Indoor roses in pots. How to transplant a homemade rose? Preparing planters and land

Who can resist the charm of delicate rosebuds? Certainly not keen growers!

Therefore, every flower lover must have a rose in a pot in his home collection.

Very often, buying a rose turns out to be spontaneous. Indeed, they look very attractive in the store. Indoor roses are often given to women who love flowers.

In any case, if you purchased a rose or received it as a gift, our article will definitely come in handy.

How to keep a room rose after purchase

Rose is not an easy flower for home keeping, it is quite demanding and capricious. It is not enough to become the happy owner of this beauty, it is also necessary to save the flower and find an approach to it, otherwise the sad consequences will not be long in coming.

Yes exactly. The purchased plant usually looks fresh and full of energy, blooms amazingly and it seems that it will always be so.

In fact, the plants end up on the counter fed with all kinds of stimulants, in addition, they have a special packaging that preserves high humidity... Getting to our windowsill, roses are deprived of all this.

Almost immediately, inexperienced gardeners have problems: roses begin to turn yellow, their leaves dry and fly around, the buds fall off and turn black. The rosette orders to live long and disappears, leaving behind nothing but frustration.


It should be noted that the rose is considered a plant. open ground... Some varieties are more adapted for housing than others. But this does not mean that keeping them in an apartment is an easy matter.

By purchasing room rose, after the purchase, it is simply necessary to take a complex of rescue measures, even if the plant looks healthy and strong. Believe me, it won't be long!

So what are the steps to take when you brought the rose home:

  1. Remove the packing wrap, if present. Although the packaging helps to preserve moisture, but because of it, the rose is often affected by fungal diseases even in the store, because packaging interferes with air exchange, creating an ideal environment for fungi.
  2. Use pruning shears or scissors to remove any withered leaves, blackened or dried stems on the plant.
  3. Flowers and buds also need to be trimmed. Of course, for the sake of them we acquire a plant and we would like to admire them enough, but the plant, the flowering of which was stimulated by special preparations and greenhouse care, subsequently simply cannot withstand such an abundant flowering, and having given all its strength to it, dies. Therefore, we cut off all flowers and buds that are present on the plant, along with the bearing stem.
  4. Pay attention to the number of bushes in the pot. Indoor rose growers often plant several plants in one pot to create the appearance of a lush flowering bush... Crowded plants weaken each other, nutrients are lacking. Bushes, if there are several of them, must be planted in different pots.
  5. After transplanting, it is necessary to treat the rose with antifungal drugs (Fitosporin) and pest drugs (Fitoverm).

Transplanting a room rose

To transplant a rose, remove it from the previous pot along with an earthen ball. Assess the condition of the roots surrounding the earth.

If the roots are thin, like hair, brown or blackened, dry or rotten, then the plant is likely to die. You can make an attempt to save him: cut the cuttings and try to root them.

Healthy roots are bright white or yellowish in color and look quite dense, like a thin wire. If the roots have disappeared only partially, you need to remove all rotten and damaged ones, leaving healthy ones.

Pour expanded clay or other drainage at the bottom of the new pot.

It is better to buy a soil mixture ready for roses or garden. Do not take cheap soil, it contains a lot of peat and few useful substances. Better to choose a higher quality potting soil.

You can make a soil mixture yourself, taking: 1 part of humus + 1 part of leafy land + 1 part of coniferous land + 3 parts of sod land + 1 part of sand.

Cover the drainage with earth, compact a little. Place the rose bush with an earthen lump, cover with new earth, periodically compacting it so that the bush does not hang out in the pot, but is well fixed. Pour with settled or filtered water room temperature.

Treatment for diseases and pests is necessary. A pruned and transplanted plant is weakened and susceptible to disease, even if there was good care and there was no infection. Therefore, it is better to play it safe and process it.

Also, after transplanting, treatment with Epin is effective - it will strengthen the plant's immunity and reduce the stress from transplanting.

Spray your plant, it needs high humidity, especially in conditions of operating heating and dry air in the apartment. If the rose is very small and weak, then the pot can be covered with a bottle on top (with small holes), creating a greenhouse, and only then gradually accustom the rose to the apartment air.

Room rose care

Lighting

Rose is a light-loving plant. For her well-being, she needs a lot of light. South windows are very suitable for growing. On the rest of the world in winter time backlight is required.

Temperature

The optimum temperature for growing indoor roses is 18-25 degrees. Since the rose is an open field plant, she loves fresh air very much and she needs it for full growth. In the summertime, the rose can be taken out into the garden or onto the balcony. The rest of the time, you need to organize ventilation, while avoiding drafts that are harmful to roses.

Watering

A home rose is watered with settled water at room temperature. Cold water is bad for them. The rose will be grateful for regular spraying both in summer heat and in winter. heating season... If the rosette is near the battery, then it is better to put it in a pallet with wet expanded clay.

