Hello dear friends.

Continuing the topic of capital in this article, I want to highlight the issue in detail, how to lay tiles on the wall with your own hands.

What to consider and what materials to purchase

We decided on the arrangement of furniture and plumbing fixtures (, toilet bowl, etc.). We hid everything in the wall, planned places and water outlets to the sink and. Our walls are even and vertical, or at least deviations are within acceptable limits and can be corrected with a thickness of glue.

We bought a tile on the wall and glue for gluing it. You can start laying ceramic tiles on the wall.

Instruments

For work we need following tools: notched trowel, small straight trowel, 2 levels (long and short), tile cutting tool, plastic corners for jointing, square, ruler, pencil.

DIY step-by-step instructions for wall cladding with ceramic tiles

Preparing the surface

This issue must be approached very responsibly. The final result will depend on how well our surface is prepared.

The surface must be clean, free from dust, dirt and oil stains. If, for example, like mine, the tile will fit on the painted surface, it is imperative to make notches over the entire painted surface. It is imperative to cover the walls with coarse-grained concrete contact soil for better adhesion of the tile to the surface. As a result, the wall will look something like the photo below.

All peeling plaster, peeling paint, loose wall pieces, whitewash and polymer-based filler must be removed.

Determining the location of the horizontal rows

If you already have a high-quality horizontal finishing floor, you can tie to it, and the first row of ceramics will start from the floor. This is the most preferred option, following which the rows will go very evenly and horizontally. The first row is placed on the floor with a certain gap equal to the thickness of the joints between the tiles.

Unfortunately, it is not always possible to apply this option, most often you have to start laying from 2 rows or even from 3 rows. This is due to the fact that:

Sometimes only the walls are tiled, and the floor remains intact and is rarely perfectly horizontal.

Below, along the wall, there are external communications that must be bypassed.

And the most important thing: when planning horizontal rows, it is imperative to calculate how many whole tiles will fit in a vertical row and, if necessary, either slightly raise or lower the level of the first support row so that in the last, topmost row there are all whole tiles , and they fit exactly to the ceiling with a gap of 3-5 mm.

If this is not done, it may turn out that going up to the ceiling it will be found that it is necessary to put a strip in the very top row, for example, 2-4 cm. Cutting off such a strip is very difficult, and it will look bad at the top.

It is best to start the calculation from the top, immediately marking the location of the horizontal rows and not forgetting to take into account the distance equal to seam between rows. So, moving from top to bottom, we get the level at which the second horizontal (support) row will be located and the size of the first row, which will be trimmed.

Using this technique, the top, most prominent row is guaranteed to consist of whole uncut tiles, and all the trimming falls on the first row, located near the floor and unobtrusive.

After deciding on the location of the bottom line of the reference row, using the hydraulic level, we transfer this mark around the entire perimeter of the room. We connect our marks, draw the reference line of the horizon and fasten the supports that will support our row. It is very convenient to use a galvanized profile for installation as a support for the first row drywall sheets size 27 * 28 mm. It is very smooth, unlike wooden slats, is easy to attach to the wall and has a very low price.

When lining the walls with glazed ceramics in my bathroom, I tied myself to the level of the already installed bathtub.

This was due to the following considerations. Firstly, from this level, taking into account the size of the seams between the horizontal rows, I clearly approached the ceiling with a whole tile. Secondly, along the wall I have a drain sewage pipeØ 100 mm., Which prevents you from pushing off the floor. Thirdly, this row adjoins the bathroom very well and the issue of waterproofing the gap between the bathroom and the wall disappears. And, fourthly, behind the bathroom, I did not lay out the facing ceramics at all, which is also a kind of economy.

Of course, there is also a certain disadvantage - I had to make additional support for the second row from the bottom when laying it out. But, I figured that in comparison with the number of advantages that I get, I can make such a sacrifice.

Determining the location of the vertical rows

This operation must be done for each bathroom wall separately and be creative.

We calculate how many whole tiles fit in a horizontal row on the wall, taking into account the width of the joints. Most often it turns out that one tile will have to be cut. If you get a very narrow insert in the corner, then you can use the following techniques:

Move all rows and trim the tiles in one and the other corner so that they are the same width. In the photo below you can see how I solved this problem on my wall.

This technique will give the symmetry of the arrangement of elements in a row and, accordingly, the wall will look better. When using decorative elements, they will also be nice and symmetrical.

Position the vertical row to be trimmed where it will be least visible. For example, in a corner that is not conspicuous when entering the bathroom. Or in the corner where the shower stall will be.

Having solved the problem with the arrangement of vertical rows, we draw using a plumb line or level vertical lines in the corners where the whole tile does not require cutting.

Compliance with the drawn square formed by the lower reference line of the first laid horizontal row and 2 vertical lines in the corners will not allow the rows to deviate, both vertically and horizontally.

Having made clear markings on all walls of the room, you can start laying ceramics on the wall.

We lay the tiles on the wall

Step 1. On the support attached to the wall, we lay the first support row in accordance with our marking of the verticality of the rows. All tiles should be laid, except for the extreme ones in a row that require cutting. The horizontal position of the row is ensured by our support bar, the verticality of the element is controlled by means of a level, placing it vertically to the tiles being laid.

