How to knock out the ceiling on the floor beams. How to hem the ceiling on wooden beams in a private house. And in the process of implementation

The arrangement of the ceiling in a house under construction is not a particular problem if a team of several people is working, or if there is at least one assistant. And how to make a ceiling from a board on your own, without anyone's help? At first glance, it is not easy, but it is quite possible to fill the boards on the ceiling beams, even if we are talking about a six-meter sawlog. The construction of even simple house is never simple and easy, so you have to adapt.

What is the difference between a board ceiling and other cladding options

Some master builders do not sew up ceiling beams with a draft ceiling at all, lay plasterboard lining or sew lining directly on the laid timber. Perhaps such savings are justified in some cases, but in practice, a ceiling made of timber and boards turns out to be much more durable and more convenient in further work.

Filing the ceiling space to a certain extent helps to solve several problems that you will definitely have to face when installing the roof frame and insulating the ceiling:

Stuffing boards on the ceiling solves the problem of a deck or deck that can be walked on unhindered during roof work. It is possible, of course, to lay temporary flooring, but from a practical point of view, this is only a pointless translation of the boards, a waste of time and doing double work;
Sewn ceiling boards significantly increase the rigidity of the ceiling, especially in a situation where spliced boards were used as the material for the beams instead of a full-fledged beam. The difference between a hemmed and non-hemmed ceiling becomes apparent after the installation of the first rafters.

Note! Properly installed boards provide a solid base for laying almost any type of ceiling insulation, from expanded clay backfill, sawdust to mineral slab or XPS.

Instead of a board for filing the ceiling surface, you can use OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood. But such a solution will cost much more than plank flooring, and besides, it is necessary to walk on plywood lining with the utmost care, since the strength of a sheet of 8 mm is noticeably lower than an inch board.

Materials and dimensions of the board under the ceiling sheathing

Almost any construction site is faced with what is called “hunger of materials”, therefore the most expensive and high-quality lumber is sent first of all to the most critical areas, for example, for the construction of a rafter system and the assembly of a batten. You can’t save on these details, and what remains is used for the ceiling.

The most popular board sizes for the ceiling are 150x25 mm. The material, popularly referred to as an inch, can be of different widths, but best option- 150-170 mm.

Edged sawlogs can be easily covered in width with the hand, which sometimes has to be done during stuffing. Don't try to use too much wide board. With an average length of 3 m, the material turns out to be quite heavy and inconvenient to work with, especially if you have to fill it alone.

The thickness of the pine board for the ceiling can be in the range of 20-30 mm, the flooring is strong enough and at the same time not too expensive. The order and scheme of laying the material largely depends on the future lining of the ceiling. For example, if you plan to install a stretch ceiling on boards, then wood upholstery can be done in increments of 20 cm without compromising the strength of the ceiling. In this case, before installing the polymer membrane, it will be necessary to stretch the insulation of the Isospan type, it perfectly passes vapors and at the same time protects inner surface stretch fabric from debris and wood dust.

Basic techniques for filing the ceiling with a board

In fact, the decision on which ceiling boards will be used is made by the customer, it all depends on the financial capabilities and desire of the manager. The three most common binding options most commonly used are:

Knocking the ceiling with scraps makes it possible to thoroughly save on lumber. Such option is suitable for any ceiling structure, moreover, for the ceiling, lumber of any thickness can be used, preferably at least one inch.

The classic option for filling the ceiling

The general rule used when planning for tamping a ceiling with a board is the following: in order to securely fix the sawlog, it does not matter if it is a cut or unedged type, it is necessary that the board, screwed to the beams, come into the edges on the walls. Small, 2.5-3 cm wide shelf on the top row brickwork left at the stage of laying the Mauerlat. It is clear that the shelves should be on at least three walls, two of which are supporting for the beams of the ceiling, and one is the starting one.

In this case, filling the board is not difficult:

We measure the distance between the walls from the shelf to the shelf;
We cut the required amount of sawlogs in one package;
We lay the boards on the shelves and fasten them with self-tapping screws and a screwdriver.

Before fixing the ceiling boards, they must be aligned with the starting bar, beaten with a carpenter's hammer, and only then put the fasteners.

Important! At least two self-tapping screws on each side are used for each sawlog or rough sheathing plank.

In this case, the fasteners must be oblique, that is, each subsequent self-tapping screw is placed with a slight offset to the left or right so that there is not one line that weakens the floor beams.

In the final version, the draft ceiling can be sewn up with clapboard or sheets. A tongue-and-groove board or lining is cut into blanks of the same length and holes for self-tapping screws are immediately drilled. Fasteners are screwed into the holes, and you can fasten the lining to the draft ceiling with a screwdriver. The location of the drilling points does not matter. In this case, the cladding of the lining is held on a wooden shield made of rough sawlogs, and it does not matter where the screws on the ceiling will be wrapped.

How to sew long boards on the ceiling of a wooden house alone

The situation is more difficult when wooden house you have to sheathe the beams of the ceiling with boards of six or more meters. The lack of shelves on the walls and assistants who could hold the material on the ceiling seriously complicates the work.

But, nevertheless, you can make padding with an inch board alone. To do this, you will need to make a T-shaped support from the same board that goes to the skin. The height of the fixture should be 5 cm less than the distance from floor to ceiling.

The system works in this way. A six-meter board is placed at one end at the joint between the ceiling and the wall. Next, a sawlog is raised and, with the help of a T-support, is supported at a distance of two meters from the wall. This is enough to install two fastener lines. By rearranging the support every one and a half meters, you can fix the board on the ceiling without much difficulty.

If the house or building consists of several rooms separated by partitions, then the laying of the hemming material must be carried out simultaneously with the installation of the ceiling beams. In this case, it will be necessary to temporarily remove the Mauerlat from one of the side walls in order to stretch the sawlog into the gap between the partitions and the beams. Fixing lumber on the ceiling is carried out in the same way as in the previous case.

As a rule, the length of six-meter boards is not enough to cover the ceiling from wall to wall with one thread. So that the joint between two sawlogs does not miss the beam and does not hang in the air, it is necessary to mark the distance between the ceiling beam in such a way that the seam between the ends must necessarily fall on the beam laying line.

Rough finishing of the ceiling with scraps - "shorty"

The standard distance between the beams of the ceiling is 60-70 cm, if a spliced beam or board is used, if necessary, the step can be reduced to 50 cm. This allows you to make a rough ceiling from the usual trimming of the board, and it doesn’t matter what thickness, the main thing is that its length be more distance between the lags. In this case, the remaining pieces of edged sawlogs are used, unedged material is practically not used for this ceiling filing scheme.

The available stock of scraps must be carefully sorted and discarded for the presence of defects and knots in the wood. The pieces of material are short and are attached to the ceiling at only two points, so only whole pieces are taken into work.

Hemming the ceiling with boards is carried out in three stages. Initially, one ordinary inch is sewn onto the lower plane of the ceiling beams along the axis. It turns out an inverted T-shaped structure with two supporting shelves, on which the cut-out blanks - “short ones” are laid.

At the next stage, each blank is knocked out with gentle blows to the side and fixed with a stapler or self-tapping screw. Since the distance between the support points is almost two times less, the strength and rigidity of the rough planking with the board is much higher than in the case of using classical scheme. The appearance of the draft ceiling turns out to be quite unusual, but no less interesting than the texture of the cladding from a solid lining.

At the third stage, the stacked trimmings must be fixed on the beams from the side attic space. To do this, you can sew side rails in a similar way, or it’s easier to do it - blow out the joints mounting foam. Foamed polyurethane well seals all the cracks between the boards, so steam will not rise through the joints or crumbs of insulation will fall. Details of working with the ceiling are shown in the video

Conclusion

The work on arranging the ceiling does not end with padding from boards or plywood. Even if the ceiling is left without cladding, after laying the vapor barrier and insulation, it will be necessary to stretch the wiring hoses, cut out boxes for lamps and communications. Therefore, when choosing a filing method, it is important to provide for the possibility of partial disassembly and temporary removal of boards, this can greatly facilitate work in future finishing work.

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Ceiling in a private house: 13 steps to comfort and practicality

This article is about how to make a ceiling in a private house. In it, I am going to touch upon the problems of choosing the height of the ceiling, its structure and the selection of materials for its installation and design. Let's get started.

Height

Minimum

What is the minimum possible ceiling height in a private house?

2.4 meters. By reducing the height even more, you will make the living rooms frankly uncomfortable: the ceilings will literally put pressure on the inhabitants of the house, forcing them to constantly bend down.

By the way: already at a height of 2.4 - 2.5 meters, a person above average height will cling to hanging chandeliers and lamps with his head. Personally verified: with a height of 186 cm, it is rather difficult for me to move freely in a typical Khrushchev or Brezhnevka with hanging light sources.

Optimum

What is optimal height ceiling in the house?

If we talk only about the subjective perception of the room - the more the better. A high room, even with a relatively small area, looks spacious. However, with a significant ceiling height in full height, sorry for the involuntary pun, the problem of heating arises.

Warm air tends to rise, and in order to provide comfortable temperature at floor level, under the ceiling it will have to be heated to +30 + 35C. Excess air heating attic floor means an unjustified increase in heat loss: they are always proportional to the temperature delta with the street.

The problem can be solved in two ways:

With convection heating (using or convectors) - limiting the height of the ceilings to a value of approximately 2.7 meters. In my opinion, this height represents a reasonable compromise between comfort and heat savings;

Hint: the standard ceiling height in new buildings is just that - 2.7 meters. In most houses of Soviet projects, it is noticeably smaller - 2.6, 2.5 and even 2.45 m.

In addition, the distribution of heat in a high room will be optimal in the case of a warm floor - water, cable or film. It will provide a comfortable temperature at the level of human growth, without overheating the air near the ceiling.

By the way: in houses with a second light, underfloor heating and infrared heaters are generally the only sources of heat that can provide a comfortable temperature regime. When using convection heating, either heat at the level of the second floor, or severe cold below will be inevitable.

House with a second light. The only reasonable way of heating is underfloor heating.

Higher, even higher

How to increase the height of the ceilings in the house?

If you have panel or monolithic reinforced concrete floors, you can only change the visual perception of the height of the room using tools from the designers' arsenal.

What exactly?

Light colors make objects appear more distant than they really are. The effect is emphasized by the contrasting coloring of the surrounding objects. Simply put, if you paint the ceiling white and make the walls dark, the room will look much larger than its actual size;

The same effect can be achieved by playing with lighting. To increase the visible height of the ceiling, its hidden illumination with spotlights or spotlights is organized.

Overlaps by wooden beams give much more room for a real increase in the height of the premises.

If the ceiling is hemmed from above along the bottom of the beams, it is worth removing the filing (usually a board shield) and laying the flooring between the beams, along the cranial bars, or on top of them. Yes, and here the effect will be largely visual, since the beams will be only two or three centimeters higher than the old filing; however, the room will become much more spacious.

More radical way- physical increase in the height of the ceiling. To do this, alas, it is necessary to remove the roof, so the work should be timed to coincide with the overhaul of the roof. The height of the walls is increased due to several additional rows of masonry or new log crowns laid on top of the walls.

The log house can also be raised on jacks by starting under it additional one or two crowns.

Finally, in houses with a floor on wooden beams, it is often practiced to dismantle them with the laying of an insulated screed on the ground. The disadvantage of this method is that windows and thresholds doorways rise noticeably relative to the level of the finished floor.

How to raise ceilings in this way?

The floor is opened with the complete dismantling of the flooring and insulation;

Beams are cut;
The soil is removed and leveled;

The subfloor must not be deepened below the level of the foundation. This is fraught with subsidence of the soil and deformation of the walls.

A sandy or sandy-gravel cushion with a thickness of at least 10-15 centimeters is formed on the ground. It will provide drainage and the absence of freezing of the soil under the floor;
A layer of waterproofing is spread over the sand with an overlap on the walls (as a rule, dense polyethylene acts in this role);
Top laid out concrete preparation- a pillow with a thickness of 8-10 centimeters from low-quality (M-100 - M150) concrete;

After gaining strength, a layer of insulation is laid on top - polystyrene foam or foam plastic with a density of C-35. Thickness is determined by local climatic conditions. Usually it is 40-50 millimeters;
On top of another layer of waterproofing film on stands 15-25 mm high, a galvanized reinforcing mesh with a cell of 10-15 cm and a wire thickness of 5-6 mm is laid out;
It is poured with a screed 8-10 cm thick. After gaining strength and leveling the surface in any convenient way (self-leveling floor, plywood, etc.), you can lay the finish coating.

Concrete should come into contact with the wood of the walls only through the waterproofing. In its absence, the lower crowns of the log house or the frame of the walls will quickly rot.

Materials and Solutions

Reinforced concrete floors

What finishing options are used for slab and monolithic reinforced concrete floors?

The simplest (but not the cheapest) way to make the ceiling perfectly flat is to order a stretch ceiling. In Crimea, where I live, it will cost from 400 rubles per square meter. It is useful for the future owner to know several features of this solution:

The minimum distance from the ceiling to the web of the tension flow is about 4 centimeters. Accordingly, the room will become albeit slightly, but lower;

The tension force of the canvas is about 70 kgf per linear meter of the baguette, which is attached to the walls. Accordingly, all walls must have sufficient strength in relation to the horizontal load. Plasterboard partitions are erected with a reinforced frame, and boxes multilevel ceilings from drywall for attaching a baguette, they are strengthened with cuts from the profile;

Glossy ceilings are made from the thinnest vinyl film. For its tension, the air in the room is heated by a gas heat gun to 65 - 75 degrees; after cooling, the canvas stretches and becomes perfectly even.

Gloss visually makes the room taller due to the ghostly reflection of its interior, which is a definite plus. However thin film does not differ in strength: it can be damaged even by a shot of a cork from champagne;

Matte fabric ceilings are cheaper and more durable than glossy ones. However, due to the peculiarities of the connection of the canvases, the seams remain visible on them;
If you plan to hide hidden lamps under stretch ceilings, the platforms for them and the electrical wiring must be installed in advance. At the location of the lamp, an intensifying ring is glued to the canvas, after which the fabric or film inside the ring is cut out.

The ceiling under the stretch ceiling should be pre-treated with antiseptic primer. An airtight sheet will restrict the ventilation of the surface of the slabs or monolith, and it is desirable that fungus does not take advantage of this.

How to finish the reinforced concrete floor if stretch ceilings are undesirable for some reason (for example, due to the small height of the room)?

The most obvious way is to level the ceiling gypsum plaster(Rotband, HP Start and so on) followed by puttying on the fiberglass mesh.

