Having “straight” hands, you can do most of the housework yourself. This category of work also includes installing a toilet. Knowing the sequence of actions, installation or replacement can be done with your own hands.
Installing a toilet with your own hands is a task of medium complexity
Types of toilets
In this article, we will consider not the flushing features or the shape of the bowl, but those design features that determine the list installation work.
By installation method
The toilet itself consists of a plumbing bowl and a flush cistern. The bowl can be floor-mounted or suspended. If the bowl is hanging, then the tank goes hidden installation- built into the wall. In the case of a floor-standing bowl, there are three options for mounting the tank: on a special shelf on the bowl (compact), separate, connected using a flexible hose, in an installation (hidden in the wall of the frame).
The advantage of a floor-standing toilet with a regular cistern- ease of installation. It can be installed without starting repairs. The disadvantage is that compared to a suspended one, it takes up more space and looks heavier. Accordingly, hanging models installation is complex - it is necessary to secure the supporting structure - installation - in the wall. Perhaps this is only during renovation.
Release to sewer
The choice of toilet for discharge into the sewer depends on the location of the sewer pipe. They happen:
If the pipe is in the floor, it would be optimal vertical outlet. If the outlet is in the floor, but is close to the wall, it is most convenient to have an oblique toilet. Horizontal option universal. Using a corrugated pipe, it can be connected to both the wall and the floor.
Installation of a toilet with a compact cistern (floor-standing version)
The store usually delivers separately the toilet bowl, cistern, drain device and a float. Before installing the toilet, everything except the float must be assembled.
What does a floor-standing toilet with a compact cistern consist of?
Assembly
The process begins with the installation of a drainage device. It goes to assembled form, you only need to install it in the hole in the bottom of the tank. A rubber gasket is placed between the drainage device and the tank.
On the reverse side, the plastic washer included in the kit is screwed onto the pipe. It is tightened by hand, then using a key, but very carefully, since it is easy to break the plastic. To prevent the drain device from spinning, it must be held with your hand.
The next step is to install the mounting screws on the tank. They are also included as standard. These are long thin screws made of galvanized or stainless steel. They are inserted into two small holes at the bottom of the tank, put on rubber gaskets, then washers, and only then screw on the nuts.
Before installing the tank on the toilet bowl, a gasket (included) is placed under the tank. To prevent odors from leaking out of the sewer, it must be “seated” with sealant. First we coat it on one side, place it on the toilet, coat it on the other, and place the tank.
We install the tank on the shelf of the bowl, passing the screws into the corresponding holes. We put washers and nuts on the screws from below and tighten them. At the same time, make sure that the tank is level.
Next, we install a float - a device for controlling the water level in the tank. There are two holes at the top of the tank. Here we insert the device into one of them. It is mounted on the side from which the water supply will be connected.
We wrap a little flax around the outlet pipe, coat it with plumbing paste, and install an angle (brass or stainless steel). Do not overtighten the connection, do not hammer it in; the pipe is made of plastic.
Installing a tee
Floor mounting
The toilet is almost assembled, it can be put back in place. The toilet is connected to the sewer using a corrugated adapter. It has rubber seals at the ends that fit tightly into the pipes and onto the toilet outlet.
If the sewer pipe is plastic, the corrugation is simply inserted until it stops. If the riser is cast iron, and not yet new, so that the smell does not seep through the microcracks, the pipe is cleaned to the metal, washed and dried. Dry pure metal A layer of sealant is applied around the circumference (a little more in the lower part), then the corrugation is inserted. To be more sure, you can also apply sealant to the outside of the joint.
In any case, in sewer pipe insert the corrugation.
The second end of the corrugation is put on the toilet outlet. This is the connection of the toilet to the sewer. It's so simple. There is just one caveat. So that it can be removed later, the corrugation outlet and the toilet bowl outlet are lubricated with soap soaked in water, and only then the bell is put on. If this is not done, removing the toilet without damaging the corrugation will be problematic. But you still have to drill holes for fasteners. It will be much more convenient to remove rather than try to move a partially fixed device.
Having put the corrugation on the outlet, we position the toilet the way it will stand. Having installed the lid on the tank, we check that there is room for it. Next, you need to sit down, check the comfort of use, and adjust the position if necessary. Then take a pencil or marker, insert it into the holes in the sole, and mark the places for installing the fasteners.
After removing the toilet, drill holes for dowels in the marked places. If the kit comes with plastic fasteners, do not use them - they will break in a few days. It is necessary to immediately install powerful dowels.
If the toilet is installed on tiles, to prevent them from cracking, it is better to cover the glazed surface. Take a self-tapping screw, mark it, and hit it with a hammer several times. This is called “kerning”. Then take a drill or hammer drill and drill the tiles, turning off the impact mode. Once the tiles have been passed through, you can turn on the perforation mode.
We put it in the holes plastic stoppers from dowels. They must be in the same plane with the floor. If there is a thicker edge, cut it off with a sharp knife.
We sweep the floor, removing dust in the area where the toilet is installed. We put it in place, insert dowels into the holes, and tighten them using the appropriate key. The bolts must be tightened alternately, first on one side, then on the other. Tighten until the toilet is secure and free of play.
The final touch is connecting to the water supply. Connect output water pipe with a tap installed on it with an angle on the tank, which was connected earlier. For this you need a flexible hose. There are union nuts (American) at its ends, so there will be no problems with fastening. We tighten well, but without fanaticism.
How to install a wall-hung toilet with installation
To install wall-hung toilets, the outlet of the sewer pipe must be located near the wall. The specific distance from the wall is indicated by the manufacturer, but it should be small - about 13-15 cm from the far edge. If the exit is from the floor, there is a solution - a special lining, with the help of which the drain is moved closer to the wall.
Installation wall hung toilet It begins with attaching the wall stops to the installation frame. They are attached in two at the top and bottom. With their help, the distance to the wall is adjusted, the frame is raised and launched.
The upper stops have the form of rods and are adjusted using a socket wrench and a screwdriver. The lower stops are more like plates; they are also adjusted with a socket wrench but with the head positioned on the side.
