Zonal pelargonium is a bright decoration of the garden. Pelargonium is zonal. Photo

Pelargonium is known to many as geranium, this is a more familiar name for this plant. Pelargonium belongs to the Geraniev family. It fits perfectly into any conditions and becomes a real decoration in your interior.

The plant was introduced in the 17th century from the Cape Colony. And only aristocrats had the right to grow geraniums, but over time, the plant became available to many interested flower growers.


Pelargonium varieties photo and names

Her homeland is South West Africa... This species is a shrub about 9cm high. The foliage is more rounded with a dissection, the leaf surface is either smooth or slightly pubescent. The peduncle contains 2-3 flowers. The inflorescence is about 3.5 cm in diameter, whitish or with scarlet veins. Flowering begins in the spring.

V natural conditions grows in the southern parts of the Cape. The bush is profusely branched and reaches a height of up to one meter. The foliage is lobed with pubescence both outside and inside. The flowers have a pronounced pleasant smell. The inflorescences are collected in umbrellas with a raspberry and light pink tint. Flowering takes place in summer period.

It is a bush with a compact small trunk. The bush reaches a height of about 22 cm, the shoots are short, the foliage is more rounded in the shape of a heart. The leaf is slightly serrated in width with slight pubescence. Umbrella-shaped flowers up to 10 pcs. on a peduncle with a pleasant smell. The shade of the flower is from light to pink. Flowering occurs in the summer.

In nature, it is more common in the South-East of the Cape. Greened bushes in height reaching 1.5 meters. Branches filled with pubescence. The foliage is more rounded or lobed.

The surface of the leaf is either smooth, or with a slight pubescence along the surface with a stripe of chocolate. The flowers in the umbrella are abundant. The shade of the flowers is scarlet. Flowering lasts from spring to autumn.

Its inflorescences are similar to the unblown buds of tulips with 7-9 petals. This subgroup is distinguished by flowering knocked down in a bouquet. This group was withdrawn in 1966 in Boston.

Or ampelous ... This type of plant with drooping branches is up to one meter long. They are in demand for decorating balconies or in the summer for planting on a site as a ground cover.

Foliage in ampelous species can be different in shape. The color of the flowers ranges from white to burgundy or black. The foliage surface is smooth and ivy-like, rough and unpleasant to the touch.

An interesting view with inflorescences similar to small bouquets of roses with unblown buds.

Currently, many varieties of rosebud pelargonium have been bred. This type of pelargonium is distinguished by double inflorescences.

Represents a neat bush. Inflorescences are similar to rosaceous pelargonium. Flowers zonal pelargonium have a strong resemblance to roses. The height of the bush is standard up to 50 cm in height. The foliage has a rich green tint... Inflorescences full of terry varieties... The shade of the flower is a delicate crimson color.

It has double inflorescences with a delicate pink tint of flowers. Umbrellas of the ripple of flowers resemble a soft ball. This type of pelargonium must be pruned to form beautiful shape bush.

This species is represented by strong bushes covered with many leaves and double flowers scarlet hue. Dark venation appears on the leaf surface.

It is the most popular variety. On strong shoots, up to 20 flowers are formed on one umbrella. The diameter of the flower can reach up to 6 cm. The shade of the viva rosita flower has a bright crimson hue.

It is a small compact bush. Leaves light shade... The bush does not need shaping. The flowers are large, the shade of the flower is unusual with a transition of tone to a light orange color. Inflorescences are formed in the form of umbrellas.

This is a tulip-like plant with bright, pale pink inflorescences with a white tint. The flower petals have a corrugation along the edge. The flowers resemble unblown tulip buds.

The plant, which is resistant to temperature changes, does not require additional lighting. Flowering begins in late winter and lasts the entire season. No pruning required.

Pelargonium home care

Caring for the plant will not make you waste a lot of time. Fulfilling all the prescriptions, healthy blooming pelargonium will delight you all the time.

Lighting the flower prefers in enough... Then he doesn't lose decorative view... It is better to shade from direct sunlight, and in winter period if there is a lack of lighting, it is better to add additional light sources.

The temperature regime for pelargonium should correspond to 20 -25 degrees in summer and about 15 degrees in winter.

Watering pelargonium

Watering the plant prefers moderate constant in the summer, it is necessary to water it as soon as it dries upper layer soil. V winter time watering should be reduced only if the room temperature has dropped.

Pelargonium does not like moisture stagnation, as this adversely affects the root system. When caring for a plant, it is better not to water it again than to water it. Pelargonium has the property savings system moisture, so it can long time do without water.

It is not necessary to spray the plant as it damages the flowers. Air humidity does not really matter, the main thing is constant ventilation of the premises.

Fertilizers for pelargonium

It is necessary to feed the plants throughout the growing season from spring to autumn. It is preferable to use fertilizers in liquid form and in slightly moist soil.

In order for the plant to delight you with abundant landscaping, it is necessary to select fertilizers with the addition of nitrogen.

Magnesium sulfate for pelargonium

This fertilizer is used when it is necessary to obtain a constant abundant flowering.

Magnesium with sulfur helps in the formation of a large number of buds. The drug is used 15 g, per 5 liters of water. Only on the condition that water will be room temperature.

Also, the plant needs potassium and phosphorus for full development, feed it according to the instructions on the package. In the winter period, top dressing must be excluded.