In this case, do-it-yourself finishing is done like this:

The ceiling is cleaned of whitewash and old plaster (of course, if any). This work is easiest to do with a hard steel spatula, having previously moistened the surface abundantly with water two or three times with a small interval using a spray gun or a wide brush;
At the slab floor, they are cut (cleaned of cement mortar old seal) seams. Tools - a chisel and a hammer or a small pick;
The entire surface of the overlap is primed with adhesive primer (concrete contact) with the addition of an antiseptic;
To the ceiling by level, in one horizontal plane beacon profiles are attached. For their fastening, it is better to use not plaster or putty, but building gypsum - it seizes in 3-7 minutes, and not in 30-40;
The plaster is thrown or smeared on the ceiling with a medium spatula or a rectangular trowel. After the area between the profiles with a length of 1 - 1.5 meters is filled, the excess is removed long rule. As a rule, you will have to go through each section several times, with re-filling the gaps;

The plaster layer should not be thicker than 3 cm. If the differences between the floor slabs exceed this value, it is better to prefer a suspended or stretch ceiling.

After the plaster has dried, we move on to puttying. Gypsum putty (I personally liked ABS Saten the most) is applied with a narrow (10-12 cm) spatula on a medium one (30-35 cm) and spread on the ceiling with sliding movements as thin as possible.

After puttying a section 1–1.5 meters long, a sheet of reinforcing glass mesh with a cell of about 2 mm is pressed into the putty with the same spatula. The second layer of putty covers the fiberglass, completely hiding its texture;

The last step is sanding. I use an inexpensive vibrating sander for this purpose with #80 and #120 sanding meshes for the first and second pass, respectively.

It is necessary to grind the ceiling with oblique lighting, emphasizing the slightest irregularities, and with the obligatory use of personal protective equipment - glasses and a respirator or gauze bandage. Gypsum dust strongly irritates the mucous membranes of the eyes and nasopharynx.

Which ceiling is better to make in a room with high humidity - a bathroom, toilet or combined bathroom?

Here are the types of finishes that are most resistant to moisture:

Stretch ceilings already mentioned by me;
Plaster ceilings using cement mixtures. The technology of their application is fundamentally no different from gypsum. If gypsum at high humidity soaks and becomes plastic, then the cement completely retains its mechanical properties;

To level the surface on the plaster, use putty on white cement. It will show through the paint much less.

Suspended - from wall and ceiling plastic panels.

How to build a panel ceiling?

For this you will need:

Ceiling guide profiles UD (27x28 mm) with a total length equal to the perimeter of the room with a small margin for trimming;
Ceiling profiles CD (60x27 mm) with a length equal to or greater than the length or width of the room (they come in 3 and 4 meters). Their number should allow mounting the crate with a step of no more than 60 centimeters - with a larger crate step, the plastic panels will sag after 1 - 1.5 years;

Hint from Captain Obvious: the batten is mounted perpendicular to the panels. Maximum length panels can reach 6 meters, so they are usually oriented parallel to the longer wall of the room.

Direct suspensions are mounted along each ceiling profile with a step of no more than 80 cm;
For their fastening and for mounting the guide ceiling profile, a dowel is used - screws 6x60 - 8x80 mm;
The profiles are connected to each other and to the hangers with self-tapping metal screws 9 mm long. The same self-tapping screws, but already 25 mm long, are hemmed to the panel profiles;
The suspended ceiling itself is assembled from PVC wall or ceiling panels maximum available width with seamless tongue-and-groove locks;

Stop your choice on white glossy panels. They visually almost do not differ from the glossy stretch ceiling; at the same time, they are much stronger and extremely easy to clean: the surface can be wiped with a damp sponge and any non-abrasive detergent.

Vinyl, polyurethane or foam skirting can be used to frame the ceiling and to hide its connection to the walls. The latter is the cheapest and most easy to install: it can be glued to walls and ceilings on any universal adhesive, sealant or acrylic putty.

The preparation of the floor surface is reduced only to treatment with antiseptic soil: a suspended ceiling, like a stretch ceiling, will drastically impair its ventilation and can lead to fungus damage.

The construction of the ceiling is carried out in the following order:

A ceiling guide profile is attached to the wall along the perimeter of the room in a horizontal plane. Mounting step - 50 - 60 cm;
Perpendicular to the panels on the floor, the position of the ceiling profiles is marked;
Along each of them, with a step of 80 cm, direct suspensions are attached with dowel-screws;
Ceiling profiles, cut to size with metal scissors, are inserted into the guides and pressed against the ceiling with the ears of the suspensions bent inward;
Several threads are stretched between the guide profiles, which will serve as guidelines for mounting the ceiling profiles in the same plane. Each of them is lowered until the thread touches, after which the ears of the suspensions are attracted to it with metal screws. The free part of the ears is bent up;
Ceiling profiles are screwed to the rails;

Parallel to one of the walls, the first panel is attached, cut to fit the ceiling.

Hint: PVC is most conveniently cut with a grinder with any abrasive disc. And in this case, eye and respiratory protection is important: fine plastic dust evenly fills the entire volume of the room and settles very slowly.

The panel is attached to the profile at a minimum distance from the wall with self-tapping screws passing through. On the other side of the panel, self-tapping screws attract the protrusion of its tongue-and-groove lock to the profile;
The next panel is inserted into the lock first, after which its protrusion is also attracted to the ceiling profile with self-tapping screws - and so on across the entire width of the room;
The last panel is again fastened with self-tapping screws passing through it at a minimum distance from the wall. The fastener caps will be hidden by the ceiling plinth;
The plinth is glued last, after the fine finishing of the walls is completed.

Beam ceilings

What is the rough ceiling made of on the beams?

Here are the main materials for filing a draft ceiling:

Edged and unedged board. A board shield is usually used for laying insulation on it. The board can both be hemmed to the beams from below, and fit between them, on the cranial bars;

grooved board;
Plywood 10 - 18 mm thick (depending on the step between the beams);
OSB of the same thickness.

What to make a finishing ceiling?

Here are the finishing materials that can be used for this purpose:

Gypsum board and gypsum fiber sheet;

It is better to use not GVL, but GKL. Even if the sheet breaks during transportation or installation, it can be used: the fragments of the gypsum core will be held in one plane by a kraft paper shell. It is enough to securely fix the GKL in the area of damage.

Wooden lining;
Already familiar to us plastic wall panels;
Plywood. Yes, yes, it can serve as a decorative finishing coating. Plywood cut into squares is varnished; the gaps between adjacent sheets are covered with strips of lath, painted in a contrasting color.

How to lay a rough ceiling on cranial bars?

Its device is not complicated:

On the side surfaces logs are stuffed with bars measuring 50x50 mm;
A cut-off board with a thickness of 20 - 25 mm is laid on them (depending on the distance between the lags);

With the same success, you can hem the flooring with wall panels. They are attracted to the boards with self-tapping screws through the protrusions of the locks or sit on glue. Acts as an edging starting profile or plastic corner.

How to hem a plank shield along the beams from below?

Each board is attached to the beam at the point of their intersection with two nails hammered apart (at an angle with an inclination of different sides). This method of fastening will not allow the weight of the ceiling and insulation to pull out the fasteners.

How to make a wooden ceiling with your own hands from lining on beams?

The lining is fastened through kleimers - galvanized steel figured plates. It is better to fasten them to the beams with self-tapping screws. Kleimers allow, if necessary, to disassemble the ceiling without damaging the lining.

Galvanized kleimer - a simple device for fastening the tongue-and-groove lock of the lining to the crate.

The ceiling edging is traditionally done with a wooden plinth. The transverse gaps between the boards connected along the length are hidden by thin slats.

How to fix drywall?

It is attracted to a solid board shield with self-tapping screws in increments of 20-25 centimeters. But when installing on beams or rafters (in the attic or in the attic), under the GKL or GVL, you will have to assemble the crate. I mounted it like this:

A vapor barrier film was hemmed along the rafters with insulation laid between them (5 cm of mineral wool and 5 cm of foam plastic with a density of C-25). The goal is to prevent wetting of the insulation and rotting of the rafters. A furniture stapler was used for filing the film;

The UD ceiling guide profile was fixed to the gables. In my case they are panoramic windows, so the profile had to be attached directly to the plastic frames;
Along the attic to the rafters, a ceiling profile was hemmed on direct suspensions. At the joints of the inclined and horizontal sections of the ceiling, two profiles were mounted next to each other;
GKL sheets were fastened across the profiles of the crate. I used 12.5mm wall drywall instead of the thinner ceiling drywall because the bottom of the sloping ceiling sections are only 1.9 meters high and can be mechanically stressed. For fastening, phosphated self-tapping screws 25 mm long with a step of 15–20 cm were used;

The seams were puttied with ABS gypsum putty and glued with rolled fiberglass, planted on PVA glue, after which they were covered with another layer of putty.

Special mention deserves how the ventilation of the space above the ceiling is arranged. From there, air is taken by an exhaust fan through one of the gables of the attic; at its corners, four supply ventilation grilles are installed in the finished ceiling.

In the photo - lattices for ventilation of the space between the ceiling and the roof of the attic.

For painting the drywall thread were used:

In dry rooms - study and bedroom - latex water-dispersion paint, resistant to dry abrasion;
In the bathroom - waterproof rubber paint on water based. It reliably protects the GKL from water splashes and can be washed with any cleaning agents, except for abrasive ones. The texture of the painted surface is semi-gloss, with a slight sheen.

Conclusion

Of course, in a relatively small article, I did not mention all possible solutions. To learn more about how to sheathe the ceiling in a private house, the video in this article will help the dear reader. I look forward to your comments and additions. Good luck, comrades!

How to hem the ceiling in a private house, a bathhouse, a garage, in a country house or a veranda is not an idle question, because after the completion of construction there remains an ugly rough ceiling, that is, just a wooden floor made of bare beams and boards. But after all, without a high-quality ceiling, the finish, even in the utility room, cannot be considered complete, and filing is an easy way to give the ceiling aesthetics, and at the same time to insulate.

Important. False ceiling should be distinguished from suspended. Between the suspended and the ceiling, 8–10 cm of empty space is left, while the hemmed one is mounted almost close to the ceiling.

False ceiling installation rules

Unlike concrete ceilings in a city apartment, wooden ceilings in a country house or in a country house can be hemmed with almost any material, and the beams can be beautifully beaten in the interior.
Before starting work, the draft structure must be insulated and its air conditioning should be considered.
The ideal material for the bathroom is plastic, because it does not mold or rot at all.
Balconies are most often sheathed with plastic, metal slats or clapboard, because these materials are resistant to temperature extremes.
Open verandas, gazebos, terraces are sheathed with plastic or siding, rack and cassette structures are suitable. Due to low moisture resistance, drywall is not suitable.
The bath requires a moisture-resistant and heat-resistant finish. It is impossible to use resinous wood, plywood, chipboard, plastic in the bath. by the most good choice there will be a lining made of linden or aspen.

Draft ceiling before finishing

How to hem a ceiling

Wood

This is the best material for finishing a country house. Among its advantages are enviable durability, the ability to retain heat, beauty, the ability to give the room comfort and create a special microclimate. The materials of this group vary greatly in cost, so you can always pick up something for both budget and elite repairs.

Plywood

Plywood filing requires knowledge of some nuances. Plywood (except laminated) must be treated with an antiseptic, only then it will last for decades. The frame is made of a bar, and in such a way that the edges of the sheets fall on the bar, otherwise they will sag. The sheets are fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws, the seams are puttied before painting the ceiling.

clapboard

Inexpensive lining has always been a popular material for sheathing. The frame for fixing ordinary and eurolining can be made from a metal profile or a bar. The frame is installed perpendicular to the direction of the lining. The lining itself must first be allowed to mature in the room for at least 48 hours, otherwise there is a risk that it will dry out or swell.

Finishing the bath clapboard

Boards

This is the most unpretentious way to hem the ceiling. The frame is not needed, the boards are nailed immediately to the beams, perpendicular to them.

Ordinary boards can be amazingly good

Plates and panels

From woodworking waste, excellent finishing materials are produced in the form of slabs and panels, all of which can be used to finish the ceiling in a private house. OSB panels, fiberboard and MDF boards have excellent thermal insulation properties and are beautiful. Thanks to double or single-sided lamination, they are easy to care for - just wipe them from dust. In terms of texture and color, the plates and panels imitate natural wood, but they are much cheaper.

They weigh a little, this allows you to install simple lightweight frames under them. Mounted on a pre-installed frame made of wooden beams. As in the case of plywood sheets, the joints should fall on the bar. Each slab is first nailed in the center and in the corners, then along the perimeter and in other places. The sheets have a large area, while they are flexible, so you need to nail them with high quality so that they do not sag over time.

MDF boards well suited for decorating a country house

Plastic

Another inexpensive material that does not look as beautiful as wood, but has an ideal resistance to moisture. Used in bathrooms, toilets, kitchens. plastic ceiling is a smooth and even surface overhead without the cost of painting. It is easy and quick to assemble even by yourself, because the material is almost weightless and made in the form of narrow panels that can be held in the hands of one person.

Frame under plastic trim in wooden houses they are made from a bar 2.5–3.0 cm wide, on concrete ceilings - from metal guides. The frame pitch is 50 cm, the panels are fixed with self-tapping screws. Finally, a decorative plinth is fixed along the perimeter of the ceiling, covering the joints.

metal slats

Slatted false ceilings are gaining popularity mainly due to the fashion for them. Reiki can be metal (steel, aluminum) and "metal-like". The great advantage of the material is complete fire safety, the disadvantage is that there is no heat and sound insulation. Care consists in regular washing without abrasive materials, since it is quite easy to scratch the slats.

The rack construction is very quickly and skillfully assembled without fasteners, like a children's designer, it is practically weightless. But still, in wooden houses it is better not to make such ceilings, but to hem concrete floors with them.

Metal slats are not afraid of dampness and do not rot, but the wooden floors under them quickly deteriorate

Siding

The siding ceiling will look appropriate on the porch, open veranda, loggia or in the utility room, because it is traditionally considered a material for the exterior of houses. Having trained on the ceiling of the veranda, you can then sheathe the outer walls of the house with siding yourself. This is a very durable and moisture resistant material, has a large selection of colors and textures. Despite outdoor use, it retains its color and strength for decades.

There are metal and vinyl siding. Vinyl, flexible and inexpensive, well suited for ceiling decoration. Simple installation on a branded profile and low weight make it possible to mount the panels on the ceiling alone. Vinyl siding can swell slightly due to temperature changes, so during installation, you need to leave an extra centimeter around the perimeter of the ceiling. Care is the easiest - water plus any detergent.

Hemmed with drywall, left beams in plain sight for decoration

Drywall

Drywall is a recognized leader for the construction of false ceilings in any residential area. They trim the ceilings in seasonal country houses, houses with permanent residence, in huge, like an old castle, country houses. It has the only drawback - it is not sufficiently moisture resistant, warps and deforms from steam and dampness.