The assembled frame is placed against the wall, its center is positioned above the middle of the sewer outlet. The mark on the frame rises or falls to the height required by the manufacturer (there is a mark on the frame, also indicated in the passport, usually 1 meter).
Using a bubble level, the horizontal and vertical installation of the installation for a wall-hung toilet is checked.
Checking horizontality
By adjusting the height of the stops, an equal distance from the wall, specified by the manufacturer, is set. How to conveniently do this, look at the photo.
The exposed frame must be fixed to the wall. Mark them in appropriate places with a pencil or marker and drill holes. Plastic dowel bodies are installed in them. Most of the wall-hung toilets are imported, and they recommend sealing the dowel bodies with sealant. Some of the sealant is squeezed into the drilled hole and a dowel is inserted. Then, before installing the fastener itself, the sealant is applied to the plastic housing.
Connecting elements - pipes, couplings - can be installed in a fixed installation. They all come included and simply snap into place.
Next, metal rods are installed on which the toilet bowl will be supported. They are screwed into the corresponding sockets, and silicone seals are put on top (in the bottom photo these are two rods above the sewer outlet).
The sewer pipe extends to the required distance and is fixed in the specified position using a bracket. It covers the pipe from above and is inserted into the groove until it clicks.
Next, water is connected to the tank. Open the tank lid (it has latches), remove the plug on the side surface. Right or left - depends on where your water supply is. Insert into the opened hole corrugated pipe, the mating part is inserted from the inside, everything is connected using a union nut. It is necessary to tighten without using excessive force - it is plastic.
A tee is installed inside the tank, and a pipe (usually plastic) is connected to the desired outlet. This is done with the help of an adapter and an American one.
The hose from the tank is connected to the special inlet of the tee. It is flexible, in a metal braid. Tightened with a union nut.
Replace the cover. In principle, the installation for the toilet is installed. Now we need to close it. To do this, make a false wall from moisture-resistant plasterboard. It is recommended to use two sheets, but one is also possible. Drywall is attached to the installation frame and to the mounted profiles.
The toilet is placed on pins, its outlet goes into a plastic socket. The connection is sealed, additional measures not required. This completes the installation of the toilet.
The toilet has long become an integral feature of a comfortable apartment or house. Gone are the “latrines”. Nowadays, construction supermarkets and online stores offer a huge range of plumbing devices for purchase: traditional compact toilets, devices with hidden tanks, wall-hung, corner and even children's toilets. In principle, you can install any equipment yourself.
Do I need to install the toilet myself?
Of course, you can call a specialist from any service organization you like to install the toilet, be it Management Company or an office offering installation services on an outsourcing basis. However (at least for the most common toilet models), installing such equipment does not present any particular problems and is quite accessible after studying a short step-by-step instruction. In addition, understanding all the intricacies of installing toilets will help you monitor the work of the specialists involved and allow you to detect hidden defects and shortcomings in the services provided.
Types of toilets
In large supermarkets, display cases with toilets sometimes take up several tens of linear meters. However, with all the diversity of the range, almost all toilet designs are no different from each other. Modern toilet consists of several main parts.
- Actually bowls. She may be various shapes(with or without shelf), with different technologies water flush (direct or circular), with different designs of its attachment to load-bearing bases (floor, suspended or corner), with different additional features(for example, with a built-in bidet and even heating).
- Sewage from the toilet bowl, together with water from the flush tank, enters the sewer pipe, which can also connect the toilet bowl and the sewer line using various configurations of pipes and adapters.
- Water for flushing sewage accumulates in cistern. This device may also have various options installation (attached directly to the toilet bowl or placed in a hidden way behind decorative partitions).
Typically, plumbing fixtures come with installation and operating instructions. But, nevertheless, some important nuances installation of such equipment is not described in the documents.
If you are not installing plumbing equipment in a new building, then the first stage of your work will be dismantling the old equipment.
Removing the old toilet yourself
Dismantling work looks simpler than installing equipment, but during its implementation some rules must be followed.
Step 1. Thoroughly clean the toilet and surrounding area with disinfectants. You can use the cheapest ones, for example, chlorine-containing ones (“Whiteness”). Before starting work, put on protective gloves and possibly safety glasses. Prepare a basin and rags to remove excess water.
Step 2. Turn off the water in the tank. On single-lever shut-off valves, when closing the pipeline, the lever must be turned perpendicular to the pipe. Drain the remaining water from the toilet tank.
Step 3. Disconnect the water supply hose. Depending on the model of your equipment, the hose may approach the reservoir from the bottom, side, or top. Use an adjustable wrench or wrench.
Step 4. We unscrew the screws that secure the toilet to the floor. In old houses, the bolts may become stuck tightly, so that they will have to be cut off or even the toilet bowl may be broken. You may have to remove the toilet from its attachment to the cast iron sewer pipe. Be patient and use pliers. If you intend to leave the old tiles on the floor, then be very careful - sharp and heavy fragments of the toilet bowl and excessive force when unscrewing the bolts can damage the ceramics.
Step 5. If your old toilet is attached to a plastic sewer pipe, it will be very easy to dismantle it. Pull the toilet towards you and remove the toilet outlet from the sewer contact pipe.
Now you have access to the toilet installation location. Let's skip the installation plastic sewer(noting that the location of the inlet neck of the sewer pipe under the toilet must correspond to the toilet outlet pipe) we will proceed immediately to installing a new plumbing fixture.
How to install a compact toilet with your own hands
To install a standard compact toilet, consisting of a bowl and a cistern, we carry out the operations in the following sequence.
Step 1. We check the condition of the inlet pipe of the sewer pipe. If necessary, we clean it. To prevent the spread of odors, cover the neck with a rag or plastic wrap.
Step 2. We place the toilet on the floor. If there is some distance left from the toilet outlet pipe to the sewer neck, then measure it and buy a corrugated pipe of the appropriate size.
Step 3. The toilet may come with a “heel” - a soft lining under the base. If it is not there, then you can make the lining yourself, for example, from an unnecessary piece of thin linoleum, cutting it along the contour of the base.