Fertilizers

The rosette is fed with complex fertilizers for roses from spring to winter once every 2-3 weeks, in the fall, gradually reducing the frequency of fertilizing.

Reproduction

Indoor rose is propagated by cuttings. For this, cuttings up to 15 cm long, with several buds, are suitable. They are rooted in the ground, covered with a bottle or bag on top. To do this, you can take small cups for seedlings.

The roots appear in about 2 weeks. The greenhouse can be gradually removed after the appearance of new leaves. Transplanting rooted cuttings is possible only when the root system is well developed.

Pruning

Roses periodically need pruning to form a bush. It is best produced in the spring. Branches that have lengthened over the winter, faded flowers, weak and dry branches are removed.

Diseases and pests of a room rose


Problems and solutions:

The rose dries

This problem occurs especially often in summer and winter. On hot days, the rose evaporates a lot of moisture, you need to closely monitor the moisture of the soil, not letting it dry out completely, and also spray it regularly. In winter, due heating appliances air humidity tends to zero, the plant begins to experience a moisture deficit.

The rosette dries up in the following cases:

  • the root system is damaged or dead and the rose cannot absorb moisture and nutrients
  • insufficient watering and humidity
  • very dry indoor air
  • the rose stands near the heaters

If you notice that the leaves of your rose have begun to dry, do not wait to continue, but take measures to save the flower. First of all, you need to check the soil in the pot, if it is dry, water it. It is also recommended to remove the plant from batteries central heating... Place the rose in a tray with damp expanded clay and spray more often. If the rose bush is small, you can cover it with a bag or bottle until the plant bounces back.

If the above measures do not help, remove the plant from the pot and see the condition of the roots. If they are dry and brittle, darkened, then the flower is threatened with death, and it remains only to take cuttings from it. Because if the roots of the plant have dried up due to rare watering, or for other reasons (sometimes they are already from the store) and died, then there is no way to restore them.

The leaves of the rose turn yellow

Why leaves can turn yellow:

  • excessive watering, the roots do not have enough air
  • soil poor in nutrients: there is not enough nitrogen, potassium, manganese, phosphorus
  • lack of iron (chlorosis)
  • putrefactive processes in the root system
  • pests

If your rose turns yellow, first of all pay attention to watering, if it is too frequent. In what form is potted soil? Does it not resemble a swamp? In this case, watering should be reduced, leave only spraying for a while.

If after the purchase you have not transplanted a rose, then do it urgently. The land in which they are sold is very poor in nutrients. Either the soil into which you transplanted the plant was not best quality, this also happens.

You can try to feed the rose with complex fertilizers for flowers, preferably especially for roses. Favorite fertilizers: Greenworld and Bona Forte for roses.

If feeding helps weakly and only for a while, then it is worth replanting the plant in a more nutritious soil. Do not transplant the rose into the ground from the garden.

If you find chlorosis in a rose - this is a characteristic yellowing of the leaves, then this indicates a lack of iron. Feed the rose with Iron Chelate or Ferrovit according to the instructions.


Chlorosis of a rose

If a rose long time flooded (perhaps this happened even in the store + fungus often joins from high humidity), then its root system could rot. If the roots look black or brown, they are easily choked with a finger, then they are rotten and cannot be restored. If some of the roots are healthy, then the rotten roots must be removed, the flower must be transplanted into a pot with good drainage and no longer poured.

Water the rose only with water at room temperature. Strongly cold water poorly dissolves nutrients that are contained in the earth and the plant does not receive them. It also promotes decay of roots, a decrease in plant immunity and increases the susceptibility to disease.

The rose darkens, withers, leaves fall

Falling leaves may be associated with dryness (see Rose dries above). If the leaves do not dry, but wither and fall off, then this may be for the following reasons:

  • the rose is frozen (draft, ventilation in winter, if the wind blew on it, etc.)
  • watering with cold water
  • fungal diseases
  • viral diseases
  • pests

Dark, sluggish leaves and shoots need to be cut. If the rose is frozen, then gradually it will go away by itself, dropping the frostbitten leaves.

How to recognize fungal diseases? Blackening or graying, covered with bloom, stems, all kinds of growths and plaques, spots on the leaves, "rust" of roses, powdery mildew are a sign of fungal diseases. From them we make treatment with Fitosporin according to the instructions.

How to recognize viral diseases? Changes in leaf color, mosaicism, deformation of the shape of the leaf plate are signs of a viral disease. Viral diseases are treated by removing damaged shoots and improving the conditions of the plant and increasing its immunity.