Pelargonium transplant

Pelargonium is transplanted before the beginning of the growing season, in the spring. Young individuals require transplanting annually, adults less often. The transplant capacity must be selected a few centimeters more. If the container is large, the plant will refuse to bloom.

Transplanting pelargonium in the fall is not desirable, but if it is necessary, for some reason, then it can be done.

Soil for pelargonium

The land can be purchased ready-made in the store or prepared by yourself. To do this, it is necessary to lay on the bottom good layer drainage.

And it is also necessary to mix sheet soil, sod soil, sand and humus all in equal proportions.

Pelargonium pruning

Garden pelargonium must be cut off with the onset of cold weather, so that the plant can tolerate winter frosts normally. It is necessary to cut off half of its total height. Or transplant pelargonium for the winter in a pot.

Pruning pelargonium in the fall is necessary after it has faded.

Indoor pelargoniums are pruned to form a crown and lush flowering. This pruning is done at the end of winter, before the start of the growing season. After pruning, houseplants lay many new blooms to flower.

Pruning must be done with a good sharp blade and cut off the shoot obliquely giving the plant the desired shape.

Pelargonium propagation by cuttings

To do this, cut a stalk about 7 cm long, dry it a little for 24 hours and plant it in the ground. There is no need to cover. Care consists in the need for watering from time to time.

After about 30 days, the plant takes root. Cuttings can be rooted in water, and after the roots appear, planted in the ground. This method is used in late winter and mid-summer.

Pelargonium from seeds at home

Seeds are planted in light soil of peat and sand, a little of it, moistened before sowing. Seeds are spread on the surface and sprinkled with soil a little. Cover with glass or film, creating a greenhouse environment.

Opening periodically for airing and watering. The temperature for seeds should be kept within 23-25 ​​degrees. A few weeks after the emergence of seedlings, the plants dive and lower the temperature to 20 degrees and are kept in such conditions for about two months. And after that they are planted in required space... Seeds should be sown at the end of winter.

Diseases and pests

Pelargonium leaves turn yellow. There may be a number of reasons for this, the wrong soil, improper watering, a small capacity, or a lack of fertilizer.

Pelargonium leaves turn yellow and dry, this is due to a lack of moisture in the soil. It is necessary to make watering more regular.

Pelargonium does not bloom at home, the most common reason is not maintaining the dormant state of the plant. That is, in winter, it is necessary to lower the temperature of the plant to 15-18 degrees, and also to prune in a timely manner. Then the plant will lay a large number of buds.

Pelargonium is an ornamental plant, which is usually grown as indoor. However, this culture from the Geranium family can be grown in open ground... Pelargonium is also called geranium.

Due to its decorative qualities and healing properties, the plant fell in love not only with flower growers, but also with landscape designers. It comes from South Africa.

The flower got its name "zonal" because that there is a small ring or a speck of a different color on the leaf, which is called a "zone". With a lack sunlight The “zone” disappears and then reappears.

Pelargonium zonal is a straight shrub that is covered with thick leaves and small flowers... Flowers are collected in racemose inflorescences. The surface of the leaves is covered with fluff, there is a slight odor.

The plant appeared in culture at the beginning of the 18th century. Then these were tall flowers. Low-growing varieties of this culture were bred by the raft.

Zonal pelargonium has several varietal varieties:

  1. Rosaceae (Terry).
  2. Tulip-shaped.
  3. Cloves.
  4. Star-shaped.
  5. Cactus.
  6. "Deacons".

Pink (double) grade

The flowers of pink-colored (rose-shaped) pelargonium are visually similar to roses. They are densely doubled. These are drought-resistant, light-loving and heat-loving plants.

They are often used in landscape design... There are many varieties of pink-flowered pelargoniums.


Tulip

Tulip pelargoniums are distinguished by dense and abundant flowering... The flowers look like very small tulips. The variety was obtained in the second half of the 20th century.


Clove

Clove pelargoniums are similar to carnation flowers. Their petals are carved, and the flowers themselves are large in size.


Star-shaped

This variety of zonal geraniums has leaves, and the flowers are long, acute form... The flowers are like stars. These plants first appeared in the second half of the 20th century.


Cactus

The flower petals of cactus pelargonium are distinguished by a long and elongated shape, as well as twisting.

They often look slightly shaggy. There are similarities with the flowers of cactus dahlias.


View "Deacons"

"Deacons" is very beautiful view zonal pelargonium. The flowers are red, orange and pink.

The bushes of such geraniums are small in size. Double flowers are collected in dense and very large inflorescences.


Pelargonium "Deacon"

How to care for zonal pelargonium?

The plant is unpretentious in care... Even a novice florist can grow this geranium. But in order for the plant to please with its colorful and abundant flowering, it will take a little effort.

Temperature and lighting

The culture is light-loving, therefore put a pot with it, preferably on the south window.

However, it is necessary to avoid direct sunlight on the flower, as this is fraught with the appearance of impartial burns. Therefore, in bright sun, the plant needs to be slightly shaded.

Also pelargonium is a thermophilic culture... She cannot stand the temperature drop to 10 degrees.

The plant is resistant to heat... However, the combination of high temperatures and too dry air can dry out. Therefore, dry air can be compensated for by abundant irrigation.