Step 4. We carefully place the compact toilet in its future location, check the symmetry of the location relative to the walls, the distance to the furniture, and to the outlet neck of the sewer pipeline.
Step 5. We mark on the floor the location of the contour of the base of the compact toilet and the location of future holes in the floor for mounting screws.
Step 6. Move the compact toilet to the side and begin drilling holes.
- In the event that you have already laid on the floor tile , then her upper layer drilled with a specialized drill without perforation. Next, the hole is deepened with an impact drill.
- If the toilet is installed on wooden surface – holes are formed with a regular drill on wood.
- If you have it in your toilet linoleum, then the hole can be cut into it until it has a solid overlap with a sharp knife.
Step 7. We install dowels into the drilled holes.
Step 8. We place the toilet base on the seat and screw the screws into the dowels. The perimeter of the toilet base can be treated with sealant to prevent moisture penetration.
Step 9. We remove the rag or polyethylene plug from the neck of the sewer pipeline and connect the toilet outlet and the sewer. The junction of the corrugated hose and the sewer pipe is also treated with sealant.
Connecting the tank to the compact toilet
There are models of compact toilets in which the flush cistern is a separate element. In order to install the tank, you must perform the following operations.
Step 1. Select bolts for securing the drain tank. It is possible that the bolts that come with the equipment are not protected from corrosion, so it is better to use bolts with an anti-corrosion coating (galvanized) or made of stainless steel. There should also be at least two sealing washers per bolt. We twist the entire structure. Sealing washers will also protect the toilet's ceramics from being damaged by bolts.
Step 2. We connect the flexible underwater hose. First, the fixing nuts are applied and tightened by hand, and then with a wrench or adjustable wrench. We insert silicone sealing gaskets or use fum tape between the tank pipe and the hose and between the hose and the water supply outlet.
Important! After completing the installation of the toilet and cistern, wait about six hours for the sealant on the floor to completely harden.
Installing a toilet with a hidden cistern
The most common on the market following types hidden cisterns for toilets: mounted or attached. Depending on the model, select installation instructions.
Installing a hidden cistern for an attached toilet
- We install the toilet on the floor as described above.
- We install a drain tank in the prepared niche. Usually it is bolted on, like in a regular compact toilet.
- We install a frame for a decorative wall. Usually this metallic profile, on which sheets of drywall are fixed. The top of the gypsum board is covered with tiles.
When installing plasterboard sheets, we provide a hole for the outlet of the flush control system. When installing a barrel with a fixed button, carefully calculate the distance from the tank body to the surface of the future decorative wall. Typically, such dimensions are indicated in the instruction drawing. Besides, in decorative wall It is necessary to provide an inspection hole for servicing the hidden tank. - We display the control panel on the wall surface and finish the decorative wall.
Installing a wall-hung toilet with a hidden bull
Installing such a design gives you an advantageous chance to remodel the bathroom space and use its space more efficiently. Installation of a wall-hung toilet with a hidden cistern is carried out with the creation additional wall, which will hide all engineering communications. We proceed in the following sequence.
Step 1. We are creating a project for the future bathroom. The hidden tank has a certain thickness, which must be taken into account when designing new wall. It may have a control system (button), which is either directly attached to the tank body or carried out some distance.
In addition, when designing the load-bearing structures of the future wall, it is also necessary to provide for the creation of a power frame that will support the wall-hung toilet. You can't get by with subtlety here. aluminum profile which is used for installation plasterboard partitions. The load-bearing structure is welded from metal corner. But usually metal structure for hanging the toilet is already included with the equipment. This finished metal structure is called an installation. The fonts on which the toilet will subsequently be mounted are attached to it.
Step 2. After drawing up the project, we begin welding work to form a support frame and build a frame from a profile under a plasterboard wall, or install a ready-made frame. The frame must have voids for installation of sewer pipes.
Step 3. We lay sewer pipes, bringing the inlet neck to the level of the outlet pipe of the wall-hung toilet. Do not forget that sewer pipes must have a certain slope during installation.
Step 4. We place a hidden tank in the space behind the future wall. We connect it with a pipe for drain water toilet. If the drain control button is located directly on the tank, make sure that its outer vertical surface extends beyond the level of the future decorative cladding plasterboard wall. We connect the supply hose to the drain tank. Then we “roughly” connect the wall-hung toilet and the hidden tank, putting on and fixing the toilet on the pins and connecting the pipelines for water delivery and drainage. Do not forget to check the functionality of the entire structure and the strength of its fastening before covering the frame with plasterboard.
Step 5. Remove the wall-hung toilet from the pins. We mount plasterboard sheets. Usually they are simply screwed with countersunk screws to the profile. We form a hole for the tank drain control button. We make holes for the toilet mounting fonts, for the water supply pipe and for draining sewage into the sewer. The gaps between the sheets of drywall are filled with putty. To facilitate the formation of holes, the wall-hung toilet comes with a special template, which shows all the main contours.
Step 6.At the final stage of work, a finishing coating, for example, tiles, is laid on the walls.
Prices for a toilet with a hidden cistern
toilet with hidden cistern concealed cistern
Mounting a toilet on a pedestal
As stated above, toilets have different outlet pipe configurations. With a horizontal or inclined toilet outlet, the receiving sewer pipe is mounted at the same level as the base of the toilet bowl, its inlet pipe is directed horizontally or inclined upward.
However, there are also models of toilets with direct release. In them, the exhaust pipe is directed vertically downwards. Due to this configuration, the sewer inlet pipe must be lower than the base of the toilet. This design of sewer networks is not available in all houses. But what if you like this toilet model more than others?
There is a solution - installing the toilet on a pedestal (this elevation can also be called a podium). A number of works need to be completed.
- Lay the sewer inlet pipe. Depending on what its slope will be before entering the collector or another pipe, the height of the pedestal and, accordingly, the level of the toilet base are calculated.
- After obtaining the required dimensions, we proceed to the construction of the pedestal. It must be installed on a solid, preferably concrete base. However, the inlet pipe of a toilet of this design can be located in the gap between the finished and rough wooden floor. When placing a toilet with direct outlet on wooden base, sewer networks must be laid before the finished floor is laid.
- On a concrete base, the pedestal can be built from bricks. Form a rectangle with a hole for the inlet of the sewer inlet pipe. Bricks can be laid out directly in a row, next to each other, filling everything inner space pedestal, leaving a niche for the sewer pipeline.
- The top of the brick pedestal is plastered and covered with a finishing coating, for example, tiles.
- Next, we do it with direct outlet in the same way as described in the section about installing a regular floor-standing toilet.
Installing a corner toilet
There are models of toilets that are installed in a corner. It differs from the classic floor-mounted or wall-mounted one only in that its cistern has a rear wall in the shape of a triangle. It is due to this configuration that the structure can be installed in a corner.
The technology for installing a corner toilet is, in principle, no different from installing a “straight” toilet of the appropriate design. The only thing that can cause some difficulty when installing a corner toilet is connecting the receiving sewer pipe. It must be installed in such a way as to ensure drainage Wastewater, possibly with a turn of the pipeline.
In addition, the design of flush-mounted toilets with a straight back wall also allows them to be installed in a corner. To do this, a wall is mounted in the corner of the room diagonally at the corner, behind which a hidden hanging tank is installed. This design can be located either at an angle of 45 degrees to the walls, forming an isosceles triangle, or at other angles, shaping the toilet space according to your wishes.
To learn more about the technologies self-installation toilet, watch the instructional video.
Video - DIY toilet installation
Comfortable living in any home cannot be imagined without a comfortable bathroom. The main element in it is the toilet. However, if it does not function very well, inconvenience will occur. To provide comfortable use this plumbing fixture it must be assembled correctly. The most difficult part is its tank. To a person who has not assembled it with his own hands, it may seem complicated. But that's not true. Let's look at how to install a tank on a toilet, assemble its mechanism and put it into operation.
Device and principle of operation
In the current level of competition, manufacturers are trying to offer the consumer maximum choice. This also applies to tanks. The differences will be in the material used, quality of implementation, and price. In order to understand how to adjust a toilet tank or install a new one, you first need to understand its structure.
The basic work will be the same for everyone. The differences will be in the design of the tank. They may be as follows:
- One operating mode – one button;
- Equipped with a dual-mode operation mechanism - two buttons.
A tank with one button means the entire volume of water is released at once. The presence of two buttons and 2 operating modes provides significant water savings. They allow you to drain only half the volume when draining. With this design there are two buttons. The large one will drain all the water, and the small one will drain partly.
The water discharge process can also be performed in different ways. Here, the methods of transmitting force to the valve that closes the drain hole differ.
The liquid flushing pattern may vary.
- Direct flush. The water from the tank drains directly into the toilet. Does not change direction of movement.
- Reverse flush. During flushing, the liquid changes direction of movement. It is more efficient, but noisier.
If you know the structure of the cistern, then you can easily figure out how to fix the toilet cistern. Let's now look at the operating principle and structural elements. There are two phases of work:
- Recruitment process required quantity water;
- Direct flush.
The design of the drain tank will be similar to a regular hydraulic valve. The main elements are the locking element, the float and the lever system. By pressing a button, we act on levers. They lift the lock that closes the drain hole. As a result, water is supplied to the toilet flush sink.
WITH external structure it's simple. It has only 3 elements - a tank, a lid, and a drain button. It's more difficult to deal with internal part. It includes the following:
- Float valve. Controls the presence and level of water. It includes a float and its lever. The faucet body contains gaskets, a piston, and a union nut for connecting the water supply hose.
- Pear. Rubber element that covers the drain hole.
- Drain fittings. Transfers force from the button to the pear.
In order to understand how to assemble the tank, you need to understand the principle of operation of the drain mechanism. He's next. When a button is pressed, a system of levers transmits movement to a rubber valve (bulb). It rises, freeing the passage of water down. The water level is falling. At the same time, the float lowers, opening the water supply tap. The container is filled to a certain level. The float is understood and the tap closes.
For smooth and smooth operation during installation, it is necessary to adjust and fix the float in a suitable position. Finding out the required position is easy.
- More water is supplied than required. Lower the float lower.
- A lack of water indicates the need to raise the float.
Types of installation of waste cisterns
If you need to figure out how to fix a toilet tank, this is one event. If you are considering installing new equipment, then you should definitely know that there are 3 types of installation of drain tanks.
- Tank on the shelf. Behind the drain bowl there is a shelf designed for installation. It is on this that the container is mounted. The process of draining the liquid is carried out with a button.
- Separate. It is located on top of the wall. Connected by a pipe. Draining occurs after exposure to the rope or chain.
- Built-in. The entire structure is called an installation. Combines with hanging sanitary ware. The toilet bowl is mounted on the wall surface. Drain container hiding behind it in the wall. The liquid is drained by a button located on the wall.
Installation of the tank on a shelf
Now this is the most common layout option. Here the container is installed on the toilet itself through a special gasket.
The process should begin with the rubber cuff lining. This gasket must be selected as best as possible. Its service life depends on its quality. If you use low-quality rubber, after some time it will dry out and water will penetrate.
Please pay attention! The gasket must be made of elastic rubber or a similar material. If purchased separately, check that the shape is correct.
The surface of the shelf should not have any defects. After installation, the cuff should fit as tightly as possible into the opening of the shelf and the tank. In order to eliminate the possibility of leakage, it is advisable to treat the cuffs with a layer of sealant. This will also help keep the elastic in place during installation.
Then pay attention to the side openings of the tank. Check that they match correctly with those on the shelf. They are necessary for installing the mounting bolts. They must also have sealing gaskets.
The holes must be aligned and the bolts inserted. Using a suitable open-end wrench, carefully tighten them. Don't forget to install gaskets on both sides. If you miss installing them, you may end up with a split or leak.
After fixing the container, you can begin installing the drain fittings. The whole process is shown in the image. detailed instructions assembly instructions should also be included in the attached instructions.
Please pay attention! The connected water supply hose must also have a rubber gasket. In its absence, leaks will occur.
After securing all elements of the drain mechanism, water can be supplied. Check the water supply process immediately. If in doubt, adjust the float valve.
Installation of a separate tank
First, you will need to measure the height of the tank mounting. Here it is necessary to relate the height of the fastening to the fastening of the lower end of the pipe. The pipe can be metal or plastic. Diameter – 32 mm. It connects to the cistern and toilet.
After marking the height, prepare the holes using a suitable power tool. If the kit does not include special fasteners, fix it using dowels. However, it will be more convenient to use special brackets. They can be purchased separately.
Before installation on the wall, assemble the drain fittings. The sequence is the same as in the previous case. Be sure to follow the factory instructions.
Next, fix the container at the required height. By using rubber seals connect the pipe. You supply water to the tank. Check the system for leaks. If there are no leaks and the water level is correct, you can start using it.
Built-in tank - installation
This option in Lately gained great popularity. This is explained by the opportunity to reduce the occupied space in the bathroom.
The design of this option is seriously different from the traditional ones described above. Polymer materials are used in production High Quality. For installation, special metal frames. It is installed on the wall and will subsequently be covered with finishing materials. The flush toilet bowl is also attached there.
This option will definitely have all the elements included. Therefore, you don’t have to worry about choosing the right parts. However, such a design will differ significantly in price. It’s worth considering the need to spend extra money.
The installation procedure must be carried out in accordance with the factory instructions. However, we can highlight the basic principles of installation. They can be divided into several stages. They are executed sequentially.
- Fastening the frame. The main condition will be to ensure accurate verticality. Be sure to check everything with a level. The requirement is due to the best functionality.
- The frame is fixed to the floor and wall using dowels. There is an installation method without a frame. However, in such a case, you will have to build a brick base. It's too labor intensive.
- Before starting work, it is necessary to install sewer and water pipes.
- If the model has a metered water supply mechanism, it should be installed near the tank.
- To avoid condensation, you can insulate the tank. Use suitable materials.
- Upon completion of installation of the tank elements, mechanisms and communications, a sheet of plasterboard is attached. He will cover everything. You should have two bolts facing out. They will be needed to hang the toilet bowl. There should also be holes for draining water into the sewer and draining liquid from the tank.
- There will also be a drain button located outside. It can be separate or with a decorative panel.
- During operation, each connection should be checked for leaks.
Please note that the button will have two keys. This is a two-mode operating principle. Adjusting the volume of drained liquid. One will drain 6 liters. The second is 9. Helps significantly save water.
As you can see, the assembly process is not complicated. If you need to figure out how to disassemble the toilet tank, you can simply do everything in reverse order. Anyone can do the job and there is no need to call a plumber.
By understanding the technology for installing a toilet, you can save on plumbing services and get the job done to the highest possible quality. The toilet can be mounted traditional way or more modern method- with installation. In the second case, the cistern will be hidden in the wall, which will have a positive effect on the interior of the room.
You are provided with instructions for completing each of the listed installation options.
| H | h | h1 | L | l | l1 | B | b | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| With a solid cast shelf, mm | 370 and 400 | 320 and 350 | 150 | Not less than 605 (by agreement between the consumer and the manufacturer, it is allowed to manufacture toilets with a length of 575 mm) | 330 | 435 | 340 and 360 | 260 |
| Without solid cast shelf, mm | 370 and 400 | 320 and 350 | 150 | 460 | 330 | 435 | 340 and 360 | 260 |
| Children's | 335 | 285 | 130 | 405 | 280 | 380 | 290 | 210 |
Set for work
- Hammer.
- Roulette.
- Adjustable wrench.
- Fan pipe.
- Flexible hose.
- FUM tape.
- Fasteners.
- Sealant.
In the case of installing a toilet on an installation, the listed list will be expanded with the corresponding set. Everything you need can be purchased at any plumbing store.
Removing the old toilet
First step . Turn off the water supply and drain all the liquid.
Second step. We unscrew the hose through which the tank is connected to the water supply.
Third step. Unscrew the tank fasteners. If they are rusty, we arm ourselves with a screwdriver or open-end wrench. We press the bolt head with the selected tool and unscrew the nut using an adjustable wrench. If that doesn’t work, pre-soak the nut with kerosene. We remove the tank.
Fourth step. We dismantle the toilet mountings.
Fifth step. Disconnect the toilet flush from the sewer.
In older buildings, drains are usually secured using cement coating. To destroy it we use a hammer and chisel. We need to crack the cement and carefully rock the toilet to the sides. The drain should turn and become loose. We tilt the product, allowing the remaining water to drain into the sewer.
If the toilet had an outlet to the floor, you need to clean off the wax ring Sixth step. We close the sewer hole with a wooden or other suitable plug.
Important! Sewage gases do not have the most pleasant smell. However, they are poisonous and flammable. Be sure to take this point into account as you work.
Getting ready for installation
The base for installing the toilet must be level. There are several options for the development of events, namely:
- if the floor is tiled and does not have differences in level, we do not carry out any preliminary measures to level the base;
- If the floor is tiled and is not level, we install the toilet using choppers. To do this, holes are drilled in the floor, the choppers are driven into them at a level, and then the toilet is attached to the choppers using screws;
- if it is planned to replace the tiles, dismantle the old cladding and fill in a new screed if the old one has differences in level;
- if the toilet is installed in a new house or apartment without any finishing, fill in the screed and lay the tiles.
We pay attention to the pipes. The sewer line is cleared of debris and various deposits; we install a tap on the water supply line (if it was missing before) to shut off the water supply to the tank.
Installation procedure for a regular toilet
As a rule, when selling, the toilet and cistern are disconnected. The internal fittings of the barrel are most often already assembled, which greatly simplifies the installation process.
First step. We put the toilet bowl in its place and make marks at the attachment points.
Markings on the floor for fasteners Second step. We remove the toilet and drill mounting holes in the marked places.
Third step. We hammer the dowels into the mounting holes.
