Do-it-yourself comfortable mini-steam room in a private home or country house: step-by-step technology for arrangement. Technology for creating a mini sauna for a dacha How to make a sauna in a dacha

Few things can be identical to the pleasure of steaming in your own bathhouse at the dacha after a hard day at work. It is the bathhouse that allows you not only to acquire the purity of your body, but also to relax emotionally, restore your physical strength, improve your mood and emotional background. Despite the fact that the first baths were built in Egypt, steaming in them is considered an original Russian tradition. That is why every self-respecting summer resident who has all the necessary communications at his summer cottage considers it his duty to build or order the construction of his own bathhouse or sauna. If you want to order turnkey in the Moscow region, our company will carry out everything necessary work quickly and efficiently.

Selecting material and determining the size of the structure

The first thing you will have to deal with is choosing the necessary material, drawing up an individual project, in which you will calculate in detail the dimensions of the future bathhouse. In today's market, the priority for construction is wood of valuable species, such as cedar, spruce or pine. Of course, you can build a bathhouse from bricks or blocks, but the microclimate that will reign in it will not be so valuable. Wooden baths fit very well into any landscape design summer cottage, and natural ingredients fill the bathhouse with a special aroma that has a healing effect on the human body. In order to extend the life of a country bathhouse and prevent a flammable situation, it is best to treat the wood with antiseptics or other special compounds. A unique small bathhouse for a dacha in the Moscow region is usually calculated based on an internal usable area of ​​10 square meters for 2-3 people. Typically such a bath consists of:

• dressing room;
• directly to the steam room;
• shower room

The dressing room can be equipped with a rest room. Linden, alder or aspen are well suited for the interior decoration of a bathhouse. Abashi wood is often used, but its raw materials are quite expensive.

Where can I order the construction of a country bathhouse?

All work on building a bathhouse on a summer cottage can be done independently, but this requires special qualifications and certain knowledge, in addition, it will take a lot of free time. That is why it is better to buy a turnkey bathhouse for your dacha inexpensively and at the same time significantly save not only your own time, but also financial costs. A professional company for the construction of buildings made of natural wood guarantees:

• durability of the structure, its fire resistance;
• strength and reliability of the main structure;
• selection of high-quality materials that do not rot and crack.

A turnkey country bathhouse has a huge number of advantages; the price from the manufacturer is, perhaps, its main advantage. A country bathhouse will allow you to experience all the delights of relaxation and will give every steam bath lover new strength and energy.

A home sauna has the simplest design and small dimensions, which greatly facilitates its construction. The most important process is the arrangement of the stove and ventilation; everything else will not require much effort and material costs. An inexpensive and convenient do-it-yourself sauna at the dacha is not only an opportunity have a nice rest, but also a reason for pride.

To build a sauna, choose a site located near the house, where it is possible to dig a hole for a septic tank. It is undesirable for large trees to grow nearby, destroying the foundation of the building with their roots. For the convenience of those steaming in the sauna, there should be at least 2 cubic meters of room per person.

If we also add the size of the locker room and washing room, then the minimum construction area will take 10 square meters. m. The pit for draining water can be located under the washing room, which will save space.

The sauna body can be made of brick, timber, or even a metal frame, insulated and covered with siding. The interior must be upholstered with clapboard or ordinary boards. The choice of wood is very important: the best option is linden or alder. Conifers are very useful, inexpensive and have a pleasant smell, but at high temperatures they release resin.

The main element of the sauna is the stove. It’s best if it’s real, made of red brick and heated with wood. But the construction of such a furnace is only possible to an experienced master, therefore, without special knowledge it is not worth taking on its construction. The optimal solution would be to purchase a ready-made metal stove with a built-in heat exchanger and a tank for heating water.

Construction of the foundation

To build a columnar foundation you will need:

• support pillars;
• garden auger and shovel;
• tape measure and level;
• container for a septic tank;
• crushed stone and sand;
• concrete solution.

Step 1. Marking the area

First, markings are made: the location of the corner support is determined, a peg is driven in and the distance to the second corner is measured. Next, perpendicular and lines mark the sides and 2 more corners of the building. You should get a regular rectangle. The perimeter of the future sauna and internal partitions are marked using a rope stretched between the pegs. Support posts must be installed at each corner, under load-bearing walls at a distance of 2 m and at the intersection of internal partitions.

In addition to the location of the corner posts, you should immediately determine the location for the drainage pit. If there is a large container for a septic tank, the dimensions of the pit should correspond to the volume of the container, otherwise you need to dig a square pit with a side of 1 m and a depth of approximately 1.2 m. Holes for support pillars are most easily made using a hand drill. For a light wooden sauna, the depth of the holes for the foundation pillars is 40-50 cm.

Step 2. Preparing the pit

Sand is poured into a 15 cm layer at the bottom of the pit, compacted and a layer of crushed stone is poured. After this, install a container with perforated walls, level and strengthen the top. If there is no barrel, the walls of the pit are lined with bricks, leaving small, uniform gaps in the masonry for water to seep through. Starting from half of the pit and up to the top, the masonry must be made monolithic to avoid soil shedding.

Step 3. Construction of the foundation

Logs, metal pipes and concrete pillars are suitable for support posts. Be sure to choose the densest tree possible, preferably pine. To avoid rotting, the surface of the logs is thickly coated with bitumen mastic and dried.

Metal pipes are first treated with a primer with anti-corrosion properties. Crushed stone is poured into the bottom of the holes, after which the pillars are installed and leveled in height and vertically. