 40 g per liter of warm water;
- the prevention of rose lesion by the colonies of the Tly is to process the bushes with tomato-garlic or onion irons with the addition of soapy crumbs.
To get abundant and long-lasting bloom, it is required to spend competent trimming of bushes on different stages Vegetation, as well as timely remove all the sworded inflorescences and the growing on the plants are shooting. On the winter In most regions of our country, roses are required to hide a spruce vegetable and nonwoven garden material.
The distance between the planted young plants is largely varied depending on the species features of the decorative culture:
- when planting seedlings of tea-hybrid roses, grandoforms and floribunds should stick to a distance of 25-30 cm;
- polyanthovaya landing I. miniature roses implies the minimum distance between plants at 15-20 cm;
- depending on the varietal features, the plenty and shrub roses need to be planted with a distance of 0.5-1.0 m.
As a rule, it is most likely to decide on the landing scheme of soil roses. In this case, it is recommended to focus on the width of the bush, which are necessarily indicated by the origin of the variety.
When planting rose seedlings with a closed root system, all the events should be performed very carefully, without destroying the earthen com, which will allow to guarantee a high level of survival of the plant. It is necessary to plunge the root neck about two or three centimeters.
Rose Care: Undercumbring (Video)
Seducted landing different varieties Stambling rose requires a lover-like-lover flower. Unlike bush grades, such roses are required to plant without dusting into the ground, as well as necessarily takes into account the side of the tilt of the stammer to carry out the shelter during the winter period. Right landing - The key to getting a healthy plant.
Choosing a healthy sapling
As a rule, seedlings are sold with an open root system, closed and seedlings in containers.
The advantage of acquiring bushes with open roots is that you have the opportunity to consider the development of the root system. Saplings higher category Have at least three stems, mean - at least two. Pay attention to the leaves and shoots, perhaps they will be noticeable signs of the disease. The root system must be well developed (the diameter of the root neck is about 8-10 mm). Carefully crush the nail one of the roots: the roots must be elastic, white.
Roses with cereal roots can only be purchased in the main landing period, since even short storage can lead to the drying of the root system.
Saplings with closed roots - a more reliable option. Their advantage - the protection of the root system from various damage during transportation, transportation.
You can buy seedlings in containers. However, check the strength of planting plants in advance, make sure that it has not been transplanted shortly before the sale. Plus container seedlings - a visual assessment of the color and structure of the flower.
Choosing a place to land roses
Favorable place:sun illuminated by the sun part of the garden. The sun should illuminate roses in the morning, while the day is needed a light shadow that covers them from the hot afternoon rays. It is also important to know that the varieties of dark shades can not be planted under direct sunlight - it is better to plant roses with a bright color gamut on this place.
An unfavorable place for roses:the northern part of the garden, blowed by the winds, as well as under the trees, close to the walls of buildings and fences. In addition, you should not post new young roses next to the old. If the bush is in a permanent shade, it leads to an intense vertical growth and further depletion of the plant. The cold wind dehydrates the leaves and rocks the bush, the output is the installation of a living hedge, it should be done so as not to shade roses.
Favorable soil for roses.Naked Su. clay soilsrich in humus, easily permeable for air and moisture. These are perfect soils, but are rare.
Less favorable soils for roseslight sandy and samp soils, in the winter they are often freezing, and in the summer they overheat, the nutrients are quickly washed faster. For the enrichment of the soil, overwhelmed dung, turf, peat and lime contribute. Require improvements and heavy clay soils, where moisture is delayed for a long time. Such soils should be drained, deposit, humid, compost, peat. With a lack of oxygen, breathing and root growth deteriorate, and excessive humidity slows down the development of the root system and leads to the death of the plant.
Unfavorablefor roses, the soil was converted, swamp, with a high level of groundwater. Excessive amount Moisture on the site will destroy the bush. Groundwater should not be higher than 1.5 meters.
Soil for roses is preferred weakness, pH (indicator of the soil acidity level) - 6, 0-6, 5. At a pH of about 7, the soil is considered neutral, at a pH below 7 - acid, and with a pH above 7 - alkaline. To increase the acidity in the soil, peat and manure are added to the soil, and ash, lime or dolomite flour are introduced to get rid of slags.
Kotals, saline and stony soils should be avoided. In areas with a cold climate and short summer roses need soil with an alkaline reaction.