Fourth step. Install the bowl. We insert the fasteners through special sealing gaskets. Tighten the fastenings. You should not pull too hard - you can damage either the fastenings or even the toilet itself. We pull until the sanitary ware is firmly attached to the surface. We close the fasteners with plugs on top.
Fifth step. We install the cover and seat. A manual for assembling them usually comes with the toilet, so we won’t dwell on this event separately.
Sixth step. We connect the toilet to the sewer. The procedure depends on how exactly the toilet outlet is connected.
Video - Installing a Compact toilet with a wall outlet
Prices for components for toilets and urinals
Accessories for toilets and urinals
If the release is made into the wall, we work like this:
If a floor outlet is being installed, do the following:
Helpful advice! If the toilet connection is drain pipe is performed using corrugation; in most cases, sealing can be abandoned, because the design of such an adapter hose itself is capable of providing a fairly tight fit.
Seventh step. We are installing the tank. Drain mechanisms, as a rule, are sold already assembled. If the mechanism is disassembled, reassemble it according to the manufacturer's instructions (the assembly procedure may vary slightly for different models).
We take the gasket from the kit and install it in the water opening in our toilet. Place the tank on the gasket and tighten the bolts.
The most convenient way to install fasteners is as follows:
Eighth step. We connect the tank to the water supply using a flexible hose. We turn on the water supply and check the quality of the system. If it leaks somewhere, tighten the nuts a little. We adjust the level of filling the tank with water by moving the float lower or higher.
Let the tank fill several times and drain the water. If everything is fine, we accept the toilet for permanent use.
Modern version installations. A special wall installation is used in which the tank mechanism is hidden. As a result, only the toilet bowl and flush button remain visible.
We install a wall-mounted toilet on the installation
Video - How to install a wall-hung toilet on a Geberit Doufix installation
The first stage is installation of the frame
We install a metal frame with fasteners. We attach the tank to the frame. The position of the frame is adjustable using brackets at the top and screws at the bottom. The frames are sold separately, have the same structure and are suitable for use in combination with any toilet bowls.
The assembled structure will have a height of about 1.3-1.4 m. The width should exceed the width of the tank.
Second stage - hanging the tank
The installation is carried out in compliance with the following recommendations:
- Place the drain button at approximately a meter distance from the floor;
- between the fastening points we maintain a step equal to the distance between the lugs of our toilet;
- the drain pipe should be located at a height of about 220-230 mm;
- We hang the wall-mounted toilet at a distance of 400-430 mm from the floor. These are average values. In general, focus on the growth of future users;
- between the cistern and the wall we maintain no more than 15 mm distance.
The third stage – we install the finished installation
We first check the evenness of the wall using a plumb line. If deviations are detected, do the following:
Stage four - install the tank
First we connect the tank. The drain can have top and side outlets. Almost everything modern models tanks allow you to choose between these two options.
Important! When installing a toilet on an installation, it is better to refrain from connecting the tank using a flexible hose. will last much longer than a hose. In the near future, will you want to destroy the frame casing in order to replace such a hose in five minutes? That's it!
The best way to connect is to use plastic pipes. All necessary fasteners are usually included with the tank. Separately, you only have to buy a panel for the drain buttons, and that’s not always the case.
We connect the outlet of our toilet to the sewer. The most convenient way to do this is with corrugation. We check the tightness of the structure. If everything is fine, turn off the water, temporarily disconnect the toilet from the flush and move the bowl to the side.
Important! The procedure for connecting the tank to the toilet and water supply may vary depending on the product model. We clarify these points separately and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Fifth stage – covering the installation
To do this, we use moisture-resistant plasterboard with a thickness of 10 mm. It is recommended to fasten it in a double layer. First we do the following:
- screw the pins into the frame for hanging the toilet (included in the kit);
- We close the drain holes with plugs (also included in the kit) so that they do not become clogged with dust and debris;
- We make holes in the drywall for pins, pipes and a drain button.
We attach the sheathing sheets to the frame using special self-tapping screws. Keep the fastening pitch at 30-40 cm. The structure will be small in size and weight, so there are no strict recommendations regarding the distance between fasteners.
We cover the drywall with tiles or finish it in another way at our discretion.
Helpful advice! Before tiling the box, we install a plug and cuff at the future location of the drain button. Usually they are included in the kit.
Video - Installing a wall-hung toilet
Stage six - installing the toilet
To do this, we connect the outlet of the bowl to the sewer hole and hang the product on pins (we installed them at the previous stages of work). These steps can be performed in reverse order, whichever is more convenient for you. Tighten the fastening nuts.
Important! The tile that will come into contact with the surface must first be coated with a layer of silicone sealant (a gasket can be installed instead).
You can turn on the water supply and use the toilet for its intended purpose.
The installation instructions remain the same. Only the order of installation of the toilet bowl changes. Work in the following order.
First step. Keep your knee position firmly in place. Metal fasteners will help you with this.
Second step. Treat the toilet outlet with technical ointment.
Third step. Place the toilet in its designated place. Trace the outline of the plumbing product and mark the holes for the fasteners.
Fourth step. Remove the toilet and install the mounting brackets from the kit according to the markings.
Fifth step. Install the bowl, press its outlet into fan pipe and secure the plumbing product using bolts or other fasteners included in the kit.
Sixth step. Connect the tank to the drain. Installation and connection of this element is carried out in the same way as in the case of installation wall model toilet.
Seventh step. We insert the drain button into a pre-prepared hole in the casing, turn on the water supply and check the operation of the toilet. If everything is normal, we accept the product for permanent use.
Read our new article - and also find out what types there are, how to choose and install.
Video - Installing an attached toilet with a hidden cistern
Good luck!
Video - DIY toilet installation
Installing a toilet yourself is not very difficult if you understand some of the details of how the system works. Before installing a new unit, the technician will have to dismantle the old one. It is also necessary to select a new toilet with a tank so that the set fits well in the bathroom. In this article we will talk about how to install a toilet with your own hands on tiles (tiles), and also demonstrate a video tutorial on installation.
