How to assemble a house from 150x150 timber. Technologies for building houses from timber: pros, cons, stages

Considering that timber is a fairly common material for housing construction, the number of people wishing to purchase wooden house IR for living or summer holidays, is growing every year. But in conditions of a tight budget, hiring a team of carpenters is quite expensive and the owner of the land always wonders how to build a house from 150*150 mm timber on his own. By following the recommendations below, you can cope with this matter.

Choice of material and construction conditions

Before you build a house made of timber, you need to take a responsible approach to the choice of raw materials.

It comes in several types and has positive and negative aspects.

Simple, profiled, glued, house kit - given in ascending order of price.

Using the first option, you have to do the cladding. The latter will allow you to assemble a house in a couple of months. Glued is considered elite, but it is expensive and does not have the proper environmental benefits.

The profiled one leads, but the stability of the entire object is good. In general, in order to purchase goods, you need to decide on the purpose of construction - housing, dacha. And also calculate the budget for related materials. Working with any selected wood is identical.

The site for work must already be ready - the foundation, access roads, warehousing and storage of timber. The process is long, and wood is capricious. To prevent damage and waste, you should take care of everything in advance.

The material must be stored separately on platforms, avoiding contact with open ground. Parts should be covered with polyethylene and opened for ventilation. Communications are required - electricity and water.

We must not forget about all the legal approvals with any services - the Ministry of Emergency Situations, the fire department and the BTI. Otherwise, you will have to regret the work done. Next - how to build a house from timber.

Stages of work

Focusing on the project, work begins with waterproofing the foundation and laying larch boards on it. This breed practically does not interact with moisture, which is the key to the durability of the entire house. The platform is pitched with bitumen and covered with two layers of roofing material or rolled rubber.

The board is attached to reinforcement protruding from the platform. The holes should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the rod so that the fit is tight. Needless to say, everyone wooden element must be processed protective compounds, preventing rot, mold and ignition in case of fire. Next, work goes according to plan:

• Salary setting. This is the first “circle” of crowns, which requires careful technology. For example, cutting corners. It is diverse and requires professionalism.

You can make “toe-to-toe” joints yourself, but such corners are cold and take on all temperature changes. Bowl and other complex cuttings are accessible only to specialists, although you can learn anything. The joints are strengthened with wooden dowels.

By the way, in the question of how to build a house from profiled timber, there are no difficulties in terms of fastening - there are ready-made grooves and holes. In the initial crown, grooves are also cut out for the floor joists, and a rough version is laid out for the convenience of further actions.

• Each “circle” of the house requires interventional insulation, which you need to stock up on sufficient quantity. The choice of material is up to the owner, but it is worth knowing that tow and jute felt are worst options. The first one will crumble, the second one will serve as a breeding ground for moths.

In addition, after shrinkage, caulking will be required, even if wood manufacturers claim that their products can do without it. Cold corners will especially need it - shrinkage will open them up and the gaps will become noticeable to the naked eye.

• Next, the solution to the problem - how to properly build a house from timber, lies in marking the holes for the dowels and leading the walls. To know exactly the position of the fastening, the next element is lifted onto the protruding clamps and marks are made in the right places with the butt of an ax.

Then holes are drilled at the designated points, and the timber is put in place. Thus, the walls lead to the desired height, not forgetting to alternate all the crowns with a sealant. The last two crowns are not secured with anything - they are removed to install the rafters.

• Cut down windows and doorways, it is impossible until the house completely shrinks. This work requires precision and strengthening of the timber.

If you neglect this, then you can subsequently get at least a skew of the inputs, and at a maximum of the entire structure. The same applies to the rafter system. It is installed after a while.

So, the time for shrinkage has passed. You can continue working on the question of how to build a house from timber yourself. They start from the roof. The strength of the structure depends on the careful selection of material for this purpose.

Wooden elements for rafters should not be smaller than a cross-section of 100 mm. Also, they do not contain visible defects - the number of knots, cracks. In general, the parameters of the timber for such purposes depend on the design of the roof itself and the number of spans - the more there are, the larger the section should be.

In addition to rafters, reinforcing beams may be required. Their cross-section is smaller, but the quality of the wood should be on par with the rafters.

Roof installation:

• Two rows of crowns are removed and floors are installed like floor joists. It will be much more convenient to work if you also lay rough sheathing.
• The turn of the Mauerlat - the supporting structure of the entire roof. This is a beam with a section of 150*150, around the entire perimeter of the house. It is also secured with dowels. This element is usually wrapped in two layers of roofing felt. The ends of the rafters are also tarred or wrapped.
• The rafters are screwed to the beam. For this purpose, anchor bolts are used, because the roof structure is the heaviest and most dangerous part of the house. The complexity of manufacturing depends on which roofing model is chosen.

It can be pitched or hipped. In the first case, the upper ends of the rafters are attached to the ridge girder, and the gables can be assembled immediately and installed as panels.

The attic type requires different actions: first, the beam is placed vertically, and rafters are attached to it, which form the ridge. The spacing of the sheathing depends on the parameters of the timber - the thinner, the more often. You can cover the roof with the selected material immediately.

Door and window openings

Now for the general task - how to fold correctly timber house, the issue of openings is being resolved. First, outline the outline. The lower border should fall in the middle of the second crown.

To work, use a circular saw and draw lines from the outside. After this, the pieces are carefully knocked out inside. Then a groove is made at the ends of the opening for inserting casing boards.

This is to prevent movement before hanging doors or inserting windows. The canvas, of course, must have a spike.

You can master the art of building a wooden house yourself. The material chosen is, as a rule, timber: glued or profiled. It differs in the manufacturing method, but the construction technology is almost the same for each of them. Wood allows you to save on hiring workers, since 3 people can build a house from timber with their own hands. You don’t need heavy equipment for this; you just need to prepare a concrete mixer, a concrete pump, a winch, a chainsaw and small tools.

What will the house be like?

Timber is used in low-rise private construction for the construction of houses no higher than 3 floors. Performance properties material, favorable internal microclimate, Beautiful design contribute to the choice of this particular material for building a house. The beam differs from the log in its rectangular shape, and this is its advantage, since it allows you to immediately obtain a flat surface. Its benefits are obvious: it is easy to do internal and external cladding, you can hang any interior details on the walls. Also, the use of timber eliminates cold bridges due to the precise fit of the wooden elements.

Wood allows you to create an exclusive design project for any structure: a small dacha, a one-story house, a luxury cottage. It may include balconies with beautiful railings, cozy terraces, and verandas. A multi-pitched roof decorates a building more than other types of roofing, especially if it has a large total area. The house project must be ordered from a professional organization. This will guarantee taking into account the properties of the soil, correct calculation of the material, and compliance with construction technology.