After laying 3-4 tiles, it is necessary to check the flatness of the row. We apply the level with an edge to the row, as in the photo below, and see how the tool adheres to the plane formed by the face layer. If a gap is visible somewhere, we achieve flatness by slightly adjusting the tiles located next to the gap and slightly protruding.

When laying, do not forget to insert seam crosses for uniform seam width in the vertical row.

Having laid the entire row of one wall, we finally check the verticality, horizontal and flatness of the row using a long level.

We mark out the outermost tiles in a horizontal row, cut them using their desired width and put them in place. The row is completely ready, go to next wall and repeat all operations. We do the same around the entire perimeter of the room. As a result, we get a reference horizontal row along the entire perimeter of the room as in the photo below.

Step 2. We move on to laying the next row. We start on either side (right or left edge) of our vertically drawn line.

We apply glue to the wall from the support row to a height slightly greater than the length of the tile. In width, you can capture 3 tiles at once.

We apply glue to the ceramic itself to be laid. Moreover, I apply the glue on the wall and on the ceramics in different directions, so that when the strips come into contact with the comb spatula, they form squares (see photo below).

We do not touch the extreme, trimmed tile, we will lay it last, after laying the entire row of the wall.

Place the element in place, aligning the vertical reference line and the end of the tile. We insert seam crosses between the lower support row and our tile to ensure a seam between the rows. We apply a level vertically to our first laid tile of the row, and set the verticality of the row. We get this picture.

On the left, a vertical reference line is visible, running parallel to the adjoining wall.

We lay out all the elements of the row, controlling the verticality, horizontal and flatness of the row with the help of the level. The plane must be controlled as along laid tiles row, and in the vertical direction, coordinating the laid row with the lower row.

In conclusion, as in the previous horizontal row, we lay the trimmed edge elements of the row.

We pass to the next wall, repeat all the procedures and close the row around the entire perimeter of the room.

Similarly, go to the next row, repeat all operations and reach the ceiling. Don't forget to invest decorative elements and borders, according to our tile layout plan.

Step 3. In conclusion, it remains to put the lowest horizontal row. We mark the length of the tiles and cut them. For convenience, I numbered all the places of the tiles along the entire perimeter and numbered the trimmed elements so as not to make mistakes when laying.

If necessary, we adjust and insert the element to the sewer pipes, hot and cold water outlets.

Tiling in the bathroom has its own distinctive features and the method of execution. In this article, we will look at the main points of this process and identify several important details and peculiarities in carrying out such renovation works.

How to lay the tiles in the bathroom depends on its size, the number of transitions and the screen in front of the bathroom.

So all the work will be done in several stages:

Making a plan	First you need to make calculations. To do this, we take measurements and choose a tile. She may be different sizes and it is necessary to choose the optimal one. After all, waste must be minimized.
Purchase of material	In this matter, one must take into account that in any case there will be waste. And this is at least 5%. Also, when buying, the instructions for the material should be studied. There are usage options. Also pay attention to the back of the tile. It shouldn't be porous.
Plane preparation	The plane must be flat. Attention: Treatment of the walls in the bathroom must be done before laying the tiles with antifungal compounds. If this disease occurs, then you will have to remove all the decoration. So prevention is a must in this case.
Cladding	How to lay tiles on the walls in the bathroom will be described below. But don't forget that you must have the entire tool. They will not only need to lay tiles, but also cut them.

Tiling on the walls in the bathroom is also creative. So you will have to immediately make up the pattern. The system of work will largely depend on this. Now let's take a closer look at how to lay tiles on the wall.

Preparatory work

Tiling on the bathroom wall begins with the preparation of the base plane. It is on it that the tiles will be glued in the future. It is necessary to make a special screen (as a rule, drywall is used as a material for manufacturing).

The initial steps are always the same. It is recommended to install a bathtub and connect it to the sewerage system. When installing, it is important to use a level so that it stands as level as possible, while not tilting towards the drain hole.

Attention: Modern varieties bathtubs are designed in such a way that they already have a special technological slope, it is for this reason that an additional slope is not required during installation, it must be located strictly horizontally.

The construction of the screen can be done in several ways.

Using bricks

To do this, you need to overlay the bath itself with material. It should be noted that the layout of the brick depends on its size (it can be carried out either only along the long side, or along the side and ends).

• Immediately before laying the masonry, it is recommended to mark the perimeter in such a way that the side of the bathroom protrudes outward, therefore, the brick partition will be located about a couple of centimeters deeper.
• It's not scary if the ledge is slightly larger, this will only add space for further process plastering (see). Work with a brick will be carried out according to the method of splitting it, since the material has standard dimensional characteristics.

Attention: In order for the splitting to take place accurately enough, it is better to use a grinder and diamond discs. Even the resulting debris can be used without much difficulty.

When performing masonry, it should be borne in mind that the upper rows are glued to the bath itself using special tile glue. If you create a blind screen, you should leave a small hole for the legs in the central part of the bath, this will make it possible to have close access to it in the future. The same is done in this case, this will significantly increase the adhesion of surfaces.

Using drywall

The cost of the material is not high, and you will get a flat surface. Then the laying of tiles in the bathroom can be done without any problems with your own hands. And it will take much less time, in contrast to the first option.