Choosing a toilet
Before installation, you need to select the desired kit. Today, all the leading brands in the plumbing market produce a lot of lines various toilets and a bidet. In order not to get confused in such a variety of models, you need to approach the purchase intelligently.
- Material. First of all, you need to pay attention to the material from which the toilet is made. In stores you can find models made of sanitary ware, porcelain, cast iron and other materials. It is noted that best characteristics It is the porcelain that is different. It is easy to clean and does not absorb odors, which is important for such an item as a toilet. Many people purchase inexpensive sanitaryware. This material is still very popular, but it is not the best. Sanitaryware is porous, it perfectly absorbs odors, which are not so easy to get rid of.
- Price. The cost of toilets today ranges from within wide limits. It is not recommended to buy very cheap units, because they can cause a lot of trouble later. Poor-quality ceramics and components will force the owner to overpay the technician for system repairs in the future. At the same time, you should not buy too expensive units. It hardly makes sense to purchase a luxurious toilet with a golden leg for an ordinary city apartment.
- Model. The lineup toilets are very wide. When buying a unit, you need to be guided by the size of the bathroom. If it is very small, then you can purchase a wall-hung toilet with a built-in flush system. This will save extra space. These toilets are very compact and look great. In large bathrooms, toilets with bidets will look good.
- Tank design. Tanks can have a horizontal, vertical or inclined flush system. When choosing a kit, you must pay attention to this detail. The choice of flushing system depends on which one is functioning in the owner’s home.
Removing an old toilet
Dismantling the old unit occurs in several stages.
If the toilet is very old, then it is literally “grown” to the base. In this case, its dismantling will create some difficulties.
- First you need to disinfect the toilet with bleach.
- Next, you should be well equipped for the job. It is necessary to protect your hands and eyes from water and ceramic fragments.
- It is necessary to turn off the water.
- The remaining water is drained from the tank.
- When everything is prepared, we need to start dismantling. First of all, the bolts that secure the toilet to the floor are removed. If the system is relatively new, then you just need to unscrew the bolts, remove them, and then disconnect the plastic tube from sewer system. Then the pipe that serves to supply water is disconnected. After this, the toilet can be detached from the base.
Many people wonder how to properly install a toilet. First you need to properly prepare the place for the new unit.
- The floor in the toilet is cleared of various debris and leftover materials.
- The sewer hole and water supply system are covered.
- In the place where the old toilet stood, you need to mark for the dowels.
- The holes must be drilled with a diamond drill.
- In the store you need to buy a set of screws and dowels for installing the toilet.
Basically, all toilets are installed the same way. The only differences can be in various additional options. Installation itself simple toilet and the most complex ones are still built on one principle.
- First, the toilet is connected to sewer hole. Having removed the temporary plug from the system, you need to put the unit in place and screw it to the floor.
- It is better to process the screwing points in advance silicone sealant.
- Now you need to tighten the bolts on the heel of the unit.
- After this, the corrugated sleeve is installed. Before installation, it must be properly treated with silicone sealant.
- The final stage is the installation of the tank. Correct installation of the toilet cistern is the key to ensuring that the system will work without failures. The tank is secured with bolts. After this, a hose supplying water is installed.
Not the most difficult thing. The main problem most often occurs when adjusting the float. Installing a float valve requires care. When choosing a tank, you need to check which valve is included.
The float valve is responsible for regulating the water pressure.
The lower the valve is installed, the lower the water flow. It is necessary to ensure that during installation the water level does not reach the drain hole by 5 mm.
Video
The toilet installation process is discussed in detail in the following video:
You can find additional video about toilet installation in our video section:
We have already discussed above general principle toilet installation. Now we invite you to familiarize yourself with the intricacies of installing a toilet on tiles. It is immediately worth noting that there are 2 methods:
- Open.
- Closed.
But before you start work, you should prepare necessary tool and material:
- perforator;
- Screwdriver Set;
- adjustable wrench;
- level;
- drill;
- drill:
- rubber spatula;
- core;
- hammer;
- silicone
This fastening method will require less time and labor. However, as for the aesthetic side, they are significantly inferior private method installation So, the first thing you need to do is determine the installation location.
The installed toilet should not interfere with other plumbing fixtures. It should be easy to access.
Marks are placed on the selected location on the tile. Holes will be installed at these locations. You should also draw the outline of the toilet seat. Next, carefully set the toilet aside and drill holes in the marked places, the diameter of which should be equal to the fastening element.
The drilling process is quite painstaking. You need to be careful not to let the glaze on the tile peel off too much. Therefore, first drill with a drill without impact and at low speeds. Also, as an option, you can use a core. Due to this, the drill will not slide over the tile and scratch its surface.
Then take a tile drill bit and drill a hole. After this, you will need a concrete drill. The depth of the hole must correspond to the length of the dowel. Now clean the hole from dust and fill it with sealant. In this case, the sealant will prevent dust and moisture from entering under installed toilet. After this, insert the dowel.
Immediately before installing the toilet, also apply sealant in a wide strip to the drawn contour. This will completely prevent moisture from getting under the base of the toilet. Then came the last stage of installation:
- Carefully install the toilet on the tiles.
- Insert a self-tapping screw into the holes and screw it into the dowel.
- Special plugs are put on the mount, which will give general appearance more aesthetic appearance. Moreover, the plugs will protect the mount from moisture.
- Further, under the weight of its weight, excess silicone will appear.
- Before the silicone hardens, it must be removed with a rubber spatula.
Just as in the first case, outline the outline of the toilet on the floor, and also mark the locations of the holes. Before attaching the toilet, it is necessary to make outlet holes. The toilet itself is connected to the water and sewer pipes.
If heated floor technology is installed under the tiles in the bathroom/toilet, then the use of this type of fastening is prohibited. The toilet is installed using silicone, liquid nails, epoxy resin with hardeners. But in this case, it is first necessary to degrease the tiles and the toilet base. You should also treat the surface with sandpaper, giving it a slight roughness. This will provide better grip.
Wall-hung toilet
Another toilet design is wall-hung. Installation requires more work. As in the previous case, there are two methods for installing a wall-hung toilet:
- For installation.