In frosty periods, the flower must be moved away from the glass. to keep it warm. Reddened leaves can warn of freezing. You cannot leave the flower to winter on the loggia, it may die.


Humidity and watering

Despite the drought resistance of the plant, the soil should not be allowed to dry out... This leads to the fact that the flowering becomes less abundant. Watering is required when the soil is completely dry.

If the apartment is hot (from summer sun or from heating appliances and radiators), then watering is required daily or once every two days. When on the street overcast, and the apartment is cool, then you need to water no more than once every three days.

Thus, it is necessary to water geraniums more often in summer than in winter, since the irrigation regime directly depends on the temperature regime.

Overflows are detrimental to the plant. Excessive moisture will lead to rotting of the root system.

The air in the room must be sufficiently humid... At the same time, it is not recommended to spray the plant to increase humidity, since water droplets on the leaves and stem are dangerous for it.

To increase the humidity, you can put the pot in a tray of water or put a jar of water next to it.


Soil and fertilizing

Zonal pelargonium is not demanding on the ground... It is important to ensure good drainage layer on the bottom of the container.

This is necessary so that water does not stagnate in the ground, since stagnant water leads to rotting of the root system.

For indoor pelargonium, a neutral or slightly alkaline soil is ideal. It can be purchased ready-made in the store, or you can cook it yourself.

So, experienced florists prefer to do the soil themselves... For cooking, you will need (these components must be taken in a ratio of 2: 2: 2: 1):

  • humus earth;
  • sod land;
  • leafy land;
  • sand.

There are also other options for preparing the substrate (these components are recommended to be taken in equal parts), for example:

  • compost soil;
  • peat land;
  • humus earth;
  • sand.

What kind of pot is needed for the "rose"?

It's better if the roots are a little cramped... This will promote more abundant flowering.

Much better use not plastic, but clay pots because the roots breathe better in them.

Geranium propagation

Pelargonium zoned propagated in two ways: cuttings and seeds.

In order to propagate a flower using cuttings, it is necessary to cut off the tops of the shoots, which have at least three leaves.

This must be done from February to April. It is also possible in the middle of summer. It is advisable to dry the cuttings for several hours.

You can root a stalk:

  • in water;
  • in peat tablets;
  • in the substrate (a mixture of peat and sand with large granules).

Cuttings must be protected from excessive moisture, and it is also important to provide good and long-term lighting. If there is not enough sunlight for the flower, then lamps can be used.

After the cuttings are rooted, you can begin to make top dressing, which are intended for seedlings.


When several leaves appear, the seedlings can be transplanted. in other containers with fresh substrate.

Fresh substrate should be more nutritious in composition. In addition to peat and sand, a little humus should be added to the soil.

Sowing seeds is required from February to March. When the seedlings sprout, they will have enough sunlight.

To make seeds germinate faster, they can be scarified. Although they usually sell already scarified seeds.

Sow seeds to a depth of no more than 5 cm... The boxes are covered with glass and kept at a temperature of about 20 degrees. The substrate must be periodically moistened and ventilated.

It will take about two weeks for the seeds to germinate. When at least two leaves appear on the seedlings, they need to be dived.

Care for seedlings in the future should be the same as for geraniums, which are propagated by cuttings.

Sowing pelargonium, picking it and replanting:

Diseases and pests

Like many other crops, zonal pelargonium can be susceptible to various diseases. Pelargonium is also sometimes affected by pests.

The most common pests:

  • whitefly(to cure a flower, you can simply wash it with soap and cover it with a bag for a while. If the situation is running, then the flower needs to be treated with "Aktara");
  • aphid(treatment is carried out with insecticides);
  • spider mites.

One of the most common diseases is black leg. In the case of this disease, the plant is almost impossible to save.

Causes: excessive soil moisture, low temperature air and an oversized pot.

The development of fungal infections and mold is also likely. Yellowing of leaves, education on them gray bloom and brown specks - signs of a fungal infection... The plant must be immediately treated with a fungicide solution.

Rust may appear as a brown coating or white rings on the leaves.

If you follow all the rules for caring for pelargonium, then diseases are not terrible. However, at the first signs of the disease, it is necessary to take action in time.


Zonal geranium is very popular all over the world., including in Russia. This is due to the effective decorative properties of the flower, as well as unpretentious care.

There are several varieties of zonal pelargoniums. Among them are simple, semi-double and double types.

Mar 29 2017

Home (indoor) geranium or pelargonium - home care

Indoor plant pelargonium (popularly called home or room geranium), belongs to the Geranium family. This family includes 5 genera and 800 plant species. Geranium is the most numerous genus, and pelargonium is the most popular species from the Geraniev family. Therefore, when they talk about caring for geraniums at home, they most often mean pelargonium. We will help you figure out what are the similarities and what is the difference between these plants.

Their main similarity is that both plants belong to the Geraniev family. And in appearance they are similar. The shape of the seed pod resembles the elongated beak of a crane in both species. Their erect stems and leaves covered with glandular small hairs, located opposite or alternately, are also similar. Both plants have a characteristic specific smell, bright appearance are medicinal. They are unpretentious, hardy, love good lighting, they are easy to grow and propagate.