• First of all, apply the necessary marks using a level. It is enough to mark the vertical lines along the edges that fit snugly against the side of the bath and place some marks on the floor.
• Further, without haste, it is necessary to move the marking lines slightly inward, making it partially recessed. After the process of laying the tiles, you may notice that it will lose the ability to protrude. And it will be on the same level with the side.
• In order to correctly calculate the indentation, the dimensions of the materials used should be taken into account. When adding these indicators, the amount of the required indentation will be revealed.
• Next, attach the profile itself with dowels. The process of installing a CD profile begins with obtaining parts of the required length, after which it is inserted into an already fixed profile and fixed with several self-tapping screws. In order to avoid deflection, it is better to fix it with wood wedges-stops.
• The profile will be firmly held by gluing wedges to the side of the bathtub. The resulting frame at the final stage must be sheathed with drywall, do not forget to pre-treat the ends with a sealant, which will further repel moisture.

Note also that not only the above materials can be used to create a screen, foam blocks and sheets of plywood, which are distinguished by increased moisture resistance, are also perfect.

Cladding

The first step is to decide. Which tile will you use in the future. In most cases, the same option is used for decorating the screen as for finishing wall surfaces, however, the use of another variety also takes place. The subsequent process consists of several stages.

Surface preparation

In this case, you should adhere to several fairly important rules:

• When using bricks, you should purchase a light plaster, and after drying, apply a primer;
• If the work is carried out using drywall, then it is enough just to thoroughly prime it. In this case, it is better to choose a primer such that it has the ability to repel moisture;
• To carry out the process of gluing the mesh on the chipboard, use a special one, in this case, a small layer of tile adhesive must be applied over the mesh.

Defining a tile layout

In those cases when it is necessary to cut the tiles, it is better to lay the cut layer where they will be least noticeable.

Choosing a tile laying scheme

• Place the horizontal row at the very bottom, and it is better to start the implementation of the marking from the side of the bath.
• As for the vertical row of that tile. Which has undergone cutting, then its placement should be in the most inconspicuous corner.
• If, when calculating, it turns out that the gap is too small, then it is better to start laying out from the central part, then the corners will be closed with tiles of equal size.

Laying tiles

This process also has its own specific rules of action.

Let's consider the main ones in order:

• It is better to start the work directly with the preparation of the glue, as a rule, it is sold in the form of a powder, which is recommended to be diluted with water, taking into account the necessary proportions - they are indicated on the package itself;

Making a solution for laying tiles

• The resulting mass must be applied to the surface of the screen, and it is better if it is an area small size, on which several tiles will fit, this is due to the fact that the glue has the ability to dry relatively quickly, and the leveling process is best done with a spatula with teeth;
• The tile should be fastened only according to the previously made markings, and in order to clarify the correctness of its location, it is enough to slightly press on it;

Making markup

• The glue is applied not only to the wall, but also to the tiles. After that, it is applied and pressed tightly, excess solution is removed. First, the row is laid out on a dry floor and tried on. After all, everything should fit perfectly. If the element does not fit, it is adjusted using a tile cutter or grinder.
• To comply with the masonry, the seam is determined using plastic crosses. Then the seam will be uniform.

• The rest of the tiles are laid out in the same way;
• After the glue has completely dried (not earlier than two days), it is recommended to grind the seams so that the surface is as tight as possible. If necessary, the seams can be additionally treated with silicone sealant.

This kind of design makes it possible to create not only a harmonious, but also an impeccable bathroom interior. It should be noted that this finishing option helps to hide from others appearance pipes and the surface of your bath.

Special attention should be paid to the advice of specialists with considerable experience in this field of activity:

• The part under the bathtub can be detachable and created with magnets, especially since this will make it possible, if necessary, to remove it without much difficulty;
• Do not forget about the leg opening in the central part., moreover, in length it should not be more than 40 cm, and in height not exceed 15 cm.
• The screen must not be completely blank, since in the event of an emergency, you will have to completely disassemble the entire structure;
• For frame more suitable metallic profile characterized by increased strength;
• The resulting joint between the bathtub and the stove is recommended to be treated with a special grout or silicone.

The screen under the bathroom, decorated with tiles, is usually beautiful and neat. It not only makes it possible to isolate the unpleasant appearance of the part under the bathroom, but also significantly reduces the amount of time spent cleaning.

Now you know how to properly lay tiles on the wall in the bathroom and you can do everything yourself. Before doing the work, watch the video in this article and photos that will help you do everything as quickly and without errors.

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How to lay tiles in the bathroom with high quality and beauty: practical advice that will be useful to you

And again I greet you dear readers. Today I plan to talk about how to lay bathroom tiles correctly without making common mistakes.

The topic is of considerable interest, since the decoration of the bathroom premises imposes special requirements not only on the selection facing material, but also to the technology of its laying.

Features of laying ceramic tiles

The technology for laying ceramic cladding material depends on factors such as the type of surface to be finished (walls, floor, slopes, window sills, etc.) and the type of materials used for the rough finish of the working surface ( cement plaster, gypsum plaster, drywall, other board materials, floor screed, etc.).

In accordance with the type of surface to be finished, a floor or wall tiles, which differs in thickness, density and weight. For the floor, thick coatings with an anti-slip matte surface are selected, while such requirements are not imposed on wall cladding.

When buying an inexpensive tile, selectively check the degree of its evenness right in the store. To do this, we apply two tiles with their front surfaces to each other and see if there is an uneven gap between them. If the surface is uneven, it is not worth buying such material, since it will be difficult or impossible to bring out a flat surface.

