October 22, 2016
Specialization: master in the construction of plasterboard structures, finishing work and laying flooring. Installation of door and window blocks, facade finishing, installation of electrics, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.

Today I will tell you how to glue drywall. This mounting option is very different from traditional technology with a frame, but if you understand the process and follow all the recommendations, you can get smooth walls without drilling and exhibiting the structure. For many, it is the frame that is the most difficult element to work on, but if you use the glue method, you can do the job much faster and easier.

Work options

Cladding the walls with drywall on glue is good because you will not oppress your neighbors with the roar of a perforator, and you will not have to check the plane of the frame for a long time. For inexperienced developers, this is the easiest option, the wall is completely closed from floor to ceiling and work is progressing quickly.

Preparatory stage

To begin with, let's deal with what is needed, especially since the list of basic materials and tools is the same for all work options, only their number changes. As for materials, we need the following:

materials	Description
Drywall	We will use a wall version with a thickness of 12 mm; ceiling sheets should not be used due to their low strength. Naturally, for rooms with high humidity you will need moisture resistant material, it has a green color. As for the height of the sheets, the most common options are 2.5 and 3 meters, you need to choose according to the height of the ceilings so that the surface is covered with one sheet
Adhesive composition	There can be many options, I myself have used at least a dozen, but I will recommend you the one that is on sale almost everywhere and is distinguished by quality and reliability. This is Knauf Perflix, it is most often sold in 30 kg bags, its price is about 300 rubles per pack. Naturally, the consumption entirely depends on the condition of the walls.
Primer	With the help of this composition, the foundation is strengthened, because for best quality installation, we need to achieve maximum adhesive adhesion. Two types of primers are used, and below I will tell you where and what kind is best to apply and how to do it correctly.

Sometimes you need to level the base with cement mortar or seal the gaps in it with mounting foam. We will not consider these work options, as we mean that you have a more or less finished surface that can be finished.

You can not do without a certain set of tools, its list is not as extensive as in the case of the frame device:

• Since the adhesive composition sets within 30 minutes, it must be prepared often and in small portions. That is why it is better to have a drill with a mixer attachment on hand, otherwise you will get tired very quickly not from the main work, but from mixing the glue, and it takes quite a lot of time;

• The composition is best mixed in a convenient container with low sides, its volume should be at least 10 liters;
• It is very important to have a long level or a rule with a level on hand, because we will constantly check the plane of large sheets and we simply cannot do without it. This is the simplest tool, if you wish, you can also use laser devices that the pros love so much;
• The adhesive can be applied with a notched or conventional spatula, trowel, small spatula. You need to choose what is most convenient for you in a given situation.

Technology No. 1 - for smooth walls

If your walls are almost perfectly even, which happens on concrete or plastered surfaces, then gluing drywall to them will be done according to the following scheme:

• Since we will fasten the sheets close to the wall surface, it is necessary to lay all the wires in advance. So that they do not interfere, strobes of the right size are made on the surface, into which the cable is fixed, after laying the wire, you can cover it with cement mortar. In the required places, wires are brought out and holes are made for sockets and switches; special crowns of the required diameter are used for work;
• The surface is cleaned of dust, after which a primer must be applied to it, if you have a regular plastered or concrete wall, then it is best to use a reinforcing composition. Sometimes there are situations when the surface is painted with oil or another and the adhesive composition will not stick to it. In this case, a special adhesive composition with a quartz filler is used; after such processing, the adhesive will hold perfectly;

• Before gluing the element to the surface, it must be prepared. If necessary, a part of the sheet is cut off at the desired height, and holes for sockets and switches are cut out. The work is done using simple crowns that cost a penny and can even be installed on a screwdriver; drywall material is not solid, so high power is not needed;

• As noted above, the adhesive composition hardens very quickly, so you need to cook it for 1-2 sheets, especially at the beginning, when you have not yet filled your hand and have not entered the rhythm. The composition is applied to the surface with a notched trowel with a tooth size of 8-10 mm, this will ensure good adhesion and economical consumption of the mixture. Excess is removed, they can interfere with the alignment of the element;

• The sheet is placed face down at the place of its installation. In general, you can immediately put it in place and apply glue there, this will even simplify the workflow. Naturally, boards must be placed under the material so that it does not get damaged on the floor and does not get dirty;
• Before gluing the drywall to the wall, you need to carefully lift it and stretch the wires into the holes, if you forget about this, you will either have to tear off the sheet or cut it;
• The drywall sticker is very simple: first, the sheet is gently pressed against the wall, you do not need to press hard. After that, using the rule, the places where the material should be pressed are determined, this can be done simply by tapping with my hand (I usually correct most of the flaws this way) or by applying the board and hitting it with a mallet or something else. You don’t need to be very zealous, it’s better to knock it out again later than to overdo it right away.

In no case should you hit the level, so you will quickly disable the tool than level the walls. This is a very precise tool and using it for alignment is not a good idea.

Technology No. 2 - for moderately uneven walls

If you have level differences on the wall up to a couple of centimeters, then the previous version of the work will not work. Let's figure out how to attach drywall to the wall with glue in a different way, it has a lot in common with the option described above, but there are a number of differences. Do-it-yourself instructions for doing the work yourself consist of the following actions:

• Preparation of the base, its primer and cable laying is carried out in the same way as in the case described above. The same applies to the preparation of sheets, so we will omit these points and immediately proceed to consider the workflow;
• Before starting work, you need to prepare adhesive mixture, in this case, its consumption will be much higher, since the application will be carried out not with a notched trowel, but with dots or heaps on the surface. With their help, you can compensate for irregularities and at the same time firmly fix the material;
• The sheet is placed on the lining at the place of its gluing (work usually begins with the most protruding section of the wall), after which glue is applied to it. Points are made around the entire perimeter and are located in increments of 25 cm, in the middle of the sheet - they are placed every 40 centimeters, there should not be large voids, as this will negatively affect the reliability of fastening;

• Gluing drywall begins with pulling the wires, if any, and lightly pressing the element to the surface, it should just catch on the wall. It is best to work together, so that one person constantly holds the sheet and helps to press if necessary, this is both easier and faster;
• Before sticking drywall thoroughly, you need to carefully check the plane in all directions, and then determine in which places you need to press the material. After the initial alignment, another check is made, if necessary, individual sections are knocked out and so on until the result completely satisfies you. If you do not complete the work, then the next sheets will be even more difficult, remember this.

Here you need to consider another option, when drywall is glued to walls made of aerated concrete or foam concrete. In this case, we glue the GKL on the contrary, applying the composition not to the sheet, but to the wall, this provides a more reliable fixation of the material. From myself, I note that this option is less convenient and requires more accuracy when installing the sheet, it can be very easily skewed.