How to recognize a pest? Often, the consequences of the actions of malicious insects are visible visually. On the leaves there are either the pests themselves, they can be very small, multi-colored and transparent, but nevertheless if you look closely, you will see how they move, or traces of their vital activity - spots eaten away on the leaves, paths, black dots, cobwebs (in case of infection spider mite). In general, mites, aphids, thrips and other pests are very fond of a rose; in the summer, treatment with drugs against them is strictly required, even if you do not see them. In this case, we use Fitoverm according to the instructions.

Still, it is worth remembering that no matter how you try to create greenhouse conditions inside the apartment, the rose may not appreciate it, and it is best to plant it in the garden, where it will definitely feel at home.

Many indoor plant lovers prefer to have a rose among their pets. This is not prevented by the whimsicality of the plant, susceptibility to pests, difficulties in care. In addition to the beautiful bloom of the "queen of flowers", rose bushes create a unique style for a botanical corner.

Even a single indoor rose can elegantly decorate the window. Propagation of this plant by cuttings retains all the characteristics of the original species and enjoys an advantage over other methods.

What roses are bred and grown in the room

Indoor indoor roses come in a variety of colors. Miniature varieties usually have very slender bushes, exactly repeating the most beautiful tea and hybrid tea species.

There are a lot of varieties and types of roses. For indoor growing take compact plants, because the root system of a rose requires a lot of soil, does not like constraint.

Potted crops can be the following types of home or indoor roses.

  • Rosa Kordana - small size, lush, odorless.
  • Miniature roses.
  • Climbing roses - have elongated stems.
  • Shrub.

These are just some of the varieties that can be cut and grown at home. Do not force hybrid tea garden roses to grow in the room. They are almost do not lend themselves to grafting v indoor conditions... How to propagate roses?

Reproduction methods

The following methods of propagation of these flowers are known:

  • seeds, which is very time consuming and almost never practiced;
  • cutting roses is the most common and popular way;
  • layering, if the stems are long, climbing.

Also, a rose is grafted onto a rose hip, obtaining a copy of the desired variety. But this is no longer reproduction. And also the grafting is used exclusively in horticulture.

How to propagate roses by cuttings? Many species propagate by cuttings, but not always this simple task... Rose Cordana, for example, difficult to reproduce... And miniature varieties intended for rooms and interiors are easier to cut by cuttings.

Method of growing roots in water

This method is most suitable for miniature and dwarf roses. Green cuttings roses are propagated most often. These are annual shoots that have given buds. For the formation of roots in water, it is recommended to follow these rules.

Features of the method of growing roots

According to one of the opinions, when the roots appear, the rose is placed in the ground. This increases the chances of survival, and the plant itself does not weaken.

Other growers believe: the appearance of roots in miniature roses wait up to three weeks and grow them to a centimeter. They must branch out. They are planted in a container of 200 ml with holes for draining water.

Some take into account the phases of the moon and believe that landing should be done on a waxing moon. But in order to take this factor into account, you need the moon to shine through the window, giving the plant additional lighting.

That is, the windows should be south, on the north side it does not matter. In addition, waiting for the "correct" moon, you can miss the time for good landing, weaken the plant.

Very often, the first bloom of a rooted rose does not have to wait long, the bud appears soon. But it depends on the variety and other conditions.

Rooting cuttings

Breeding material - cuttings are obtained in the process of pruning indoor roses. If the rose grew on the street, but is small in size, suitable for indoor growing, branches can be taken from it.

But not every variety of garden roses will take root in indoor pot. Climbing rose considered suitable for rooting. And here is the teahouse garden rose almost does not give good results, maybe just a small percentage.

The most suitable shoots for rooting are received in spring and summer, with ripe buds or flowering. Long shoots are fine too. A prerequisite is the presence of kidneys. The length of the handle is up to 12 cm.

A knife or scissors for slicing is desirable disinfect alcohol or potassium permanganate. The cut is made under the kidney from below and above the kidney at a distance of up to 1 cm from above. The existing leaves are cut in half.

Rooting method in the ground

Cuttings are planted in the ground immediately after cutting. There are drugs that promote rooting. In the preparation "Kornevin" you need to dip the lower cut of the cutting. And from the means of "Epin" they make a solution in which the slices are kept for up to half a day.

Stalk immersed in the ground 1/3 and tamp the soil. Naturally, before harvesting the cuttings, containers with soil must be prepared. Each container is covered with a jar or a common greenhouse is made under the film.

The moisture in the greenhouse evaporates slowly. Therefore, you do not need to water every day. Favorable soil temperature - up to 25 degrees Celsius.

Roses are obligatory good lighting required... If it is impossible to put them on the windowsill, we make the backlight (daylight hours - 15 hours). Rooting period - up to 5 weeks. When the leaves begin to grow, then air can be supplied to the greenhouse, and then completely remove the film (jar).