What is the Difference Between Pelargonium and Geranium

No one was able to cross these plants with each other and get seeds - they have different genetic characteristics. Pelargonium is an alien from the African savannah, and geranium is native to the northern hemisphere. Therefore, thermophilic pelargonium prefers warm apartment windowsills, and geraniums bloom in gardens and meadows until frost. In central Russia, geraniums, meadow and forest, are found everywhere, calmly endure the winter without shelter. Only in the Far Eastern and northern regions, it does not grow - there are too harsh climatic conditions for it. Geranium flowers have 5 or, less often, 8 petals. Geranium flowers of the correct shape. Home geranium, pelargonium, has five petal flowers irregular shape: the upper two petals are separated from the lower three and slightly larger than them. In geraniums, flowers are usually single, but sometimes they are collected in inflorescences. Geranium has ten developed fertile stamens. In Pelargonium, flowers are collected in spectacular umbrella-shaped inflorescences. Pelargonium has no more than seven fertile stamens. The rest are underdeveloped. Geranium flowers are painted in a wide variety of shades, usually blue-violet. Only scarlet color never occurs in geraniums. Pelargonium, on the other hand, does not have blue tint colors. They are usually white, red and pale pink. Geranium can be found in every garden - summer residents love it very much. Popular varieties geraniums: Gorgeous, Georgian, Oxford. It blooms from early summer to the very frost. And pelargonium pleases with its flowering at home almost all year round... In the summer, it is quite possible to take it out onto the balcony or even into the garden. But with the onset of a cold snap, pelargonium is returned to the house on a warm windowsill.

The most favorite varieties of pelargonium

Fragrant is a lush bush with small leaves and vibrant flowers. Highlights pleasant aroma lemon or mint. Fragrant pelargonium with the smell of nutmeg, orange or apple is less common. However, the flowers are inconspicuous, and the leaves are rough and flat. Of these, there are essential oils and aromas for cooking. The leaves themselves are not used for food!

Royal is a kind of shrub with a short stem, large flowers and serrated leaves without a zonal pattern. Blooms very beautiful flowers but not for long. This group of pelargoniums was developed in the 60s of the last century.

The Angel is a hybrid of the curly variety that belongs to the group royal pelargonium... Similar to the royal, but smaller, more compact, with small leaves and flowers that look like pansies.

Ampelous or ivy-leaved - this pelargonium has thin stems and an ampelous manner of growth. Its leaves are like ivy, and the flowers are simple and terry, and even in the form of rosettes.

Zonal - this bush has a developed upright stem and dark circles on the leaves, which divide the leaf plate into multi-colored zones. Flowers are simple and double. They are not large, collected in inflorescences-umbrellas of white, red or pale pink color. Many people call this pelargonium geranium.

The features of caring for geranium and pelargonium differ no more than caring for garden plant from caring for a houseplant.

We will consider growing in indoor conditions home geranium - pelargonium. It depends only on the care of its owner how long the external attractiveness of the plant will remain, and lush and bright inflorescences pelargoniums will decorate the interior of your apartment. In a home environment decorative varieties pelargoniums retain their spectacular appearance for at least five years. But there were cases when pelargonium lived and bloomed for ten or more years with good owners. We will introduce you to simple conditions under which your pet will delight you with her beauty for a long time and strengthen your health.


Among the decorative flowering home flowers, there are very few representatives that are so attractive and, at the same time, unpretentious in care, like pelargonium. Now you will see for yourself.

Content temperature

All year round, pelargonium feels great at normal room temperature. She does not require greenhouse maintenance, she is quite patient with high summer temperatures and in winter she will be comfortable on a cool windowsill, only her leaves should not touch cold glass.

Lighting

Pelargonium loves well-lit places for both potted cultivation and its summer maintenance in the garden in a flower bed. On the windowsill, in the hottest summer days, it is advisable to cover its leaves from the scorching sun. In the rest of the year, she is only happy with sunlight, since with a lack of it, the leaves and flowers become smaller and become brittle. On the balcony, if it is located on the south side of the apartment, pelargonium will bloom all summer. On the northern windows in winter, pelargonium may not be enough natural light... Its shoots will begin to stretch, decorativeness will be lost. In this case, you will have to resort to additional lighting using a fluorescent lamp or phyto lamp.

Air humidity

Pelargonium does not like too humid indoor air. Does not tolerate spraying of leaves and flowers. Ventilate your room often. Bring flowers to balconies and verandas in the warmer months Fresh air.

Watering

In the summertime, pelargonium needs to be watered daily, but little by little. The water should be at room temperature and settled. Avoid over-wetting the soil and getting water on leaves and flowers. Drain excess water from pallets. Do not water until the top layer of the substrate is dry. This will save your beauty from root rot and plant death. In winter, pelargonium is watered less often, a couple of times a week.

The soil

The soil for pelargonium should be fertile and loose with a pH of 7 or slightly less. For home keeping in pots, you can purchase a special potting soil mixture for flowering geraniums or pelargoniums. The soil can be prepared independently from a mixture of garden soil, sand and peat in equal amounts. Disinfect the substrate before use - heat it or steam it. And don't forget to put a good layer of expanded clay or pebble drainage on the bottom of the pot. In order for the roots of pelargonium to have a good access of oxygen, the soil must be loosened both in the pot and in the garden.