Technology number 3 - for walls with large irregularities

One of the common questions is whether drywall can be glued on surfaces with large differences without continuous plastering. Everything is quite feasible, but the technology will differ markedly from the options described above, the process looks like this:

• First of all, you need to remove from the surface all pieces of plaster that do not hold well. That is, there should be no elements on the surface that can fall off later;
• Priming also refers to the mandatory steps, the composition allows you to strengthen loose areas and reduce the absorbency of the surface, thereby improving the adhesion of the adhesive. It is necessary to apply the primer so that it gets everywhere, therefore on uneven grounds it is better to use a brush-brush, and not a roller, it distributes the solution better;

• Next, you need to prepare beacons, 100 mm wide strips are cut from drywall, and we will use them to create an even base. The number of elements depends on the area to be lined, the elements are located along the perimeter of the wall, as well as vertically every 40-60 cm, based on this, calculations are made;

• Next, you need to set the beacons, for this, the surface around the perimeter is first marked, so that you can see which line to set the elements on. They are also fixed with glue, the layer of which is regulated depending on the differences in the level of the walls. I recommend first sticking the elements around the perimeter and waiting for them to dry, especially since it only takes half an hour;
• Then you need to glue the vertical racks, they are leveled, it is important to control the position of both each element individually and the surface in general. Check entire sections of the wall and adjust the position of the guides while the adhesive has not yet had time to harden;

• When the glue on the structure hardens, you can start gluing the base material. To do this, the adhesive composition is applied in lines along the width of the guides, after which the element is gently lifted and pressed against the surface. If you have leveled the base well, then at this stage it will not be difficult to set the drywall evenly, as a result you will get a structure, as in the picture below;

• Work is carried out until all surfaces are lined. Further finishing is no different from the usual version, the main thing is that the adhesive composition dries.

Sometimes, to save drywall, beacons are made not in stripes, but in the form of points, in this case it is easiest to set the topmost elements first and hang a plumb line from them to control the vertical. How to glue the sheets in such a situation? It's simple: the composition is not applied to the sheet, but to the resulting areas, so you do not have to puzzle over how to place the glue where you need it.

Conclusion

We figured out how to glue drywall to the most different grounds, you need to choose the option that best suits your conditions. If everything is done correctly, then the reliability of the walls will be no worse than in structures with a profile frame. The video in this article will help you understand some of the nuances even better, but if you suddenly have questions, then write them in the comments below the review.

October 22, 2016

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To perform surface cladding along the frame, you can use any type of drywall sheets. This method of wall cladding can be used with very significant irregularities. base surface or in the case when it is necessary to hide the communications between the slab and the wall.

Classification of frame cladding of plasterboard surfaces

Depending on the type of frame used, the following types of wall cladding are distinguished:

1. Sheathing of surfaces with sheets of GK on a frame of wooden bars. Metal hat profiles can also be used in this type of cladding.
2. GKL fastening on wall metal profiles.
3. Installation of plasterboard on a frame of ceiling profiles.

In addition, surface cladding on a wooden frame can be made without the use of hat profiles. In this case, wooden bars are attached to the walls vertically or horizontally, depending on the method of attaching the sheets. With this mounting method important point is the degree of drying of wooden slats. The better they are dried, the less shrinkage they will give later, which will help maintain the integrity of the surface of the drywall sheet. To insure against significant shrinkage, it is worth using a sheathing made of hat profiles.

When using sheathing on steel profiles, the scheme for attaching sheets can be both longitudinal and transverse. By the way, with any method of frame sheathing of surfaces, the possibility of creating heat and sound insulation of the room by laying insulation plates in the gaps of the frame can be used.

Carrying out frame sheathing of surfaces with irregularities within 10 cm

With such flaws in the base surface, sheathing is used on a frame made of wood or metal. The frame elements are fixed to the wall with self-tapping screws with dowels. When cladding on a wooden frame, bars of a suitable section are used. When sheathing on metal profiles, steel profiles of the desired size are used.

As a rule, the fastening of the profile frame to the surface is carried out in the form of two guides, which are mounted along the top and bottom of the wall. Between them, transverse guides are installed in increments of 60 cm.

All profile connections are made according to the hinge principle. They are fastened either with screws or with a “cut-out with a bend”. Moreover, you need to try so that the joints of the GK plates fall on the rack profiles.

Carrying out frame sheathing of surfaces with irregularities greater than 10 cm

With such significant irregularities, even the frame itself must be done with a slight indent from the base surface. That is why these structures use systems of CD and UD profiles, which are mounted on the walls in the same way as on the ceiling. So, ceiling profiles are mounted on the wall through a suspension system using sealing tape. Suspension pitch - 1.5 meters. Moreover, the extreme suspensions should be located at a distance of 15 cm from the floor or ceiling. The optimal number of hangers per profile is three.

And for fastening the guide profiles, dowels with sealing tape or sealant are used. The pitch of the dowels is not more than one meter. The optimal number of fasteners per profile is three.

Work sequence

The room where work on the frame wall cladding will be carried out should be with normal temperature and humidity indicators. Work is carried out at the finishing stage until the final floor is completed. The temperature in such a room should not fall below 10 degrees.

Work is carried out in the following order:

Sealing joints between drywall sheets

Most often, a special reinforcing tape is used to seal the joints of the GKL. This is done to protect the seam and strengthen it. If you use only putty, albeit the highest quality, then the formation of cracks over time is inevitable. Therefore, the use of reinforcing tape is mandatory in any case.

On the modern construction market there are various types of tapes for joints:

• in the form of a grid;
• lavsan;
• paper;
• polypropylene;
• self-adhesive;
• fiberglass based.

Let's look at the features of each of the tapes in more detail.

As for polypropylene and lavsan tapes, they are quite viscous. In this regard, when the tape is stretched under the influence of a load, it does not hold rigidity and cracking of the putty layer occurs. Such tapes do not reinforce the joints well enough and can lead to problems in the future.

Fiberglass tape, although not ductile, still does not seal the joints of sheets well enough, therefore, in most cases it is not recommended for use.

When using self-adhesive mesh, tests were carried out, which showed that although the mesh has sufficient strength, it does not strengthen the putty layer, which leads to cracking of the mortar layer. Such poor efficiency is associated with the longitudinal arrangement of the main threads of the mesh, as well as the laying of the mesh in the bottom layer of the putty mortar.

As experience shows, paper tape has the greatest strength. This is due to its tensile and tear strength. That is why it is most effective in this case. The strength of the paper tape increases with the increase in the strength of the paper used and the decrease in its thickness. It is better to choose a paper tape with a rough surface, which will improve its adhesion to the solution. Having small holes all over the surface will improve paper stacking by allowing air to escape from under the ribbon.

Plasterboard wall cladding - simple and budget way surface leveling. In many cases, its choice is more rational than the use of plaster, for example, when preparing a wooden wall for subsequent finishing. Plasterboard lining can be carried out in short time, additional effects of its use are the improvement of sound and heat insulation in the room.

Drywall for walls can be different, the right one is chosen, focusing on the conditions of the room in which they plan to carry out repair work:

• normal - suitable for rooms with a normal level of humidity;
• moisture resistant - used for bathrooms and rooms with high humidity;
• fire-resistant - they sheathe sections of the wall around stoves, fireplaces, chimneys;
• fire and moisture resistant - designed for finishing attics, attics, furnaces in private houses.

The minimum thickness of drywall for wall sheathing is 12.5 mm. Thinner materials are used for other purposes: finishing the ceiling or creating three-dimensional structures.

Mounting methods

There are 2 methods of fastening GKL: frame and frameless.

The latter is used if the walls in the room do not have significant curvature. Frameless installation will be cheaper, since the sheathing material is attached directly to the surface that needs leveling, fixing it with glue, the construction of an additional crate is not required. Fixing drywall to the wall in this way is possible only if the ceiling height does not exceed 3 m.

The frame method is suitable when you need to lay insulation or communications under the skin. In this case, a crate is first placed on the wall, and only then the GKL is fixed.

Frameless method

To finish the walls with drywall with your own hands you will need:

• construction level;
• a set of spatulas;
• rule;
• electric jigsaw or sharp construction knife for sawing sheathing material;
• construction grater;
• square, pencil;
• rubber mallet;
• electric drill with a special nozzle for mixing the solution;
• screwdriver;
• gypsum putty;
• brush and roller for applying a primer;
• primer with antifungal additives;
• serpyanka (tape for sealing GKL joints);
• self-tapping screws.

