How to install gypsum board on the wall. Erection of walls from plasterboard in the apartment: interior and full. What you need to install drywall

Drywall in modern life is one of the most common finishing materials. He is gaining popularity thanks to the mass positive qualities, with this small list of negative, and in the price category does not hit the budget.

This material is chosen for the decoration of the premises, and the question of its installation arises. Mounting drywall on walls is not too difficult, but you can't call it simple either. There are two methods for attaching drywall:

Frameless way. The simplest, since no structures should be envisaged for it frame structure... Mostly special glue is used for fastening.
Frame method... Quite laborious, since it requires the construction of a frame base on which drywall will be directly fixed.

Let's take a look at each method, its pros and cons, the installation process. And yet, let's decide how to fix drywall to the wall, and which method is better and more reliable.

What is this article about

Frameless way

The first method, and the easiest to execute, is frameless. To carry out cladding in this way, there is a number necessary conditions, namely:

The base for the attachment must be fairly strong. Any damage, fungal infections, etc. should be absent;
The surface must be waterproofed and protected from freezing and moisture;
The wall must be free of all kinds of debris, dust, layers of paint, wallpaper, etc.
And, of course, no curvature, or have a slight curvature.

Here is a small number of features and factors that are directly important when using this fastening method.

Now let's look at what we need to fix drywall. Of course, after the question of how to attach drywall to the wall becomes a question, the question arises, what tool is needed and what materials, here is the main list:

These are wall drywall sheets. This is our main material to work with;
Plaster mix. Useful for sealing seams, roughness and unevenness of the wall;
Of course, you need a container to prepare the solution;
A jigsaw, or ordinary, is better, of course, electric;
A knife is a blade, in the common people a painting knife;
A rubber hammer is useful for leveling the sheets;
A natural attribute for all work is building level, fishing line and tape measure;
Rule;
And the last tool on our list is the spatula.

Completed with the list of instruments. Now, having prepared them, you need to proceed directly to the installation of drywall on the walls. And consider the order of work.
The procedure for performing work to sew up a wall with drywall in a frameless way.

Step-by-step instruction

This montage drywall construction frameless way can be considered complete. We wait until everything is dry, putty the seams, install the skirting boards, and you're done.

Frame installation method

It's time to consider the second method of plasterboard wall cladding. Wireframe method. It is, of course, more laborious, complex and costly, but it has a number of advantages over the previous method, let's see how this design is better:

When installed in this way, the heat and sound insulation of the room increases;
Unlike the frameless method, it does not require much attention to surface preparation;
Provides the ability to eliminate the global curvature of the walls;
It is used without problems in damp and freezing areas, for their protection and insulation.

Let's see what a wireframe connection looks like:

As it has already become clear, for the installation of such a structure, it is necessary to provide for the installation of a frame, to which gypsum plasterboards are subsequently fixed. There are only a few material options for creating a frame base:

Wooden frame. Quite cheap, but short-lived when mounted on a freezing or damp wall, as it quickly corrodes.
Galvanized profile frame. More expensive, but at the same time durable, easy to use, working with it is many times easier than with a wooden frame.

We will stop considering this type of fastening on the use of a galvanized profile. Here you can read about fixing gypsum plasterboard to a wooden crate.

Materials and tools

Of course, there are a number of tools and materials that will be needed during installation, and let's get to know them:

The main material, as was, and remains wall drywall.
The next thing we need is, or wooden profiles, or galvanized metal profiles (we opted for galvanized ones).
To secure the frame, you will need metal suspensions.
The hangers themselves are required, of course, to be fixed to the wall, and screws and dowels will help with this.
Of course, you cannot do without a drill and a hammer drill for preparing the holes for fasteners.
A putty is useful for sealing seams, and of course a spatula.
The profile will need to be adjusted to the desired size, either a grinder or metal scissors will help with this.
To check the evenness of the surface, you need a level and a plumb line.
During work, everything needs to be measured and, of course, you should use a tape measure.
And the last on our list is a screwdriver and self-tapping screws, where can we do without them if you need to attach something.

Step-by-step instruction

We figured out the tool, and now it's time to move on to performing the work on fixing drywall directly. When installing drywall sheets in this way, there are a number of features, so you need to strictly know the algorithm of work and follow it.

And here is the algorithm itself, step-by-step instruction performance of work:

The first step is to measure the room, measure the required amount of material, and the calculations associated with this data;
Further, the marking of the location of the profiles and suspensions is carried out;
Then we fix the profile, horizontally guides (to the floor and ceiling), vertically side, and then also vertically with a step of 50 centimeters bearing;
The suspensions, in turn, are placed at a distance of 70–80 centimeters;
Thus, the frame is almost complete. It remains to securely fasten everything and check the fasteners. Then you can proceed directly to the installation of drywall sheets;
First of all, we provide thermal insulation layer, which is made of glass wool, arranging it between the profiles;
Now we can proceed directly to fastening the sheets. We arrange a sheet of drywall, check the evenness of the surface, and then fasten the sheet to the profiles with self-tapping screws, while screwing it in so that the head of the self-tapping screw is hidden in the sheet 2-3 millimeters deep;
The first sheet is ready, in the same way we mount the following sheets, do not forget that it is necessary to mount drywall so that the seams go with an offset, and there are no cross joints;
After installing the drywall directly, you should deal with the seams, they need to be putty. Holes from screws are also subject to putty, since they also need to be hidden.

So the second method of securing has come to an end. In fact, it is used in most cases for quickly leveling the wall surface, since installation is not very expensive, and generally levels the surface, which gives the wall a new life.

Thus, there are two types of the main methods of plasterboard cladding, and you now know about them, and then, which one is more suitable for your room, the choice is strictly yours. I would only like to note that with the usual preparation of the wall for decoration, you can use the first method, but with large irregularities, dampness, and freezing, the second is more suitable.

Working with drywall with your own hands, the walls which can be perfectly aligned, or used for the construction of lightweight durable partitions - is quite accessible even for a novice builder. Plasterboard is excellent for finishing the concrete walls of high-rise apartments and leveling curved surfaces in private houses. This material is able to reduce high audibility from the street and additionally insulate the enclosing structures.

The big advantage of drywall over others finishing materials is the fact that it is possible to create whole complexes of niches and shelves built into the wall from it, to make original arched structures.

With the use of this material, it is carried out in two ways - by fixing drywall sheets on a frame lathing, or by gluing the gypsum board to the wall using a special plaster-based assembly compound.

If the process of leveling surfaces with the help of plaster solutions requires rather high skills, and if there are large drops on the walls - even extraordinary skill, then working with drywall in such a comparison can be called simple. The main thing in this process is to correctly and accurately perform each of the installation stages.

To put the walls in order without hesitation and difficulties, you need to prepare well for this event by purchasing necessary materials and tools, as well as having studied the installation instructions for a particular structure.

Preparing the surface of the walls before leveling will also not be superfluous, especially since it will not take much time and effort, but it will be of great benefit.

Drywall installation tools

For the installation of drywall structures, special tools will be required, moreover, for gluing the material, less of them will be required than for fixing to the frame.

In order not to repeat and not create two lists for each type of work separately, you can include them in one, but with minor clarifications.

Shurupove rt for mounting the frame and fixing the drywall to the crate.
Putty knife average size for applying putty and glue.
Notched trowel for spreading the adhesive over the surface of the sheets.
or a regular building level - for marking and monitoring the evenness of the wall being mounted.
Sharp construction or office knife - for cutting material.
An electric drill with a hammer drill and concrete drills - for attaching the frame structure to ceilings, walls, floors.
A mixer attachment for mixing glue (if it will be used to attach drywall to the wall) and putty compounds.
Paint roller for priming wall surfaces.
Container for adhesive with a volume of approximately 8 liters.
Shears for cutting metal - for cutting galvanized profiles.
Processing planeredges- chamfering.
Grout for processing sealed joints between sheets.
Grinder - "grinder" and disc for cutting thin metal.
Cutter - for fastening metal profiles to each other.

The rule by which the flatness of the surface is checked.
Measuring and control tool - tape measure, plumb line, long metal ruler, square, pencil or marker.

Materials for working with drywall

From the materials it will be necessary to purchase:

Drywall, which needs to be ordered, is 10 ÷ 15% more than the required amount.

Drywall is produced in four types, and each of them is intended for use in different rooms depending on the operating conditions. Sheets have their own recognized color coding system, by which you can easily determine the intended purpose of the material:

The three main types of drywall are ordinary, moisture-resistant and heat-resistant

— Grey colour has ordinary drywall (gypsum plasterboard) used in living quarters with normal humidity air.

- The pink or light purple color of the cardboard indicates that it is a heat-resistant material used for wall cladding around fireplaces and stoves. It is identified by the abbreviation GKLO.

- Green shades are inherent in moisture resistant material, which is suitable for wall decoration, for example, in a bathroom. It is designated by the letters GKLV.

- Dark gray or blue color was assigned to drywall, which combines the qualities of both heat resistance and moisture resistance. This type is designated by the letters GKLVO, and it is used to decorate the walls of baths or boiler rooms.

Sheet sizes different types drywall vary as follows:

Drywall type	Thickness in mm	Width in mm	Sheet length in mm
GKL	8,0; 9,5; 12,5;14; 16	1200
GKL	18 and more	600	1200
GKLV	10; 12,5; 14;16	1200	standard - 2500 (on request - up to 4000 mm)
GKLO	12,5; 14; 16	1200 and 600	similarly
GKLVO	12,5; 14; 16	1200	similarly

Metal profile for installing wall purlins or mounting frame partition.

Profile name	Profile brand	Application area
Guide	MON 50/40	Frame guide profiles for wall cladding and partitioning.
	MON 75/40
	MON 100/40
Rack	MON 50/50	Racks of the frame of partitions and wall sheathing.
	MON 75/50
	MON 100/50
	PP 60/27	Frame for walls and false ceilings.
Guide	MON 28/27	Frame for walls and false ceilings.
Protective corner profile	PU 20/20	Protection of external corners of partitions and walls.
Note: in the marking of profiles, the first number indicates the width, the second the height of the element. The profiles are produced in a standard length of 3000 mm.

Direct hangers - for fixing the racks to the wall, if you need to create a large thickness of insulation or level the wall with large differences.

Sealing tape, which is glued to profiles mounted directly to the wall.

Dry building mixture – assembly adhesive for fixing drywall to walls without installing the lathing.

before installing drywall and for preparation mounted structure to further putty.

Putty on gypsum base- for sealing the joints between the sheets and the subsequent final leveling of the plasterboard wall.
Reinforcing tape or mesh - for gluing joints when their filling.

Special self-tapping screws for working with drywall.

Dowels for fixing the profile posts on a brick or concrete wall, ceiling, floor.

Thermal insulating material - if you plan to insulate or soundproof wall or partition.

Prices for drywall and sheet materials

Drywall and sheet materials

Preparatory activities

Whichever method of mounting drywall on the wall is chosen, it is necessary to prepare the surface before installing it. This must be done so that mold or fungus does not develop under the drywall, and when the material is glued, it adheres tightly to the wall. The preparation process is not so complicated, but it will give a guarantee of long-term operation. new wall without repair work.

The work can be roughly divided into three stages - cleaning the wall, sealing cracks and priming the wall with antiseptic compounds.

The first step is to clean the wall of old coatings such as old flaking plaster and unnecessary wallpaper. If the plaster is solid and adheres well to the wall, then it can only be primed.
Cleaning can be done with a spatula. If you have to remove the wallpaper, it is recommended to wet it intensively by applying water to the surface using a roller with a soft nozzle. When the wallpaper gets wet, it will more easily move away from the wall if you pick it up with a spatula.
If the plaster layer is unstable, unstable, peeling, covered with cracks, then the damaged areas must be removed. This can be done in two ways:

- The first option is to knock down old finish using a hammer drill, or manually - with a chisel and hammer.

- The second option is abundant wetting of the plaster and neatly peeling it off the wall with a spatula.

If a brick wall will be leveled by gluing drywall, then it is imperative to remove from it all the protrusions that could remain on it at the end of the masonry. The protrusions will interfere with the good adhesion of the sheets to the surface. Such irregularities are knocked down with an ordinary hammer or with a puncher.

After that, brick wall must be thoroughly cleaned with an iron brush from residues sand-cement mortar and dust.

Further, if serious cracks are found on the wall, they need to be expanded, cleaned, and after it dries, sealed with plaster mixture, sealant or polyurethane foam... The last option is named in the event that the crack in the wall or plaster layer is large enough.
The next step is to treat the wall with an antiseptic primer. It is applied with a roller.

Priming is a mandatory event, and it is better to carry out it in two layers.

All further work is carried out after the wall surface has completely dried.

Prices for different types of primer

Primer

Aligning walls by gluing drywall

Mounting drywall using gluing is much easier than mounting it on a frame. However, this method of fixing the finish is possible only if the wall surface does not have significant irregularities and deformations in the form of protrusions and recesses more than 5 mm, and the level of the ceiling in the room does not exceed 3 meters.

This installation method will not work even when the wall is supposed to soundproof or, since the materials for this will require a certain space under drywall sheets.

This method is well suited for leveling not very high-quality walls to the ideal and creating a smooth surface for subsequent application or gluing of decorative finishing material.

Gluing works are carried out as follows:

The prepared wall must be measured using a plumb line and a building level. If dents are found on the wall, they must be brought to the same level with total surface, since in these places, after installing drywall, voids may form, where condensation will collect. This is especially important to do in cases where.

You can bring all the recesses and dents to one level using self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the wall at a distance of 200 ÷ 300 mm from each other and to the same level with the entire wall. Then, on top of them, a plaster solution of the required thickness is applied and equal it to the caps of the screws and the rest of the surface.

Before proceeding to the next stage of work, it is necessary to wait for the solution to harden well, since the drywall sheet will rest on it.

The next step is to apply another coat of primer.

The primer will not only protect the wall from various biological influences, but also create reliable adhesion between the wall, adhesive composition and drywall, which will speed up installation and improve the quality of work.

Next, the assembly is kneaded adhesive solution... For this, water is poured into the container. room temperature, into which the dry powdery mixture is poured and kneaded with construction mixer or a drill with a nozzle installed on it. The proportions of the composition of the solution must be indicated by the manufacturer in the manufacturing instructions, which can always be found on the packaging.

It is very important to remember that gypsum-based glue begins to harden very quickly, so it is better to mix it in small portions, otherwise you can spoil a large amount of solution. If the process has begun with grabbing, it is impossible to stop it, even by adding extra water as an emergency.

Further, it is required to provide that the drywall sheet during installation does not rest against the floor surface, it should be raised from it by about 8 ÷ 10 mm. Therefore, a strip of this thickness is temporarily placed under the sheet to be mounted.
A sheet of drywall is laid horizontally on the floor, and the glue mass is dotted on it, in slides, at a distance of 180 ÷ 200 mm from one another. After that, the solution is distributed a little, the sheet rises, is installed in the right place and pressed against the wall.

The installed drywall sheet can be corrected, trimmed in the range of 7 ÷ 10 mm, for example, by tapping on it with a building level or rule. If an uncovered space remains on top (and this is most often the case), then it will best be revetted with fragments of gypsum board only after the installation on the entire wall is complete, giving direction to the drywall sheets.

Further, the work goes in the same order. All sheets are installed to each other end-to-end, with the fit of the factory chamfers. Of course, they do not have additional fragments, chamfers at the cut. There is no it on the end sides of the gypsum board. This means that for such joints it must be done independently, using a plane or knife.
At the end of the installation, the glue is allowed to dry thoroughly, so the lined walls are left for about a day.
After that, you can proceed to the sealing of the joints. First, it is recommended to treat them with a primer, and then, after the soil has dried, the joints of the sheets are glued with a serpyanka mesh, which reinforces the joints, and the putty layer applied on top will not crack.

A thin layer of putty is applied to the joints glued with a mesh using a spatula. It is best to level it immediately to the maximum, so that after hardening it is less work anti-aliasing.

If the serpyanka tape does not have its own adhesive base, then a serpyanka is first applied to the joint, and then a serpyanka is applied on top of it, and then it is pressed into the solution with a spatula, after which the excess is removed.

When the putty dries out, it is rubbed with a special tool - grout, on which a fine-grain sandpaper or abrasive mesh is installed.

After the completion of the filling and drying of the joints, the entire surface is covered with a primer, which must also dry completely.

High-quality filling is a guarantee aesthetic appearance plasterboard wall

Whatever technology is used when installing a plasterboard wall, the final stage before finishing advocates giving surfaces of perfect evenness and smoothness using a putty. How correctly or for painting - in a special publication of our portal.

Aligning the wall with plasterboard using a frame structure

Installation on a frame is more difficult, but opens up more possibilities

Mounting drywall on a frame is a more complicated and troublesome option, but you cannot do without it if you intend to additionally insulate the wall and soundproof... The frame can be made of galvanized metal profiles or timber.

Illustration
	Preparatory work is underway. The wall is cleaned of exfoliated plaster and treated with a primer. When leveling the wall with plasterboard, whether the structure will be with or without insulation, the coating base surface an antiseptic composition is necessary. Further, the wall must be marked by marking on it vertical lines, which will serve as a guide for the installation of the racks. The spacing between the drains is taken equal to 400 or 600 mm - these values fit well into the standard width of 1200 mm gypsum plasterboard.
	The next step is to fix the guide profiles on the ceiling and floor, into which the racks will be installed and fixed.
	Profiles can be fixed to the floor, walls and ceiling using dowels, depending on the surface material - driven or screwed in. Profiles can be fixed to wooden bases with self-tapping screws
	To improve the quality of noise isolation, prevent vibration transmission to the frame and resonance gypsum plasterboard, before fixing the profiles to the floor, ceiling or wall, it is recommended to stick a special tape on the shelf adjacent to the surface.
	Having fixed the upper and lower guides on the stream and the floor, ideally exactly in the same vertical plane (this is necessarily controlled with a plumb bob), you can proceed to the installation of the racks. It must be remembered that how accurately the guides will be exposed, the entire plasterboard wall will be so even.
	The frame racks are installed inside the guides, set along the marking lines, they are given a vertical position, and then they are fixed with a cutter. If there is no such tool, then fastening can be carried out using self-tapping screws.
	In this photo, the assembled frame is clearly visible, but it has not yet been finally fixed to the wall with the help of suspensions.
	Further, each of the posts must be fixed with several straight hangers. These brackets are fixed to the wall with dowels at a vertical distance of 500 ÷ 600 mm.
	Then, with the help of self-tapping screws, the racks are fixed to the suspensions (the verticality of the profile must be checked again). This makes the structure rigid, connected to the main wall.
	In this photo, the racks of the entire frame are fixed to the wall, and the crate is ready for further work.
	The protruding parts of the suspensions are bent to the sides. When the crate is ready, you can lay all the communication wiring, if, for example, you plan to mount sockets or switches on this wall.
	If the wall is additionally insulated, then after the installation of the frame is completed, it is laid between the racks thermal insulation material- mineral wool. Further, the insulation must be closed with a vapor barrier membrane. It is attached to a wooden crate with a stapler and staples, and to a metal crate using double-sided masking or assembly tape.
	After that, proceed to the installation of drywall. In accordance with the technology, it is recommended to install the bottom sheets with a gap of about 10 mm from the floor - for this, during the installation process, you can use temporary pads, for example, a wooden batten. This is necessary so that the sheet from below does not begin to crumble under its own weight. Usually, the height of the sheet is not enough to cover the entire wall space to the ceiling - a section will remain on top, which will later be covered with a separate fragment. It is recommended that sheets, starting from the second and on, be laid “in a spaced manner,” so that the horizontal seams are spaced apart: one on top - the next on the bottom, etc. An example is shown in the figure.
	Drywall is fixed with special self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the profiles directly through the sheet, without preliminary drilling. Fastening is carried out in all racks and jumpers (if any). In this case, the self-tapping screw should not be closer than 10 mm to any of the edges of the sheet. The screw cap after screwing in should "sink" in the drywall by about 1 mm. The pitch between the self-tapping screws is from 250 to 350 mm. If suddenly the self-tapping screw "did not go", then after removing it, it is impossible to screw another into the same hole - you need to step aside at least 50 mm.
	This photo clearly shows the area that is not filled with drywall, and it has to be closed. To do this, it is necessary to install a crossbar from the profile between the posts, to which the upper edge of the already mounted sheet and the lower side of the missing fragment will be attached with self-tapping screws.
	To fix the crossbeam on the racks, you can fix the corners specially made from the sections of the profile.
	The finished crossbar is installed between the posts, half slides under the installed sheet and is fastened to the corners using a cutter or self-tapping screws.
	Another option for making a jumper. A segment is measured and cut off from the profile, equal to the distance between the posts plus the width of the post profile, since the wide part of the cross member should be on the posts, between which it will be fixed. Then, side shelves the cross members are notched at a distance equal to half the profile width and bent outward at a right angle. They will become those shelves through which fastening is carried out using a cutter or self-tapping screws.
	A fragment of a plasterboard sheet of the required dimensions is measured and cut out. After that, it is attached to the racks and upper part installed cross member. Along the edges of the sheets at the junction with sharp knife or a chamfer is made with a planer - this is necessary so that you can qualitatively fill the joining line of the fragments. Such a chamfer is made at all edges, where it is not provided for by the sheet design itself. Fragments are fastened with self-tapping screws according to the usual rules.
	A plasterboard wall should look something like this.
	After that, a serpyanka mesh is glued to all joints, and then they are sealed with putty. In addition, all the holes must be putty, from the caps of the self-tapping screws so that they do not appear later rusty stains through decorative trim. The final stage of work is the coating of all walls sheathed with plasterboard with a primer, and after it dries - with a putty.

Installation of a lightweight plasterboard partition

Installation is somewhat similar to wall cladding on a frame structure. But there are also some differences here, the frame is fixed to the walls only from the ends, and sheathed with plasterboard on both sides.

A frame partition made of gypsum plasterboard has the following basic design:

The frame is mounted from a wooden beam or a galvanized metal profile. The frame racks are mounted at a distance from each other based on the width of the drywall sheet, so that its edges are half their width, and at least one rack is located in the middle of the canvas. It should be noted that quite often the frame is made combined, that is, in some places in metallic profile for rigidity, a wooden bar is inserted.
The frame is sheathed on both sides with plasterboard. It is sometimes practiced to cover one or both sides with two layers of material.
Soundproofing (heat-insulating) mats- as a rule, basalt mineral wool is used for this.

Installation of a plasterboard partition is carried out as follows:

Illustration	Brief description of the performed operation
	The first step is to determine the place of installation of the partition, its marking is carried out. To do this, points are determined on the wall and on the floor using a laser or regular level and a tape measure, which are then combined into lines using a punched out paint line.
	Then, focusing on the line on the wall and floor, using a plumb line, points are determined for marking off the markings on the ceiling.
	Immediately, you need to determine the location of the doorway and make marks on the ceiling and floor to install perfectly vertical struts. Fastening the horizontal track to the floor is carried out only before and after the measured area reserved for the doorway.
	After accurate marking of all surfaces, the area of fixing the metal profiles will immediately be visible. The first to fix the rails to the walls, ceiling and floor, into which the racks will then be installed.
	These elements are fixed with dowels (when wooden bases self-tapping screws are used). First, through the guides are drilled through holes, and then dowels are inserted and hammered into them (screws are screwed in).
	Further, when the frame for the frame is ready, you need to immediately install the racks that will frame the doorway. In these profiles, it is recommended to immediately make inlays from a wooden bar. The racks are installed from floor to ceiling and fixed in the guides with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in from both sides.
	It is even better if two racks are installed next to each other, combined with beams. This design will make the frame more rigid and reliable.
	The next step is to measure and mark the height of the doorway, where the transverse element will be fixed, completing its formation. For this, the profile is notched at the corners, the side parts are bent and fixed on the racks.
	In order to give rigidity to the crossbeam and the entire opening, the crossbar must be additionally connected to the rail fixed to the ceiling with one or two short posts.
	Further, all other racks are installed in the guides and fixed strictly in a vertical position using a cutter or self-tapping screws. The step between the posts is the same as indicated in the previous instructions - 400 or 600 mm.
	After installing the racks, you can proceed to the installation of drywall sheets. They are installed and fixed in the same way as for wall cladding. In the area of \ u200b \ u200bthe location of the doorway, drywall should not be cut in advance. It will be more convenient to fix a whole sheet to the frame, and make cuts on it with a sharp knife in place.
	The upper side of the resulting rectangle is cut through, and on the side, longer one, only cardboard is cut - then it will break exactly along the notch.
	After finishing the installation of drywall sheets on one side, you can start laying communication cables, for which small holes are made in certain places of the profiles - with the expectation that a pipe with wires (corrugated or smooth-walled) will pass through them. It is forbidden to pass cables through holes in galvanized profiles without a sleeve tube.
	In the selected place, where the placement of sockets and switches is planned, holes-sockets are drilled on the installed sheets of gypsum board for mounting the socket outlets. Cable routing is connected to them.
	If it was planned, the installation of heat and sound insulation material (mineral wool) is carried out. Insulation panels or mats should be placed between the uprights.
	After completing the soundproofing process, a door frame is installed in the doorway. It is leveled, and if necessary, wedges are carefully driven into the gaps between it and the frame, which will help fix it in the desired position. Then, it is screwed to the frame posts. If there are large enough gaps around it, they need to be filled with polyurethane foam, wait for it to dry and carefully cut off the excess.
	After that, drywall is fixed on the other side of the partition. This does not change the installation principle. Drywall on doorway fixed and cut in the same way as in the previous case.
	The final stage before the primer and putty of the entire surface is the sealing of the joints between the sheets and the holes from the caps of the screws.

It is very important to carry out qualitatively, as they will determine the smoothness of the surface of the plasterboard wall, and this will depend on appearance decorative finishes.

Video: a master class on the construction of a lightweight frame made of plasterboard

Working with drywall is a creative process, and if you really feel the mood to carry it out on your own, then you can safely get down to business. Having prepared all the tools and materials, as well as having studied the installation instructions, even that ore-loving owner of an apartment or house who has not previously come across a construction business will be able to hold this event.

Drywall has long occupied its niche in the market. It enjoys well-deserved popularity as it is a versatile material that can be attached to walls or ceilings, or used as a partition. However, depending on the installation site, the installation methods will change, various tricks will appear that must be taken into account when carrying out work.

Plasterboard is used for leveling walls and ceilings in a room.

It can be done in several ways: on a metal or wooden frame, or on glue. Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages. It is worth considering them in more detail.

Frame mounting on walls: the necessary materials and tools

This method is applicable for any premises, regardless of their size and purpose. The frame is used when closing walls and ceilings, as well as when erecting a partition made of gypsum plasterboard. It is worth noting that the crate is assembled in almost the same way in all cases.

At the initial stage, it is necessary to prepare all materials and tools. To carry out the work you will need:

puncher;
screwdriver;
hammer;
assembly knife;
self-tapping screws for wood or metal (depending on the material of the lathing);
scissors or a hacksaw for metal;
drywall;
profiles or slats;
mounting hangers;
pencil;
level;
roulette;
plumb line;
square.

Back to the table of contents

Preparing the walls and marking the base

Important! Preparation of the base includes cleaning the wall from easily peelable coatings, repairing in the presence of significant damage, removing deformations.

The next stage is marking. From the wall to be closed, it is necessary to indent the distance necessary for laying communications and insulation. Further, the location of the guide profiles located on the floor and ceiling, as well as on the walls, is noted. All guides must be in the same plane. Then it is marked where the rack profiles will be located. The distance between them should be 40-60 cm. In this case, it is necessary to calculate the distance in such a way that the edges of the drywall sheets lie on the profiles, and do not fall into the gap between them.

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Installation of a frame for gypsum board

Next, the frame is assembled. First of all, guide profiles are installed on the floor and ceiling. The reliability of the entire structure will depend on them, so they need to be fixed very carefully. Installation of profiles is carried out using dowels with a pitch of 40-60 cm. Further, guides on the walls are installed in the same way.

Then, mounting plumb lines are mounted to the wall along the line of the bearing profiles. The pitch is 60 cm. On adjacent lines, it is advisable to shift the plumb lines relative to each other. You can arrange them in a checkerboard pattern. This will give greater strength and rigidity to the structure. Further, rack profiles are inserted into the guides and bred to their places. They attach to guides and plumb lines. Self-tapping screws can be used for this operation. If the plumb lines have "ears", they should be wrapped inside the frame. After installing the vertical profiles, proceed to the installation of the transverse ones. All operations are performed in the same way.

If the profile is too long, it can be trimmed using a hacksaw or metal shears. If, on the contrary, it is short, then it is necessary to increase the length using special connectors.
The lathing of wooden bars is assembled in the same way.

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Installation of gypsum board on walls

The last step is installing drywall. However, before proceeding to the final stage, it is necessary to resolve the issue of noise and heat insulation of the room. As a heater, you can use mineral wool, foam sheets, cork. All of these materials absorb sound well. Installation of communications, laying of engineering systems is carried out before the walls are sewn up with gypsum board.
When the room is insulated and all communications are connected, you can start installing the sheets. To do this, you need metal screws.

Important! GKL is drilled every 30-40 cm to all frame profiles.

During installation, the following rules must be observed:

Sheets should be staggered or like brickwork.
GKL can be mounted both vertically and horizontally.
Self-tapping screws are screwed into the material at right angles, deviations are unacceptable. The heads must be recessed into the drywall by at least 1 mm. Tails - protrude from the profile by at least 10 mm.
Panels must be securely fixed around the perimeter and in the center to prevent sagging. The edges of the sheets must fit onto the profile.
When fixing the gypsum board, it is necessary to indent from the edge of the sheet with a factory cut at least 10 mm, with its own - at least 15 mm.

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Pros and cons of this type of drywall installation

This method has much more positive sides, it is more often used:

walls are leveled even with significant drops, pits or ledges;
all flaws of the base are masked;
reliable fastening of drywall;
there is no need for thorough preparation of the base, its leveling, etc.;
possibility additional insulation and soundproofing the room;
lack of "wet" operations;
can be used in any room.

There are only three main disadvantages:

reducing the area of the room;
low maintainability;
there is no solid wall behind the gypsum board.

If assembling the frame seems too troublesome, then you can try to simply glue the material onto the walls.

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Fastening drywall to glue

It is not always possible to glue drywall. It can only be used if the following conditions are met:

There is no need for additional heat or sound insulation of the room. Qualitatively fix the gypsum board on mineral wool or other material is impossible: after a while it will fall off.
Irregularities on the walls do not exceed 20 mm. Otherwise, the sheets will be skewed, like the base, or will not stick, since the glue in the cavities will simply not reach the wall.
The height of the room does not exceed the length of the sheet. The standard panel size is 2500x1200 mm. If the height is greater, then you will have to look for a sheet with a length of 3 m, but not everywhere there are such. Extending the length using cut pieces is not allowed. It is difficult to do it smoothly and at the same time with high quality.

If at least one of these conditions is not met, it is better to use wireframe method fastening. You cannot glue drywall to the ceiling: in this case, the crate must be used. Of the special advantages of this type of installation, space savings can be noted. It is very convenient in small spaces.

The main task of repairs in most houses and apartments is to bring the walls back to normal condition. After all, a couple of decades ago, almost no one talked about perfect smooth walls and did not think. Aligned according to the principle "somehow". You can correct the situation according to all the rules: knock down old plaster and completely plaster on the lighthouses. This is correct and reliable. But long, dirty, expensive. It is easier to use the so-called dry methods: level the surface of the wall with plasterboard (GKL). The second task that often has to be solved during the renovation process: redevelopment. We are removing old partitions, installing new ones. New interroom and decorative partitions are also made using drywall. How to align and install drywall walls with your own hands and we will tell you in the article.

How to sheathe walls with plasterboard

To begin with, consider the case when you need to level the surface of existing walls. There are three options for attaching drywall to walls:

The latest technology - installing drywall on glue - is the fastest, but it also has drawbacks. First, there is not glue everywhere under the finish, so hanging cabinets on such a wall is problematic. If you plan to fix something to the wall in advance, lay a continuous layer of glue at this height or install a foundation beam, which will also be an additional beacon when setting the sheet level. Then the problem will be solved. Another disadvantage - there are small drops... That is, the surface is imperfect. The difference is 2-3 mm. The sheet bends slightly between the "pieces" of glue. However, this is a good way to quickly level a wall.

For more information on how to glue drywall on the wall, see the video.

Fastening to the frame

Since when gluing drywall to the wall, no fasteners are needed, we will talk about the frame and mainly metal. The rules for attaching to a wooden one are the same, they just use self-tapping screws for wood.

GKL dimensions and purpose

A few words about what sizes the sheets are and how to put drywall on the walls. Standard sizes such: the width is always 1.2 m, the height is 2.5 and 3 meters. Sometimes there is a "non-standard" of shorter length: it is easier to work with small ones, but more seams are obtained, which then have to be repaired. GKL thickness:

12.5 mm - universal material for walls and ceilings;
6 mm and 9 mm for curved surfaces.

It is often said that 9 mm sheets are ceiling sheets. But manufacturers do not have such recommendations. Any of the manufacturing plants positions the thin sheets as those used for finishing curved surfaces.

Bevels are made along the long edges of the sheet. They are needed so that the joint can be glued with reinforcing tape and sealed with putty. It is the side where there is a bevel that is the front. It is deployed inside the room.

How to dock

If it is necessary to join sheets in height, arrange the joints so that a long longitudinal line is not obtained. They say that the sheets are stacked at random or with a shift. In this case, it is desirable that the displacement was at least 40-60 cm. Long joints are the most likely places for cracks to appear. By shifting the seam, you are almost 100% likely to get rid of cracks (for an example of laying sheets, see the figure).