Tip: the industry produces more expensive moisture-resistant drywall for rooms with a difficult microclimate.

The frame for drywall is made from a profile or bar 5x3 or 4x4 cm, the sheets are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. For a false ceiling, unlike a suspended one, it is not necessary suspension mounts, mount sheets directly on the frame.

Video: filing with wooden beams

False ceilings do not "eat up" the height of the room. In a sense, making them is easier than hanging ones, and the conditions of country life make it possible not to think much about how to hem the ceiling, to use inexpensive materials that cannot be used in a city apartment.

The ceiling surface is an integral element of the interior of any room. The method of finishing the ceiling often helps to solve several problems at once. For example, visually enlarge the room, make the ceilings higher, or vice versa, reduce their height and make the room more comfortable. In addition to aesthetic purposes, a false ceiling can also help in solving the problem of how best to hide communications. In addition, a false ceiling can perform the function of heat and sound insulation if necessary. For these and other purposes, you can use a variety of finishing ceiling materials.

In order to rationally select the appropriate finishing material for the ceiling surface, several factors should be taken into account.

Namely:

Temperature and humidity conditions in the room;
The probability of flooding the ceiling in apartment building;
Lighting device method;
The need for heat and sound insulation of the ceiling;
The need to hide existing communications;
Possible change in ceiling height;
Aesthetic requirements for the ceiling surface, etc.

All these factors directly affect the choice of finishing material with which the ceiling will be hemmed in the house.

So, in the case of a standard apartment located in an apartment building, for rooms other than the bathroom and the kitchen, you can use several types of finishing ceiling materials.

Namely:

Drywall;
PVC film;
Fiberboard, chipboard, decorative plywood;
Plastic panels.

For bathrooms, baths and kitchens, loggias, balconies, materials such as:

PVC film;
plastic panels;
Aluminum rack panels.

In addition, OSB boards are also suitable for the loggia and balcony (they are also called OSB or OSB). As a finishing material for the ceiling in the country house or in a country house, you can use decorative plywood or wooden lining.

It should be noted that in order for the roof of the dacha not to leak in the autumn-winter period, and the owners were not met by icicles hanging from the ceiling, and the rooms in the house did not turn into ice caves, it is necessary to take care of a high-quality roof, for example, covered with a profiled sheet, and ceiling insulation. For thermal insulation of ceilings, it is advisable to use modern heaters, which simultaneously act as sound and vapor barrier (these are mainly foil materials).

The choice of finishing ceiling material depends, first of all, on its physical and chemical characteristics and temperature and humidity conditions in the room where this material will be used.

As for the choice of material in order to sheathe the ceiling in non-residential premises, then, in this case, the ceiling finish must withstand temperature extremes, high humidity, be resistant to fungi and not lose appearance.

For non-residential premises and buildings, for example, garages, gazebos, etc., you can use "unpretentious" materials for filing the ceiling, which can withstand temperature fluctuations and high humidity, of course, provided that these finishing elements are adequately protected. So, a gazebo, the ceiling of which is hemmed with boards treated with an antiseptic and paints and varnishes, will delight the owners and guests for a long time, protecting them from the sun and bad weather.

In addition to wood, ceiling sheathing in the gazebo can also be done using:

OSB boards, primed and painted paintwork materials for outdoor woodwork;
plastic panels;
Painted wooden lining etc.

The optimal and affordable option for a gazebo is to hem the ceiling with OSB boards or plastic panels.

How to hem a ceiling

When filing the ceiling with various materials, a number of nuances should be taken into account.

Namely:

As a rule, all materials for filing the ceiling are attached to a fixture such as a frame (batten) made of wood (in rooms with low humidity and slight temperature changes) or metal.
The load-bearing frame can be attached both to the walls and to the ceiling.
Geometrically correct frame provides a perfectly flat base to create a flat ceiling.
The size of the frame cells is determined by the features and size of the hemmed material. The same factors determine the step of fastening the hemmed material to the frame.
As a rule, for attaching hemming material to the crate, different kinds self-tapping screws, the length of which exceeds the width of the hemmed material by 2-3 times. Self-tapping screws are screwed into panels or plates with a certain indent from the edge (10-20 mm).

When filing the ceiling with wood materials, gaps (2-3 mm) should be left between sheets or slabs to take into account temperature and humidity deformations.

As for specific types of ceilings, the main features of their installation are as follows:

False ceiling from boards. One of the easiest types of ceilings to mount with your own hands. Before installation, it is advisable to treat the board with an antiseptic composition and paint or purchase ready-made wooden panels that have already been processed as necessary
Stretch ceiling made of PVC film. Mounted with a heat gun on a pre-installed frame. Installation of a stretch ceiling made of PVC is carried out by companies specializing in the manufacture of stretch ceilings.
Ceiling made of fiberboard, chipboard, decorative plywood. Such ceilings, when mounted with an emphasis on walls, can also serve as mezzanines.
Plastic panels. Installation of a ceiling made of plastic panels is carried out on a frame made of a metal profile using self-tapping screws with a press washer. For creating beautiful ceiling you should choose high-quality PVC panels.
Plasterboard ceiling. Plasterboard ceiling is more convenient to install together. When working with this material, chipping of the edges of the sheets should be avoided.
OSB ceiling. These plates are suitable for installation in temporary residences or non-residential premises due to the release of such harmful substances into the surrounding space. chemical substances, like phenol, which is used in the manufacture of OSB boards.
Aluminum rack ceiling. Fastening elements are not required for attaching aluminum rails to the supporting frame.

The aluminum panels are attached to the universal stringer rail with a simple click.

It must be said that although there are different ways ceiling cladding with various materials, the main rule when installing a false ceiling is to create a geometrically correct frame.

What is sheathed first: walls or ceiling

According to experts, the walls should be sheathed first, and only then the ceiling, since its finishing is the final stage.

And in the process of implementation, you can:

Adjust the height of the walls and ceiling;
Hide flaws and communications;
Adjust lighting.

Thus, it is advisable to hem the ceiling only after finishing the walls.

How to hem a ceiling (video)

Summing up, it should be noted that the modern construction industry offers a wide range of finishing materials for filing the ceiling, both natural and synthetic. However, the key to creating a beautiful and functional ceiling is geometrically correct framework and high quality lining material.

Important. False ceiling should be distinguished from suspended. Between the suspended and the ceiling, 8–10 cm of empty space is left, while the hemmed one is mounted almost close to the ceiling.

False ceiling installation rules

Unlike concrete ceilings in a city apartment, wooden ceilings in a country house or in a country house can be hemmed with almost any material, and the beams can be beautifully beaten in the interior.
Before starting work, the draft structure must be insulated and its air conditioning should be considered.
The ideal material for the bathroom is plastic, because it does not mold or rot at all.
Balconies are most often sheathed with plastic, metal slats or clapboard, because these materials are resistant to temperature extremes.
Open verandas, gazebos, terraces are sheathed with plastic or siding, rack and cassette structures are suitable. Due to low moisture resistance, drywall is not suitable.
The bath requires a moisture-resistant and heat-resistant finish. It is impossible to use resinous wood, plywood, chipboard, plastic in the bath. The best choice would be a lining made of linden or aspen.

Draft ceiling before finishing

How to hem a ceiling

Wood

This is the most unpretentious way to hem the ceiling. The frame is not needed, the boards are nailed immediately to the beams, perpendicular to them.