Before sheathing the wall with drywall sheets, it is necessary to prepare the surface.

Training

The old wall covering must be removed. If the surface is painted with oil paint, and it is not possible to completely remove it, serifs are placed on the wall with an ax or a perforator. This is necessary to improve adhesion.

All irregularities, recesses and cracks are filled with putty or mounting foam. After the solution hardens, they clean off the excess so that nothing protrudes above the surface.

Before attaching drywall to the wall, you need to prime and mark it. First, the surface is cleaned of dust with a broom or brush. Then one or more layers of a deep penetration primer are applied, using a roller for flat areas, and a paint brush for corners and other hard-to-reach places. There must be at least 2 hours between coats. Start marking only after the wall is completely dry.

markup

Wall cladding with drywall is carried out only after marking the surfaces, otherwise distortions are possible. It needs a level to work. The easiest way to work with a laser, but a bubble one is also suitable.

The marking should be carried out taking into account the possible deformation of the sheets: a gap of about 1 cm should be left between the end of the GKL and the floor, and 5 mm between the GKL and the ceiling. A control line is drawn at the ceiling, it is usually not required from below, since it is easier to form the desired indent by placing 10 mm thick plywood under the drywall slab during installation.

Using a plumb line, check the evenness of the corners of the room and draw a vertical line at the junction of the walls. To fix drywall on the walls start from this mark.

Adhesive selection

The composition is selected, taking into account the evenness of the surfaces.

Mounting with gypsum or cement based adhesive

This is the most popular way to install drywall on walls.

Work order:

1. The dry mixture is diluted with water in the proportions specified by the manufacturer.
2. GKL is turned over to the wrong side. Apply the solution in long broken lines along the edges of the plate along the entire perimeter. On the sheet itself, the glue is applied with dots with a diameter of 12-15 cm, maintaining a distance of about 20-30 cm between them. For reliable fixation of drywall on the wall, it is necessary that at least 10% of the entire area of ​​​​the plate is covered with adhesive.
3. Work starts from the corner. 1 cm thick plywood is placed on the floor to leave a gap. Bring the drywall up to the wall vertical line markings, apply, align with the line.
4. Run the rule over the plate to evenly distribute the composition. Using building level, make sure that there are no deviations to the side. If they are, correct the shortcomings.
5. After the final drying of the adhesive composition, the drywall is additionally fixed with the help of “fungus” dowels.
6. By a similar method, further wall cladding is carried out with whole sheets of gypsum plasterboard, and only after that they begin to clad the remaining narrow sections of the wall. To do this, measure open areas walls and cut out parts of the desired size from the plates.

GCR is cut with a jigsaw or a knife. The edges must be made at an angle so that later the joints can be filled with putty.

Installation on polymer compounds

Cladding GKL walls with synthetic glue can be done in two ways - apply the composition to the slab in the same way as when using dry mixes, or first fix the sheets on the surface with dowels, after leveling them, and then fill the voids between the drywall and the base with foam.

The curing time of the adhesive depends on the composition.

Foam fixing

To sheathe the walls with drywall in this way, foam is applied to the edges around the perimeter of the slab, several lines are drawn along the main part. Immediately after applying the composition, the sheet is applied to the wall and its position is leveled.

The final hardening time is about a day. After that, the drywall will be firmly glued to the wall, and it will no longer be possible to tear off or correct its position.

For uneven surfaces, a different method is used - first the GKL is fixed, and then the voids are foamed.

Step-by-step instructions for finishing walls with drywall in this way:

1. The plate is fixed on the wall along the marking line. Holes are drilled in the wall for dowels (GKL is not removed at the same time). In total, for one sheet for reliable fixation, about 10-12 self-tapping screws will be required, which will need to be evenly spaced over the entire area.
2. After drilling holes, the sheet is set aside, then plastic dowels are inserted into the wall.
3. On the wrong side of the GKL using double sided tape glue the foam. Pieces of material should be placed at a distance of 15 cm from the holes made. To determine which side you need to fix the drywall to the wall, and which one to fix the foam rubber, you should inspect the plate. There are no markings and markings on the front, and there is a slight bevel at the side edge.
4. Attach the sheet to the wall, fix it on the screws. The position of the sheet can be leveled by screwing the fasteners to different depths - in the place where the wall deviates, the self-tapping screw is not screwed in all the way.
5. Carry out in this way the installation of drywall on the walls.
6. Holes are made in the GKL, placing them in the areas between the screws. Through these holes, into the space between the sheet and the wall, mounting foam.
7. After the foam has hardened (at least in a day), the screws can be sunk a couple of mm in the sheets or completely unscrew the fasteners, and then putty these areas.

This technology of wall cladding with drywall implies a high consumption of foam, however, it allows you to cope with significant curvature without mounting the frame.

Frame method

For work you will need:

• metal profile;
• building level;
• drill or perforator;
• suspensions;
• spatulas;
• construction knife or jigsaw;
• tape measure, pencil;
• metal scissors.

Plasterboard wall cladding begins with surface preparation. It is believed that with the frame method of finishing, removal of the old finish and priming is not required, but it is recommended to do it - this will increase the service life of the erected structure.

The frame can also be made from wooden slats, but this method is used less and less. Wood is prone to rotting and deformation, so finishing the walls with drywall using a wooden crate is impractical.

markup

Work order:

1. A plumb line is fixed on the wall in the corner under the ceiling.
2. Screw the screw in the place where the plumb line touches the floor. Mark all 4 walls like this.
3. Pull the thread around the entire perimeter, fixing it on screwed screws. The resulting line is transferred to the floor and ceiling.

The minimum distance from the wall for installing the frame is 4 cm. It makes no sense to make it too large - the greater the distance from the base to the drywall partition, the smaller the usable area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room.

Frame installation

The guide profile is attached to the floor and ceiling along the marking lines using dowels. Before this, it is recommended to stick a sealing tape on the back of the profile in order to reduce the vibrations that will be transmitted by the ceilings to the frame.

Cutting the profile is carried out using scissors for metal.

The next step is marking the lines for installing the rack profile. Racks should be placed at a distance of 60 cm, so that when facing walls with drywall on a metal frame, the joints of the plates fall directly on the center of the profile. In case on drywall partition subsequently a high load is planned (for example, shelves, wall cabinets, a TV will be installed), then the distance is reduced to 40 cm.

By measuring the distance from the top to the bottom rails and subtracting 1 cm, the required height of the racks is obtained. From the profile, parts of the desired length are cut. First they lead into the lower guide, then into the upper one, positioning in accordance with the markup. Attach the racks to the wall with hangers.

Before sewing up the wall with drywall, insulation is laid, if necessary.

GKL installation

Proceed to the installation of sheets on the frame. They start facing with whole plates, placing them in a checkerboard pattern: the whole canvas is fixed first, aligning it along the lower guide. The next sheet is mounted on the ceiling rail. This technique makes the structure stronger.

Self-tapping screws are used to fasten drywall to the wall on the profile. They are screwed in by setting the minimum number of revolutions on the screwdriver, otherwise the sheet may be damaged.

The total number of fasteners per 1 sheet is at least 45. On the short side of the GCR, 5 self-tapping screws are screwed in, the rest are distributed along the long sides and the center of the plate. The fastener head must be recessed into the sheet by 1 mm. Do not overtighten the screws.

When they finish lining the walls with drywall with their own hands, they move on to finishing the erected structure.