It all starts with the foundation

A house made of timber has sufficient weight, so it requires a strong, reliable foundation. If it is planned to be under the house, choose strip foundation. If the soil is wet, muddy, loose, the right solution would be to use screw piles. A small house can be built on a solid slab foundation. In this case concrete base serves simultaneously as the subfloor of the first floor.

A pile-grillage foundation is constructed in the same way as a strip foundation, but with concrete piles installed in trenches. Used on loose soils with high levels of freezing. The strip foundation is the most popular: it can withstand heavy loads, can be erected without the use of machinery, and the work technology is easy to implement. This type of foundation is suitable for all private houses, so its design is discussed further.

First, markings are made exactly along the perimeter of the future house. Indicate the location of carriers interior walls. According to the markings, trenches are dug, the width of which is 10 cm greater than the width of the walls. For the basement, you need to dig a pit of the appropriate size, for the cellar, a hole. The depth of the trenches should be greater than the freezing level of the soil, but not less than 60 cm. A sand cushion of sand (10 cm) and gravel (10 cm) is poured into the bottom of the trenches, and the layers are leveled. The sand should be moistened and compacted to ensure sufficient density. The pillow is filled with a thin layer of concrete (5 cm).

Formwork, reinforcement, concreting

For removable formwork, take a 25 mm board and knock it down in the form of panels. They must rise above the level of the trench by at least 40 cm (the external height of the foundation of the house, which is indicated in the project). Shifting of the formwork is prevented by installing spacers between the inner walls and support boards on the outside.

Reinforcement is carried out with 10 mm rods in 2 layers. The frame is laid first along, then across; the intersection points are secured with tying wire. It is important that the rods do not touch the formwork. The gap should be 5 cm. Concrete mortar can be made in two ways:

• ratio of M400 cement and sand 1:3;
• the ratio of M400 cement, sand and special additives is 1:4:4.

Concrete at a construction site can be mixed in a concrete mixer and poured into trenches using a special concrete pump. It is important to prevent the formation of air bubbles in the foundation before it hardens, so you need to use a cement vibrator. The uncured surface is moistened with water to prevent the foundation from hardening too quickly. At this stage, the construction of a house made of timber with your own hands is suspended for 20-30 days. This time is required for the foundation to completely harden and be able to bear the main load.

, however, this article discusses the classic masonry of a house made of timber. The types of wood most suitable for self-construction are easy to process and at the same time inexpensive: larch, pine, spruce.

The first crown is laid on a double layer of rolled insulation laid on the foundation. It is placed alternately with bitumen, heated to a liquid state. Thus, the following layers are obtained:

• bitumen,
• roofing felt,
• bitumen,
• roofing felt

The width of the insulation exceeds the width of the foundation by 30 cm. Next, work with the timber begins. It is important that each part is pre-treated with an antiseptic. It will protect the tree from rotting and damage by insect pests. Fire retardant compounds are also used to protect wood from burning. Impregnating each log separately is more effective than impregnating the entire building, since in the second case there will be untreated areas at the junction of the beams.

The very first board, the backing board, is rigidly attached to the foundation through a layer of waterproofing. A low tide is fixed to it, which will protect the frame from precipitation by draining water. There are 2 ways to lay the first crown:

• on the backing board,
• on the cross rails.

The second option provides additional clearance, and therefore ventilation. Slats 10 mm thick are attached across the foundation to the backing board in increments of 30 cm. The length of the slats is equal to the width of the board. It is important here to constantly check the horizontal placement of elements. Use better laser level, you can use oil-drip. The quality of the entire structure depends on the competent, unhurried assembly of the first crown. A 150x150 mm beam is used for it.

Features of connecting beams

Profiled and laminated timber have a 4-corner profile, and for the construction of houses they use section sizes of 140x140 mm and 90x140 mm. The front side can be convex or flat (for profiled timber; for laminated timber it is always flat). A tongue-and-groove connection is made at the factory on the upper and lower sides of the timber. It allows you to connect the elements together as tightly and rigidly as possible. Each new row is laid on a layer of jute inter-crown insulation. The crowns are connected to each other by vertically hammering the dowel in increments of 1 m, to a depth of 30 cm.

More information about insulation

Jute insulation eliminates the formation of cold bridges in winter. This prevents facade condensation, mold growth in the wood structure, and significantly increases the service life of the building. It is better to buy inter-crown insulation in the form of a tape of suitable width. Secure it with a construction stapler.

It should be noted that the use of tow or flax does not prevent the appearance of microscopic gaps in the log house, since it is impossible to ensure uniformity of the layer. Tape insulation does not have these disadvantages; it has the same thickness and high-quality non-woven fabric, connected by a needle-punched method.

How to lengthen a beam?

The length of the walls of the house often exceeds the length of the timber, and in this case it is necessary to properly connect the joints. The assembly is carried out in a dressing, that is, the vertical seam of each next row is shifted relative to the previous one. To securely connect the joints, cut half a tree along the beam. After connection, rigidity is ensured by driving in the dowels. The reliability of the connection can be increased if the joint is located on the partition.

Window and door openings are arranged by laying shorter timber. In these places, only solid material is used. 2 dowels are hammered into the crowns near the openings. The second method involves cutting out openings in the finished log house. In this case, the dowels should be located outside the opening, but close to its edge. Sawing begins with markings using a plumb line and level. The work is done with a chainsaw.

Roofing a house made of timber

The beautiful roof consists of several slopes, and the presence of an attic with several windows makes it original. If you don’t have the skills, you can install a gable roof yourself - this is a practical, effective, aesthetic type of roof. For the Mauerlat, choose a 150x150 mm beam and attach it to the crown of the wall using staples, dowels, and anchor bolts.

The rafters rest on the mauerlat. It should be noted that in this place it is customary to make a triangular cut for a stronger engagement of both elements. In wooden houses that experience significant shrinkage, a notch is not made, since displacement can deform the structure. The best way attach the rafters and provide the ability to move - use a steel sled fastening. It consists of 2 elements that allow the rafters to change their angle due to shrinkage of the house.

It consists of durable timber and is a frame. It defines the shape of the roof and consists of duplicate elements. The angle of inclination, pitch, length, thickness of the rafters are indicated in the project. As a rule, they take timber with a width of 150-180 mm and a thickness of 50 mm. The system elements are connected to each other by tongue-and-groove fastenings and steel plates. Raising the rafters to a given angle is carried out using special elements - rafter legs, which are higher, the more the beams rise up.

The installed rafter system is covered vapor barrier layer, a counter-lattice and sheathing are mounted on top. The first is assembled from 2 cm thick slats, stuffing them onto insulating material along the rafters. The sheathing is nailed across the rafters; the pitch of the beams depends on the choice of roofing material. If tiles are laid, a continuous sheathing is required; for corrugated sheets and slates, it is nailed in increments of 30 cm.

If an attic is planned, the roof is insulated from the inside with mineral wool slabs laid between the rafters. The cladding material used is lining or plasterboard. A wooden house shrinks within 1-2 years. During this period, you can live in it, but the walls cannot be finished with facing materials.

The choice of material is the primary problem faced by anyone who decides to build a small, reliable and comfortable home on your site. Modern market building materials can safely boast a huge range of raw materials for every taste and budget. Most people prefer wood. And it’s not surprising, because wooden beams are an environmentally friendly and inexpensive material.

This material is presented in several variations, but in this article we will talk about how to build a house with your own hands from profiled timber, since it is the most common and has the simplest installation technology. It is very malleable for processing, which means that you can install electrical wiring, plumbing and sewerage without much difficulty.

Drawing up a plan, preparing materials and tools

It is simply impossible to build a house without a good project, so it is very important to take it extremely seriously. at this stage, especially since it is on it that you can clearly understand what you can save on.

Ideally, you can turn to special design agencies for help. For a fee, they will individually draw up a complete layout of your future home, taking into account the size and shape of your territory, soil composition, financial capabilities and, most importantly, personal preferences.

If you do not need any miracle of design thought, then you can build a building using standard options. To do this, all the necessary documentation can be found on free Internet resources or you can use one of several 3D editor programs, including FloorPlan3D, CyberMotion 3D-Designer, SEMA and many others. The latter, by the way, is designed specifically for the layout of houses made of timber. SEMA will help you carry out all the necessary statistical calculations and select the type rafter system and much more.

The drawing should indicate everything from general sizes construction and number of floors to the location of door and window openings, furniture, all communications (light, water, heat).

As soon as the plan is in your hands, you can begin to calculate, if this has not already been done, and select the required materials and tools, including:

• Timber as the main building material.

You can buy ready-made beams with the necessary cut grooves and tenons - bring them, install them - use them, also thanks to the perfectly flat and smooth surface of the edges there is no need for additional finishing work, or you can buy wooden blanks and make the notches yourself, there is nothing complicated about it, and you can save a lot of money.

Experts recommend using timber with a cross-section of 150x150 mm during construction. But since you have to work alone or with an unqualified assistant, it is better to use material with a cross-section of 150x100 mm. Such timber is much lighter, and the missing volume can be restored in the future by insulating the facade from the outside of the building.

• Insulation.

To save additional money, you can use materials that are, so to speak, “at hand” as insulation. Moss is considered the best among these. It is not difficult to find and process, but in its own way technical specifications it is identical to its artificial counterparts.

• Nails, screws and other fastening structures ( metal corners, wooden dowels and so on).
• Waterproofing material (for example, roofing felt).
• Ready-made concrete solution or the components necessary for its preparation (water, sand, crushed stone, cement).
• Reinforcement (if a strip foundation is planned).
• Saw.
• Jigsaw.
• Screwdriver.
• Hammer.
• Construction rubber hammer.
• Roulette.
• Building level.
• Plumb.
• Circular Saw.
• Pipes for water supply and sewerage.
• Cable for electricity, TV.
• Master OK.
• Caulk.
• Other tools for small and decorative work.

Harvesting wood and moss for construction

To build a warm and cozy home from timber, in addition to knowledge of the technology for laying crowns, it is important to understand which type of wood is best suited for this purpose.

Each species, naturally, has its own advantages and disadvantages, but the main thing you need to pay attention to when choosing lumber is strength, density, moisture resistance and degree of drying. So, if the wood is fragile, then your house may very soon simply fall apart; if the density is low, then such material can shrink by up to 20 percent, or even more. If a lot of moisture accumulates in the wood fibers, then such a house will never be warm, but if the raw materials are under-dried, then it will simply be impossible to work with them; if the raw materials are over-dried, the material will become too unreliable.

Very serious requirements are placed on the walls of the house, as they must provide warmth, comfort and low noise levels in the premises, especially since wood is a rather fire-hazardous material that can be deformed due to weather precipitation. That is why experts recommend purchasing timber from coniferous species such as spruce, cedar, fir, larch and some others. Due to the high content of resinous substances, conifers are resistant to rotting, cracking and other deformations. Also, trees of this species are very durable, light, and therefore do not create too much load on the foundation.

Selecting timber from coniferous You can save money by building a foundation using a simplified system.

If you decide to harvest the wood yourself, then you should know that the humidity coefficient should not exceed 20%, otherwise cracks will soon begin to appear in the walls, which will require additional processing, and this will waste effort, time and budget.

When preparing, keep in mind the fact that it is better to do this in winter period year (from January to March), since in winter the process of photosynthesis slows down and the speed of movement of juices along the tree trunk becomes minimal.

Cut the lumber to the desired shape and size, treat it with an antiseptic and leave it stored in a dry place out of reach of sunlight. The bars must be stored compactly in special stacks, at a height of at least half a meter from the ground. There should be a gap of 4-5 and 10-15 cm between the crowns and rows. To do this, several transverse beams are inserted between them. After lying like this for 5-6 months, the tree is ready for further processing and installation.

To keep your home warm in inclement weather, you should think about choosing inter-crown insulation. Professional builders use modern strip materials, but the price for such pleasure is quite high, so we recommend paying attention to moss.

There are more than 300 species of this plant in the world, but only a few varieties are used for construction purposes, among them: sphagnum, cuckoo moss, red moss and peat moss. All of them have excellent bactericidal properties and are excellent natural antiseptics. Among the disadvantages is a high flammability, since after drying the moss becomes dry and brittle, for example, at high temperatures it can spontaneously ignite, to prevent this it is treated with special means.

Moss must be collected; it can be found in swampy areas - these are long, up to 30 cm, stems with small leaves, dried and stored in a dry place for about two weeks. You can use plastic bags as bags, but then the moss will be a little damp. There's nothing wrong with that.

Foundation construction

A high-quality foundation is the key to a reliable, stable and durable home. Since it is he who is the main one load-bearing structure, which must withstand the total weight of the building, such high demands are placed on it.

When building a house from timber, three main types of foundations are used:

1. Pile-screw.
2. Gnezdovoy.
3. Tape.

The choice of foundation type depends mainly on the soil on which the house is planned to be built. This issue must be resolved at the planning stage. You should conduct a soil analysis, you can also ask your neighbors what foundation their houses are on, or look for information in documents about the purchase of a plot or other reference literature.

If the soil is heaving or watery, and also if you plan to use the house only seasonally, and not live there permanently, then use one of the first two options. If it contains a large amount of sand or clay, then a strip foundation is suitable.

The first thing to start with is clearing the area of ​​debris, thickets, bushes and other objects that may interfere. Immediately before digging it is necessary to mark. To do this, use ordinary wooden pegs, which are placed in the corners of the site, as well as along load-bearing walls, and the thread that is pulled between them - everything is simple. Subsequent actions depend on the selected type of foundation.

Pile-screw foundation

After the area is cleared and ready for further manipulations, we proceed to earthworks. It is better to pre-purchase metal piles from a specialized store, since it is quite difficult to build such structures by hand. Choose supports of the same size and always have drills already welded at one end.

Thanks to the special design, the piles are easy to install yourself, while keeping an eye on the angle of inclination. A building magnetic level can help you with this. Also, if there was no cap on the screws, you will need to install it yourself. To do this, use a processed sheet of metal 25x25 cm and 5-6 mm thick.

Nest foundation

The nested foundation differs only in that instead of metal piles, either monolithic concrete supports or hollow pipes with a diameter of 250-300 mm are used, into which cement mortar is poured after installation.

As soon as the territory has been marked, it is necessary to dig holes at selected points along the perimeter with a depth of 2/3 of the height of the support. A layer of sand is poured onto the bottom, moistened and compacted tightly. After this, support structures are inserted into them at right angles, and if necessary, a solution is poured inside and into the space around them at the bottom. The remaining gaps between the supports and the ground are filled with a mixture of sand and crushed stone.

There is also an option to install formwork in the dug holes and fill it with concrete mortar to ground level; we recommend using M400 cement in a ratio of 1:3 to sand. After the cement has completely dried, the formwork is removed and aerated concrete or foam blocks 20x20x40 cm are laid on top.

Strip foundation

The strip foundation is the most common, as it can be used in the vast majority of cases, for example, if you are planning to build a heavy two- or more-story house.

The first step is to dig a trench 10-15 centimeters wider than the thickness of the walls and 50-70 cm deep. It should be located at a height of at least a meter from the groundwater level.

There are several options for strip foundations, including:

• Brick.
• Concrete.
• Stone.

For any of them it is necessary to prepare a foundation. A layer (10 cm) of sand is placed at the bottom of the trench, moistened with a small amount of water and compacted thoroughly; if necessary, sand can be poured in two layers. A layer (15-20 cm) of crushed stone, broken brick or small stones is poured on top of it.

By the way, geotextiles can be pre-laid at the bottom of the trench, and along the outer edge you can install thermal insulation material– this will help prevent freezing of the shallow foundation.

If you plan to build a brick or stone base, a little before reaching the top of the foundation, you can install formwork on the resulting cushion. It is necessary to pour a layer of mortar inside to the level of the ground surface and compact it. To increase stability, we recommend creating a reinforcing frame from metal rods with a diameter of 1.2-1.5 mm.

Already on top, after the solution has completely hardened, bricks or stones are laid, which can be ordered, or used independently found near any body of water. Another reinforcement belt is installed on top of the masonry and concreted (height 5-10 cm) and leveled.

If a concrete base is planned, then the height of the formwork should reach 30-50 cm, thickness 2-3 cm. If the formwork is planned to be made of wood, then the material should be free of cracks, chips, unevenness and other defects.

The reinforcement is installed in increments of 10-20 cm. The distance between the rows is 5-10 cm. The result should be a mesh with cells of 15-20 sq. cm. The rods are tied together with rigid wire, the whole structure is poured cement mortar, which can either be purchased or prepared personally. We recommend investing in a concrete mixer - this will save you time and nerves, since mixing cement by hand is quite long and difficult. The formwork must first be moistened with water or wrapped in a layer of plastic film.

It is very important to prevent the appearance of bubbles before the solution hardens. A vibrating hammer will help with this, or you can simply punch holes in several places; later they will need to be filled with mortar.

The foundation is left to dry for 3-4 weeks. The formwork can be removed after 5-7 days, during which and several more days, the solution must be sprayed with water in order to prevent cracking of the foundation. Don't forget to make holes for communication wiring.

Construction and insulation of walls and floors

The crowns of the first row are connected to each other traditionally, regardless of the method of connecting subsequent rows, “half-tree” is a fairly reliable and easy-to-make type of end notches, and they are not laid directly on the foundation, but on a lining of small slats located transversely to the beam itself , at a distance of 5-10 cm from each other. The gaps between the slats can be filled with foam. To cut the end notch, you can use a hacksaw, and use a chisel to remove excess material.

So, if the slats rot, it will be easier to replace them than whole line timber. The boards also need to be treated with an antiseptic or primer to prevent the development of fungus and various microorganisms, and lay it on a foundation covered in two layers of waterproofing material, such as roofing felt.

The timber of the first row should have slightly larger dimensions than the crowns of the remaining rows, for example, if a material with a cross-section of 150x150 mm is used for the walls, then for the first row use the option with a cross-section of 200x200 mm.

It will be possible to mount logs for the subfloor on the lining of the planks using steel angles and nails or screws. It is necessary to attach the so-called cranial beam to them, on which the edged board for the subfloor will be laid in the future. A layer of waterproofing should be laid on top of the draft, and on top of it insulation boards, such as mineral wool, polystyrene foam or any other modern analogue. Next layer there is a vapor barrier, and then the finished floor.

All subsequent rows are laid identically to each other. There are two main ways to fasten bars:

• “With a remainder” is when a small part of the beam protrudes from its two ends.
• "Without a trace."

The picture below shows different types end notches.

This manipulation can be done using a circular saw or jigsaw. Options “A” and “D” (“without remainder”) are the most reliable for residential buildings, but also the most difficult to install. Recommended for areas where annual precipitation does not exceed 300 mm. Option “Z” is used to connect internal load-bearing walls. Also note that tongue-and-groove connections must leave a gap of half a centimeter for the insulation.

The rows are fastened together using wooden or metal dowels. We recommend using the latter, since during drying the lumber will not crack, which will ensure the durability of your building.

Using dowels for fastening, it is necessary to drill holes with a diameter of 30-40 mm. It is necessary to drill so that the beam of one row of dowels goes through, and the beam of the bottom row only partially, or you can use short dowels; for this, holes are cut out on two opposite sides, a dowel is driven into one with a hammer, and simply inserted into the next. Remember that the dowels should not be located on top of each other. To make the structure as stable as possible, arrange them in a checkerboard pattern, as shown in the figure below.

If the walls of your house turn out to be longer than the timber, it’s not a problem. In this case, you need to cut a rectangular hole at the end of one beam, and at the end of the second a rectangular protrusion right in the center, so you get a tongue-and-groove joint.

The space between the crowns can be insulated using pre-collected and dried moss and tow. The tow is laid across the beams, and the moss is simply thrown on top. Thus, when installing the upper crown, part of the insulation will stick out - this is not a problem, since caulking work is planned in the future, and this, in turn, will provide maximum thermal insulation.

To ensure that the bars of one row are at the same height, we use a rubber hammer, tapping it along the walls after installing each beam. The plane is used at the end, only after you have noticed that due to the unevenness of the bottom row it is impossible to install the timber of the top row.

*Important! Don't forget to alternate corner joints.

The last two rows of crowns are not fastened, since in the future, after shrinkage, the rafter system will be installed. To do this, you will have to temporarily dismantle these two rows.

To design door and window openings, you can use two methods: either lay out all the rows, and then, after making a mark, cut out the necessary holes with a jigsaw, or use beams of such length in advance that they will subsequently form windows and doors. Remember that the size of the openings must exceed the size of the door or window itself, since it is still necessary to leave space for installing window and door frames. It is also necessary to leave a gap of 10-15 cm above the windows and doors. This is necessary so that in the future, when the timber shrinks, it does not damage the structure of the windows or doors. It will need to be filled with liquid insulation.

Roof roof

After the last row of crowns has been erected, the building must be covered with roofing felt or slate and allowed to settle. The shrinkage period takes up to 6 months on average, only after which you can proceed to installing the roof and facing work.

There are a huge number of variations of roofs. The hip or hip roof is considered the most reliable and stable; it is used in regions with high humidity and strong winds, but since it is quite difficult to erect it without the help of specialists, we recommend installing a gable roof. We will briefly describe the installation steps and the main elements.

First, you need to insulate the surface of the walls from moisture, using, for example, roofing felt. It must be laid in two layers. After attaching the Mauerlat - the base for the rafter system, in which special cutouts are made, with the help of which they are attached rafter legs. The top row of crowns, pre-treated with an antiseptic, will serve as the Mauerlat.

The rafters themselves, depending on the area of ​​the house, should be made of timber with a section of 100x50, 150x50 or 200x50 mm. They should not protrude beyond the house by more than half a meter; if more, additional supports will be installed. A wooden sheathing of slats 5-6 cm thick and 10-20 cm wide is installed on the rafter legs in increments that depend on the roofing material (tiles - planks are laid end to end, if slate or corrugated sheeting - at a distance of 30 cm from each other). Sometimes a counter-lattice is installed, on top of which the roofing material itself is mounted. Insulation, vapor and waterproofing are laid in the resulting space between the two sheathings.

The ceiling consists of several ceiling joists, which are attached using the tongue-and-groove method to the top row of timber. The remaining manipulations are identical to the floor. You can additionally lay insulation and insulation between the finished and rough ceilings. In the future, this can reduce heat loss by up to 30%.

So that the roof is stable, strong, withstands strong winds and lasts long years, it is worth thinking about additional supporting structures, such as crossbars, struts, tightening, racks and others. All of them are attached using hardware, such as steel angles and self-tapping screws.

Don't forget to leave ventilation gaps, a hole for the chimney and attic, if one is planned. The roof fronts can be covered with clapboard or decorative block house.

Remember! Any roof will require repairs over time. Therefore, in order to reduce financial costs, experts recommend checking the coating annually for damage and various deformations, such as deflection and leakage. The first is eliminated by installing additional supports (crossbars, racks, etc.), and the leak is eliminated by replacing rotten roofing material.

Let's summarize

The last stage of construction work is the installation of entrance and interior doors, windows. If necessary, work is carried out on insulation and decorative finishing of walls either inside or outside the house. They provide electricity, water, heat, and connect the sewerage system.

Now that you know the main stages of building a house from timber on your own, as well as ways to save money, you can begin building a warm, cozy and reliable home that will warm and delight you for many years.

If you have an idea to build a house with your own hands, then the difficulty of choosing a material will be relevant.

Most budget option There will be construction of a house from timber. Despite the cheapness of this material, the house will be quite warm, durable and strong.

After studying the Internet, you will find that in most cases it is advised to choose timber with a cross-section of 150x150 mm.

But if you don’t want to attract additional labor, you will need such lumber as dry timber 150x100 mm, which after erection and shrinkage can be insulated using mineral wool. The house will not be inferior in thermal insulation to other buildings made of larger cross-section timber.

Construction stages and foundation construction

And so, the material has been purchased, we begin building the house:

• Initially, it is necessary to clear the space and level the area for the foundation;
• In accordance with the composition of the soil, determine the type of foundation (specialized reference literature will help with this).

The foundation can be piled, monolithic or strip, which is more often used, because wooden houses are relatively light.

After installing the foundation, the concrete should gain strength (3-4 weeks), then we proceed to laying the timber. Even before laying, it is necessary to prepare dowels (dowels) - this is what is used to fasten the timber laid in the crowns together. They are usually made from dense wood (larch).

If the beam size is 150x100 mm, dowels about 12 cm long are suitable. Also, the technology for laying timber requires laying inter-crown insulation. Usually this roll materials such as jute, you can also use tow or moss.

According to the advice of experts, you should use fresh red or peat moss that has been stored for no more than 3 weeks.

The first crown of the future house should be made of larch, which is not subject to rotting. For greater reliability, it can be treated with bitumen.

The beams of the first crown are fastened together using a technique known as “half a tree” - the ends of the beam are cut lengthwise and crosswise. It is also necessary to fasten such a knot using staples or nails.

Methods of attaching timber to the foundation

At the stage of pouring the base into it upper layer install bolts with curved or cone-shaped bases. The distance between such bolts should not exceed more than 0.5 m. There should be at least two bolts for each element of the first crown.

In the timber of the first crown, even before laying, it is necessary to drill holes for the studs located in the foundation.

Pre-cut roofing material is laid on top of the grillage, which acts as a waterproofing material.

After laying the first crown and securing it to the foundation studs using washers and locknuts, align the horizontal line so that the house turns out without distortions. It is also recommended to check the diagonals.

Having laid the first crown, we begin to build the walls.

To do this you will need a variety of tools:

Note!

• Gasoline or electric saw;
• Hand-held circular saw;
• Drill;
• Level;
• Roulette;
• Axe;
• Hammer;
• Screwdriver;
• Hammer;
• Plane.

You also need consumables - nails, self-tapping screws, inter-crown insulation, fire-retardant impregnations.

After preparing all the necessary materials and tools, we begin building the walls of your future home. The timber is laid in rows (crowns) until the wall reaches the required height.

After laying 4-5 crowns, jambs for door and window openings are installed. At the next stage, the final construction of the walls under the roof takes place.

Construction of roof and floors

We strongly do not recommend saving on materials for roofing installation. This part of the house can be designed in several versions:

• Single-pitch;
• Gable;
• Hip;
• Tent;
• Half-hip;
• Multi-pincer;
• Vaulted and diamond roofing.

It all depends on your desire, funds and complexity of the rafter system.

Note!

Floors and ceilings in the house are also an important stage of construction. When arranging them, they are mainly guided by personal preferences, but high-quality waterproofing is mandatory for any manufacturing option. This is especially true for basements and plinths.

Photo of a house made of timber with your own hands

Note!

Management and step-by-step instruction on building a house or Russian bathhouse from timber with your own hands.

How much does it cost to build a house?

For many Russians, a new gardening life begins every year with this question. After a newly minted landowner receives a plot of land, he will definitely face a difficult economic situation in our country.

The interesting proposals of many construction companies - to build any structure on a turnkey basis - may conflict with family budget. Even if you give up architectural sophistication, building a house will be an expensive pleasure.

Often, the costs that will go into direct construction will be equivalent to the cost of materials for future housing. All economic calculations will rest on a simple identity: the cost of materials and the cost of work are equal. Therefore, it is better to build a house yourself.
The main difficulty in self-construction at home is ignorance of construction operations and the sequence of their implementation.

How to properly build a house from timber?

It is better to build a wooden house. After all, buildings made of wood are very simple. In addition, this material is pleasant and easy to work with. Wooden houses have an excellent microclimate.
You can go further in two ways. The first is to raise money and purchase the entire set of building materials at once. This set includes

• lumber for ceilings and floors,
• timber for log house,
• edged and unedged boards,
• window and door blocks, etc.
• insulation made of flax or jute,
• roofing material,
• glassine,
• glass,
• roofing felt, g
• haul, staples, tow, etc.

The second way is to purchase all of the above in parts in accordance with the construction stages.

It’s better to go the first route, as it will end up being cheaper. In addition, many companies, when purchasing a complete set of building materials, deliver them directly to the site for free.

It is necessary to ensure that the dimensions of the timber, one of the most important components of the future house, are no less than 150x150x6000 mm. But, in principle, you can move away from these parameters.

Where to start building a house?

First of all, you need to go to the site, inspect the territory, find access roads (if there are no roads yet), determine the connection of the future house to the area, and the type of soil. Place where it will be built garden house, is determined according to the plan for dividing the entire territory into separate areas. The position of the house must be agreed upon with the board of the dacha association.

First of all, it is necessary to draw a site plan on a piece of paper on a certain scale, indicating specific dimensions and marking on it the place that will be allocated for the house. It is necessary to certify this plan to the board with the seal or signature of the responsible person.

Work on the site should begin with cutting down bushes, mowing grass, uprooting stumps and cutting off hummocks on the territory of the future construction site. For these works you need to have an ax, a shovel, a scythe, hand winch, crowbar and sledgehammer. It is better to use a sledgehammer to remove stumps.
Once the area has been cleaned, you can move on to the next step.

First you need to determine the type of foundation. It is better to choose a strip foundation, since with its help you can get a finished, warm, strong foundation from a homogeneous material with the least amount of labor. And you won't have to do any more extra work for the manufacture and installation of fences and lintels. A simplified method for marking axes should be used without using scraps. After all, cast-offs make it very difficult to dig foundation trenches.

When digging a foundation, you need to remove the soil that is being removed away, otherwise it will interfere with construction. The fertile layer should be placed in a separate pile; it can be useful in gardening. A very important factor is the depth to which the foundation will be laid. The depth of the foundation will be influenced by the level of groundwater, the type of soil and the depth of freezing.

A shallow foundation with sand filling the bottom of the trench is best. To do this, sand was always poured into the trench in layers of 25 cm, compacted and watered. Before pouring concrete, the reinforcement was laid on a sand bed. There must be at least two reinforcement bars.

Broken and deformed reinforced concrete lighting poles can be used as reinforcement. You can use a sledgehammer to break the concrete around the post reinforcement. Two pillars are enough. From one you can get 8-10 reinforcing bars, the diameter of which is 10-14 mm.

Before laying the reinforcement, it is necessary to straighten it and bend it at the corners. For this you can use two railway spikes. Drive them with ridges towards each other into a stump, beam or log so that there is a reinforcing rod between them. The rods that are placed must overlap each other by at least 20 cm. To prevent them from diverging when pouring concrete, it is better to tie the ends of the rods with wire where they overlap.

In order to protect the reinforcement from corrosion, you need to place stones, pieces of brick, and crushed stone under the bars so that the reinforcing bars are raised above the sand by at least 5 cm. If there is nothing to put the bars on, they can be hung. The crossbar covers the top of the trench and reinforcement is suspended from it. Then the trench is filled with concrete. It is better to purchase ready-made concrete; preparing it by hand is very labor-intensive.

Pouring the foundation

It is better to fill the foundation as follows. Along the axes of the foundation, metal rods 40 cm long are inserted into the uncured concrete. These rods are immersed into the base of the foundation to a depth of 20 cm. The remaining 20 cm form the base of the foundation. Rods are inserted at the corners of the foundation, and then after 1-1.5 meters between the corners. So the rods will be connected into one whole base with the plinth, and will serve as the basis for attaching the plinth formwork panels.

In warm weather, the surface of fresh concrete should be protected with moss, grass, sawdust and moistened with water, or simply covered with roofing felt. Then it is necessary to make formwork panels. To do this, it is better to use edged boards, the thickness of which is 40 mm. The panels will have no gaps, the surface of the base does not require plaster. To save money, you can use unedged boards.

After preparing the boards, you need to assemble boards of the length and height that correspond to the plan. When finding the length of the shields, the initial size will be the thickness of the base and the distance between its center lines.

The panels are assembled on spacers laid out on the ground in such a way that their smooth side faces the inside of the base. Using conventional blade clamps, the boards are pressed tightly against each other. Overlays are nailed to the shields, which are located at an angle to the longitudinal axis of the shield. The height of the panels should be 10 cm above the concrete pouring level.

In any foundation, the base at a height of 15-20 cm from the ground should have ventilation windows. They should be opposite each other different sides base To create windows, you need to put asbestos-cement pipes into the formwork, tightly fitting the ends to the panels so that concrete does not pour into them

1. Installation of shields begins with the inner contour. Before this, pieces of wire are wound around the pins so that on both sides of the pins there are free ends of the wire, the length of which is at least 20 cm.
2. First, shields with locks are installed. They are temporarily fixed.
3. Then shields are placed next to them, the edges of which rest on the locks. The ends of the shields are attached to the locks with nails.
4. The panels of the internal contour, fastened together, are aligned relative to the axes of the foundation, and the diagonals at the corners are checked.
5. The upper and lower spacers are nailed, which determine the width of the base.
6. Then the outer contour panels are attached, their centers are aligned with certain marks on the foundation.
7. The nails in the upper and lower spacers are forgotten. The shields are knocked together. It is checked whether the installation of the shields is symmetrical relative to the center lines of the base, and the diagonals are measured at the outer corners.
8. Then we bend the nails upward, and the lower part of the shields is fixed relative to the axes of the base.
9. In the upper part of the plinth, it is convenient to place the bars of the plinth reinforcement on spacers. Then the upper part of the base formwork is fastened with ties. Scraps of reinforcement are laid overlapping and tied with wire.
10. In this simple way, a rigid structure was obtained that is firmly connected to the base of the foundation. Before pouring concrete into the formwork, you need to mark the top pouring line on the boards. Marking the horizon level of the base begins from the most elevated corner on the ground. Marks are made 1-1.5 meters from the starting point and nails are driven in along them through the boards. The height of the base will be shown by the exposed ends of the nails. They will also serve as reference marks when pouring the base.