By the way, the curvature of the front surface is a distinctive feature of domestically produced facing materials costing up to 300 rubles per 1 m².

In accordance with the type of base on which the laying will be performed, certain means for surface preparation are selected, as well as certain types of glue, which may differ in the degree of subsequent hydrophobicity and adhesion.

It is clear that I described the features of the selection of materials superficially. If necessary, write in the comments, and I will tell you more about this in a separate article.

Now let's go directly to the fact how to lay the tiles correctly so that they stand for a long time and do not fall off from moisture and temperature differences ... As an example, I will tell you about the most difficult case, namely, wall cladding.

Laying tiles on plasterboard walls

• After the reinforcing layer has dried, apply a thicker leveling layer of plaster;

• After drying, apply a layer of coating waterproofing on top of the plaster.

Facing works

After the preparatory work is over, it's time to learn how to start laying tiles correctly.

Before starting the facing work, we look at what the tiles are laid on. If the surface is not even enough, we level it and thus subsequently reduce the consumption of glue, the price of which is high. If the surface is crumbled, we strengthen it with primers or deep penetration impregnations.

As an example, I will tell you how to veneer a wall. the traditional way when materials are applied different color, as a rule, the bottom is darker, and the top is lighter, and a ceramic border is laid out between them - a frieze.

• To begin with, we determine at what level the border will pass in color and at this level we fix the initial bar - a metal profile with a shelf overhang of 1-1.5 cm;
• We prepare the glue (I will indicate the details of the preparation of the glue later in the recommendations for the instructions);
• Apply the glue with a notched trowel to the wall above the starting plank;

• We put a row of friezes on the glue;

When working with ceramic cladding materials, in no case forget about the expansion joint. The seam is maintained by means of plastic spacers - special crosses with a thickness of 1 mm and more. The larger the tiles used, the thicker the expansion joint must be.

• After the row of friezes has been laid, remove the remnants of the glue that has come out from the wall with an even spatula and let the border dry for an hour;

• After the row of the frieze has grabbed, put the tiles from the frieze to the ceiling;

• After finishing the cladding of the upper part of the wall, we revet the wall below the frieze;

• After the wall is completely finished, we wait for 24 hours until the glue dries, after which we fill the joints with grout.

• In order for the load on the surface to be lined to be small, use a tile of small thickness, as a rule, it is 7-8 mm.
• If the shape of a cheap tile is not an even rectangle, but a trapezoid, we proceed as follows. We open the package on one side, as shown in the photo and mark it with a pencil with a solid line.

In the course of laying, we make it so that on one tile the line is located upward, and on the next one from below, then the row of facing will be even.

• About 20 minutes before the start of installation, the wall surface is abundantly moistened with water from a spray bottle.
• To extend the life of the tiled surface, use hydrophobic silicone or epoxy grouts to fill the joints.

• The grout is applied with a rubber spatula, after which, after 3 minutes, it is leveled with a damp cloth or a damp rubber glove.
• When preparing tile glue, follow the manufacturer's instructions, namely, when mixing, pour the mixture into water, and not vice versa.
• During installation, we fix the tiles with glue making characteristic movements from side to side and, as it were, pressing.
• If the tile, for one reason or another, lay unevenly, you should not straighten it by moving it with effort, it is better to re-lay it on fresh glue.
• If too thick adhesive is used, we apply it not only to the surface to be tiled, but also to the back of the tile in order to ensure optimal adhesion.
• If the glue is prepared in accordance with the instructions of the dry mix manufacturers, then it is enough to apply it only to the wall and simply press the tile.
• Having finished the facing of one wall and proceeding to the facing of the second adjoining wall, we check the evenness of the masonry with a square so that there is an angle of 90 degrees between the walls.
• Before filling the joints with grout, remove the spacers.
• It is possible to fill the joints with grout only after the glue has dried - after about a day.
• Use ordinary grout on cement or gypsum base I do not recommend it, because high humidity mold may appear in the bathroom.
• In order not to use later silicone sealants, grout is applied not only in the seams on the wall, but also at the abutment to the ceiling and floor.

How to prepare tiles for laying over pipes

When conducting overhaul heating and water supply pipes are hidden in the wall, less often in the screed. In this case, in order to revet the vertical surfaces in the tile, special holes must be made into which the ends of the pipes can be brought out.

How to make such holes correctly? It turns out that there is nothing complicated about it. You will need an electric drill and a special nozzle - a cup, the inner diameter of which corresponds to the outer diameter of the pipe.

Drilling ceramic tiles with a cup - crown

The operating instructions are as follows:

• we determine where the pipe will pass and mark the center on the tile;
• in the drill chuck we fix the cup and drill at low speeds until a neat hole is obtained.

To work with ceramics, we purchase special cups that differ from their counterparts for working with wood by sharpening. In addition, we use an electric drill, not a perforator, since even a slight beating of the cup can lead to the formation of chips on the tile.

How to veneer slopes and a window sill

So, we know where to start wall cladding and perhaps we can lay the tiles on a vertical surface with our own hands. But, you need to remember that in the bathroom there are niches or vents that also need to be lined.

I propose to consider the technology of facing slopes and small window sills.

Let's consider the stages listed in the diagram in more detail:

To finish outer corners the tiled cladding looked more neat, a special plastic corner, which is installed at the junction of two planes located in relation to each other at an angle of 90 degrees.

In our case:

• we measure the sides of the window opening;

• according to the measurements made, we cut the corner on a miter saw or using a hacksaw for metal and a miter box;
• trying on the cut corners to the opening;

• if the prepared corners are suitable, using grout for tile joints, install them in place.

After the corners are installed, you will need to level the slope with putty.

Of course, you can do without alignment and put the tiles right away. But without additional alignment, more glue will go away.

In addition, due to the thick layer of glue, it will be more difficult to place the tiles in one plane, since when the solution dries, it will collapse or, on the contrary, protrude. The best option, in which installation guarantees best result, is a 3 mm thick layer of glue.

In order to level the slope, we make a template, as shown in the photo, taking into account the thickness of the tile and the thickness of the adhesive layer. Next, a leveling layer of putty or DSP is sketched and leveled using a pre-made template.

Do not try to perfectly smooth the leveling layer. The presence of shells and microrelief is permissible, since it will still be covered with glue and tiles.

After the leveling layer has completely dried, we measure the depth of the opening and use these measurements to cut the tile.

We cut the tile so that there is a stock that will go into the plastic corner. As a rule, 2-3 mm is sufficient for this.

We try on the cut fragments to the slope and, if everything fits, we put the tiles on the glue.

Immediately, I note that if the work is done carefully, the fragments of the tiles become almost close to the frame of the double-glazed window. As a result, the gap does not have to be sealed with silicone, it will be enough to press in the grout and the seam will look beautiful.

One more point when cutting tiles, keep in mind that future seams must match the seams on the wall.

So, we have decided on the peculiarities of facing the walls and openings, it remains to find out how to lay the tiles in the bathroom on the floor.

Features of laying on the floor

The laying of tiles in the bathroom on the floor differs from similar works on vertical surfaces by preparing the mounting base and the thickness of the materials used. For floor cladding, a special floor tiles with increased thickness and anti-slip coating.

Let's consider the stages listed in the diagram in more detail.

The first stage is the preparation of the mounting surface, and it is the quality of its implementation that determines how long the finishing resource will be. Execution instruction preparatory work next:

• We dismantle the old coating, if any;
• We remove construction waste and dust generated during the dismantling of the coating;
• We install the lighthouses on the base and pull out the cement-sand mixture (DSP) along them;
• On top of the DSP screed, a layer of coating waterproofing is applied;

• On top of the waterproofing layer, we apply deep penetration impregnations that enhance adhesion.

• We start finishing the floor only after the walls are tiled;
• We set the lighthouses according to the level of the wall cladding minus the thickness of the tiles and glue;

• To install the lighthouse on the level, you can use construction waste, such as pieces of drywall.

What to put on? Of course, on a pre-prepared screed

So, the screed dried out within a few days, which means it's time to find out where to start laying tiles on the floor?

We decide on which part of the bathroom will be the most noticeable from the entrance. As a rule, this is the wall along which the washbasin is located, since the bathtub is most often located along the other wall.

Before starting the installation, we check that there is a right angle between the overlapping walls. In our case, we check the availability right angle between the wall and the threshold line.

If, as in the photo, the angle is straight or almost straight, this will greatly simplify the installation. If the angle is not 90, but 80 or 100 degrees, the tiles will have to be cut. The way out in this situation will be not traditional, but diagonal laying of tiles in the bathroom.

We draw a line from which we will start laying along the wall. From the drawn line, mark the screed along the wall according to the number of tiles that will be laid taking into account the seams between them. Such markings are needed in order to start laying from the entrance to the opposite wall.

If the laying will be carried out according to the previously made markings, we will be able to approach the wall, and the last tile will lie exactly on the drawn line. If we start cladding without marking, we will get a skew, which on the last tile can be up to 5 mm.

After the marking is done, we dilute the glue and proceed with the installation.

If a comb (notched trowel) with a 5 mm tooth is used for wall cladding, then a comb with a tooth size of 8 or 10 mm is used for floor cladding.

We put glue on the surface of the screed and tighten it with a comb, which we lead at an angle of 45 degrees. The direction in which we drive the comb does not matter.

Laying the first tile is always a crucial moment

Many tilers use rubber mallets to tackle the corners to optimally position each cladding. I don't see any particular reason for using mallets, since when using correctly prepared glue, you can position the tile with your own hands without additional devices.

You can check the evenness of the laying by applying a flat rail to the surface. However, there is an easier way - to run your hand over the cladding. Believe me, the slightest rises and depressions will be noticeable to the touch.

Cheap ceramic tiles during installation can be moved for positioning for 10 minutes and no more. A good expensive cladding can be positioned within half an hour, that is, until the glue sets.

After the installation is completed, fill in the tile seam. The grout is used the same as when decorating the walls, but on the floor we choose dark color that will not get dirty so quickly.

Finally, I will answer a frequently asked question, namely, is it necessary to revet the screed under the bathroom if the floor is not visible all early? There are many opinions about this, but I think that better tiles put all over the floor.

• At first, cement strainer absorbs moisture and, on occasion, flooding of neighbors living on the floor below is not excluded. Ceramics are hydrophobic and moisture will remain on the floor surface;
• Secondly, the bathtub can be oval, round or other non-rectangular shape. As a result, leave the floor open to save money. finishing material it won't be easy.

Output

Now you have general idea on how to put ceramic tiles in the bathroom.

If you have any questions about the selection of facing material, glue and tools, write about this in the comments to the text. I will definitely answer all questions. By the way, I recommend watching the video in this article.

August 18, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

From the author: thank you for reading this text. We really hope that the presented materials will help you in the renovation of your apartment. Today we will talk about how to put tiles on the wall ourselves and illuminate others. important questions related to this topic.

For beginners in the repair and construction business, laying tiles is a rather complicated process. But, since laying tiles, as, indeed, everything else, can be learned, it will not be difficult for you to master this knowledge so that you can then successfully apply it in practice.

So let's get started.

Preparation

It all starts with preparation and this statement is especially true for the field of renovation work. Let's just say that in order to prepare the wall for laying tiles, you do not need any specific knowledge and skills. But still, this important point needs to be covered in our article.

If we are talking about a bathroom, then it all starts like this: we liquidate the old plumbing if you intend to change it. And even if they do not intend to, it should still be dismantled for ease of use.

Now we take a hammer with a chisel - and we begin to mercilessly knock down the old tiles. But if you want to make a real "tiled mess", moreover, and also speed up the work several times, - use a puncher. How to remove tiles from the wall - see the video below:

By the way, let me give you one piece of advice, but if you don't need old tiles in general condition - then just skip this paragraph. But if you intend to use it elsewhere, say, in the country house, on the balcony / loggia, on the veranda of a private house or somewhere else, then you can read the article on how to carefully remove the old tile from the wall, while without damaging it. The text is posted on our website and is available to everyone who wishes and those in need.

Well, in the process of work, do not forget about safety precautions, because sharp pieces of broken tiles falling from the wall can cause injury. In general, take care of yourself, because there is still a lot of work to do.

After the wall is cleaned of the old tile, you need to get rid of the remains of the mortar / glue that fixes the tile. To cope with this mission, we use the same tools.

Our goal is for the walls to be perfectly flat, and the corners (wall-floor; wall-wall; possibly wall-ceiling [if you do not intend to mount suspended structure]) - were straight, that is, - strictly 90 °.

How to align the walls? A very topical construction issue. If there is enough free space in your bathroom / kitchen (or wherever the action can unfold), then you can level the wall. There is also information about this on our website. Here we will only note that it is necessary to use exclusively moisture-resistant gypsum board for the bathroom and kitchen. You can easily distinguish it from the usual one: the color of its coating is green, not gray.

Subsequently, tiles can be glued to the drywall. But our article is not really about that now. We will not talk much about wall decoration with the help of gypsum board.

So, how do we make the surface of the wall even if we do not use gypsum board? At the beginning of the working process, we need to determine what quality the plaster of the walls is, if it falls off in places, then we will again have to wield a chisel / hammer / perforator to remove it from the wall. In this case, in this case, you will have to shoot to the very foundation so that you can see brickwork or a bare slab. Let's hope our walls are strong enough.

Now let's move on to measurements. First of all, we need a plumb line. This is a rope / cord with a weight attached to it. With its help, we determine the degree of the wall slope. It is quite simple to do this: you need to unwind the rope to the height of the room and fix one end of it under the very ceiling. If the slope exceeds 3 mm, then the walls will have to be leveled. Although, priming / puttying would have to be done in any case (with the exception of leveling the walls with gypsum board, there is a slightly different procedure).

Important! Keep in mind that if you lay the tiles on an uneven surface, this flaw will be very conspicuous after the completion of the work. The tile, in contrast, say, does not forgive such flaws, so the surface must be leveled without fail.

Now about the corners. Still, in the bathroom, the corners should be straight - strictly at 90 °. Especially in the place where the bathtub will be located. The fact is that otherwise, later you will have to look for an answer to the question: how to close the gap between the bathroom and the wall. But, as you know, The best way to solve a problem is to prevent the possibility of its occurrence.

After the corners are checked, you need to arrange the walls one more check: on the bulges and concavities, which are quite often present in old houses. Use a water level to check. By the way, the bathroom floor also needs to be checked - it must also be even, leveling the floors is a completely different matter.

Leveling the work surface

To properly align, we need the following items:

• wide and narrow spatulas;
• drill mixer;
• batch bucket plaster composition... It is better if it is metal, because plastic can crack under the blows of a mixer (in practice this happened);
• water level;
• tool for grouting the surface (construction float).

Now we will consider as many as two popular ways to level the surface of the walls (not counting the gypsum board).

Putty

Undoubtedly one of the most effective and inexpensive ways put the walls in order. Conduct comparative characteristics putty mixtures in this article are not necessary. But one of best brands under which these products are manufactured is the German company Knauf. It is not our goal to advertise this brand. We only give you the knowledge with which you can go to hardware store... If you like something else, no problem.

But be prepared for the fact that truly high-quality products cannot be too cheap.

Before proceeding with the putty of the walls, they must (!) Be treated with an antifungal composition (antiseptic) and a penetrating primer. The fact is that during humid environment very often, which not only gradually destroys Construction Materials, but also releases trace elements harmful to health into the air. By the way, the penetrating primer also has antiseptic properties, but its main purpose is that it promotes adhesion (strong adhesion) of the putty to the wall surface.

Now it's time to prepare the putty mass. The “recipe for cooking” can be expressed in a simple formula: 1 kg per 1 m² with a layer thickness of 1 mm, or, in other words, - (1 kg: 1 m²) × 1 mm. And yes, the filler should be prepared in exactly the amount that you intend to use immediately after mixing. The next day, the composition will already freeze, so it will be impossible to work with it.

The starting putty of the walls should be done in two layers, and between them, for better adhesion and prevention of microcracks, a masking net should be laid. This will not entail large material costs and will not take much time and effort, but it will ensure reliability, and, as we understand, this is fundamentally important for us.

Keep in mind that the wall should be aligned in all directions: not only from top to bottom, but also from left to right. How to do it? - very simple. It is necessary to apply layers of putty mass perpendicular to each other - that's all.

Keep in mind that the smaller the angle of inclination of the trowel, the thicker the layer of applied putty comes out. The composition applied to the wall dries in about a day at 18–20 ° C. To sand the surface and finally prepare it for tiling, this surface must be sanded with a construction float.

To clearly demonstrate the process, we have posted a video in our text:

Lighthouse plaster

Plastering the surface along the lighthouses is a little longer and more difficult than just puttingty. And resort to this way it is advisable if the walls are hopelessly crooked, and the use of gypsum boards for leveling is not possible, since there is too little space in your bathroom / kitchen.

To get started, we need:

• spatula / trowel;
• rule;
• drill mixer;
• batch bucket.

Here are the stages we have to go through in the process of work:

• we buy in the store ready mix(since cooking it yourself is quite difficult if you are not a pro in this matter). But if the work is done in a bathroom / shower or other room with high humidity, - a cement-sand mixture is suitable for us;
• we treat the surface with an antiseptic and a primer;
• install guide beacons. How to install beacons, see the video;

• We clean the beacons with a spatula in those places where they are fixed (before the influx). This is necessary in order for the ruler to walk on the smooth surface of the lighthouse and not encounter obstacles in its path, otherwise the surface will be uneven;
• coat the beacons on the sides. The fact is that the space between the lighthouse and the wall may remain unfilled with mortar, and allow such a development of events - pure water hack;
• we begin to throw the solution onto the wall with a spatula. This should be done from below. Thus, we throw in the solution to a height of about 50 cm;
• we put the rule to the guiding beacons, then with movements ↔ / we begin to tighten the mixture. The solution that remains on the rule should be removed with a spatula, and then thrown back onto the wall. The ↔ / movements should be performed several times, since the uncured mixture floats a little under the influence of gravity. Those pits that will inevitably remain after you have walked the rule over the lighthouses for the Nth time, we will safely coat after the composition has dried;
• in this way we process the entire surface;
• after about 30 minutes, you need to walk the rule over the lighthouses again in order to remove the influxes that inevitably form during the solidification process;
• now we are waiting for the mixture to dry (± 24 hours) - and at this the process of plastering along the beacons can be considered complete.

An important generalization

Regardless of which of the presented methods we aligned the walls, before laying tile they need to be primed for better adhesion of the tile adhesive and the work surface. Approximately five hours after priming (but not earlier), on surfaces that will be in contact with water, that is, the area near the bathtub, sink, as well as the lower part of the walls, must be covered with waterproofing mastic.

In places where pipes are inserted, the surface should be treated especially carefully. To waterproof gullies and pipe entries, after applying the first layer of waterproofing, apply a sealing collar and then apply a second layer of waterproofing compound.

To finish the corners, use a waterproof tape between the two layers of mastic, just like the sealing lip. Apply waterproofing mastic with a brush. For greater reliability, the mastic should be applied in two layers. In this case, before applying the second layer, you should wait for the first to dry. It shouldn't take more than three hours. Within a day, you can start styling.

Laying tiles on the wall is one of the most popular types finishing works for a bathroom or toilet. The surface of the tile is easy to maintain, does not lose its attractive appearance over time and, provided that the cladding is of high quality, subsequent repairs in the bathroom may be required after several decades. Little of given view finishing work can be done completely independently, if you first study how to properly lay tiles on the wall.

To work you will need tools:

• Tile cutter;
• Level;
• Roulette, marker, square;
• Marker thread;
• Small spatula and comb spatula;
• Rubber mallet;
• PVC crosses and matches;
• Masking tape;
• Edged board with a straight edge or unnecessary metal profile;
• Dowels and a regular hammer.

A laser level on a tripod will help to speed up and simplify the work. It differs from the usual level in that it can be installed motionlessly in the center of the room, and simultaneously create a projection with light rays at once on the entire area of ​​the walls.

Considering that wall cladding will be made ceramic tiles, and not the floor, in the process of work, you will need to drill and cut holes in the tiles of various diameters for sockets, switches and communication pipes. You can find out how to cut and drill ceramic tiles and what tools are needed for this from another article on our website.

Wall surface preparation

The most the best option, is considered preliminary plastering and profile beacons. A solution for plastering walls in a bathroom is made in proportions of 1 to 3 or 1 to 2.5. In rooms with less humidity, for example, in a hallway or kitchen, a solution is used for plastering in proportions of 1 to 4. After plastering, the surface of the walls is additionally treated with a penetrating primer that strengthens the upper cement-sand layer and increases the adhesion of the surface with tile adhesive.