Finishing

At the final stage, the joints of the plates are grouted. The method is selected according to the decorative trim will be used in the future.

When using elastic materials ( plastic tiles, non-woven or photo wallpapers with a PVC backing) chamfer on both edges at an angle of 22.5 °, then the angle of the resulting groove will be 45 °. After that, the groove is filled with a gypsum-based starting putty.

For finishing drywall walls with other materials, the seams are processed differently. Cut the edge at an angle of 45 ° so that the angle formed between the plates is 90 °. Glue putty is used to fill the groove. It is applied abundantly, then rubbed, a sickle is immediately applied on top, pressing it into the solution. After hardening, the composition is rubbed, forming a flat plane.

Having learned how to independently sheathe the walls with drywall, you can start repair work. If you adhere to the technology of work in the process, the finished structure will turn out to be stable and durable.

Finishing the walls with drywall in a wooden house

Everyone chooses for himself ... the house in which he will live. Someone builds a house from concrete blocks, despite the horror stories told about concrete structures, someone prefers a brick house, and someone prefers building from eco-friendly wood, without fear of fires.

Fire hazard is perhaps the most serious and cruel disadvantage of wooden houses, with all its advantages. And although Construction Materials treated with flame retardants, they partially solve the problem.

Another disadvantage is the instability of the walls associated with fluctuations in the humidity in the wood. Particularly unstable new house. It will take several years before the new building settles down, all the logs (beams) will fall into place.

Advantages of plasterboard walls

GKL - fertile material for building decoration. It is possible to sheathe interior partitions with drywall not only in a wooden house, to equip exclusive dropped ceilings in several tiers, create niches or shelves.

The manufacturer offers several brands of GKL:

• GKL - standard;
• VGKL - waterproof;
• OGKL - fire resistant;
• OVGKL - waterproof and fire resistant at the same time. This drywall is more expensive than the standard, but will last much longer. He is not afraid of high humidity, and will not ignite from the slightest spark.

For finishing inside the house, it is advisable to use the last two grades of GKL. For installation in toilet and bathroom (shower) rooms better fit waterproof drywall sheet.

It is necessary to say a few words about the advantages of cladding wooden walls with drywall:

• With this finish, perfectly smooth surfaces are obtained that can be puttied, painted, pasted over with any kind of wallpaper, and even ceramic tiles are glued on them.
• Provide some thermal and sound insulation.
• Relatively low price of material and workflow.

GKL plates are easy to work with. They are freely cut with a jigsaw, which allows you to cut out any shape (for ceilings), any size of slabs for wall cladding. With GKL you can work independently, without the involvement of specialists.

Finishing rules

Inside the house, wooden walls can be protected with refractory plasterboard sheathing. Finishing the walls with drywall in a wooden house will even out the unevenness of the log or block masonry, give it perfect look. Heat and hydro insulating material s, electrical wiring is located.

But before we start cladding a log or cobbled wall, it is necessary to take into account a few nuances.

Nuance first

Wood, unlike brick or concrete, is alive, organic material. The tree breathes. In conditions of high humidity, it is able to absorb moisture, and in conditions of low humidity, it releases water into the atmosphere.

Poor people buy raw wood in the hope of drying it themselves. It's cheaper than dry. Building a house from raw wood creates some problems, because in the process of drying the tree decreases in size, sometimes warps. As a result, cracks form in the wooden wall.

Previously purchased material should not be placed on damp ground. It is necessary to put unnecessary boards, bars, pallets under it. Provide a canopy. Bars 4-5 cm high should be laid between logs (beams) so that air circulates between them. Thus, you will ensure ventilation and natural drying.

Ideally, if the construction of the house begins in late spring - early summer. Warm air and sunlight will speed up the drying of the tree. Do not rush to caulk and sheathe the walls with drywall. At least a month, another building should be open to dry a little. After this time after the erection of the walls, all the cracks should be caulked, that is, soft plastic material should be hammered into the cracks between the logs. It could be:

• Dry moss - in Russia, walls have long been caulked with dry moss;
• Tow - fibrous material used by plumbers for waterproofing;
• Jute - material from a jute tree;
• The sealant is a synthetic foam material.

All these materials do not pass and do not accumulate moisture, they fill the gaps well.

Nuance second

Wood is a combustible material. A dry wood- especially. And in order to hinder its flammability, it is necessary to process the masonry from the inside and outside with fire retardants - anti-flammable agents. But this is not enough.

To protect the house from fire, it is important to properly install the electrical wiring. After all, it may have a short circuit. Finally, overheating of contacts at high load on the mains can also cause a fire. Electrical wiring is laid in plastic (metal) boxes from the outside. In this case, the boxes must be of high quality, flame-retardant. It is possible to lay wires between the wall and plasterboard sheathing. The best option for protecting wires in this case is to lay them in metal sleeves. We mount the electrical wiring at the same time as installing the frame under the drywall.

Protection against fungi and other microorganisms is necessary. After flame retardants, the walls are treated with antiseptics.

Nuance third

This point is directly related to the plasterboard wall cladding in a wooden house. The fact is that fresh wood, especially poorly dried for some time, will shrink. It's connected:

• with the loss of moisture by the tree;
• With the landing of logs or timber in place, their compaction among themselves under the action of the weight of the overlying logs, roofing superstructure.

Landing at home can be 10–15 cm per floor.

The fact that a tree breathes, either absorbing moisture or losing it, was mentioned above. This factor also affects the unstable behavior of the walls. Some types of trees are prone to warping, especially with high humidity or sudden temperature changes. And if on such a wall to attach tightly drywall sheets, they will quickly begin to crack, change their location, deform. To avoid this, the so-called sliding or floating frame was developed. Its essence lies in the fact that it does not move along bearing walls Houses. Plasterboard sheets are attached to this frame.

Arrangement of the frame

The frame is not accidentally called sliding. It is designed in such a way that the shrinkage of the outer walls does not affect or displace the inner lining. You will learn about the intricacies of mounting such a frame below.

Metal carcass

The metal frame consists of the following elements:

The following tools are required for work.

• Roulette,
• Level,
• screwdriver,
• Bulgarian for cutting profiles,
• stepladder,
• Pencil or marker.

First, a horizontal guide profile is attached to the floor. Then the areas for the installation of vertical racks are marked. They are located at a distance of 40 or 60 cm from each other, in such a way that every second (third) rack falls at the junction of drywall sheets. The length of the racks should be less than the distance from floor to ceiling by 10–12 cm. It is advisable to choose a thickness of profiles for racks of at least 0.6 mm.

Next, take each rack, mark the attachment points on it so that they do not fall between the logs (beam) of the wall, and that there are no cracks or cracks at the attachment point. From the markup, cut a groove down with a grinder, the length of which should be 10 cm and a width of about 5 mm (slightly larger than the diameter of the screw).

The cutout is made in such a way that the marking point is approximately in the middle of the cutout. The edges of the groove must be smooth and even. Therefore, they must be cleaned with sandpaper. Marking points, and accordingly, grooves, should be at least 3-4 on each rack. All racks and their installation locations must be numbered.

Where the racks are not tightly adjacent to the wall, it is necessary to fix the stops from plywood or pieces of timber at the attachment points so that all the risers are in the same plane. As stops, you can use simple self-tapping screws. Now that the markup is complete, all the racks are marked and numbered, you can proceed with their installation.

The racks are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws with washers, which are screwed in at the top of the groove, with an indent of 1 cm.

Next stage. The same U-shaped profiles are attached to these racks, but turned towards the first ones. Fastening is carried out with self-tapping seeds on the side. Stiffeners are laid across the wall. Thus, the metal frame for plasterboard wall cladding is ready.

There is another way to install the frame under drywall. It is suitable for log walls, walls with large irregularities.

wooden frame

A wooden frame is easier to install, but it is not as stable as a metal one. It can only be arranged in a standing house. All beams for a wooden frame must be dry and treated, like walls, with flame retardant and antiseptic.

Wooden bars are attached in the same way as metal ones. Through lugs are cut in the bars. The hole for the self-tapping screws must be countersunk so that the screw head is recessed and does not protrude above the timber.

Plasterboard wall cladding

Starting the installation of drywall sheets, it is necessary to take into account some features of the sheathing. Before plasterboarding the walls, it is recommended to first make the ceiling. To finish the ceiling, soft suspensions and traction should be used.

Wall and ceiling slabs should not be tightly joined. It is recommended to leave a gap of several centimeters between them. This gap is closed with a cornice. At the bottom of the drywall, too, should not fit snugly to the floor. It is located one or two centimeters higher. The plinth will cover this gap. Plinth and cornice are attached to horizontal surfaces.

When installing drywall, it is also recommended to leave a gap of 1–2 mm. This gap is glued with sickle tape and hidden under the putty. When the walls move, this clearance will not allow cracks to appear. Sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws at a distance of 30-35 centimeters from each other. The heads of the screws are slightly sunk deep into the sheet. Then they are sealed with puttying.

Application frame structure allows you to perform steam and heat insulation of walls using a special vapor barrier film and mineral wool.

Conclusion

It is desirable to withstand the erected house without finishing during the year. During this year, you will have time to put the roof in order, install gas and water supply, install heating, without which it makes no sense to start wall cladding. Since the heat inside the house will significantly affect the drying process of the wood and the behavior of the walls. But even if the house has settled, it is recommended to finish the walls on a floating frame, since a slight, imperceptible deformation of the walls will still occur for several more years.

Before starting the finishing, it is recommended to prime the walls sheathed with plasterboard. Then putty and other materials will hold better.

Perhaps readers have their own subtleties and tricks of arranging a frame for GKL, someone will decide that the methods described are not efficient and stable enough. We invite readers to comment on this topic and ask questions.

Interior decoration. Modern materials and technologies Nazarova Valentina Ivanovna

The technology of wall cladding with drywall sheets

The technology of wall cladding with plasterboard sheets provides for two methods - frameless and frame. With the frameless method, the sheets are glued to the walls using special adhesives, while allowable height lined premises is equal to the height of the sheet, but not more than 3.0 meters. With the frame method, the sheets are mounted on a previously installed frame, while the height of the premises is not limited by the height of the sheet, but should not exceed 10 meters.

In both cases, the installation of facings should be carried out during the period of finishing work before the installation of clean floors, when all the "wet" processes are completed. Works should be carried out in dry and normal humidity conditions at an air temperature in the room not lower than +15 C.

Only if these requirements are met and the technology is followed, cracks on the finished surface can be avoided.

Frameless wall cladding

With a frameless installation method, drywall sheets are glued directly to the wall. Depending on the evenness of the wall, there are three options for gluing sheets (Fig. 12).

Rice. 12. Frameless surface cladding

Option A. A flat wall surface involves gluing sheets to the wall surface, which is quite rare in practice. These walls are usually made of reinforced concrete panels, and partitions from tongue-and-groove blocks. A solution is used as an adhesive gypsum putty Fugenfüller or Perlfix glue. They are applied to the gypsum board in continuous stripes around the perimeter and one or two stripes in the center with a thin layer using a notched trowel (Fig. 12a).

When using Fugenfüller putty, the protruding solution from the gaps of adjacent sheets is used to seal joints and a leveling layer of putty between the seams.

Option B. The unevenness of the wall is not more than 20 mm. These can be walls made of bricks, small blocks and other materials that require a thicker layer of gypsum adhesive. In this case, Perlfix glue is used, which is applied with a trowel in small blotches (heaps) around the perimeter of the sheet with a step of about 25 ... 30 cm and along the middle of the sheet in 1-2 rows with a step of 35 ... 40 cm (Fig. 12b).

Option B. The unevenness of the wall is more than 20 mm. On such surfaces, a flat plane is preliminarily formed using strips cut from the GKL sheet, about 10 cm wide, oriented along the perimeter and center of the sheet (Fig. 12c). The surface of the wall for the strip is prepared and treated with an appropriate primer, paint roller. The strips are glued to the surface with Perlfix glue, which is applied with a trowel. The glued strips act as beacons and must be well aligned and glued in the same plane of the wall. After the glue has completely dried, a sheet is glued to these strips using Fugenfüller glue. After the adhesive has set, the joints are sealed.

Prior to the commencement of facing works, it is necessary to complete all construction and installation and Finishing work associated with "wet" processes, as well as perform concealed wiring and lay plumbing communications. The conclusions of the electrical cables to the mounting boxes of electrical sockets and switches are laid so that their ends are accessible after the plasterboard lining is completed and, when drilling holes for the mounting boxes, they are not touched by cutters.

To increase adhesion (adhesion) to the walls, the surfaces must first be cleaned of dirt, dust and formwork lubricant residues, and then treated with appropriate primers.

The choice of primer type is carried out depending on the hygroscopicity of the walls. For smooth, poorly absorbent concrete walls, this is Vetokontakt. For hygroscopic, i.e., moisture-absorbing walls, surfaces are treated with Tiefengrund or Grundirmittel primers in order to reduce the absorption of moisture from the adhesive and enhance adhesion.

Before installing the sheets, their position is marked on the outside of the sheet. The marking is done from the wall, taking into account the necessary clearance for the thickness of the adhesive mass and the sheet itself, and marking lines are applied along them using a breaker ink lace. Right angles are checked at adjacent walls and then marks are transferred to the ceiling and the base wall using a plumb line.

Drywall sheets are installed along the marking lines. After the primer dries, an adhesive solution is prepared, which is applied to the sheet. The sheet is lifted, installed on linings of 1 ... 2 plasterboard strips, 10 ... 20 mm high from the floor level and pressed against the wall. By lightly tapping on the rule pressed against the sheet, it is leveled and brought to a strictly vertical position. Verticality control is checked by level.

Between the upper edge of the sheets under the ceiling, a gap of 5 mm should be provided, when arranging joints, it is filled with putty, and a separating tape is glued before installation (Fig. 13).

Rice. 13. GCR fixed to walls with irregularities up to 20 mm

With the help of the thickness of the linings, the sheets are aligned vertically, at the same time their adjoining to the walls and to each other is controlled. The resulting gap at the base ensures the ventilation of drywall sheets when the adhesive compositions dry, and also prevents the sheets from coming into contact with the mortar when installing a self-leveling floor screed.

After the adhesive has completely cured, the joints are sealed. Since the frameless sheathing is carried out to the height of the drywall sheet, in this case only vertical joints occur, which can be puttied using two types of putties. With some types of putties, the joint device provides for the use of reinforcing tape, with others - without reinforcing the joints with tape.

Putty "Fugenfüller" is used for sealing longitudinal joints of plasterboard with a thinned edge and always with the use of reinforcing tape. Such material is a mesh or perforated glass cloth tape or high quality paper tape.

Especially for sealing seams and joints, the Fugenfüller GV putty is used, which has a tensile strength comparable to the strength of the drywall sheets themselves. Joints with semicircular edges are puttied with Uniflot mixture without reinforcing tape. At the same time, Uniflot gypsum universal putty, which has high strength characteristics, ensures reliable sealing of the seam and high quality finishes.

A special high-strength putty"CE 86" manufactured by "SEMIN" or various compositions of other manufacturers.

There are two technologies for using reinforcing tapes: either to embed the tape in a fresh layer of putty, or to stick it on a putty surface. Since high-quality tapes pass moisture well, after the putty dries, a strong monolithic reinforced layer. Before puttying, all joints of the sheets are carefully primed.

After the primer dries, a layer of putty is applied to the joint with a width slightly larger than the width of the tape, then the reinforcing tape is pressed into the applied putty with a spatula (Fig. 14a). The operation is performed immediately after applying the putty, before it hardens. After the first layer of putty has completely dried, a covering layer is applied over the entire width of the joint, i.e., over the entire area of ​​thinning, using spatulas with a width exceeding twice the width of thinning sheets (Fig. 14b).

After complete drying, the seams are sanded with hand grout, using various numbers special sanding mesh for gypsum solutions or emery skins until a single plane with sheets is obtained (Fig. 14c).

Rice. 14. Shaping the seam

The outer corners of drywall sheets should be reinforced with a metal perforated corner. The corner is pressed into the pre-applied putty and then covered with a leveling layer (Fig. 14d).

Internal corners are puttied with a reinforcing tape bent at the required angle.

For the final finishing of surfaces, the putty mixture "Finish-paste" is used. It is an easy-to-sand material, intended for applying thin layers over puttied surfaces, it is also used when preparing surfaces for high-quality painting.

Due to the fact that gypsum fiber sheets do not have thinned edges, the seams between them are sealed without reinforcing tapes using the Fugenfüller GV putty, which is also the glue for these sheets.

When facing GVL walls with a surface roughness of up to 20 mm, Perlfix GV adhesives are used, which is applied along the perimeter of the sheets without a gap to avoid the appearance of voids in the seams. This facilitates further sealing of joints.

Frame method of wall cladding

With significant irregularities and deviations of the walls, as well as in rooms with a height of more than 3 m, frame methods of wall cladding with gypsum plasterboard and gypsum board sheets are increasingly being used.

Until recently, sheets were fixed on a frame made of wooden blocks or on a frame of metal corners. Neither the first nor the second option was reliable: wooden frame subject to rotting and swelling (shrinkage) in adverse conditions, and the frame of metal corners is a complex and extremely heavy structure.

However, plasterboard over timber frame cladding is still widely practiced. (Fig. 15). In this case, it is necessary to attach to the floor and ceiling with dowels or screws. wooden slats with a cross section of at least 50 × 30 mm. At the same time, they are aligned vertically and along one line by placing wooden bars of the required thickness in the right places. Vertical wooden racks with a section of at least 75 × 25 mm are installed in the gap between the floor and ceiling slats with a step equal to the width of the sheet. Additionally, two or three supporting wooden posts with a cross section of at least 50 × 25 mm are installed between these bearing posts. All installed racks are aligned in the same plane with the floor and ceiling rails.

Rice. 15. Wall cladding on a wooden frame

To improve heat and sound insulation, a layer of glass wool can be laid between the slats.

Then the wooden frame is sheathed with plasterboard sheets using self-tapping screws for wood with a length of at least 30 mm in increments of at least 25 cm. The work is carried out in two mutually perpendicular directions or from the middle to the edges. Between the sheets of drywall there should be a gap of 5 ... 7 mm for subsequent finishing of the seams.

Construction with metal profile frame seems more reliable, because the quality of work is controlled in stages: upon completion of the installation of the frame, then the installation of gypsum boards or gypsum boards and joints. The design is easily sheathed with the second and subsequent layers of sheets (if necessary), the laying of electrical wiring is facilitated and it is not laborious to install a large number of mounting boxes for electrical, television and telephone sockets. The resulting gap between the wall and the cladding can be filled mineral wool, which is an additional heat and sound insulation.

Products from metal profiles, necessary for technological wall cladding, ceiling and partitions, are produced by the enterprises of the KNAUF industrial group. Profiles manufactured by other domestic enterprises are supplied to the markets.

Metal profiles are produced by cold rolling from galvanized steel strip 0.56…0.6 mm thick.

Rice. 16. Main profiles and their sections

Main types of products (Fig. 16): guide profile (PN), ceiling guide profile (PNP), rack-mount profile (PS), ceiling profile (PP), corner profile (PU). The dimensions of these products are given in tab. 7.

Table 7 Types and sizes of profile products

The frame is assembled from galvanized profiles: racks and rails with obligatory fastening to the wall with brackets (Fig. 17). As vertical racks, a PP ceiling profile is used, which is mounted in tandem with the corresponding PNP guide profile. Brackets are mainly made of straight hangers and are attached to the rack with self-tapping screws. Between themselves, the rack and guide profiles are fixed with a cutter using the “cut-out with a bend” method.

Rice. 17. Frame base assembly

The shelves of the rack profile along the entire length have three longitudinal grooves, while the middle one indicates the junction of the drywall sheets, and the two side ones center the screwed screws. The backs of the profiles have special holes necessary for laying engineering communications inside a wall or partition. These paired holes are located at the ends of the profiles and have a diameter of 33 mm.

The installation technology is as follows. Based on the floor and ceiling, markings are made. The position of the guides, rack profiles, the place of attachment of anchors for installing rack profiles is noted. In order to minimize the distance from the wall, it is advisable to use a narrow ceiling profile PP 60? 27 as racks.

Before installing the guide profiles, they should be glued with a special sealing tape for noise protection. metal frames. It can be a self-adhesive tape "Dichtungsbant" 60 wide and 3 mm thick or any other finely porous polymer film.

Profiles are attached to the floor and ceiling with dowels, the installation step of the dowels is 60 cm. The ceiling guide profile is produced with ready-made holes in the wall with a diameter of 8 mm and in increments of 25 cm. , in other cases, a step of installing racks of 60 cm is allowed (Fig. 18). To improve the sound insulation between the brackets and a wall or other load-bearing structure put pieces of sealing tape.

Rice. 18. Layout of GKL when facing

After that, the ceiling profiles are inserted into the guides and fixed in the hangers. The protruding ends of the suspensions are bent. The correct installation of the ceiling profile must be checked with a level. The length of the racks from the ceiling profile should be 3 ... 5 mm less than the distance between the upper and lower guide profiles. After installing the frame, gypsum boards are attached to it using self-tapping piercing screws with a length of at least 25 mm. Fastening work must be carried out from the corner of the GKL in two mutually perpendicular directions with a step of no more than 25 cm, while avoiding deformation of the sheet. The screws must be spaced from the edge of the sheet at the distances indicated on rice. nineteen.

Rice. nineteen. Proper fastening GKL to the rack

Sheets are mounted in a vertical position. If the height of the premises exceeds the length of the sheet, then horizontal segments of the guide profile are installed in the places of horizontal end drains. The end joints of the sheets must be shifted vertically by at least 40 cm. The ends of the GKL must be processed with a peeling planer with a cutting blade angle of 30 ° to a depth of 2/3 of the sheet thickness. GKL docking is performed in a run. In order to avoid the appearance of cracks at the junction, it is not allowed to join sheets on the racks of door or window openings, and additional intermediate profiles are installed at the joints of sheets above the openings (Fig. 20).

Rice. 20. Wall cladding over openings

Between the floor and the GKL there should be a gap of 10 ... 15 mm. Between the top edge of the sheets along the bottom surface concrete floor a separating tape is glued and a gap of at least 5 mm is left. The gap is filled with putty, the protruding edges of the tape are cut off before the "finish" finish (Fig. 21).

Rice. 21. Pairing wall cladding with overlap

To protect the outer corner from damage, it is better to use the option with fastening with a protective perforated corner PU 31? 31 (fig. 22), which at final finishing puttied. At the points of contact with door frames the sheets should adjoin flush to them and be closed with a platband during the final finishing.

Rice. 22. Protecting the outer corner with a corner profile

The sealing of the butt joints and the surface of the gypsum plasterboard is carried out according to the previously described technology for the frameless cladding method. Horizontal end seams are made without a reinforcing tape with Uniflot or Fugenfüller GV high-strength putty, it is possible to replace them with similar putties, but with mandatory preparation of the seam. The technology for their implementation is as follows: the edges of the cut sheets are cleaned with a peeling planer, chamfers are removed with an edge planer, all joining edges are sanded with sandpaper. Fixing screws must penetrate the drywall to a depth of at least 1 mm. The seams are treated with a primer, and putty after drying. If necessary, insulating material is placed in the cavity of the frame, after which the frame is sheathed with sheets. In cases where the walls are laid engineering Communication, another set of guide profiles PN 50 (65; 75; 100)? 40 is used and in a pair for each of them the corresponding rack profile PS 50 (65; 75; 100)? 50. This type of cladding resembles a false wall (Fig. 23).

Rice. 23. Fastening rack profiles along communications

Technology preparatory work and installation of facings is the same as the above construction. The only difference is that during installation there is no fastening of the rack profile to the wall with a height of the surface to be lined up to 4.2 m. With a higher height, the fastening of the racks to the wall is mandatory in increments of at least 1.5 m.

GVL is mounted using special screws with a sharper conical head and countersinking strips with a step of no more than 30 cm.

During the operation of the cladding, it becomes necessary to attach various attachments or interior items to them, which often stops customers in making decisions with wall cladding or making partitions from plasterboard sheets.

Rice. 24. Hooks for fastening in plasterboard partitions

In this case, a number of technical measures are envisaged. Depending on the mass of the load (for example, washbasins, kitchen cabinets etc.) during the installation of the frame, jumpers from the rack profile are installed, fixed to the frame, and hinged elements of the interior are attached to the latter. Fastening objects weighing up to 30 kg per 1 running meter walls can be carried out anywhere on the gypsum board using special metal dowels. Light loads, such as cornices or shelves with a load not exceeding 15 kg, are hung directly on drywall sheets using special anchor products, plastic or metal dowels with a diameter of 6 ... 8 mm or hooks (Fig. 24).

From the book Complete renovation apartments. How can a woman handle renovations? author Shtukina Ludmila Vasilievna

Techniques for tiling walls Question. What are the ways of laying tiles? Wall cladding with ceramic tiles starts from the bottom, laying the tiles in horizontal rows. There are several ways to lay tiles: in a run, when in each next

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From the book Do-it-yourself tiling author Antonov Igor Viktorovich

Envelope cladding features Envelope cladding is a specific type of floor cladding that is used in rooms where the floor is deliberately made with a slope to drain water. In the vast majority of cases, we are talking about showers. Particularly should

From the book Home master author Onishchenko Vladimir

Forms of tiles for wall cladding For wall cladding, tiles of straight and curved shapes are produced. There are ordinary tiles, a frieze, or a rectangular belt, and husk, or corner tiles. Ordinary tiles are ordinary flat tiles designed for cladding

From the book Insulation and waterproofing of houses and apartments author Kolosov Evgeny Viktorovich

The order of wall cladding 1. Preparation of the base and tiles. The technology for preparing the base and tiles for wall cladding is described in the relevant sections of the second chapter. Here we just recall that the tiles are sorted by size and pattern and then laid out dry,

From the book All about tiles [Do-it-yourself laying] author Nikitko Ivan

Features of wall cladding using the seam-to-seam method When facing seam-to-seam in horizontal rows, the tiles are arranged one after another without displacement relative to the tiles of the previous rows. The seams along the entire lined surface form uniform horizontal and vertical

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Peculiarities of wall cladding in a staggered way When cladding in a staggered manner, the tiles of the next row are arranged with an offset relative to the tiles of the previous row. The offset is chosen the same: half the width of the tile. The seams of the even rows form their intermittent

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Features of diagonal cladding With diagonal cladding, tile joints form a grid of mutually perpendicular lines that intersect the horizontal axis at an angle of 45° (Fig. 12). Figure 12. Diagonal cladding

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Features of seamless cladding With seamless cladding, the tiles are adjacent to each other closely. This method is used when the lining is made of corrugated or patterned tiles. To make the seam as less noticeable as possible, the edges of the tiles are sometimes even stitched. How

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How to glue drywall to a wall

Sheathing of walls and ceiling with drywall is carried out to level the surface.

To do this, create a frame base of profiles and other materials. However, to level the walls, there is a method of wall cladding without a frame. How to glue drywall to a wall using the right glue can be found in this article.

Cladding with plasterboard sheets: advantages

Facing with GK-sheets is carried out in the following cases:

• surface leveling;
• improved heat and sound insulation;
• hide wires and pipes;
• surface decoration - creating niches, shelves, design decoration curly elements.

The plasterboard sheet has a flat surface, when mounted on a wall, it does not deform, but remains flat. This is convenient for subsequent painting, tiling, wallpapering.

In various rooms with high humidity and high temperature, the following types of GKL are used:

1. An ordinary room with moderate temperature differences is a gray GKL sheet.
2. Wet room: bathroom, corridor in a private house, balcony, attic, kitchen - green leaf GKLV.
3. A room with a working fireplace, a Russian stove, with a rough stove - pink GKLO.

On the construction market, there are types of floor drywall and facade plasterboard for outdoor work.

There are methods for attaching sheets to the surface - frame and without frame. In the first case, profiles are applicable. For the second method, you need to choose the right adhesive composition.

Advantages of gluing GKL to the surface:

• installation is easy and fast;
• less expensive method in comparison with the wireframe;
• this method does not take extra centimeters.

The negative side is the inability to hide wires and communications behind the skin.

When can drywall be glued to a wall without a profile

You can glue GK-sheets in the following situations:

• small rooms where every centimeter of space is important;
• the unevenness of the wall is up to 5 cm;
• when gluing drywall to the ceiling, you need to pick up good glue and make additional fixation with self-tapping screws;
• slope finishing.

In a large room with large wall irregularities, the frameless method is not practical.

Can it be used on uneven walls

One of simple ways align the “falling” wall - sheathe it with drywall on a pre-made frame.

If the difference in the unevenness of the wall is small, the method of gluing sheets is used. To use this technology, you need to familiarize yourself with the nuances and rules.

1. It is necessary to select the type of gypsum and adhesive composition in accordance with the humidity and temperature regime in the room.
2. The frameless method is applicable if the wall has an unevenness of a maximum of 5 cm.
3. During installation, follow step by step instructions in compliance with all rules.
4. For the selection of glue, you need to pay attention to the material of the draft wall.

Subject to all the rules, the installation of GKL on glue will be easy and will serve for a long time.