To create an ideal surface, it is necessary to make marks and constantly control the horizon using a hydraulic level. In hot weather, the poured base should be protected. The concrete needs to be kept in the formwork for about 2-3 days. During the process of building a house, it will gain the required strength.

Unloading construction materials

If during the construction of a house the entire set of building materials was ordered, then you need to think in advance where to unload them.
First, you need to remove the window and door blocks from the car. It is better to push other materials back, having first laid out unedged boards on the ground.

After the materials have been unloaded, they must be immediately sorted by type and laid out in predetermined places.
It is better to lay out the materials as follows. Most often, the foundation of a house is located in the corner between the property line and the road.

In this regard, building materials must be laid as follows: against the two walls of the base. It is advisable that the distance from the stack to the foundation be at least 3 meters. In order to prevent warping and sagging of the beams, they need to be laid on even pads laid horizontally. The bars themselves can be used as spacers. If there is a lot of space, then the stack is placed in a cage: one row is placed lengthwise, the other – across.

Boards are laid on linings made from scrap boards. A gap is left between the boards to allow the stack to “breathe.” Each new row of boards must be interspersed with spacers. It is necessary that the planed plane of the board faces down. Unedged boards should have the wide part facing down.

All stacks must be raised above the ground by at least 20-30 cm.
When all the material has been sorted and laid, it will be necessary to cover it from precipitation with roofing felt. An important detail: on any lumber you must immediately remove any remaining bark.
Approximate calculation of “related” materials for building a 6x6 house:
— 50 pieces of staples;
- 2 bales of tow;
— nails: 200 mm – 16 kg, 150 mm – 8 kg, 120 mm – 6 kg, 100 mm – 20 kg, 70 mm – 10 kg;
— 7 kg of slate nails;
- nails for exterior and internal lining;
— 3 rolls of 15 m glassine for the ceiling and pediment;
— 12 rolls of 15 m of roofing felt for the base, for the subfloor and for the roof.

Floor and walls of a house made of timber

Now it's time to lay the first crown.
Before laying the bottom trim, you need to apply two layers of roofing material to the base around the entire perimeter. To do this, a strip of roofing material is bent lengthwise and laid on the base.

For tying, smooth beams without cracks, jumps or signs of rot are selected. To prevent water from getting into the cracks between the beams, you need to remove 10x10 mm chamfers on the upper edges. It is better to connect the beams at the corners using a tongue and groove. The dimensions of the tenon should be 4x4 cm, and the dimensions of the groove should be 5 mm larger than the dimensions of the tenon.

Using rectangular or round dowels and 200 mm nails, the beams are joined together in a vertical plane.
It is better to cut curved beams into small pieces and lay them in window and door openings.

Must be given Special attention antiseptic treatment of the beams of the first crown. Preheated oil should be used to lubricate the inside and bottom sides of the beams, while leaving the ends clean. The treated strapping beams are laid on the base and fastened together with staples.

After this, you need to immediately lay out the floor joists. As logs, beams can be used, which are laid every 1 m. If the width of the plinth allows, then the ends of the logs are laid on it. If it doesn’t allow it, then cuts are made into the harness, and the ends of the joists are inserted there.

For large spans, the logs are laid on brick or concrete pillars, which are buried 50 cm into the ground. The main requirement is that the position of the logs must be horizontal and the upper layers must have a single plane. For temporary flooring, unedged boards are laid on the joists.
Then you can start building the walls.

All the timber from which the house is built has the same length. But there are also window and door openings in the walls, so smaller beams may be needed. From one large beam you can get 3-4 smaller beams.
The beams are prepared for 2-3 crowns. On lower crown A uniform, even layer of tow is placed, its thickness should be 1 cm. Tow is rolled outward on both sides of the beam by 5-6. The second crown is placed on the tow. Then the tow is put on again, etc. The beams of the new crown are connected with nails to the beams below and the overlying crowns. The first nails from the corner of the house are located at a distance of 30-40 cm. Further nails are driven in after 1.5 m.

Window blocks are fastened to the wall beams with nails every 2-3 crowns.
If there is no window block, but you need to assemble a log house, you can make temporary risers from edged boards, the thickness of which is 20 mm, and the width is equal to the thickness of the log house. With the help of these boards, the beams of the opening are fixed and fastened in a vertical plane.

In this case, the nails are driven through these boards into the end of the beam. When erecting the walls of a house, it is important to control the verticality of the corners and the horizontality of the walls. The beams need to be fastened at the corners so that they do not come out.

A very crucial moment occurs when laying beams over door and window blocks. To avoid pinching them, you need to leave a sedimentary gap, which is equal to 1/20 of the entire height of the log house.
Next you need to install the scaffolding. They are a flooring that rises 1.5-2 meters above the ground, depending on the height of the base and frame. In forests, flooring is very important. It must support at least three people. Its width must be at least 60 cm.

For the manufacture of scaffolding, any timber can be used - bars, slabs, round timber, edged and unedged boards. If the scaffolding sag, you need to make it double. The laying of timber can be completed when the height between the floor and ceiling is at least 2.4 meters. The last crown must be thoroughly checked according to elevation marks and diagonals and fastened with staples at the corners. Now the walls are ready.

Roof

There are many different types of roofs: shed, gable, hip, hipped, cross, etc. But in dacha construction the most common are gable broken roofs. Due to their simplicity and ease of installation, they have become very popular. These roofs will also allow you to build an attractive and spacious attic.

The roof is based on a reliable ceiling. It should consist of ceiling beams that are laid parallel to the facade. For a span of 6 meters in length, it is necessary to use beams with a cross-section of at least 150x150 mm. You can support floor beams using a permanent wall.

The distance between the floor beams should not be more than 1 m. Along the top frame of the log house, you need to mark the places where the floor beams need to be placed. Using a hydraulic level you need to achieve a general plane and strict horizontality. All irregularities that stick out must be carefully cut off with an ax.

It is necessary that the length of the floor beams exceed the width of the frame by two cornices.
Floor beams can be extended using pieces of 50x150 mm boards. At both ends of the beams, you need to cut out quarters 1 m long, insert extensions into them, connecting them with 150 mm nails to the beams. Then, for ease of installation, inserts with a depth of 3-5 cm are made on the extensions.

The prepared beams are lifted onto the top frame of the log house and placed in places on tow and nailed with 200 mm nails. Liners are inserted between the beams. With their help you can fix the beams and protect the attic from the cold. The liners are nailed to the beam and to the trim with 200 mm nails. The finished floor is covered with unedged boards.

In order to correctly determine the proportions of the roof, you can make a template. It can be made on the ground from edged boards. It's better to make a template in life size. So, using the template, you can determine what kind of attic roof you need to build.