If rooting was done in a common container, over time, roses seated one at a time... The distance between the roses should be about 5 cm. Being in the light, the roses should not be exposed to the scorching sun.

With the growth of the root system, a lump of earth is transferred to a large container. In a 500 ml container, a rose can live until next spring without transplanting. Normal care: watering, temperature conditions.

In the fall, they can stand on the veranda in cool conditions. In winter, you also need to keep them away from the heat of the battery. As the winter day begins to increase, the plants will respond with growth. In the first year, do not expect abundant flowering, since it occurs later with thorough rooting.

Rooting by air layers

If the culture of a compact (indoor) size has long stems associated with the variety - climbing, then it can be propagated by layering. It's over reliable way not life-threatening for the rooted branch.

Air layers can be rooted in any plant. And this is exactly what they do for reliability, if the cuttings are not enough. When propagating by layering, it is advisable to take a flowering branch.

Leaves are removed from the bottom and make longitudinal cuts with a sharp cutting object (razor or knife) on the bark. Then put a bag of sand in place of the cut. This soil needs to be moistened regularly for rooting.

After three weeks or less, root buds will begin to develop on the incised stem. With a darkening of the stem in the place of the cut and the absence of roots, the conclusion is drawn: rooting by layering did not work. It is necessary to cut this shoot above the spoiled place and plant it in the form of a cutting.

You can learn about successful rooting by the growth of new shoots. Necessary moisten the soil regularly avoiding excess moisture. Drying out is also unacceptable. The size of the pot is also important.

Soil and fertilizers... Ready-made soil for sale in a package for roses, which has all the necessary components. You can also make a soil from a mixture of sand and peat.

Sod sand - good composition soil for the further development of the plant. The substrate is prepared by taking light soil, adding to it twice as much turf, the same amount of peat and a little sand.

Humus is a good fertilizer for the rose. When new leaves appear on a rooted rose, you can make mineral fertilizers and organic.

Container size and greenhouse conditions

The opinions of florists differ. Some insist on the correspondence of the pot to the size of the plant and believe that the cuttings need a small capacity, no more than 200 ml.

Others say: the rose loves a large amount of soil and you can immediately take a larger pot. One way or another, the container should have a good drainage, drain holes.

After the roots take up all the space in a small pot, the rose must be transplanted directly with a clod of earth into a container. bigger size... If the pot is too large, there is a danger of uneven moisture, moisture stagnation, pests that spoil the roots.

When a single rose is rooted in a balcony box, other plants with similar climatic preferences can be planted there. It is quite possible to plant several cuttings of a rose in one box.

It is required to take into account that wind and draft are also harmful to the culture during rooting. For protection from wind, as well as for long-term preservation of moisture and creating the necessary climate use greenhouses... This is a plastic wrap covering a container or jar for each bush.

Dangers and pests

Spider mite is almost the most common reason plant diseases. Signs of infection - yellowing leaves, stuntedness... Sometimes home flower cannot be saved. Regular inspection of the foliage of the plant is required with back side as well as tops.

Although healthy appearance indoor plant speaks for itself, to deal with spider mite when it is detected, drugs are used, for example, Fitoverm, potash soap for spraying.

Mini roses are resistant to diseases, but sometimes they are affected - gray bloom on foliage. The result of the disease is yellow leaves. Aphids are also a pest that can infect a delicate plant.

And this happens in a weakened state caused by waterlogging of the soil, excess fertilizers. In order to avoid ticks, it is recommended from time to time spray bushes.

The emerging mold must be washed off the plant, as well as the entire window sill must be cleaned and allowed to dry. Good air circulation and ventilation are needed against mold.

A home rose garden doesn't just decorate a room and its window. With the help of this beautiful and harmoniously created plant, you can achieve a chic floral design for the illuminated area of ​​the interior.

If you have the skills, new plantings are made, even rooting roses from bouquets. Having for a start one indoor rose, over time you can acquire a whole plantation. Moreover, there are compact varieties of beautiful indoor roses.

Rose care provides seasonal pruning escapes on which to try rooting methods. If the cutting methods are different, then you should always divide the batch of cuttings into two and look for suitable rooting conditions using both methods. After all, the conditions for adaptation differ depending on the variety and other factors.

We all love to surround ourselves beautiful things... Decorative roses are an excellent option for interior decoration and are quite popular today.

Nevertheless, if you decide to purchase one of these roses, then first you need to figure out what kind of care a decorative rose in a pot needs.

How to care for a decorative rose?

All popular types of home roses are different large flowers, a variety of colors and a fairly strong pleasant smell. At proper care plants will delight you for at least six years.

It's simple - homemade roses are preferred:

  • The abundance of sunlight, and therefore it is better to plant them on windows that face south or east.
  • Nutrient soil. You can prepare it yourself by mixing turf soil, humus and sand in a 4: 4: 1 ratio.

Alternatively, you can purchase a ready-made soil designed specifically for home roses.

  • Moderate watering, preferably with infused water at room temperature. It is worth watering the plant after the soil in the pot is completely dry after the previous watering.
  • Periodic feeding. Enough twice a month during the period of active growth of the rose, as well as during its flowering.
  • Regular spraying. It is better to spend it in the evenings a couple of times a week. Cool boiled water is perfect for these purposes, in which you can periodically dissolve special fertilizers.

After buying a new rose

If you have a decorative rose in a pot, you need to take care of it from the very first days. As soon as you have acquired a new plant, do not rush to transplant it into a new pot, let the rose stand on the windowsill for several days and get used to the new atmosphere for it.

Please note that the new pot should be about 3 cm wider than the previous one and approximately 6 cm higher.

A brand new ceramic pot is best left in the water for a couple of hours. A pot that has been used before should be washed thoroughly, but without using soap.

We put drainage on the bottom of the pot, after which we fill in the soil and granules of special fertilizer. We water the rose in an old pot beforehand, take it out directly during transplantation. We set the plant with roots in a new pot and carefully sprinkle it with earth, compacting the soil. It is no longer necessary to water it again.

Immediately after transplanting, we put the rose in the shade and only the next day we rearrange the pot in the sun, where it will stand in the future.

You can start feeding the rose in about a month from the day of its transplant. You can both fertilize the soil under the rose and spray its leaves with a special solution. Feeding is carried out twice a month in evening time after watering.

In no case should you fertilize a diseased plant, as well as a plant that has recently been transplanted. It is also best to refrain from using fertilizers in rainy and cool weather.

Reproduction of indoor roses

Many who want to learn how to care for decorative rose in a pot, over time they also ask themselves the question of the reproduction of this plant ..

A decorative rose propagates in a room pot with the help of stem cuttings, and this process is best done in early spring. To do this, simply cut off a twig about 12 cm long with a sharp knife or scissors and with live leaves on it. Put the twig in clean water room temperature and within a couple of weeks you will notice that the cutting has taken root. Wait a little more until the roots branch out properly, then transplant the new plant into the soil.

Diseases of decorative roses

If you want to know how to care for a home decorative rose, you must remember that these are no less susceptible to various diseases... So, dry indoor air often causes pests to appear on roses.

If this happens, then you need to wash the plant in a soda solution. It is not at all difficult to prepare it - just dissolve two tablespoons of baking soda in a liter of water. During the procedure flower pot close plastic wrap... Repeat the process itself several times with an interval of 10 days until the leaves affected by the pest fall off.

Thus, it is not at all difficult to care for a decorative rose in a pot. But with a minimum of effort, you will get something really unique - beautiful and unpretentious. With proper care, the rose will delight you for a long time with its incomparable flowering, as well as its wonderful scent.

Homemade roses in pots are a miniature copy of the queen of the garden, but this does not make her less attractive. That is why a rose in a pot in recent times acts as an alternative to the traditional bouquet, and their photos can be found on the corresponding sites. And if the first weeks after the purchase (gift) of the rose, thanks to numerous fertilizers and stimulants, looks great, then in the future it will not be easy to maintain the attractiveness of this “living bouquet”. But if you try, then the reward is in the form of a bright blooming rose will be a worthy reward for your efforts.

Indoor rose: variety of species

Another argument in favor of the fact that indoor rose no worse than a bouquet, says the variety of the species:

  • Bengal rose is the most adapted for growing at home, the care is quite simple (when compared with other varieties), therefore, it is the most common. Flowering is long, it can last until the New Year, however, the plant will have to be additionally illuminated. In addition, the plant does not shed its foliage for the winter, continuing to delight with decorative greenery. Flowers - semi-double, medium-sized, shades of red (from bright red to dark red), almost always - without aroma. At home, the bush grows small, does not need pruning - only sick and weak branches are removed, after complete pruning, the plant will simply die
  • Chinese rose - it is important to understand that we are talking about a rose, and not about hibiscus, which we traditionally call the "Chinese rose", although in fact it has nothing to do with the pink family. Chinese rose- the smallest of all indoor species, the bush does not grow higher than 15 cm, the flowers are miniature, no more than 2 cm in diameter, while there are many species that differ in color (yellow, burgundy, red, orange and even silver shades), the type of flower and the presence of smell. The Chinese rose (most species) needs a cold wintering.