Pot

Young pelargonium likes the pot to be small, which is 10 cm wide and 10 cm long.Accordingly, an adult beauty will bloom better when her root system will braid the entire earthen ball in a flower container. You can plant two plants in one pot at the same time - with different, contrasting, flower colors, for example, with white and red petals. It will be very beautiful.

Top dressing and fertilizers for pelargonium

Pelargonium needs to be fed from time to time. Especially when she is sitting in a small pot. It does not tolerate organic fertilizers, especially fresh ones, feed with mineral fertilizers. On sale there are special feeding for flowering ornamental plants... Apply them during vegetation and flowering, spring and summer, every 2 weeks. There is no need to feed pelargonium in autumn and winter. A good feeding for pelargoniums is iodine water: in 1 liter. 1 drop of iodine is dripped in separated water, stirred. Water the wet (after the main watering) soil near the walls of the pot, so as not to accidentally burn the roots. Geranium will immediately respond with a stormy and gorgeous flowering.

Pelargonium transplant

If the root system of pelargonium does not fit in the pot, its roots look out of the drainage holes, and the plant withers soon after watering - it's time to transplant the geranium into another pot. Take a pot 3-4 cm larger than it was, preferably an earthenware one. Pour boiling water over it to avoid fungal or viral diseases his former lodgers. As with any plant, transplanting for pelargonium is stressful. Therefore, try to transplant the plant in new pot gently, together with the ground, without damaging its root system. And carry out this procedure no more often than once every two to three years. You can only pour fresh nutritious soil into the flower pot from time to time.

If you have a large pot, plant two or three pelargonium bushes in it at once. In close quarters, but not offended - together they will bloom better!

Pruning home geraniums

Do not cut the pelargonium during summer flowering. Just cut off the faded umbrella-shaped inflorescences so that they do not draw on moisture and nutrients. In the fall, it happens that pelargonium turns into a voluminous shapeless bush, completely devoid of attractiveness. When flowering stops, home geraniums need to be pruned. Moreover, the more you cut it off, the more shoots will appear next spring, the richer and thicker its crown will be, the more abundant and longer pelargonium will bloom on next year... You should not be afraid of deep pruning, because there are plenty of sleeping buds on the bare stem, which will start to grow even in winter.

Pruning is especially necessary for zonal pelargoniums, they, more often than others, are found on flower shelves and the window sills of amateur florists. The royal varieties have a slightly different agricultural technique, so such plants are formed more accurately and only in the second year after planting. Pelargonium is not pruned in winter. In winter, the plant's defenses and metabolic processes are weakened. Cuttings cut at this time do not take root.

After winter, pelargonium usually loses its attractiveness and decorativeness. Depending on the care and place of its maintenance, individual branches are pulled out, others are bare. At the beginning of spring, in no case in winter, it is necessary to put its crown in order - to do pruning. Do not let the bush grow too much - try to give the crown a beautiful look. It is better to cut out large old stems, leaving only young shoots. If the shoot has six or more leaves, it needs to pinch the top in order for the bush to become more luxuriant. For the same purpose, when growing pelargonium from a cutting, after 8 - 10 leaves, the growth point is removed. When grown from seeds, this is done a little earlier, after 6-8 leaves. Shoots that grow from the upper leaf axils are removed, leaving only shoots growing closer to the root. Keep in mind that pinching and pruning the plant will delay flowering for a while. Engage in these treatments in early spring.

Reproduction of room pelargonium

Home geranium, i.e. pelargonium, propagated by seeds and vegetatively.

Cuttings

This is the most simple and quick way- with the help of cuttings. In addition, the characteristics of the mother plant are completely preserved, and the first flowering already occurs in the first summer after rooting. Cut the cuttings from the tops of an adult plant, 7-10 cm long, with four to five leaves. Make a cut obliquely under the kidney. Tear off the bottom pair of leaves. Let the cuttings lie in the air for two to three hours so that the sections dry out and, as it were, tightened with a film. Sprinkle them with crushed activated carbon and plant in a prepared, slightly damp, substrate. Do not cover with anything. Place the pots in a well-lit place, but not in the sun! Do not water for 24 hours. The next day, start watering very carefully, drop by drop, to prevent rotting of the shoots. Good roots should appear in a month. Young pelargonium can be transplanted into a permanent pot and looked after like other plants. To make the bush grow lush, pinch at the point of growth at the top.

Sometimes, cuttings are placed in a glass with settled warm water. With this method, rotting of cuttings is more common. We recommend adding an activated carbon tablet to the water. And store a larger number of cuttings for rooting at once, in case they die.

If your pelargonium has grown too high over the winter, leave only part of the trunk with the lower young rosettes in the pot, and cut the rest off and use for breeding. We have already described above how to root the tops of the shoots. Cut the middle of the trunk into pieces so that each has several buds. Roots will grow from the lower buds, and shoots with leaves will go from the upper ones. Root the parts of an adult healthy trunk cut on a piece in the same way: dry it, treat the cut with crushed coal, it will not hurt to dip Kornevin into powder, then plant it in the ground. Do not flood young plantings - they must breathe. In early spring the survival rate of cuttings is almost 100%.