It is not recommended to root the seedlings into the place where the bushes had previously grew. From the depletion of the soil here can be infected with pests and pathogens of diseases. If there is no other option, remove the soil with a layer of 70 cm and pour a new one.
Time for landing roses
Roses are planted Before the blown of the kidneys, as soon as the soil warms up to about +10 ° C (in the south - in April, in the middle lane - at the end of April - early May). During the spring landing, their roots shorten up to 30 cm. If the plant is purchased with already cropped roots, cuts need to be updated. Park, plenty, semi-fly roses roots are slightly shortened and removed the weak or damaged tops of the shoots. At the soil roses only update the roots sections. Progressing shoots from tall roses by 10-15 cm, the plenty - up to 35 cm. Immediately after the landing, you need to shorten their branches over the sixth kidney, and stem shoots over the third. In roses Floribunda leaves 3-4 kidneys, tea-hybrid - 2-3.
Roses landed in spring require a lot of attention: it is necessary to constantly monitor the moisture of the soil, thoroughly pronounce seedlings from the sun.
Spring landing is not recommended if the soil is wet and heavy: during the landing it is even more compacted, it is difficult to break it hard. It is strongly recommended to disembark in the spring of stumbling roses, as the flowers of this particular grade with difficulty tolerate the autumn fit.
Spring is the optimal period for landing roses and in mountainous areas.
Autumn roses land Starting from the first decade of September and until mid-October - so that the shoots managed to root before frosts. If a rose with an open root system is planted, then an earlier landing of such a seedling is undesirable: the plant will start spending too much energy on the growth of young shoots and kidneys, and as a result weaken and may not transfer the winter cold. And if roses fall down later, say, at the end of October, they may not have time to root, they feel bad and even die.
With autumn landing, only damaged branches and ends of the elapsed shoots are cut off. You can eliminate and unbearable shoots, leaving only 3-5 the strongest. Pruning shoots to several eyes is better to postpone until spring.
Roses landed in the fall, the first time is cut by the next spring, lubricating the scene of the garden with the garden.
In summer Roses can also be planted, but in this case the seedlings should be with a closed root system.
Throughout the season You can land roses grown in containers.
If the plants are bought in the fall, and frosts hit, it is already undesirable to plant them, it is better to shop to spring in a shady spot, lowering the slope to the ground 10 cm below the area of \u200b\u200bthe eyepiece. Dry roots will surely moisten, to do this, lower the seedling for two hours in a bucket with water. When sticking, the bushes are abundantly watered, the earth falls asleep, slightly plump and wrapped.
How to prepare roses to landing
The day before landing, roses are placed in the water for 10 hours. Before planting the roots, shorten up to 20 cm, and damaged cut to a healthy tissue. Remove all dried branches, the remaining cut. At the same time, severe shoots leave five kidneys, less severe - three, weak shoots are cut off, leaving no more than 3 mm at their base.
Depending on the variety in the spring landing, the shoots are cut as follows: tea-hybrid - up to 10-15 cm, in Floribundum - up to 20 cm, in the park only the tops. The plenty roses are trying to keep the screens. Miniature, soil, bushs do not need pruning.
For better survival, the roots should be moistened in the clay solution and the cowboy (3: 1), adding one tablet of heteroacexin to one bucket, previously dissolved in water.
With autumn planting, the seedlings are not cut off, only the tips of the shoots are removed to healthy wood, the roots are cut to 20-25 cm.
Subtleties of landing and preparation of roses
Saplings of roses are lowered in the well and spread the roots. Consider the right landing depth for graft roses. Place of vaccinations (thickening between roots and branches) must be 2-3 cm below the ground level. It is important that the earth fits tight to the roots. The seedling is abundantly watered, and when water is absorbed, check the position of the vaccination location. If the land of the village, the seedlock is lifted a little and add to the ground. Then plunge it on 20-25 cm and is dialed within 10-12 days. After landing, the soil moisture is followed. In dry weather, roses are watered every 4-5 days.
If the soil does not respond to the site necessary requirements To plant roses and you need to use a filling mixture, then the landing technique is a bit different. At the bottom of the pit, the mixture is poured with a mixture, and top with a layer of fertile land without fertilizers to protect the roots from burns. They put a bush, fall asleep it again soil without fertilizer and compact it. There is no other difference.
Around the planted cooks make a hole and, watering, thrice fill it up to the edges with water. After absorbing moisture, the Lunka falls asleep the earth. Then the seedlings plunge so that all shoots at a height of 20 cm were closed - it protects them from drying out. After the sprouts are achieved 2-5 cm, the roses are squeezed, and the soil is sprinkled (mulched) by humus, compost, straw or peat layer in 4-6 cm.
Curly roses should be planted so that the vaccination place is 8-10 cm below the surface level, which contributes to the development of graft escapes. After landing, roses should also be dipped. If a curly rose It will grow at the wall at home, then the distance from the wall should be at least 50 cm. The plant is planted at an angle to the wall.
It is recommended to plant a strambered rose by attaching her trunk to the backup, otherwise it will not stand one's own severity. The backup is installed in the pit before the plant is placed there. The backup must be durable and reach the crown to protect the plant from a strong wind. Rose is attached to the backup at the crown level firmly and so that the leash can not get along the trunk and the support.
The process of planting roses
Soil preparation for roses
On the spot where we plan to plant a rose, we should remove weeds, to accurately and easily support the soil, prepare landing pits. The soil where the rose will grow, you need to move to a depth of 40-50 cm and make large doses organic fertilizers At the rate of 1.5-2 kg of manure, compost for each bush. Mineral fertilizer is also made. Useful and making oven ash.
A rose pit digs up wide and deep (60x50 cm) so that after planting the place of the eyepiece at a seedling was 5 cm below the ground level.
For spring landing, landing pit is better to cook in autumn, for autumn - in spring. If it does not work, the pits need to prepare at least two or three weeks before landing. Making fertilizers and feeding are mandatory. In severe clay soils, sand is added and dripped, in sandy - humus. 10 days before the landing, the holes are digging with a depth of 50 cm for core-effect roses and 70 cm - for graft, and poured them with water. After water is absorbed, in landing pit There are about three shovel by humus mixed with earth. A week after these land procedures, seedlings can be planted.
10-12 days after the autumn planting at the plant, small young roots are formed in the plant, which are harvested and warm to the aircraft of shelter. In the spring, such roses develop simultaneously and the root, and the above-ground part, a strong bush is quickly formed. They bloom at the same time with old.
Plugging roses
Regardless of what time of year, the bush was planted, immediately after landing, it is plunged by the above-ground part, leaving only the upper part of the shoots is uncomfortable. This stimulates the rooting of a young seedling, with autumn landing protects it from frosts, and with a spring - from the hot sun. If the plants are planted in the spring, they differ them when young shoots begin to grow; If in the fall - then only after winter, when warming up. It is better to do it in cloudy or rainy weather, either in the evening.
Optimal distances between roses
When landing a large number of roses optimal distance Between them, largely depends on the size of the bush and its purpose.
Between miniature roses, the average distance is 35-50 cm, between the roses of the Grandiflower group, Floribunda and tea-hybrid - 60 cm, between the curly and park - from 60 cm to 1 m, between the fleecers - 1-1.2 m. If it is created hedge, roses need to plant close (approximately the distance between them - 40-50 cm), and for the shelter, the creation of the arch is planted one wound plant. Pleet varieties are better to plant 1-2 m at supports, arches.
It is not recommended to plant roses too thick: they will begin to root, blossom to blossom and lose foliage. In addition, with thickened landings it makes it difficult to care for plants, especially pruning and loosening. Rare roses landing is also undesirable: summer the soil around the bushes is heavily heated and dries.
Rose trim
Crop roses need annually in the spring, after a couple of weeks after the insulation is removed, the leaves have not yet blocked, but the kidneys are already swollen.
Spring trimming Roses are called molding. She is done by removing the shelter from plants, approximately in the mid-end of March.
Pruning should be carried out only with a sharp garden knife or a secateur. The slice should be 5 mm above the kidney with a slight inclination from it. The shoots are cut to healthy wood, on the kidney, located on the outside of escape.
Cut is needed old, sick, dry and weak shoots. The miniature roses do not only cut the old branches, but also shorten all the shoots. In large and multi-scale, weak shoots are cut over the fifth-sixth kidney, leaving the rest longer. Curly leaves only a few strongest shoots. Stambling roses, grafted to high trunks, cut all the shoots, leaving the screens of about 20 cm long.
Roses blooming once do not cut off. Roses Floribunda cuts the inflorescences to the first escape or on the kidney oriented outward. Tea-hybrid roses flowers are removed with two leaves. Source varieties of roses and rosehip enough to trim only for giving them beautiful view. So that these roses are large, it is necessary to remove part of the barriers.
Good and bad neighbors of roses
Roses, like people, - with some plants they are good, and with others - not very ...
Perfectly feels like a queen of flowers next to Clematis, decent satellites are also - velvets, calendula, sparking, crocuses, hosts, akvelus, gladiolus, petunia. Very nice if an edible or decorative garlic or lavender will grow next to the rose. Them essential oils Contain biologically active substances - phytoncides, which protect pink bushes from pests and diseases.
Does not prevent Roses Mac, Lavender, Narcissus, Wormwood Belaya, Flox, Astilba. Tulips, lilies, lilyers, dolphiniums, primroses and ferns will be neutral.
But near Geikhera, cramps, stamps, Astra, Iris, Peony, pansy eyes, fragrant peas, Turkish cloves, rose cereals feels very bad - they oppress it.
Reproduction roses
Roses for the garden can be multiplied by vaccinations (it is this method that is mainly practiced in Ukraine), as well as grain, siblings, division, stalling. And roses are vaccinated. Let us describe and other ways. 
Graft. Roses are vaccinated (with a stalk or eye) on the laying, which are grown from cuttings or rosehip seeds. In stock should have a powerful, well-branched root system, not to give wild pins, be frost, dull and moisture-resistant, durable and compatible with the lead. The main method of the eyepiece is in the T-shaped section. This vaccination is better to do in mid-July.
First, the root cervial is released from the ground, it is carefully wiped with a piece of fabric. Then there is a T-shaped section on the root neck. The vertical line should be about 2.5 cm, horizontal - about 1 cm. The bark is spread so that it is easy to insert a shield with the kidney.
The next step: from cuttings, sliced \u200b\u200bfrom the middle part of irregular shoots, from the bottom up cut off the shield (piece of bark with sleeping kidney) with a small layer of wood, which is immediately removed. Insert a shield with a kidney into a T-shaped section. The upper, protruding part of the shield, cut at the horizontal cut level. After that, the place of vaccination is tightly wrapped with an inhabituation film. After three weeks, we check the kidney on the survival rate. If she did not blacken, but remained green and a little swelling, the eyepiece went well. Prior to the occurrence of cold plants, it is necessary to glue the Earth for approximately 7 cm above the eyepiece, and the early spring squeezes slightly below the vaccination location. Top Cutting, retreating about 1 cm from vaccinations, cut off on a spike and remove the eyepiece film. After a couple of weeks, the kidney begins to actively develop, escape appears. For the formation of a bush, shoots pour over the third-fourth sheet. 
Digging Almost all types of roses are breed, but this method is best suited for soil and plenty. In the spring, the annual stem feels from the bush. In that part of it, which will be in the ground, make a small incision of the cortex directly at the eye, which will stimulate the root formation. The stem is then flex to the ground, laid in a groove with a depth of 10 cm, pinned, fall asleep with fertile land and regularly watered. The upper part of the stem with two-three kidneys should be above the ground in a vertical position. For encouraging the stem in the process of growth pinch. The next spring chain can already be separated from the maternal bush and transplant. 
Siblings. So usually multiply parking cornescoatous roses, which are capable of giving root offspring, resulting in the period of intensive growth and departing from the main bush in the form of vertical shoots. In the spring, after thawing the soil, they dig them, processed and put on another place.
Division bush — optimal way reproduction in the main pubis, park and miniature roses. Early spring, when the kidneys have not yet tried to grow, the bush is digging and divided into parts. Each of the parts should be saved the root system. Then plants are planted at a permanent place.
Shining - the simplest and available way reproduction. It is well suited for plenty, miniature, soil, schrabras, grandiflower, some tea-hybrid roses. Shining is a few species: green cuttings, weird and root.
Green shuntingcall still summer. Roses breed during the bootonization period. Well-developed, but not too thick annual shoots with color-colored semi-restless shoots during flowering period. The sharp knife is cut from the cuttings with a length of 5-8 cm, with two-time kidneys. The bottom sheet is removed and under its kidney at a distance of 1.5-2 mm make a slant slice. The upper cut is performed above the kidney per 1 cm. Next, the cuttings are treated with any fungicide to prevent fungal diseases, and then a substance that stimulates the root formation. Rooting the cuttings in greenhouses or in room conditions In pots under glass jars or glasses. The prepared substrate is treated with a weak solution of manganese. The cuttings are planted at a slope to a depth of 1.5-2 cm at a distance of 3-6 cm from each other, and the rows are 8-10 cm. The optimal air temperature for successful rooting is 22-25 ° C with a humidity of 80-90%. Periodically, the cuttings must be sprayed, but not to overcoat the land so that the cuttings do not die from the convergence.
As soon as the first leaves appear, the banks take off and the cuttings gradually harde. When the bush is strengthened, it is transplanted for a permanent place.
Reproduction with weathered cuttings. Well suited for curly and miniature roses. Warm cuttings are harvested in the fall, during rose trimming. For the workpiece take well-developed and overwhelmed smooth annual stems with a thickness of 4-5 mm. The upper part of the escape is removed. Cuttings cut sharp knife or a well-honed secateur, up to 20 cm long, with three-four kidneys each. The cut at the lower end of the cutting is done under the kidney itself; In the upper part of the cutle, the cut should be produced in the middle of intersals (at an equal distance between the kidneys). The cuttings are binding to bundles, spreading in varieties, wrapped in burlap and stored in wet sand until spring at a temperature of 1-2 ° C. In the spring, removes, update the cuts and immediately omit into the water. After driving out of the water, planted inclined into the soil and watered. Only the upper kidney remains visible. After landing, the cuttings are covered with banks or film. When the stalk is rooted, the shelter is cleaned.
Reproduction of semi-resistive cuttings It is carried out when the founding of young shoots the wood begins to ripen, hardening and the bark becomes brown. For a cutlets, the middle part of the semi-restless shoots in the flowering stage is used. The cuttings are harvested with a length of 7-10 cm with 2-3 leaves. Before planting cuttings, the substrate is watered. The cooked cuttings are planted into the ground to a depth of 1.5-2 cm. Boxes put on a darkened place and covered with a film. During the period of rooting is important high humidity air optimal temperature (20-22 ° C) scattered sunlight. Cuttings are driving the roots in 3-4 weeks.
Root cuttings They are harvested from underground parts of offspring, which remained in the ground in the form of rhizomes, or from the underground parts of rose bushes. The collected roofers are temporarily added in the basement or empty greenhouse, and in November, it is cut into parts with a length of 3- cm, laid into the boxes, filled with the ground, and add sheet humus. From above sprinkled with a layer of approximately 1 cm. For the winter, the boxes are cleaned into a cool place. The land must be moderatelylastic. Early spring drawers with cuttings exhibit in a cold greenhouse where the root system begins to develop and green shoots appear with leaves. In April, the cuttings are planted in a greenhouse or soil.
note
Usually in the first year all cuttings have a weak and shallow root system. Therefore, it is better to maintain them in the basement or cellar at a temperature of 0-5 ° C. And only in the spring rose planted on the ridges for rearing or permanently. You can feed young seedlings from cuttings with mineral fertilizers only when they come in and start growing.
Watering roses
In summer, roses are watered with estate and warm water: twice a week - young bushes, once - adults. After irrigation and loosenings make mulching - the ground around the bushes is covered with 5-8 cm layer of loose organic material. This will prevent evaporation and retain moisture in the soil in the summer drought, will reduce the number of weeds.
The structure of the rose bush
1. Flower. 2. Escape with a flower. 3. Bud. 4. Fruit. 5. Unparalleled sheet. 6. Pull adhesive sheet. 7. Young one-year escape. 8. Perennially leftiest escape. 9. Grocery kidney (eye). 10. Wild escape or wolf from a stock. 11. Place of vaccination. 12. Root neck. 13. Rhizome. 14. Main root. 15. Side roots.
The rose bush consists of an overnight part - the crown, and the underground - root system. The crown make up the shoots of last year, which are called skeletal. Espaces formed from their kidneys in the current season are designated as shooting I order. In turn, from their kidneys, the shoots of the II of the order are formed from their kidney, etc. In most varieties of roses from the lower kidneys of last year's shoots or from the root cervix, powerful fosters of substitution (wenters) are growing. In subsequent years, they will make the basis of the bush. At the end of the summer, the rose bush is represented by skeletal shoots and one-year - I, II and III orders. The root system in roses is urch and, as a rule, goes into the soil at a depth of 50-60 cm.