Therefore, it would be wise to consider these two technologies separately.
Installation on a concrete base
Some people refuse to buy a steel frame to install the toilet. In this case, the concrete monolithic base will be no worse, and even exceed it in strength. With this installation, rods are protruded from the base onto which the toilet is attached. In addition to holding the toilet, the concrete structure also serves another role. It contains a coupling for draining water.
The installation process has the following sequence:
- Installation of drain coupling.
- Determining the installation height of the toilet.
- Preparation of panels for formwork. Their size should be 50 mm larger from overall size designs.
- Accurate measurements between mounting holes. Typically, it is 200 mm. But depending on the model, the distance may be different.
- For formwork you can use chipboard, OSB or board.
- Installation and measurement of rod length. It is very important to take into account the following dimensions: thickness of the recess + distance from the toilet to the main wall (meaning the thickness of the poured concrete structure) + thickness of the toilet at the mounting location + length of the free end for tightening the nut.
Before making a hole, do a preliminary fitting. Hold the toilet bowl and bring it to the mounting location. If the holes match the marks and the bowl itself is installed in the middle, then you can continue installation work. If you notice some deviations or the holes are not level, take the measurements again.
Now we invite you to follow step by step the installation of a toilet on a monolithic concrete base:
- First, the formwork is installed.
- But first, two holes are drilled in the wall to install the rods that will later hold the toilet. It is enough to make a recess in the wall up to 150 mm deep.
- After clearing the hole of dust, pour glue into it and install threaded rods into it.
- Next you need to set up 3 shields. 2 side and one central, in which 2 holes should be made for mounting rods.
- Shields are installed strictly vertically. Also make sure that the rods extend horizontally through the shield.
- The shields are connected to each other with self-tapping screws. And for greater strength, you can screw the nuts onto the rods and use them to press the shield to the wall. To do this, it is recommended to place a washer.
- In the place where the water should drain from the tank, fix the foam.
- Also install a Ø110 mm sewer drain pipe. This pipe will eventually be filled with concrete. Therefore, check the quality of its connection on the rubber seals.
- At the next stage, concreting is carried out using cement, sand and crushed stone mixed with water.
- During this process, it is recommended to protect the ends of the rod from contact with concrete. To do this, put a bag on them or wrap them with a rag.
- When pouring concrete, it is necessary to achieve sufficient density. Especially in the corners of the structure. To do this, use a stick to pierce the poured concrete until “cement laitance” flows out of the cracks of the formwork.
- When the concrete has hardened, carefully dismantle the formwork.
- After this, the drain barrel is connected. Take PVC corrugation Ø40 mm. Insert one end into the recess of the toilet bowl. It is recommended to secure the corrugation with silicone sealant. Be sure to let it dry and only then continue working.
- Next, place the toilet bowl with the corrugation attached onto the mounting rods. Use a plastic washer and nut to secure.
- Finally, connect the hanging cistern to the toilet using a corrugation and test the drain.
- By installing the toilet lid, you can operate the toilet.
Now we invite you to familiarize yourself with the technology of installing a toilet on an installation. To do this, you should buy a toilet with a special metal frame. It is this that will need to be installed in the wall, and the toilet bowl will be attached to it.
- The steel frame is installed strictly vertically. It can be fixed to the wall and floor through special holes. Before you carry out major fastenings, check it for evenness.
- It is necessary to supply sewerage and water supply pipes to this place.
- You should also set the height of the toilet. It will depend on the height of the apartment owner. Typically, the height of the bowl is fixed in the range of 400–430 mm.
- As for the water supply to the tank, it is better to make it rigid. During installation work, the valve in the water supply tank must be closed.
- Next, the toilet is connected to the sewer. The connection occurs using corrugation. At this stage the drainage system should be tested. Therefore, you securely fasten the toilet to the frame, having previously connected it to the sewer pipe. Next, drain the water. If everything is sealed, then turn off the water in the tank and disconnect the toilet.
- Now you can cover the installation. You can use drywall for this. Attach the profile to the wall and screw drywall to it. At the same time, make holes for the sewer, fastening rods, and holes for the tank.
- At the next stage, perform cladding ceramic tiles or other finishing material.
- After all these manipulations, the toilet bowl is installed.
The quality of installation of a wall-hung toilet completely depends on the correct installation of the frame. Therefore, perform this stage of work extremely carefully.
Some problems
Sometimes, after a couple of years of service, the toilet loses its original appearance. Traces of rust appear on it. This happens due to low-quality components of the tank. It is almost impossible to eliminate an old phenomenon of this type, especially if the unit is made of sanitary ware. When purchasing toilets, you must carefully monitor the quality of all components.
Water may damage the unit. The quality of water, as a rule, does not meet the standards to which units of Western brands are developed.
Sometimes the plastic elements in the tank design do not hold up. They can bend due to temperature changes or mechanical stress. If the tank fails prematurely, this indicates that the quality of the kit was not very high to begin with.
Problems with water flow often indicate that the float valve is not installed correctly. You need to adjust it, and the water consumption will be reduced.
To ensure that the toilet retains its original appearance long years, it is necessary to constantly keep it clean. To care for it you can use whole line funds. For example, to avoid having to constantly wash and clean the inner surface, various gels and tablets are used today.
Of course, you can’t do without a thorough cleaning. Cleaning liquids will help with this.
Some substances should not be poured into the toilet. These include acetone and solvents that can damage the sewer pipe. Also, do not pour hot boiling water into the toilet, because this can cause the sanitaryware to crack. If there is a need to rinse the unit, it is better to use two buckets of hot water.
Baking soda and vinegar are indispensable tools for cleaning your toilet. If red stripes begin to appear on the surface of the unit, they can be eliminated using a solution of vinegar in hot water. Baking soda will gently and carefully clean the surface of dirt.
For severe contamination, use special solutions. They usually contain hydrochloric acid. There are different types of contaminants, so the range of cleaning products is also very wide. When purchasing, you need to clarify whether a specific composition is suitable for the product. They differ not only in the nature of the impact, but are also produced for toilets made of certain materials.