Seed propagation

Pelargonium grown from seeds is believed to grow more luxuriantly and bloom much better than grown from cuttings. May be. But this method is more complicated and time consuming. Buy seeds in special trusted stores. Sowing time is January or February. Spread the seeds slightly wet surface substrate into the container, close the lid. You can use another container, then cover it with foil or glass. Place in a warm, dark place. The temperature should be in the range of 20 - 25 gr. After a week or two, the first shoots should appear. Move the container or other container with seedlings to a bright place. Open the lid of the container slightly to ventilate the greenhouse and remove condensation accumulated there. When two true leaves appear on the seedlings, they need to be cut out. It is desirable to lower the temperature of further content to 16 - 18 gr. After a couple of months, the grown pelargoniums can be planted in small pots and started to care for them like adult plants.

Dividing the bush

Sometimes adult plant propagated by dividing the bush into two approximately equal parts. To do this, remove the plant from the pot. Shake off the soil from the roots. Gently straighten and distribute the root system in two. With a sharp, clean knife, they divide the bush into two parts. Slices must be sprinkled with crushed charcoal or activated carbon. Each part of pelargonium is planted in its own pot according to all the rules successful landing... Healthy, robust plants will quickly regain their shape and bloom that summer.

Domestic geranium does not have a pronounced rest period. She does not shed her leaves, but she drinks less water and rarely blooms. During this period, it is advisable to water it less. Once every 10 days is enough. And do not feed. You will begin to fertilize in the spring with complex fertilizers with nitrogen, and in the summer with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. But, on - a little. It is also desirable to reduce the temperature to 20 grams. in the afternoon. Below 12 gr. it is generally better not to lower the temperature, even at night. It is good to put a flower pot on a cold windowsill - the coolness from the window glass will be enough for a calm winter life of home pelargonium.

Diseases

Blackleg

If the base of the stem turns black, it begins to rot - your pelargonium has contracted a disease that is terrible for indoor flowers -. Most likely, you allowed waterlogging of the soil and hypothermia of the plant root system. We are sorry, but pelargonium cannot be saved. The bush must be destroyed along with the earth. The pot can be disinfected and used again.

Gray mold

On the leaves of pelargonium, a gray mold appeared in the form of a plaque or cobweb. On the stems - dark spots... This happens with abundant watering, when the soil dries out poorly. Roots suffer without air. Chances are, you have heavy soil or poor drainage. Therefore, Pelargonium developed a disease - gray mold. It is caused by fungi and is therefore treated with antifungal drugs, fungicides.

Leaf rust

Small yellow-red spots appeared on the leaves of pelargonium, which eventually turned into stripes. The leaves turned yellow, withered and fell off. It - fungal disease... It appeared from high humidity in the room, uneven and irregular watering. But, perhaps, the fungi came to you with contaminated soil. Remove rusty leaves and shoots. Spray the flower 2-3 times with a break of 10 days with fungicides, such as oxyhom, Abiga Peak and others.

Biologics, such as phytosporin, do not treat rust!

Powdery mildew

Mealy specks appeared on the leaves of pelargonium and on its flowers. They are easy to remove, but they appear again and again, grow, become gray, dense, and then turn brown. The leaves dry up, the flowers fall off. The plant stops developing. Perhaps your room is very high humidity air and heat. You may have overfed pelargonium with nitrogen fertilizers. Instead of blooming more profusely, the flower got sick. Ventilate the room regularly, do not spray the plants, do not feed it with fertilizers containing nitrogen supplements. Spray the flower with a solution of water with milk and iodine or fungicides such as topaz or oxych.

Other problems with home geraniums

Other problems with home geraniums, why the leaves turn yellow and what to do in this case:

  • If your pelargonium leaves turn yellow and dry, especially the lower ones, the soil lacks moisture. Increase watering, after which always loosen the soil. Remove the yellowed leaves with your hands, do not use scissors.
  • If the leaves at the top of the bush are damp and loose, you are watering your flowers too often and too much. Adjust watering, drain excess water from the pan. Water when the topsoil dries a little.
  • If the leaves of the pelargonium turned red, and it suddenly stopped blooming, it is most likely that a cold snap has come, and the plant has frozen. Move it to a warm place and you should be fine.
  • If a pink tan from sunlight appears on the leaves of blooming pelargonium, this is a normal phenomenon, common for summer cultivation in flower beds.
  • If the leaves of the pelargonium began to fly around, and the lower part of the trunk is bare, the pot is probably in a dark place. The plant lacks lighting. Move it to a sunny windowsill, and the bush will grow back and start blooming.
  • If pelargonium is actively growing, does not get sick, there are no pests, but does not bloom, then the reason lies, most likely, in the too high temperature of the air surrounding the flower. Pelargonium is thermophilic, but it is hard for her to be constantly in 30-degree heat. Indoors at a high temperature, pelargonium refuses to bloom. Take it out into the fresh air - on a balcony or veranda - we are sure it will bloom there.
  • Another reason for not blooming can be too large a pot or too much nitrogen fertilizer in the soil. Pelargonium fattens, increases the mass of green leaves to the detriment of flowering. Remove the bush from the pot, gently shake off the soil, inspect the root system. Now match the pot to the size of the plant's root system. Do not forget about good drainage, loose soil in which you plant your flower again. Water sparingly but regularly. Place in a well-lit area. After some time, pelargonium will definitely bloom.