If the wall is sheathed with two layers of plasterboard, then the vertical seams are also shifted. The sheet on the top must be installed so that the joint of the bottom one falls in its middle (shift by half the width - 60 cm).

How to fasten and with what step

During installation, the sheet is pressed against the frame and fixed with a screwdriver and special self-tapping screws with flat heads. If the frame is assembled from metal, take self-tapping screws TN25 (3.5x25 mm). In stores they are called "for drywall". Length - 25 mm, color - black (more likely to break) or white. For a frame made of wood, select those close in size with the flattest head: there will be less putty.

It is important to tighten the fasteners to the required depth during installation: the cap should be sunk into the sheet, but the cardboard should not tear. It is also necessary that the self-tapping screw be installed strictly perpendicular to the plane of the sheet: this way there is less chance of damaging the layer of cardboard, which in this structure is responsible for rigidity.

To learn how you can simplify the work and make the self-tapping screw go to the desired depth, watch the video.

When assembling the frame on a solid wall, the distance between the posts should be at least 60 cm. Then it turns out that each sheet is attached to three vertical profiles: two at the edges and one in the middle. In this case, the edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the profile.

Having stepped back from the edge 10-12 mm, screws are screwed in. They can be placed, as in the figure above, one opposite the other, or they can be offset, as in the figure below. Installation step - 250-300 mm. Fastened along the perimeter and along the middle profile.

One more important point: when cutting out sheets, keep in mind that its height should be 10-12 mm shorter than the height from floor to ceiling. This is necessary in case of shrinkage: so that the wall or partition has the ability to compensate for the change in height without cracks (especially important for timber and panel houses).

These are, perhaps, all the main points of working with drywall (without taking into account the peculiarities of mounting profiles).

Plasterboard partition

Installing the partition is a little more difficult, therefore, we will describe the process in steps from a photo.

Markup

First, mark the installation site of the partition. The easiest way to do this is with a laser plane builder (laser level). This line is applied to walls, floors and ceilings.

If there is no laser level, you will have to use a regular building ( good quality) and a plumb line. First, mark a line on the floor - this is easiest. Then, using a level, transfer it to the walls. If both lines on the walls are vertical, the line connecting them must be exactly above the line on the floor. Whether this is true or not, you can check with a plumb line, lowering it from the mark on the ceiling to the floor line.

Partition marking using a level and a plumb line

It is necessary to achieve a perfect match - the quality of all work depends on it.

Assembling the frame

We will consider the assembly of the frame from galvanized profiles. Guide profiles are installed along the marked line on the floor and ceiling. It is marked UW or PN - bearing profile. They are usually fastened with dowels - 6 * 40 mm or 6 * 60 mm, the distance between two dowels is 30-40 cm.

PN-profile has a standard depth (wall height) - 40 mm, but it can be of different widths 50 mm, 75 mm or 100 mm. The thickness of the partition depends on the width of the bearing profile, as well as the thickness of the insulation and / or soundproof material you can put it there.

Bearing racks are inserted into the guide profiles. They are labeled CW or PS - rack-mount profile. It differs from the guide by the presence of additional shelves on the walls. These shelves make it more rigid, increasing its load-bearing capacity. The width of the rack profiles depends on the width of the carriers: they must be the same. That is, the racks must be the same width. It is between them that the insulation is then installed.

The racks are attached to the guides in two ways. The first is used mainly by professional builders. They work as a cutter - special tool, which breaks through and bends to the sides of the metal, holding the two parts together. Amateur builders, when working independently with drywall, are attached to "fleas" (also called bugs and seeds) - small self-tapping screws with a screw in the lower part - TEX 9.5 (3.5 * 9.5 mm). They drill the metal themselves, speeding up the assembly process (no need to drill holes). The racks are attached on each side with at least two self-tapping screws.

One point: if you are installing a partition in a high-rise building or on the first floor of your house, then together with the junction of the rack and the ceiling rail, put special film or some material that will prevent squeaking. When people walk, vibrations occur, which are transmitted to the profiles, because of which they rub and squeak. The second option is to make the racks 1 cm shorter. It is more correct: both the shrinkage of the house is provided and unpleasant sounds no.

The pitch of the racks is 60 cm or less. This distance is due to the width of the sheet of gypsum plasterboard (drywall), which is standardly equal to 120 cm. As mentioned earlier, it turns out that each sheet is attached to three racks. So it turns out that there should be 60 cm between the verticals.

If the gap between the two racks is more than 60 cm, but less than 120 cm, a vertical profile is still placed between them in the middle, otherwise this section will "bunch" - the sheet will stagger and sag. One more point: the first pillar is attached to the wall a little closer - the first sheet will be attached to the entire plane of the extreme profile, therefore the distance should be slightly less - 57.5 cm.

It is desirable to strengthen the profiles to which the doors or windows will be attached. The easiest way to do this is with a wooden block. suitable size... It is inserted inside, and fastened with a pair of self-tapping screws. You need to use dry wood so that the timber does not twist.

After all the racks are exposed and secured, the structures are given greater rigidity with the help of jumpers - horizontally installed pieces of rack-mount profiles. They are made in one of the three ways suggested in the photo. The third option is the easiest to manufacture and easy to assemble.

Jumpers are usually placed at the height where two sheets will join. Their edges are necessarily fixed, so jumpers are needed there. For the rest - in increments of 60-80 cm.If the wall is large, put it every 60 cm, if it is small, 80 cm is enough. Crossbars above the doorway are required: at the height door frame... It is also desirable to strengthen them by putting inside wooden block.

Laying of communications

After installing all the crossbars, you can start laying communications and wiring. Desirable all electric wires mount in a corrugated sleeve. If you put the partition in wooden house or on a wooden frame, it must be metal. In houses made of non-combustible materials, in walls made of plasterboard on a frame made of galvanized steel, it is allowed to use plastic corrugated hoses made of non-combustible raw materials (there is a mark "NG").

Plasterboard cladding and heat / sound insulation

After laying the communications, they proceed to the installation of plasterboard sheets. They are mounted in the same way as for cladding. Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall cladding begins on one side. Then, on the other hand, between the profiles (bars) of the frame, an insulation and / or sound insulator is installed. After its installation, the plasterboard wall is sewn up on the other side.

Insulation for walls and drywall partitions is used as usual:

In principle, it is possible to use other heaters, but the listed ones are the most popular.

How to cut drywall

When making drywall walls with your own hands, you will have to cut sheets: they do not always become whole. To do this, you will only need a sharp clerical knife (for paper), a long, even object - a ruler, board, timber, level, rule, etc. And a wooden block a couple of meters long, but it's not necessary, it's just easier with it. That's all. A jigsaw may be needed when cutting curved lines, but there will be a lot of dust.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

draw a line with a pencil on the front side along which you need to cut off the drywall;
we apply a ruler (bar, board) along the line and cut the cardboard with a clerical knife;
we put a bar under the cut line;
tap on the shorter side with the palm of your hand, which causes the plaster to break along the cut line;
break the sheet along the entire length of the cut;
bend the broken piece, cut the remaining whole cardboard.

Everything is really very simple. The main task: to mark correctly. There are no further problems (unless the sheet is broken).

Video lessons

Not all subtleties can be described, some are better to see. We have selected videos in which there are features of working with drywall. Basically, they relate to the assembly of the frame from profiles. This is really the most time consuming part. And on how correctly the frame will be made, it depends on how flat the wall or partition will be.

How to make a plasterboard false wall

How to make reinforced racks in the partition. This method of assembling the frame is non-standard, but that does not mean that it is wrong. The racks are really stiffer. This is necessary if you are building a full-fledged interior partition from drywall. Amplification will not hurt here. The disadvantages are that it will take more time, and the cost of such a frame is higher.

Which profile is better: smooth or corrugated. The market has different models profiles, including those with uneven and rough walls and sidewalls. With the same metal thickness, it is more rigid, which seems to be good. But how good is he at work? Watch the video.

Plasterboard partition from start to finish. Here the installation of the partition is filmed step by step. Everything is quite accessible, you can take it as a basis and build walls from drywall with your own hands.

The main task of renovation in apartments and houses is to bring the walls back to normal condition. Just a few decades ago, almost no one had heard of perfectly flat walls. Aligned based on the principle of "somehow". The situation can be corrected according to all the rules: remove the old plaster and re-plaster on the lighthouses. It is reliable and correct, but at the same time it is difficult, expensive and time-consuming. It is much easier to use dry methods: align the walls with gypsum plasterboard (gypsum plasterboards).

The second task, which is most often solved in the process of repair work, is redevelopment. Old partitions are removed, and new ones are mounted in their place. Decorative and interior partitions also installed using drywall. This article will discuss how to level and install drywall walls with your own hands: photos, videos.

To begin with, it is worth considering the cases when it becomes necessary to level the surface of existing walls. There are several options for attaching drywall sheets to walls:

On a base of wooden blocks.

It is mounted from jumpers and racks, but is attached directly to the wall itself. Too large differences are much more difficult to compensate, first you have to look for the most protruding parts on the wall. Then there are two ways: the first is to try to reduce the drops, constricting the most protruding places, the second is to focus on them, laying additional bars everywhere.

The main disadvantage of fastenings on wooden blocks is that when using insufficiently dry (with a humidity level above 20 percent), they can "lead" during drying, therefore, the whole structure will warp. There is also a possibility of wood destruction by fungi and pests. Despite this, some regions prefer this way because the prices for sawn timber are much lower than for profiles.

Installation of sheets on a frame made of a galvanized profile allows you to get a perfectly flat surface with any curvature.

The profiles are mounted on special clamps, from which the frame is assembled, so that the front of the lintel and the posts lie in the same plane. Since the gypsum boards are at a decent distance from the main wall, electrical wiring and communications can be laid between the wall and it. Another advantage of the profile frame is the possibility of laying a sound absorber and insulation. The disadvantage of this option is that without insulation, it conducts sounds well: blows on the wall cladding sound similar to a drum.

Installation of plasterboard sheets directly on the walls.

In other words, installing the gypsum board on glue. Use "liquid nails" or special mixtures... This method is available if the plane of the walls is relatively flat, with slight differences of 2-3 centimeters. Glue is applied to the surface of the walls or sheet (in piles, if there are drops, and in stripes, if the walls are even), then the sheet is mounted in place, set using a level, secured with props and wedges.

The latest technology - planting drywall on glue, is the fastest, but it also has drawbacks. Not everywhere there is glue under the sheets, so hanging cabinets on such a wall is quite problematic. If you have previously planned to fix something to the wall, install a foundation beam as an additional beacon when setting the level, or lay a continuous layer of glue. Then the problem will be solved.

Another disadvantage is small differences, the surface is not perfectly flat (the difference is 2-3 millimeters). Between the "pieces" of glue, the gypsum board bends a little. However, this method is great for quickly leveling walls.

Do-it-yourself fastenings to the frame, drywall walls: photo, video

So, when gluing a sheet to a wall, no fasteners are required, we will mainly talk about metal frame... The rules for fastening to a wooden one are exactly the same, they just use special screws for wood.

Appointment of drywall sheets and their sizes

A few words about how to lay the gypsum board on the walls and what sizes they are. The standard dimensions are as follows: height - 2.5 and 3 meters, width is always 1.2 meters. Sometimes there are "non-standard", slightly shorter lengths. Small sheets are much easier to work with, but there are more seams that need to be repaired. GKL thickness:

6 mm and 9 mm - designed for curved surfaces.

12.5 mm is a versatile material for ceilings and walls.

It is often said that nine-millimeter sheets are ceiling-mounted. But manufacturing companies do not have such recommendations. Any manufacturer positions thin sheets such as those used to finish uneven surfaces.

Bevels are made along the entire length of the edges of the sheet, which are necessary in order to glue the reinforcing tape and seal with putty. It is the side on which there is a bevel that is the front. It should be turned inside the room.

How to join sheets

If it becomes necessary to join gypsum plasterboards in height, try to arrange the joints so that a long line does not form, they are laid with a shift or apart, it is desirable that the offset does not exceed 60 centimeters. Long joints are where cracks form. Moving the seam, with almost a hundred percent probability, you get rid of cracks.

If the wall is sheathed with several layers of drywall, in this case, the vertical seams are also shifted. The sheet on top should be set offset by half the width (60 centimeters).

DIY plasterboard wall installation rules: photo, video

During installation, the plasterboard sheets are pressed against the frame and fastened using special self-tapping screws with flat heads and screwdrivers. If the frame is metal, use TN25 screws (25x3.5 mm), in stores they are called "for drywall". Color - white or black (it breaks more often), length - 25 millimeters. For a wooden frame, self-tapping screws with a flat head close in size are selected.

When installing fasteners, it is very important to screw the self-tapping screw to the required depth: the cap should be drowned in the sheet, while, without tearing the cardboard, it should also be twisted perpendicular to the plane of the sheet, thus, you reduce the likelihood of damaging the layer of cardboard that is responsible for rigidity.

When assembling the frame on a solid wall, the gaps between the posts should not exceed 60 centimeters. Then it turns out that each plasterboard sheet is attached to three verticals: one in the middle of the profile and two along its edges. In this case, the border of the sheet falls in the middle of the profile.

Having made an indent from the edge of 10-12 millimeters, screws are screwed in. They can be shifted or placed above one by one. Installation step - 250-300 millimeters. Fastened along the middle profile and around the perimeter.

Another very important point is the height of the installed sheet, it should be 10-12 millimeters shorter than the height from floor to ceiling. Such a gap must be left in case of shrinkage, so that the partition or wall has the opportunity to compensate for the change in height without cracks (this is especially true for panel and wooden houses). Perhaps these are all the main points of work with drywall.

Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall partition: photo, video

Installing the partition is a little more difficult, so we will describe the process step by step.

Markup.

First you need to mark the place for the partition. The easiest way to do this is with a laser level (laser plane builder). This line is applied to the ceiling, floor and walls. If there is no laser level, you will have to use a plumb bob and a building level (high quality). Then, using a level, transfer it to the wall. If both lines are vertical on the walls, the connecting line should be located strictly above the line on the floor, this is checked using a plumb line. It is necessary to achieve as perfect a match as possible, since the quality of the work depends on it.

Assembling the frame.

Guide profiles are mounted along the marked line on the ceiling and floor. They are marked PN or UW - bearing profile. Most often they are fastened with dowels - 6 * 60 or 6 * 40 millimeters, the distance between the dowels is no more than 40 centimeters.

The PN profile has standard height walls (depth) - 40 mm, but it can be of different widths 100 mm, 75 mm or 50 mm. The width of the bearing profile will determine how thick the sound-insulating material or insulation can be laid there, as well as the thickness of the partition.

Racks are installed in the guide profiles. They are labeled PS or CW - rack-mount profile. It differs from the guide by the presence of additional shelves on the walls. These shelves increase the bearing capacity and make it more rigid. The width of the rack profile depends on the width of the carrier, they must be identical. It is between them that the insulation is installed.

The racks are attached to the rails in several ways. The first is used mainly by professional builders. They work with a cutter - a tool that bends and breaks metal to the sides, holds two parts together. Amateurs during independent repair work with gypsum boards are attached to "fleas" ("seeds", "bugs") - these are small self-tapping screws with a screw at the bottom (TEX 9.5). They drill the metal themselves, speeding up the assembly process (no holes need to be drilled). On each side, the racks are attached with two self-tapping screws.

An important point, if you put a partition on the ground floor or in a high-rise building, then instead of a ceiling guide and a rack joint, apply a special film or some other material that will prevent the appearance of a squeak. During walking, an oscillation occurs, which is transmitted to the profiles, as a result, the profile rubbing, and a creak occurs. In the second option, you need to make the racks one centimeter shorter. It is more correct, since the shrinkage of the house is provided for, and there are no annoying sounds.

The next step is to install the grid (no more than 60 centimeters). The distance is due to the width of the gypsum board, which is usually 120 centimeters. As mentioned earlier, it turns out that the sheet is attached to three posts, so there should be 60 centimeters between the verticals. If, nevertheless, the gap is more than 60 cm, but less than the width of the sheet, a vertical profile is also placed between them, or in this area the sheet will bend and wobble. Another important point is that the first post must be attached to the entire area of the extreme profile, so the distance should be slightly less than 57.5 centimeters.

It is desirable to strengthen the profile to which you will attach windows and doors. The easiest way to do this is with a piece of wood of the appropriate size. It is fastened with self-tapping screws inside the profile. To prevent the timber from twisting, you only need to use dry wood. After the racks are exposed and secured, the structures are stiffened with jumpers.

Jumpers are pieces of rack-mount profiles that are installed horizontally. As a rule, the jumpers are located at the height of the joining of two sheets, they must be fixed. Otherwise, in increments of 60 to 80 centimeters. If the wall is small, put 80 cm each, if it is small, 60 cm is enough.It is worth noting that the crossbars above the doors are a prerequisite when sheathing gypsum board. It is also advisable to strengthen them with a wooden bar.

Laying communications, drywall walls with your own hands: photo, video.

After installing all the crossbars, you can begin to lay electrical wiring and communications. It is advisable to install all electrical wires in a corrugated hose. If the partition is mounted on a wooden frame or in a wooden house, it must be made of metal. In houses / apartments made of non-combustible materials, in plasterboard walls on a galvanized frame, it is allowed to use polypropylene corrugated hoses made of non-combustible material (marked "NG").

Sheathing with heat / sound insulation and plasterboard.

After laying the communications, they begin to mount the plasterboard sheets. They are installed in exactly the same way as for cladding. First, on the one hand, then on the other, a sound insulator or insulation is installed between the bars (profiles) of the frame. Next, the wall is sewn up with gypsum board on the other side. For partitions and walls, ordinary insulation is used.

Expanded polystyrene. One of the varieties of foam. Differs in closed cells, due to which it possesses the best characteristics: fungi do not develop, rodents do not like, dampens sound well and has excellent thermal insulation properties, more dense. It can be installed in a spacer and can be easily cut with a hacksaw. Does not support combustion. The downside is the high price.

Styrofoam. To receive excellent characteristics for heat and sound insulation of a board layer of 6-7 centimeters (density from 35 kg / m3). Poorly conducts sound, retains heat well, is easy to install and has a low cost. The disadvantages are that when it burns, it emits hazardous substances and rodents love it.

Mineral wool. it stone wool(best basalt), slag or glass wool. Basalt stones are considered the most environmentally friendly, since they do not contain formaldehyde. It is quite simple to work with them, they are good at keeping their eyes open, they are easy to cut, they are less afraid of moisture, during installation, respiratory tract and skin protection means are not needed. Their minus is high price... The most affordable option of these heaters it is slag wool, glass wool has an average price, and, of course, stone is the most expensive.

In principle, you can use any other insulation, but the ones listed above are considered the most effective.

How to cut drywall?

When sheathed walls with plasterboard sheets, you will have to cut the sheets, since it is not always possible to install them entirely. To do this, you will need a clerical knife, a long, even object (usually a level, a bar, a board, a ruler, and the like) and a wooden block. A jigsaw may be needed when cutting curved lines, but there will be a lot of dust. Sequencing:

On the front side, draw a line with a pencil along which it is necessary to cut the sheet.

Bend over the broken piece and cut the remaining cardboard.

Everything is really simple, the main thing is to mark it correctly, there will be no further problems.

Do-it-yourself drywall walls: photos, video tutorials

Unfortunately, not all the features of this process can be described, some are better to see with your own eyes. Therefore, we have selected videos that relate to the assembly of the features of working with drywall. Most often, the videos presented relate to the assembly of the frame from profiles. Since this is really one of the most time-consuming jobs, and how even the partition and the wall will be depends on how correctly the frame is formed.

How to strengthen the uprights in the partition?

it non-standard way frame assemblies, but the struts are really stiff. This method must be used if a full-fledged partition between rooms is erected from the gypsum board, in which case the reinforcement will definitely not be superfluous. The downside is that it will take much more time, and the price of such a frame is higher.

Which profile is better: grooved or smooth?

The market has different models profiles, including those with rough sides and walls. With the same metal thickness, it is tougher. How good he is in practice, see the video.