If we talk about home (apartment) growing conditions, then polyanthus roses are widely represented in them, it is easy to look after them, these flowers are not too capricious, plus they smell nice:

  • triumph - a fairly large rose, flowers - with bright red, pleasing with flowering from spring to the beginning of winter, can winter well on a cool windowsill
  • miniatures - a mini-bush, flowers - terry, white or pink in color, it winters well in the house, its reproduction is very easy to carry out by cuttings - the roots make their way 5-6 days after placing the cuttings in water
  • gloria is a medium-sized rose, it has very miniature flowers that, due to their unusual color, resemble embers. It looks very attractive, but at the same time it has absolutely no scent. For wintering, it must be taken out to separate place where the temperature does not exceed 10C
  • clotilde is a small bush that is abundantly covered double flowers with pleasant aroma... The peculiarity of the variety is that the flowers gradually change color, from light pink (as soon as the bud has blossomed) to white after a few days.

Home rose in a pot: care, transplant, reproduction

Caring for a room rose is very difficult, it is a very demanding and capricious plant for keeping at home. They start courting by choosing the right place:

  • illumination - there should be a lot of light, therefore a sunny window sill is suitable for a "blooming bouquet", and so that the flowers do not disappear with the onset of autumn, the flower will have to be additionally highlighted
  • want to grow home rose- do not allow the soil (pot) to overheat, therefore, placing the flower on the sunny side, the pot must be shaded, covering it from hot sunlight
  • no drafts - you may even need to install barriers or light fences around the rose

Watering

Regular, fairly abundant, care should not allow the earthen coma to dry out - which is especially important if you grow flowers on the bright south side. The main rule is that the rose does not tolerate cold water, so it should be watered only with settled water at room temperature.

Advice! After watering, after half an hour it is necessary to remove the water that has not been absorbed from the pan.

Transfer

Home roses are very sensitive to transplanting, due to the destruction of the earthy coma and damage to the root system, they can long time hurt and take root badly. Therefore, they are transplanted as needed, the main indicator that the rose has become cramped in the pot - the roots are visible in the drainage hole. The best time for transplant - the growing moon.

Advice! You should not rush to transplant a newly purchased rose, even if the store pot categorically does not fit into the interior - the rose must be given some time so that it can adapt to the new conditions.

To successfully grow a room rose, it is necessary not only to choose the right pot, but also to prepare it for planting. New pot should be 2-4 cm (no more) wider than the previous one and 5-7 - higher. If nothing has grown in a ceramic pot (this is especially important for unglazed ones) (it is absolutely new), then it must be soaked in warm water for 2 hours. If the pot has already been used and something has grown in it, then it is thoroughly washed in cold water thoroughly brushing with a stiff brush.

Top dressing

At home, fertilization of a home rose is carried out in two ways - root and foliar feeding. As a root top dressing, you can water it with a mullein (as an option, purchase a full-fledged mineral fertilizer), spending it during the active growing season 2 times a month, with the appearance of buds - even once a week. The rest of the time (period - summer-spring) feeding can be done once every 2-3 weeks, necessarily - after watering the plant. For spraying (foliar top dressing), special solutions are purchased, while its concentration must be made somewhat weaker than indicated in the instructions. In autumn and spring, when the care of the rose is minimal, feeding is stopped.

Cutting is the simplest and effective method to reproduce a room rose, it is carried out in May-September, choosing for the cuttings the middle part with a thin, faded branch, leaving only 2-4 buds on it.

Advice! For further reproduction to be successful, it is very important to make the first cut correctly. The lower cut is performed obliquely, choosing a place 1 cm below the kidney (the kidney itself should be directed upwards), the upper one is straight, 0.5 cm above the upper kidney.

Freshly cut cuttings must be immediately placed in water or wet sand, avoiding even short-term drying of the slices - this sharply reduces the survival rate. When using water for rooting, it should be remembered that the water that was poured for the first time cannot be changed, even if it turns green - you just need to add fresh water if it becomes less. Such care will ensure the earliest possible appearance of the roots.

When the roots reach 1-2 cm in length (photo 1), the cuttings can be planted, while the root collar is not buried, it should remain at the soil level. Especially carefully it is necessary to sprinkle the roots - they are very fragile and easily damaged. The stalk continues to grow in a bright place, but where the straight line does not fall sunlight... If the reproduction is carried out correctly, then in a couple of weeks the buds should start to grow.

Reproduction by cuttings allows not only to preserve varietal characteristics at home, but also to obtain a plant that is optimally adapted to the conditions of a particular room (apartment).

Pruning

Caring for a home rose must necessarily include pruning. If we neglect it, then next summer instead of bright bouquet you will have a sluggish, meager flowering plant... Pruning is best done when the moon is waxing, using a pruning shear or sharp knife... First of all, weak, diseased, small and intertwining branches are removed. On healthy branches, with mature wood, shoots with 5-6 eyes are left, on the weaker shoots - 3-4 eyes (photo 2).

Advice! After cutting, the roses are placed in a cool (10-12C) room where they spend the winter. After the first new leaves appear, the rose is returned to its usual place.