Ordinary boards can be amazingly good

MDF boards are well suited for finishing a country house

Plastic

Another inexpensive material that does not look as beautiful as wood, but has an ideal resistance to moisture. Used in bathrooms, toilets, kitchens. A plastic ceiling is a smooth and even surface above your head without the cost of painting. It is easy and quick to assemble even by yourself, because the material is almost weightless and made in the form of narrow panels that can be held in the hands of one person.

The frame for plastic trim in wooden houses is made from a bar 2.5–3.0 cm wide, on concrete ceilings - from metal guides. The frame pitch is 50 cm, the panels are fixed with self-tapping screws. Finally, a decorative plinth is fixed along the perimeter of the ceiling, covering the joints.

metal slats

Metal slats are not afraid of dampness and do not rot, but the wooden floors under them quickly deteriorate

Siding

The siding ceiling will look appropriate on the porch, open porch, loggia or utility room, because it is traditionally considered a material for the exterior of houses. Having trained on the ceiling of the veranda, you can then sheathe the outer walls of the house with siding yourself. This is a very durable and moisture resistant material, has a large selection of colors and textures. Despite outdoor use, it retains its color and strength for decades.

There is metal and vinyl siding. Vinyl, flexible and inexpensive, well suited for ceiling decoration. Simple installation on a branded profile and low weight make it possible to mount the panels on the ceiling alone. Vinyl siding can swell slightly due to temperature changes, so during installation, you need to leave an extra centimeter around the perimeter of the ceiling. Care is the easiest - water plus any detergent.

Hemmed with drywall, left beams in plain sight for decoration

Drywall

Drywall is a recognized leader for the construction of false ceilings in any residential area. They finish the ceilings in seasonal country houses, houses with permanent residence, in huge, like an old castle, country houses. It has the only drawback - it is not sufficiently moisture resistant, warps and deforms from steam and dampness.

Tip: the industry produces more expensive moisture-resistant drywall for rooms with a difficult microclimate.

The frame for drywall is made from a profile or bar 5x3 or 4x4 cm, the sheets are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. For a false ceiling, unlike a suspended one, no hanging fixtures are needed, the sheets are mounted directly on the frame.

Video: filing with wooden beams

toppotolok.su

How to hem a ceiling on wooden beams in a house: the use of modern technologies

After building your own country dwelling, many questions arise regarding the interior decoration and arrangement of the premises of a wooden structure. One of these questions that worries many people who have just built their wooden dwelling is how to hem the ceiling along wooden beams.

Immediately after construction, a rough foundation can be observed in the house, which does not always meet the requirements of aesthetics. In addition, such a ceiling easily loses heat, so this species unattractive for housing that is planned to be used all year round.

Without the construction of a high-quality finish of the rough ceiling, construction cannot be considered completed. The filing will allow you to forget about the unaesthetic space and contribute to the insulation of the room.

How can I hem a rough ceiling

The rough base is a platform for future fine finishing, which will include waterproofing work, insulation and cladding. The basis of the draft base is a transverse boardwalk, as well as beams that perform a load-bearing function.

Sometimes the ceiling space is not sheathed at the level of wooden beams, that is, they are not sewn into a GKL box or leveled to the level of the beams in order to obtain a smooth, even surface. This option involves reducing the height level by a distance of at least 20 cm. Sometimes a method is used when the beams become an integral decorative element of the interior.

In most cases, sheathing on beams occurs using the following materials:

Wood;
Plasterboard sheets;
plastic panels;
Wood fiber boards;
Siding;
Stretch fabric;
profiled sheet;
Plywood.

It should be mentioned that the draft ceiling is not able to protect the space from cold air and moisture. Ceiling sheathing has not only aesthetic tasks - to hide the unflattering underside of the construct, but also practical - to insulate the room and prevent moisture.

As a rule, for warming, the lining is created in several layers. First, the laying of basalt slabs takes place, then the waterproofing is laid. And the final stage is the installation of the finishing layer - decorative trim.

Varieties of sheathing materials and their properties

Ceilings on wooden beams are often found even in the most modern varieties country houses, and in dwellings made of wood - most often. For sheathing the ceiling vault, a variety of materials are used:

Basic rules for filing the ceiling

Wooden ceilings, unlike concrete counterparts, can be hemmed with various materials, while there is an option to make the beams a beautiful decorative element in the composition.

Before starting installation work, it is necessary to insulate the rough base. For bathrooms, a plastic panel finish is an excellent solution, as it will not rot. At the same time, it must be remembered that before work on the sheathing, it is necessary to treat the rough surface with an antiseptic.

Balconies and loggias can be beaten with plastic, metal slats or sheathing boards - such materials are resistant to adverse weather conditions.

When sheathing the ceiling vault open buildings such as gazebos and terraces, you should choose plastic panels or siding. In this case, rail structures are also suitable. It is not recommended to mount drywall on open buildings.

To cover the ceilings inside the baths, it is necessary to arrange a finish that is resistant to moisture and high temperatures. The ideal solution for baths and saunas there will be a cladding board.

An interesting option would be architectural carving on existing beams, after which the surface is treated with varnish or coloring compositions.

Conclusion

Ceiling filing is not only a way to add aesthetics to the space, but also a necessity that helps to maintain the microclimate in the room. Competent sheathing along the beams can transform the interior, making it warm and cozy. To do the job correctly, you need to understand the intricacies of the selected material, as well as study the methods of warming and waterproofing the rough base. Quality work will ensure reliable and beautiful surface that will last for many more years.

Video: rough ceiling sheathing

derevostroika.ru

Good ceiling for a wooden house

How to hem the ceiling in a wooden house? The comfort and safety that will surround a person largely depends on the correct solution of this issue.

If a wooden ceiling, despite all the ecological, functional, aesthetic value of the material from which it is made, is finished without taking into account the features of operation, many of its advantages will be lost.

High-quality work with a wooden floor requires not only attention, but also significant financial costs. And in order not to lose them in vain, it is worth clarifying your knowledge of how the correct filing of such a ceiling should look like.

Ceiling structure

A fundamental feature of the ceiling of any wooden house follows from the fact that such buildings, as a rule, are built one-story. Often the ceiling in them acts as a ceiling that separates the living quarters from the attic or roof.

This means that he does not experience the increased loads of the upper floors on which people can live. Therefore, when sheathing the ceiling in a wooden house, there is no need to use heavy, with a large margin of safety. structural elements.

It is often enough to take for this light wooden beam.

But it is the presence of an unheated (in most cases) attic ceiling on top that imposes special requirements on the wooden floor, despite the excellent thermal insulation properties of wood.

Good design of this important part of the building should be multi-layered.

This implies the following elements:

Plank flooring. Performs the function of simultaneously overlapping and flooring of the upper level.
Vapor barrier layer. Provides effective protection of the entire system against moisture contained in vapors that rise to the ceiling from below.
Thermal barrier. It consists of one or more layers of insulation, which does not allow heat to escape through the ceiling and thereby maintains a comfortable atmosphere in the room.
Waterproofing. Protects the wooden ceiling, its elements and insulation from the penetration of moisture from the outside.
Binder ( finishing material). Represents the front part of the ceiling. It can be sheathed with wood, plastic and other building materials.

Types of filing

Modern industry gives a very detailed and detailed answer to the question of how to sheathe the ceiling in a wooden house.

Opportunities interior design offers the following types of products:

Finishing components made of wood. This group includes variety of options lining, plywood, processed boards, plates and panels from woodworking waste. Experts consider wood to be the best material for ceilings in houses made from logs or planed timber. Building parts made from natural raw materials perfectly retain heat, extraneous noise, are quite durable (with the right and timely care behind them), have a very attractive ("warm") appearance, go well with the wood of the walls. However, they are quite expensive.
Plastic rails and panels. Relatively inexpensive material, but looks somewhat more modest than wood counterparts. Nevertheless, plastic ceiling elements also have a beautiful appearance and one big advantage compared to wood - they are not at all afraid of dampness. Therefore, they are primarily mounted on ceilings in bathrooms, bathrooms, and kitchens. Experts recommend paying attention to large glossy panels without seams.
Plasterboard elements. A very common option for ceiling filing in living rooms. With their help, you can achieve the perfect evenness of the room vault. The few significant drawbacks include the poor resistance of drywall to moisture: it warps from dampness.
Siding. Although this material was originally intended for exterior finish buildings, recently it has become quite actively used for inner lining ceilings. It is easy to install, moisture resistant and has a rich texture and color palette.

However, there are a number of materials and ceiling systems that do not look good in a wooden house.

In particular, experts do not advise using plastic lining with highlighted seams, tension systems, polystyrene foam and foam boards for filing ceilings.

Moreover, the main argument against their use is not the quality of these materials, but their poor aesthetic compatibility with wood.

How and with what to sheathe the ceiling - each customer decides independently to the best of his taste and financial capabilities. But in any case, it is useful to listen to the advice of experienced builders.

Many experts, when choosing the optimal design of the room in general and the ceiling in particular, recommend paying attention to ceiling beams. They look very beautiful and a little mysterious, especially if they are dark on the ceiling. light tone.

Light ceilings, especially painted white, make the room visually higher.

When using plasterboard panels, it must be borne in mind that they differ in significant weight. Therefore, they should be fixed to the ceiling by means of an iron profile, which is screwed to the wooden flooring with strong self-tapping screws.

In areas with a warm climate, it is better to make thermal insulation of a minimum thickness.

flawlessly flat ceiling from drywall will look very impressive with a fairly large ceiling plinth.

Instead of a conclusion

The false ceiling is very convenient and relatively easy to install.

But having decided to do it yourself, do not neglect the help and recommendations of professionals. After all, the customer ultimately needs a well-made ceiling, which will only emphasize the attractiveness of the entire home interior.

yapotolok.ru

How to sheathe the ceiling in a wooden house inside - finishing instructions and photos

How to sheathe the ceiling in a wooden house inside, so that it is beautiful, practical and environmentally friendly is not an easy question. Not all types of finishes are combined with wood - a material with a pronounced natural origin. When choosing, you need to focus on the design direction and texture of the walls. If this country style, then beams and imitation logs will go, for a luxurious living room a smooth texture is more appropriate, in modern interior fit new technologies - tension and suspended structures.

Features of the installation of ceilings in a wooden house

The design of the ceiling of a wooden house has its own specifics. Because of the relatively light beam ceiling to which the ceiling elements are attached, wooden walls carry much less weight. A heat-insulating ball and a vapor barrier are laid between the beams, a draft ceiling is mounted under the insulation, and a half-attic or upper floor is mounted on top.

Ceiling trim from rails and beams

Draft ceiling - the basis for decoration

The initial stage of finishing the ceiling in a wooden house involves the construction of a rough floor. For its manufacture, a beam is used, which is installed on the edge. By reducing the installation step, this method strengthens the entire ceiling structure.

With the help of nails, cranial bars are fixed to the sides of the beams. They will be the basis of the surface of the draft ceiling. To cover it is necessary to prepare the boards, cutting them to the desired size. Their length should be slightly less than the distance between the beams. Finished boards need to be laid out so that a perfectly even coating is obtained.

Before hemming the ceiling along the wooden beams, it is necessary to carry out the treatment with antiseptics that protect the wood from pests, the appearance of fungus, mold.

The device and the choice of material for vapor barrier

In order to limit the penetration of steam from the room into the insulation, a vapor barrier ball is mounted. The lack of moisture does not allow mold and fungi to develop in the wooden part of the ceiling.

There are different types of vapor barrier films:

Polyethylene standard vapor barrier film. Serves to prevent the formation of condensate.
Foil vapor barrier with improved insulating properties and reflecting heat. Such a film is best used in conditions of high humidity.
The membrane film controls the amount of humid air leaving the room.
Membrane film with variable vapor permeability. The more humidity in the room, the more throughput isolation.

Vapor barrier layer in the ceiling pie

The vapor barrier film is first rolled out on the surface, after which it is wrapped and its edges are fixed. The ends of the material must overlap. If the film rests against the elements of the ceiling or other node, it cannot be cut. In this case, bend and fasten.

Thermal insulation layer to save resources

It is necessary to insulate the ceilings in a wooden house. It has been proven that up to 30% of heat loss occurs through cracks in the ceilings. For this purpose, you can use different thermal insulation materials:

Mineral wool. This universal fibrous material produced from minerals. Its advantage is that it does not burn.
Ecowool. Insulation made of cellulose and other non-volatile substances. Does not rot, does not support combustion, has good insulating performance.
Granular insulation. Its components are sawdust, antiseptic and glue. With good thermal insulation properties inferior in terms of sound insulation.
Styrofoam. Inexpensive and lightweight material that can be easily and quickly mounted. The disadvantage is that it supports combustion, mice often start up in it, and over time the foam can crumble.
Expanded clay. Made from clay. This porous material has high fire resistance and increased sound insulation.

The heat-insulating ball is mounted on top of the vapor barrier film. Insulation should tightly fill the entire space between the beams. To do this, the insulation in the plates is cut, but not in size, but 2-4 cm more than the distance between the blocks. Mineral wool is laid end-to-end, and a small gap is left between the foam balls, which must be filled with mounting foam.

Ceiling cladding for finishing

After carrying out work on the device of the draft ceiling, vapor barrier and insulation, you can proceed to the sheathing. It is difficult to give an unequivocal answer to the question of which ceiling is better in a wooden house - there are a lot of finishing options. The final choice depends on the style of interior design of the house itself. The main types of ceilings are hemmed and suspended. But recently, there has been a tendency to incline the owners of wooden houses to stretch types of ceilings made of film and fabric.

With the help of hems and suspended ceilings you can quickly, beautifully and reliably give the interior a finished look. Basically, in a wooden house, a tree is used for this purpose. But other materials also have the right to life.

The circuit is pretty simple. First, a frame is assembled, on which the coating details are attached, which make up an integral pattern. The designs differ only in the presence of a suspension. The hemmed version involves the use of a frame that is rigidly attached to the rough floor.

Sheathing with a board or clapboard - design options and installation technology

Before you make a ceiling in a private house, please note that for its sheathing in wooden building it is better to choose a board, wooden lining or MDF. Plastic panels in this case will be inappropriate. For original design you can choose a laminate, and a block house looks great in a house made of timber.

The attractiveness of choosing wood finishes

Advantages:

Environmental friendliness. The panels, like the board on the ceiling in the house, are made of wood material without the use of resins and harmful phenol.
Design. The color, texture and width of the skin can be chosen for each specific interior.
Water resistance. The material is not afraid of moisture, which makes it possible to install it in bathrooms, saunas, and kitchens.
Easy care. To clean the lining, it is enough to wipe it with a damp cloth, without using cleaning products.
Functionality. All the necessary communications are easily placed inside the design of such a ceiling.