Pests

Since ancient times, people have been treated with indoor plants, specially grown those that are most suitable for them for medicinal purposes. Pelargonium has a lot magical properties. Flower pots with geraniums, they often decorated window sills in the bedrooms and kitchens of our grandmothers. The aroma of pelargonium has been proven to help relieve headaches and stress. At the same time, ants and flies do not like their smell. Decoctions of the leaves are used to treat the gastrointestinal tract and nervous disorders in humans. They are drunk during insomnia. In addition, they treat joint pain, conjunctivitis, hypertension and much more. But there are contraindications - consult your doctor before prescribing this or that treatment for yourself.

Since ancient times, pelargonium (previously everyone called it geraniums) was grown in every family. It was believed that she protects the house from damage and the evil eye, protects the family from conflicts and quarrels, contributes material well-being its owners. Where grows blooming geranium- love and harmony live there! Who knows?! But already for the fact that it is abundant flowering plant so attractive and completely unpretentious - you should have it at home!

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Pelargonium treats well, so it should be watered sparingly and the soil should not dry out. Although drought can tolerate normally.

But it is better not to plant it in the open sun either: optimum temperature for growth and development in pelargonium + 15 ° С, therefore, the semi-solar side is considered the best, or it will still have to be shaded.

Depending on the species, pelargonium has a number of individual characteristics, but the principle of planting and caring for by and large is the same. To root green cuttings in the garden, you need to plant them in a mixture of peat and river sand. But you can also root it at home using.

Pelargonium care

Dormant period

Once in the garden, pelargonium blooms all summer. But like any living organism, it gets tired, so let the plant rest for about 1.5-2 months until spring, put it at rest. To do this, do not water pelargonium and do not feed mineral fertilizers... By spring, she will wake up and give flowering again. There are many opinions about the wintering of pelargonium. But I would not dare to leave it in the garden: for the winter, the bush must be transplanted into a pot and taken home.


Pelargonium should not be left in the garden for the winter. Potty her and take her home

Fertilizers

During the period of active pelargonium, use complex fertilizers for flowering plants.

Pruning

In the spring, so that pelargonium actively starts to grow and pleases abundant lush bloom, the tops of the shoots can be pinched. But the tops do not have to be thrown away, they can be rooted and new plants can be obtained.


The tops of the shoots need to be pinched so that next year the bush is lush

Reproduction of pelargonium

Pelargonium propagates by seeds and vegetatively (green cuttings).
  • Many hobbyists root the cuttings right in the winter, for this they plant the cuttings in sand or perlite and moisten them. Cuttings are cut from mother plants, wintering at home at a temperature not higher than + 12 ° C. Cuttings are rooted from January at + 16 ° C, already at this temperature the plant begins to give roots. Then the temperature is increased to + 20 ° C, the formation of a full-fledged root system of the cuttings takes about 3 weeks. When the root system is formed, transplant the young plants into small pots, take them to the greenhouse for hardening and growing. You can also grow on the window.


Pelargonium cuttings are usually rooted in perlite, but they root well even in water
  • Seeds must be sown in containers also in winter, from December to February, soil mix should consist of river sand and peat or one peat. It will take about 3 weeks to wait for seedlings, all this time the soil must be regularly moistened. It is advisable to cover the top of the container with a film. When the seedlings reach the phase of three true leaves, they are dived into separate containers. To make the plant more bushy, pinch it over the 6th leaf.

Types of pelargonium

The genus Pelargonium has about 250 species that grow in South Africa... In our country, the most widespread, which have given rise to many varieties and hybrids, are the item zonal and the item ivy-leaved.

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Pelargonium zonale

Outlined leaves with a pattern of this perennial pelargonium can be light or dark green in color. In a number of well-known sources it is written that this species is annual, but I would say that it simply does not hibernate in the open field. I dig up and transplant it into a pot, so even in winter my pelargonium blooms.



In winter, mother liquors are stored at temperatures up to + 23 ° C. When the plant has faded, the shoots are cut to 10 cm and the container is transferred to a bright, cool room with a temperature not exceeding + 15 ° C. By the way, this species tolerates drought well, has many new interesting varieties and hybrids. Bright color (white, red, dark red, crimson, pink) and spherical umbellate inflorescences with simple or double flowers - that is why flower growers love this pelargonium so much. is able to decorate not only a window sill, but also hanging baskets, tubs and containers, flower beds, ridges or borders.

Pelargonium of this species does not tolerate excess moisture, it can withstand temperatures down to -6 ° C, and at temperatures below + 9 ° C, the leaves turn yellow. Varieties and hybrids affect the height of the plant: for example, the variety "Meteor" it is distinguished by its short stature, therefore it is used for borders. And the series "Rocky Mountain" you can find vigorous varieties, and besides, unusual shades.

Medium-sized unusual varieties

  • "Rumba Fire"- fiery, I would say, bordering on the "poisonous" saturation of red, attracts attention from any point of view.


  • "Bravo Pastel"- petals white, smoothly turning into pink, with a delicate raspberry eye


Pelargonium zonal "Bravo Pastel"

Pelargonium ivy (Pelargonium peltatum)

The favorite of landscape designers for horizontal gardening. Juicy, fleshy leaves, sometimes framed with a red border, attract attention. They do not smell and do not have pubescence, but outwardly they are somewhat reminiscent of leaves in shape. Shoots of this species are falling, up to 90 cm long. Although they can be 30 cm, depending on the variety.