Having bought a young rose - a seedling with only one central trunk, you must not let it start blooming. To grow a healthy full-fledged rose at home, the first bud that appears must be removed, after that you need to find a well-developed bud on the trunk and pin the stem above it. It's okay - soon two shoots will appear in this place, and at the moment when buds begin to form on them, the operation must be repeated again. Only after you can grow third-order stems can the rose be allowed to bloom. It will take time, but you will end up with a properly growing, healthy and strong plant.

Indoor roses, like roses of other species, belong to the Rosaceae family. For growing in a residential or office environment, the so-called miniature and indoor roses are most suitable. They, in any case, are not as capricious as the others, and it is easier to endure life within four walls. But for successful cultivation there are certain rules and secrets. The main secret- bright diffused light and cool fresh air.

Rule # 1. No - overheating!

Indoor roses grow well at temperatures from 10 to 25 ° C, easily tolerate daily fluctuations and small frosts. They just can't stand overheating. Place them on a well-lit window and at the same time make sure that it is not too hot there. This requires regular airing and shading of the pot from hot sunlight. The soil in the pot should not be heated. Most the best way- west or east window. On the southern windowsill, additional difficulties arise: frequent watering due to the rapid drying of the soil, mandatory ventilation. And even if these conditions are met, the rose will suffer from overheating in summer period, shed buds and leaves, give a weak growth. The opened flowers will last only a couple of days. Therefore, the southern window will fit only at other times of the year. On the north window, you can water less often, do not be afraid of overheating, but here you cannot do without additional lighting.

Rule # 2. Abundant watering

Second important condition- regular abundant watering and frequent fertilizing. Drying out of the earthen coma is simply unacceptable: this can lead to the death of the plant. During active growth and especially flowering, watering should be abundant, but without stagnation of water in the pan. Approximately half an hour after watering, the unabsorbed water must be drained from the pan. Roses in small pots should be watered more often because the soil dries out faster. In sunny weather, watering is daily, in cloudy - a little less often, about once every two days, but it all depends on the specific conditions.

Rule # 3. Regular feeding

Roses are very demanding for feeding. This is due to almost continuous flowering which takes a lot of energy. Therefore, from early spring to autumn, roses are fed once a week with organic or mineral fertilizers, you can alternately. It is very convenient to use liquid flower fertilizers for this purpose, of which there are many on sale. In the spring, foliar dressing will also have a beneficial effect, 3-4 is enough with an interval of 10-12 days.

One more important point- air humidity. Many sources indicate that indoor roses need high humidity. But on personal experience I was convinced that the roses grow quite safely even without spraying. A couple of times a month they can take a shower to wash off the dust, and that's it. But high humidity and frequent spraying can contribute to the development of fungal diseases.

Care calendar

Now consider caring for a room rose throughout the year. Let's start with the awakening of the buds and the appearance of young shoots in early spring. They signal the end of dormancy and the beginning of an active growing season. This means that the time has come for feeding, pruning and placing on a sunny window (if the wintering took place in a separate cool room). The plant should be carefully fed with the solution. mineral fertilizers after spilling the soil clean water... If the rose has just been planted in fresh soil, then feeding is not needed yet. With the advent of young foliage, it will be possible to spend foliar feeding... The branches are pruned, which stimulates the rapid growth of young shoots, on which such desired flowers will form. Further care is to comply with the above rules.

With the onset of stable heat, it is advisable to send indoor roses to open air- to the balcony or loggia, to the garden. This has a very beneficial effect on the general condition of roses and contributes to a long and abundant flowering until the fall. If this is not possible, then you need to place them on the east or west window, where it is not so hot.

When the buds appear, the first two or three can be removed to further flowering it was more abundant. Fading roses must be cut off in time to the first leaf, so as not to weaken the plant by setting fruit. Moreover, it is better to cut it before the flowers bloom completely, before the stamens appear, and they will begin to shed the petals themselves. All fallen and yellowed leaves, drying branches should be removed immediately in order to avoid the appearance of diseases. Fading shoots are also cut periodically to stimulate further growth.

At the end of summer, attention should be paid to the fact that fertilizers for feeding do not contain nitrogen, since the plant is preparing for a dormant period. This period lasts from about mid-autumn to February. If summer roses were on fresh air, then around the end of August and the beginning of September they are brought into the room. At this time, fertilization is completely stopped, watering is gradually reduced and the plants are placed in a cool place with a temperature of up to + 10 ° C. In such conditions, the leaves begin to turn yellow and fall off, the plant enters a state of dormancy. After that, the pot with the rose should be placed in a cool place with a temperature of + 3 ... 6 ° C. In urban conditions, a glazed and insulated loggia is quite suitable, where in winter the air temperature does not drop below + 2 ... 4 ° С. After the leaves have fallen off, watering is almost completely stopped, only occasionally they are slightly moistened with an earthen lump, because the complete drying out of the soil can be disastrous. The stems are shortened, leaving stumps up to 10 cm in height with several buds.