DIY installation instructions

Technologically, the installation process is practically the same and includes several stages:

The last bar must be cut not only in length, but also in width, while not forgetting to leave gaps from the walls. In addition, it must be fixed by analogy with the first.
Holes for spotlights can be made before or after installing the panels on the ceiling.
Finishing work on finishing includes the installation of lamps and a skirting board, the function of which is to embellish the interior of the room, as well as to hide the seams between the ceiling and the wall. If desired, the material can be coated with a colorless varnish.

Plywood sheathing - an economical choice

Question: how can ceilings be made in a house can be solved using ordinary or waterproof plywood as a material for filing.

Advantages of plywood for ceiling decoration

This product has several advantages:

Naturalness. The natural components of plywood create a favorable climate in the room, filling it with the aroma of wood.
Light weight. Sheets will not create loads on the base.
Moisture resistance. The processed plywood perfectly serves in the conditions of the increased humidity.
Price. Plywood ceilings in a wooden house are an order of magnitude lower than most other options.
Strength. Due to the multi-layer, plywood has a greater degree of strength.

Plywood is based on wood

Of the obvious shortcomings, only two can be distinguished: the material supports combustion and is afraid of water.

Two technologies for mounting plywood sheathing

Installation of plywood on the ceiling in a wooden house is done on a wooden crate of bars. For sheathing, sheets with a thickness of 4-8 mm are used. Thin sheets can be installed on glue, thicker sheets are nailed to the frame or screwed with self-tapping screws.

Plywood brand FK is considered the most environmentally friendly. She has practically no harmful substances, and carbamide glue serves as a binder between the layers. Consider both options for attaching plywood sheets to the base.

Mechanical installation:

During the initial fixation, the plate is placed in the middle of the bar and fixed in one place.
After that, the plywood is leveled with other bars and finally fixed.
For installation, nails are used, the length of which is twice the thickness of the sheet.
In the case of self-tapping screws, holes must be drilled under them before screwing into the panel.
Fastening is carried out in increments of 15-25 cm, and in the middle of the sheet - 25-45 cm. In this case, you need to deviate from the edge by at least 1 cm.
Between adjacent sheets, as well as at the walls, it is necessary to leave a compensation gap of 2-3 mm.

Gluing plywood:

Sheets are cut into 2-3 parts
Glue is applied to the plywood, which is leveled with a notched trowel.
After that, the panels are fixed to the base and pressed tightly for 1 min.
It is important not to forget about the compensation gap.
For gluing to a wooden base, you can use PVA glue.

Before hemming the ceiling in a private house, plywood must be kept indoors for at least two days. For cutting plywood, a jigsaw, a hand saw or a fine-toothed hacksaw is suitable.

Finishing - installation of the plinth between the ceiling and the wall, as well as hiding with wooden slats gaps between sheets, if they are very noticeable. The ceiling can be varnished.

The scheme of the ceiling "pie"

Practical and fast plasterboard sheathing

Plasterboard ceilings most relevant when it is necessary to level a very uneven surface. There are two main ways to fix drywall in a wooden house: on wooden base from bars and onto a traditional metal frame.

Drywall in a timber house

Features of mounting on a wooden frame

A wooden frame for drywall is more suitable if the task is to make a simple single-level ceiling. At the same time, various kinds of flaws are perfectly hidden without losing the height of the room. But you need to remember that only well-dried high-quality wood can be used for such a frame.

Procedure:

At the beginning of work, you should determine the lowest point of the base, retreat 5 cm from it and, using a level, draw a horizontal line around the perimeter of the room.
After that, along this horizontal line, fix the slats and bars along the length of the room in increments of 80 cm in a circle.
To them, in increments of 50 cm, attach the supporting strips perpendicularly, which will become the basis for drywall.

Technology of sheathing on a metal frame

A metal frame for attaching drywall is more reliable. Its design includes guide profiles that hold the ceiling frame, and rack profiles, to which the plasterboard is mounted.

Mounting order:

By analogy with a wooden frame, the ceiling level is set and guide profiles are attached around the perimeter using self-tapping screws or dowels.
A guide profile is attached to them in increments of 40 cm.
The entire structure is fastened with self-tapping screws.
To increase rigidity, you need to use suspensions.
If it is planned to install a chandelier or ceiling lamp to illuminate the room in the future, it is advisable to install mortgages that will hold the lamp. To this end, the frame is in place lighting device you need to attach several rack profiles.

The combination of drywall and wood

Mounting drywall sheets begins with marking the drywall according to the size of the room and cutting it. The plates are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws after 25 cm. At the same time, their heads are slightly recessed into the panel. A sickle mesh is glued to the joints between the sheets, after which the primer, putty and painting of drywall are performed.

Fashionable and stylish ceiling with beams

Beamed ceilings in a private house help to decorate the interior with clear lines. This type of sheathing can be done using beams made of natural wood or decorative beams, or as they are also called, false timber. Both options have a number of advantages - this is ease of installation, natural origin, attractive appearance.

At the initial stage of installation, a tracer cord is stretched, with which the degree of horizontality of the ceiling and frame is checked. The quality of the assembly of the finished ceiling depends on this.

As for the installation itself, in the case of wooden beams, everything is quite simple: they are nailed or screwed with long self-tapping screws to an already finished base.

The combination of beams with lining

With a false beam, it is a little more difficult. First, a frame is made. To do this, you can use a metal profile or a wooden beam. The second option slightly simplifies the fastening of the false beam. It is already possible to attach decorative beams to the finished frame.

To metal profiles they are screwed with self-tapping screws, and they are nailed to wooden beams with finishing nails. If the beam does not adhere tightly to the ceiling, wedges can be placed under it, and fastening should be done with longer self-tapping screws.

Modern stretch ceilings

The task - the better to hem the ceiling in a private house, can be solved with the help of stretch ceilings. They are film and fabric, look good, are great for wooden interior are easy to install and easy to maintain. In addition, the film and fabric are not susceptible to deformation during shrinkage at home. It is easy to hide communications above them, they are environmentally friendly, and in the version with fabric there is a “breathing” effect.

Stretch ceiling in a wooden house

Practical film decor

Installation of the stretch film should begin with the installation of the mounting profile. To do this, using the level, you need to mark the entire perimeter of the room. The profile or baguette is glued along the marked line to the wall. When the glue hardens, it is recommended to additionally fix the fastener with self-tapping screws. Immediately mark the locations of fixtures and communications.

Stretch ceiling system

Installation of a glossy film involves the use of a heat gun. At the initial stage, the canvas must be fixed in the corners of the room, after which the temperature in the room should be raised to 40-50º with a cannon. After that, gradually moving along the entire material with a heat gun, place the edges of the film in a baguette and fix it securely. When the ceiling is already stretched, it needs to be allowed to cool and take shape, then cut off the extra corners.

Glossy surface makes the room look higher

The matte stretch ceiling is stretched manually and fixed in a baguette in the direction from the center of the walls to the corners. After that, excess material is removed. The final stage is the installation of fixtures according to the markings carried out earlier.

Ceiling textiles

Textile ceilings for the elite

Textiles, unlike PVC film, have the ability to "breathe". In addition, the fabrics are very durable and retain their shape perfectly. Another advantage is the width of fabric panels, they are much wider than film competitors, which allows you to make a seamless coating in large rooms.

The installation process is similar to the matte film installation method. The differences are that the fabric is initially fixed in a baguette in the center and further towards the corners every 50-60 cm, after which, in order to avoid wrinkles, it is evenly stretched over the edges. The corners in the profile are fixed last.

Regardless of whether you choose a wooden ceiling or a ceiling made of another material, the main thing is that it harmoniously fits into the interior and becomes a real decoration of your home.