The next stage is the installation of the attic frame. It can be done transversely and longitudinally. In both cases, assembly is carried out on the ceiling. In the case of the transverse method, the frame profile is assembled from a U-shaped tie and 2 racks and installed on the desired ceiling beam of the house. The installed U-shaped elements are connected to each other by purlins.

The flatness of the walls and ceiling of the attic is difficult to achieve, just as curvature of the ceiling beams is possible. Therefore, it is better to use a longitudinal installation method.

To use this method, it is necessary to free the right side of the floor from the temporary flooring. On ceiling beams The racks are laid and the upper purlin is attached to them with staples. Then the racks are fixed with braces. The frame span must be lifted without jerking; at the initial moment of lifting, beams must be placed under the run. After checking the plumb verticality of the racks, secure them with braces.

In order to facilitate installation, intermediate posts are installed under the purlins that are already raised. The same operations must be repeated on the other side. After the racks with purlins are raised and fastened, you need to tie them together using attic beams - floor ties.
When the attic beams are laid and fastened to the purlins with nails, you need to lay unedged boards on them.

The linings, ridge rafters, and crossbars assembled according to the template are installed on ties and secured with nails. Installation begins with the fronts, and then the intermediate ridge rafters are installed.
Now the attic frame is built.

House roof

This is a very responsible job that requires dexterity, knowledge, and skills.
We need to start with preparing the fronts. This preparation consists of installing two transverse and two vertical boards, the cross-section of which is 150x50 mm. A window block is inserted into the resulting opening, its horizontal-vertical position is checked and secured with nails.

Next you need to tighten the pediment with glassine. It will protect against moisture and protect the house from drafts. It is advisable to place the glassine strips overlapping and horizontally, and attach it to the posts with small nails or felt pins. Usually the pediment is sheathed with clapboard. It is better to sew the lower part of the pediment horizontally and the upper part vertically. This method is technologically advanced and very economical.

First, the vertical upper part is sewn up. You need to carefully ensure that the boards lie vertically and that the ridge of the catch fits tightly into the groove. You can stuff the catch, and then cut off its ends that protrude above the rafters with a hacksaw.

It is important to nail the drain board correctly. It needs to be nailed with a small bevel between the horizontal and vertical parts of the sheathing. When sewing up the upper part of the gable, you need to remember that the facing should always be with the groove down. It is also necessary to constantly monitor horizontality.

Roof sheathing

We can say that this work is simple, but it has its own characteristics. Firstly, it is necessary that the sheathing protrudes beyond the dimensions of the house. Such a protrusion must be made to protect the front of the building from the ingress of storm water. Most often, an overhang of 50-70 cm is made. If the roof of the house is roofing material, then the size of the overhang does not play a special role.

If the roof is slate, then the size of the overhangs of the gable eaves must be accurately determined in accordance with the total length of the sheathing. This can be done using very simple way. It is necessary to lay two boards parallel on the ground across the entire expected width of the roof. It is necessary to place slate on them with the required overlap in a whole wave or half wave.

Then you should compare the length of the entire row with the length of the roof. The difference between the length of the laid row and the sheathing is divided into two parts and the required overhang width is obtained.
After the overhang values ​​have been determined, two boards are nailed to each rafter. In this case, the width of the cornice must correspond to the overhang of each board. Then it is nailed along the board to the ends of these protrusions.

Natural stops are obtained for the intermediate sheathing boards.
The sheathing can be made from unedged boards, if they are nailed downwards. There should be a gap of 5 cm between the boards. When laying the boards, alternate the butt part with the top. It is worth nailing edged boards at the bottom and top of the rafters.

After the sheathing is ready, you should immediately sheathe the gable cornices. This is a very labor-intensive task that requires certain skills, because you have to work in hard to reach places and on high altitude. You can immediately sew up the cornices with shields, which can be easily and calmly made on the ground. After they are made, all that remains is to lift them onto the roof and make room for placing the overlays between the sheathing boards.

If the need arises, you can cover the junction of the shield with the gable boards with flashings. Frontal boards should be nailed to the ends of the shields.
Next comes the roof. At the initial stage of construction, it is better to cover the roof with two layers of roofing felt. The rolls need to be lifted onto the roof and rolled out perpendicular to the ridge. It is necessary that each subsequent strip of roofing material overlaps another strip by at least 10-15 cm.

The first layer of roofing material can be attached with buttons, and the second - with wooden slats, which can be treated with paint, drying oil, machine oil or antiseptic. It is better to cover a roof covered with roofing felt with a galvanized iron sheet along the ridge.

The ends of the roofing felt that hang down must be well secured.
Now the house is under a roof. Next, interior finishing work will be carried out. This is the most enjoyable stage in building a house.

Interior finishing work

This stage of construction should begin with filling the subfloor. First you need to fill the cranial bars along the lower edges of the joists. And then nail the subfloor boards to them. This flooring is covered with a layer of roofing material and insulation is placed on top of it. Mineral wool or expanded clay can be used as insulation. Glassine should be placed on top of the insulation.

The finished floor boards are placed face down on the joists, without hammering the nails in completely. After a year, you will need to pull out the nails, and turn the boards over and nail them down completely.
When flashing the ceiling, you need to decide where to leave the opening to the attic floor.

After the ceiling is lined, you need to move to the second floor. There, glassine is laid on the ceiling boards, insulation is placed, then glassine is added again and the floorboards are nailed.
After this, the attic ceiling is hemmed.

On the stage interior decoration door and window blocks. They are secured with wedges in the openings. The exposed blocks with the walls of the log house are fastened with 100-120 mm nails. Tow is packed into the cracks, the parts that protrude are cut off. The gap between the wall and the block is closed with platbands. Threshold door block should not rise more than 7 cm above the floor.

When fixing window blocks, an inclined cornice should be nailed above the upper casing, and a drain should be installed on the bottom board.
We need to make a staircase that will lead to the second floor. The simplest design is the one-flight staircase.

The lower part rests on the floor, and the upper part rests on the wall of the attic opening. The distance between the steps should be 20 cm. First, materials for the bowstring, railings and steps are prepared. To make a bowstring, it is better to purchase lumber with a cross-section of 60x200 mm.
For the steps it is necessary to select dry material with a thickness of at least 50 mm. Their length is at least 800 mm. The ends of the steps and their length must be identical.

The steps are laid on bars with a cross-section of 5x5 cm and fastened with 100 mm nails to the strings. The contact points of the staircase to the attic and to the floor are determined. Cuts are made, and the necessary workpiece is obtained, which fits tightly to the wall and floor.

The second string is cut out from this blank. Both strings are combined, and marks for future steps are applied on the outer edges. The bars are nailed to these marks, and then the steps. The steps on the outside of the bowstring are nailed with nails with decorative hats.