Diseases Rose
The most common diseases of roses: mildew, rust and black spot.
Puffy dew on roses - This is a disease that affects young shoots, leaves, buds. They are covered with a white rode, the leaves are twisted, the shoots are twisted. To cure a plant, in the fall, all the affected shoots must be trimmed, the leaves burn, and the soil is swapped. In the spring for sleeping kidneys spray 2% copper vitriol (200 g per 10 liters of water) or 3% iron Municipality (300 g per 10 liters of water).
Rust on roses. This diagnosis is made by rose if it appears on it rusty spots, And on its lower part - bright orange pads (cluster of the argument of fungus), which are becoming black by autumn, the leaves fall out. Rust defeated, cropped. Early spring up 
the dissolution of the kidneys, plants and the soil are sprayed around by any fungicide-containing copper. Summer spray with 1% burgundy liquid (100 g per 10 liters of water) or treated with the drug.
Black spottedness on roses - These are small rounded brown or black spots with a yellow halo. Over time, they merge, covering almost the entire leaf plate and causing premature leaves. If the disease is detected, patients fallen leaves are immediately assembled and burned. In the fall, the plants are fed by phosphorous-potash fertilizers (40 g of potash salt and dual superphosphate on 10 liters of water), watering only under the root. And in the spring, before the kidneys, bushes and the soil are blown around with 2-3% Bordeaux liquid (200-300 g per 10 liters of water) or 3% iron vitrios (300 g per 10 liters of water).
Pest rose
The big problem for roses are pests. The most common ones are: Whew rosal, web tick, shield, rotary sawmill.
The larvae and adult insects settle on the leaves and ends of the shoots, suck the juice and cause deformation. In damaged plants, buds are not disclosed. The pest is developing in ten or more generations.
In order to prevent the progression of the disease, the plant provides a flow of fresh air, respect the dosage of nitrogen-containing drugs. If the leaves are amazed, they are removed, and the plant is sprayed with soapy or nasty of nettle. Avoid the use of chemical preparations. 
These flying insects are sucking from buds, ready to dissolve, juice. Damaged petals are deformed, brown spots appear on them.
Cobbled tick. When the tick appears on the bottom side of the sheet is visible by a web, and the top is covered with yellow dots. Method of struggle: processing of wild ivy, acaricides of Sanmight and Caesar.
Shield can settle and dry and on wet areas. On the plant leaves the allocation on which the fungus appears afterwards.
Method of struggle: treatment with paraffin or mineral oil.
To combat trips, a spider tick and a flap, plant treatment with influences and solutions is used. 
Rosal sawl. Its larvae winter in the soil under the bushes of roses in a silk cocoon. In June, adult sawers come out of the pupae, and the female lays eggs under the skin of a young escape. In these places, the skin cracks, and the escape is twisted. The larvae feed on the leaves, sparking them from the edges, not the touch of alkali. Method of struggle: If the plant lesion is detected, the bushes sawer is treated with a solution of one of the following preparations: "Fufanon" (10 g per 10 liters of water), "Inta-Vir" or "Spark" (1 tablet on 10 liters of water). Preventive spraying is carried out before the afraid of the kidneys. In the autumn, you should collect and burn all the plant residues and pull the ground under the bushes.
Rose shelter for winter
In September, watering and feeding are reduced. Before the shelter (before frosts), the leaves are better removed (trim). They are covered with roses by the method of extracting the ground to a height of up to 40 cm, or wrapped in their agrofiber. Pleet roses are removed, laid on the material that will save the shoots from moisture, and wrap. Stambling roses before wrapped in the ground. Almost all varieties of park roses do not need in shelter.
Fertilizer and feeding
Since roses can grow in one place for many years, before planting the soil, the fertilizers are well refilled - for each square meter 6-8 kg hovering, up to 200 g of wood ash, up to 20 g of superphosphate and 30-40 g of potassium salt. To feed roses with mineral fertilizers when the seedlings come down and start growing. In late May - early June, a nitrogen fertilizer can be made (15-20 g / m 2), at the end of June and in July - nitroposku (20 g / m 2), in August - superphosphate (40 g / m 2) and potassium salt (20 g / m 2). This is the main feeding before flowering. If the rose fell with nitrogen-containing drugs, then from mid-July they are no longer introduced. Until the middle of July, magnesium sulphate (20 g / 10 l) is carried out. This is the time of sparing roses.
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