In February, roses are transferred from a cool room to a warm one (+ 10 ... 12 ° С) for a gradual awakening. It is advisable to first transplant them into a fresh fertile soil... With the appearance of young leaves, the plants are placed on a well-lit windowsill in warm room... Now they need to be watered abundantly, fertilized, ventilated. And with the arrival of steady heat - again to fresh air.

If it is not possible to provide a cool wintering, then you will have to provide additional lighting and the coolest window sill (preferably not higher than 15 ° C). With this wintering option, you need to especially carefully monitor the condition of the roses, often spray, protect from hot air from heating devices. It is in dry warm conditions winter period most likely the appearance of a spider mite. Top dressing is carried out about once every 2-3 weeks with a weakly concentrated fertilizer solution. But if the winter has been successfully experienced, then in March the first buds will appear on the roses. As soon as the buds begin to grow at the end of winter, you need to prune the roses. 4-6 well-ripened branches are left on the plant, shortening them to 5-8 cm, so that each one has 3-5 buds. In this case, the upper bud should be directed not inside the future bush, but outward. After that, the plant is transplanted into fresh soil and left until young shoots appear.

When pruning roses, it should be remembered that it is enough to shorten miniature species by one third. But tall indoor roses are cut more radically, leaving several buds, as described above.

Reproduction

Planting indoor roses requires fertile, nutrient-rich soil. An approximate mixture is made up of humus, peat and sand in a ratio of 2: 2: 1. At the bottom of the pot is required good drainage... It is useful to add pieces to the soil charcoal and some potassium-rich wood ash.

Indoor roses propagate quite easily by cuttings. To do this, from May to September, cuttings are cut from ripe twigs. It is best to cut a stalk from the middle part of a thin, faded branch, leaving 2-4 buds on it. In this case, the lower cut is made oblique 1 cm below the kidney (the kidney should be directed upwards), and the upper cut is straight, 0.5 cm above the upper kidney. The cuttings are rooted in water or in a mixture of peat (or light soil) with sand.

Freshly cut cuttings are immediately placed in water or sand, because even short-term drying reduces rooting. Rooting in water has one interesting feature: the water poured for the first time cannot be changed, you can only add as it decreases in the jar. Even if it turns green, never pour it out! Oddly enough, cuttings root perfectly in this way! After regrowth of roots 1-2 cm long, the cuttings must be planted in the soil. The root collar is not buried; it remains at the soil level. The roots are very fragile, so they are very carefully placed and sprinkled with soil. After watering and lightly squeezing the ground, the pot with the handle is placed in a bright place protected from direct sunlight. After a couple of weeks, the buds start to grow. When rooting cuttings in the sand, they are buried 1 cm so that the bud sticks out a little on the surface, watered, squeezed around the sand and covered with glass or film. Place in a warm, bright place where the temperature does not drop below 18 ° C. Otherwise, the rooting rate drops sharply.

Hand-made propagation of indoor roses by cuttings allows you to get plants adapted specifically to the conditions of a given room, which further simplifies their cultivation. Indeed, in essence, a rose is a street plant, and for self-made seedlings, the problem of adaptation is no longer a problem.

Diseases and pests

Pests and diseases, unfortunately, do not bypass indoor roses. Aphids often settle on the tender tips. If there is not much of it, then you can simply collect the insects by hand. Otherwise, it is better to use special drugs, of which there are quite a lot on sale, for example, Intavir.

"Grandma's" methods such as soapy water or garlic, in my opinion, are not effective enough, in any case, I have given up on it long ago, having not received the desired result.

It is very difficult to prevent the appearance of spider mites, especially in the autumn-winter period. He just loves indoor roses no less than an amateur grower and is able to destroy a plant in a matter of days! And here certainly nothing will help, except for special preparations such as phytoverm, actellik, etc. But since it is always easier to prevent a disease than to cure, I can recommend twice a year to carry out preventive spraying of all domestic plants, for example, phytoverm or something similar.

Stagnation of humid air around roses and dampness lead to the occurrence of fungal diseases: powdery mildew, gray rot, rust and others. Against this, special fungicides such as topaz or foundation are used. Therefore, it is better to avoid thickened plantings, cut out faded shoots in a timely manner, water the roses without wetting the leaves, loosen the soil after watering, and regularly ventilate the room.

It should be remembered that the treatment of roses with any preparations is carried out outside living quarters, always in a place protected from sunlight. After processing, the roses are left there for about a day and only then are they brought back to the room.