How to choose the right GKL glue for gypsum gluing

Plasterboard wall cladding is carried out by choosing the right adhesive. The mixture is selected according to environmental factors. Stroy market offers mixtures of:

1. Gypsum glue "Perlfix" manufacturer KNAUF or "Volma-montazh".
2. Plaster based on gypsum: "Start", "Finish".
3. Putty on plaster base"Knauf-fugen".
4. Tile adhesive "Ceresit-SM 11". This cement composition with fillers.
5. Silicone sealant made of acrylic and polyurethane, "liquid nails", mounting adhesive mixture. These mixtures are used for flat surfaces or for gluing sheet to sheet.
6. Mounting foam. The composition is selected with the coefficient "min".

Sealants are mainly used on a brick, concrete wall, foam block.

Is it possible to stick on mounting foam

There are 2 ways to stick a sheet of material to the wall on the foam:

1. First, the plasterboard is fixed to the wall with dowel-nails, then holes are made and the void under the plaster is filled through them.
2. Apply foam to the sheet and stick it to the wall.

First method

The material is placed on a flat horizontal surface. 9-12 holes are drilled in it. After the plasterboard with holes, they are applied to the wall and all the drilled holes are marked with a pencil. On the rough surface, the holes for the dowels are brightened.

The GK-sheet is fastened with dowel-nails. It is not necessary to screw the screw all the way in. It is necessary to achieve evenness of the vertically placed material, therefore, when screwing in, they use a level. When the sheet is exposed, foam is let in through the holes.

Second method

If the wall is even, then the foam is applied to the horizontally lying GKL. After that, the sheet is applied to the wall, leveled and pressed to fight the foam with the surface.

Mounting foam increases by 2-3 times. Therefore, the agent is chosen with the lowest expansion coefficient, and also during drying, the condition of the plasterboard on the wall is constantly checked.

Is it possible to glue plasterboard on tile adhesive

GCR is glued to tile adhesive, but if the wall has irregularities up to 1 cm. If the irregularity is more than 1 cm, the adhesive will eventually fall off along with the drywall sheet.

For greater strength, drywall sheets are additionally fixed with self-tapping screws or dowel-nails.

If you need to make a double cladding of the GKL, then gluing the first layer, put glue 0.3-0.5 mm thick, after complete drying, the same amount of glue is applied for the second GKL. A prerequisite additional fixation with self-tapping screws.

Foam block wall adhesive

The best option for choosing an adhesive for a foam block wall is Perlfix. Holes are made in the GK sheet at a distance of 40 cm with a diameter of 2-2.5 cm. Glue is applied to the wall. Then, immediately, GKL is glued. Excess glue will come out through the holes made. It is removed with a spatula. In this way, additional reinforcement is achieved.

From polystyrene concrete

Polystyrene concrete - made of cement, foam balls, quartz sand and additives. On the wall of this composition, it is necessary to apply adhesive mixtures on cement base with fillers. At the base there is negative point- he freezes. Therefore, for the strength of holding the wall finish, it must be additionally fixed with dowel-nails.

For wooden walls

The cladding of wooden walls is produced in this way:

1. Treatment of wood with an antiseptic.
2. Setting beacons for the evenness of the overlay sheet.
3. From beacons 30 cm holes are made and a plastic sleeve is inserted from the dowel-nail.
4. GK-sheets are glued to the adhesive mixture. Additionally, fix the dowel-nails.

Attention. Before using glue, it is necessary to cover the rough surface with a primer.

For brick and concrete walls

GKL on walls made of brick, concrete is fixed in 4 ways:

1. Glue fixing.
2. Facing with mounting foam.
3. Using self tapping screws.
4. Fixing the dowel-nails.

The choice of method depends on the curvature of the wall and on the humidity.

Concrete wall. Basically, it is even - cement-based glue is used. For better adhesion, notches are made on the wall, covered with a primer, and then GKL is fixed.

Brick wall. fixation facing material produced on mounting foam. Applying foam to the sheet with a snake allows you to control the amount of applied product. After applying the foam to the sheet, wait 2-3 minutes. When the foam begins to expand, the sheet is applied to the wall and leveled.

For mounting on brick wall use foam for mounting polystyrene foam. It does not expand as much as other counterparts.

Preparing a drywall wall: what do you need?

To fix the GKL to the wall, materials and tools are needed:

• The selected type of drywall is moisture resistant, ordinary.
• Dowel-nails, self-tapping screws.
• Selected adhesive for fixing sheets.
• Perforator, construction mixer.
• plumb, rule, sharp knife, level.
• Container for preparing glue, spatula.
• Primer, roller, brush.

After collection necessary tools, as well as the acquisition of all materials, it is necessary to prepare a rough surface.

1. Clean the wall of the old cladding, wallpaper, paint.
2. Existing gaps must be reinforced and putty. Seal all holes with a mortar based on cement or gypsum.
3. The surface is coated with a primer.

When the primer dries, prepare gypsum boards. They cut out holes for switch sockets.

For high-quality wall decoration, you need to properly prepare the adhesive mixture:

• The specified amount of water is poured into a clean container.
• Pour a little dry mixture into the water and mix.
• After that, pour the indicated amount of dry mixture and slowly mix with a mixer.

To obtain a homogeneous mass, it is not necessary to set the mixer at high speed. This will create a lot of air bubbles in the solution.

• After obtaining a homogeneous mass, a small amount of PVA is poured into the glue and mixed again.

After kneading, the solution must stand for at least 5 minutes to completely dissolve the additives and obtain elasticity.

Gluing plaster to the wall with your own hands: a step-by-step guide

Having prepared the draft walls and the solution for fixing the GKL, you can proceed with the installation. There are 3 methods for gluing sheets:

1. Application of adhesive in a continuous layer with a notched trowel. Used for concrete walls.
2. Apply glue in small piles.
3. Use of beacons and lining of foam (gypsum pieces). For very uneven walls.

Each method is applicable according to the evenness of the draft wall.

Sticker of the first sheets

A drywall sheet is placed on long wooden slats opposite the place where it will be fixed. An adhesive composition is applied to the sheet in a continuous layer or in heaps.

After that, the GKL with glue is carefully lifted to the wall. Wires are threaded through the holes. The sheet is raised above the floor by 10 mm - for this you can put a piece of drywall. Apply close to the wall and level. Evenness is measured by the level, the rule along the diagonal, vertically and horizontally. After setting the GCR is pressed against the wall and once again checked for evenness. Glued drywall must be fixed with props.

The second sheet is glued only after the glue has set under the first sheet. The balance is on him.

Corner plastering

wall pasting finishing material begin with inner corner. On an adjacent wall, drywall is glued with an overlap.

To glue the outer corner, you need to measure the distance from the corner to the glued sheet and carefully cut off the measured distance from the whole GKL. This cut-out part with glue is applied to the corner and leveled according to the level, plumb.

The next cut out part is placed on the corner so that it covers the end of the drywall glued to the 900 corner.

Grouting

After facing the wall and completely drying the glue, it is necessary to carry out a series of works to reinforce the joints. For this:

1. Cover the entire surface with a primer. All joints are primed with a brush.
2. After the primer mixture has dried, putty for joints is applied to the joints. A reinforcing tape is glued on it and covered with the same putty on top. If self-tapping screws or dowel-nails were used, then all fasteners are closed with the same solution.
3. When the putty dries, grout with sandpaper to remove all small extra particles of putty and even out the seams.

The last stage is puttying the entire surface and priming before finishing.

What can be glued on smooth plasterboard walls

Plasterboard walls are decorated to your liking. If these are the walls in the bathroom, they glue the tiles. If the room has wallpaper or overlay decorative plaster, less often painting.

Glue drywall to uneven wall you can, if you familiarize yourself with all the nuances and rules of work. Following a clear algorithm, choosing the right adhesive, the GKL construction will last up to 15 years.

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