Pelargonium ivy "Apple Blossom Rosebud"

Again, many sources write about the one-year development cycle of this species, but transplant it into a pot in the fall, and it will live on the window until the spring planting back into the garden. It has a semi-shrub appearance. Flowers on long peduncles, gather in few-flowered thyroid inflorescences. They can be terry or semi-double. The color is white, pink, lilac and red.

Most popular varieties

  • "Mustang"- deep dark red color.
  • "Pygmy"- a relatively new series with salmon pink, cherry, pink flowers.


  • "Red Pandora"- a variety of incomparable tulip pelargonium. Its cherry-red flowers will impress even an experienced gardener.


Pelargonium ivy "Red Pandora"

Meanwhile, many breeders subdivide ivy-leaved according to the strength of growth and ampelous colors. In the group of medium-sized varieties, there are many new lilac and lilac shades.


Pelargonium "Lady Ilchester"

Most varieties have fluffy double flowers and variegated colors.


Pelargonium "Richard Hogson"

Low-growing varieties and hybrids also have a lot of new and interesting things. Juicy bright colours and greens, coupled with a small height, are increasingly becoming welcome guest in the garden. I love simple bright colors.

Variety "Belladonna" as if he had descended from retro pictures of the last century, their exquisite doubleness and tenderness of color scheme becomes a tidbit for a gourmet.


Pelargonium "Belladonna"

There are varieties whose flowers are distinguished by simplicity, but they contain the secret of color change from temperature. For example, flowers of the variety "Cascade White", bronze in heat and cold, under normal conditions become familiar orange colors.

Pelargonium ivy is more sensitive to frost than zonal. It starts to freeze out already at -4 ° C. When planting in the ground, the distance between the plants is taken to be about 25 cm, and if containers or boxes are used, then about 15 cm.


Pelargonium ivy

Finally, I want to say that in the West, gardeners have long been using ivy pelargonium for arched structures... A favorite technique is also a pyramidal structure: to create such an object, boxes are used, which, like steps, are placed on top of each other.


Do you have pelargonium growing?


Pelargonium zonal is one of the most popular indoor plants... Not so long ago, this flower was forgotten by flower growers and it could be found only on the windowsills in educational institutions. Today, the fashion for pelargonium is returning.

Pelargonium zonal - varieties

This species got its name for the characteristic coloring of the leaves. A border runs along the edge or in the center of the zonal pelargonium leaves. There are varieties with a wide or thin edging, darker or lighter than the main green color, sometimes these are spots of a purple or red-brown hue. Conventionally, all varieties are divided depending on the characteristic features:

  • star-shaped varieties have petals with pointed edges, can be simple or double;
  • cactus-flowered varieties are distinguished by petals twisted along;
  • rosaceous varieties have chic densely double inflorescences, which, when opened, are very reminiscent of rosebuds.

Also, varieties of zonal pelargonium are distinguished, depending on the height of growth, from miniature to tall. The latter are often used for small ornamental trees. There are varieties that are not covered with inflorescences.

Cultivation of pelargonium zonal

In order for the plant to please with its flowering, it should be properly looked after. Pelargonium zonal does not belong to the whimsical, but some features will have to be taken into account.

  1. Location... It is advisable to choose a fairly light or slightly darkened place. In summer, flowerpots can be taken out onto the balcony and placed in the shade. In winter, the temperature of the content should be in the range of 15-16 ° C.
  2. Watering... In the summer, the plant needs abundant watering. With the arrival of winter, it is replaced by a moderate one. Flowers of this species have the ability to accumulate water, so they will tolerate a slight drought without problems.
  3. The soil... The soil should be selected fertile and well-drained. A mixture of sod land, humus, peat and sand in equal parts is best. Instead of sod land, you can take compost soil.
  4. Top dressing... When caring for zonal pelargonium, it is good to periodically add it with the addition of trace elements. In specialized stores, ready-made feeding pelargonite is sometimes found.
  5. Bush formation... Always remove all wilted flowers to make the bush lush and branchy, the tops need to be pinched periodically.
  6. Transfer... Young plants are replanted annually. Work should start in the spring, but before growth begins. The pot should not be too large, since the shoots will be massive and leafy, but the plant will not bloom.

Pelargonium zonal - growing from seeds

If you want to propagate zonal pelargonium from seeds, be prepared for the fact that varietal properties most likely will not be preserved and the seedlings will have new ones. decorative qualities... This is reflected in the height of the plant, the shape and color of the leaves.

For sowing, you need loose and enough fertile soil... If possible, it is always best to add some sand or peat. Seeds can be sown from the beginning of March. If you want to start early, you will have to prepare artificial lighting.

In small containers, drain holes are made and a layer is poured. Then they pour in the earth and water it red solution of potassium permanganate. The seeds are laid out on the surface and pressed quite a bit. To grow pelargonium zoned from seeds, containers are placed in a warm place, having previously covered all crops with a transparent film.

As soon as the first shoots appear, the film can be removed. We put all containers on the windowsill with good lighting and water in moderation. As soon as two or three real leaves grow, you can start diving. Reproduction of zonal pelargonium in this way is the simplest. In the future, the flowerpots are exposed in a bright place and watered moderately.