Plaster surface preparation

Preparation of walls for tiles in a bathroom made of gypsum tongue-and-groove blocks should be carried out with the lowest possible air humidity. Or it is installed temporarily forced draft, or it is necessary to refuse to carry out such works in neighboring rooms as: plastering, floor screed, wallpapering. Since when doing these works the total air humidity in the apartment rises significantly.

Initially, they are thoroughly swept out of dust with a brush or broom. This is very important, otherwise crystallization forms on the surface of the walls - a glossy film, on the contrary, reduces or eliminates adhesion altogether. Further, the entire surface is primed with 1 layer of a penetrating primer, concrete primer or its analogue. When the penetrating primer is dry, a waterproofing layer is applied to the wall surface with a roller, for example Knauf Flechendicht or its equivalent. When the waterproofing layer is dry, the GWP walls can be considered ready for cladding.

Preparation of plasterboard surfaces

The seams between the drywall sheets are pasted over with a fiberglass tape mesh and putty with a moisture-resistant gypsum plaster fugenfüller-hydro putty. When the seams are dry, wipe the surface of the moisture-resistant drywall well with a piece of slightly damp cloth to remove dust from the surface. Further, the entire surface of the gypsum plasterboard is primed with a roller with a moisture-insulating primer, for example, aquastop. After the primer layer has dried on the entire surface of the gypsum plasterboard walls using construction stapler grab a fiberglass mesh with a mesh of 5-7 mm with metal brackets. On top of the mesh, the entire surface of the drywall is putty with tiled moisture-resistant glue.

The process of tiling prepared walls

In the center of the room, an optical level is installed on a tripod and adjusted so that it displays the projection of a horizontal beam on the wall surface. This horizontal beam is transferred to the very bottom of the wall and the highest point on the screed is found, in the area where the screed is connected to the wall. At this point, a tile is applied to the wall, after which the horizontal projection of the beam is raised to the level of the upper edge of the attached tile. At this height, it is necessary to mount to the wall strictly according to the beam projection edged board with smooth rib or unnecessary smooth metal profile.

Optical laser levels appeared not so long ago, and even today, not everyone has them on the farm. Without a level, before laying the tiles on the wall, markings are performed using a long bubble level - a spirit level. With a spirit level, you need to walk along the perimeter of the floor in the room and determine highest point where the transition between the wall and the floor is. From the screed along the wall, either the height of 1 tile is measured with a tape measure, or a tile is applied directly to the wall and a mark is made on the wall along the upper edge of the tile. Next, the level is leaned horizontally against the mark, it is set in a horizontal position and a solid line is drawn along the level, along which it will be necessary to mount an edged board on the wall with anchors in the future.

Before laying the tiles on the wall, a working adhesive is made. About 3-4 liters of water are poured into a container with high sides, for example, a basin or a wide bucket. Dry tile glue is slowly poured into the water so that it slightly covers poured water... Further, all the contents in the bucket are mixed until homogeneous using a mixing nozzle installed in the chuck of a powerful drill or perforator. Having received a homogeneous mass without lumps, it is left at rest for about 5-10 minutes, after which the tile adhesive is re-mixed with a mixer nozzle.

After mounting the board in the form of a board and making glue, they begin to directly glue the tiles to the wall. Initially, using a small spatula and a comb, the tile adhesive is applied to the wall surface from the board. Using a comb allows you to remove excess glue from the plane, while the same thickness is formed everywhere adhesive composition... In a similar way, a uniform layer of glue is applied and formed on the back of the tile.

Laying tiles on glue begins from the corner opposite from the entrance to the room on the wall. The tile attached to the glue is initially set straight on the nailed board, after which a level is applied to the tile vertically and, by slightly pressing or tapping on the tile with a rubber mallet, it is set in an even vertical position. After that, 1-2 more tiles are laid adjacent in a row, placing each on a vertical level and forming seams of the same thickness between the tiles using PVC crosses. Having laid out 3-4 tiles in a row on a board on the wall with your own hands, a level is applied horizontally to the surface of the entire tile with an edge, and, if necessary, a certain tile is brought with slight blows of a rubber mallet.

Having tiled the entire wall to the top with a whole tile according to the above scheme, the last row of tiles is cut to size with a tile cutter or a small angle grinder, so that the tile can be glued under the ceiling. At this stage, the tile joints are immediately cleaned from the glue with a knife. After that, it is necessary to pause for 1-2 days so that the glue between the tile and the wall grabs. After waiting a couple of days, the lower persistent edged board is dismantled from the wall. Before gluing the tiles of the lower row, you need to stock up on thin wood chips.

The technology for laying tiles on the wall in the lowest horizontal row is the same as for the previously produced cladding. The glue is applied and distributed on the wall and on the back of the tile with a comb, after which the tile applied to the wall is leveled and leveled. PVC crosses are placed in the seam between adjacent tiles. So that the tile from the bottom row does not slide down, wood chips are inserted under the lower edge of the tile, and the upper edge of the lower tile is temporarily fixed to the surface above the tile laid on the wall with paper masking tape.

A few days later, all unnecessary adhesive tape, wood chips and PVC crosses are removed from the lined wall and finally all seams are cleaned with a clerical knife. Cleaned no earlier than 7-8 days after laying the tiles, so that for some time the empty joints serve as a drain for humid air evaporating from the tile adhesive.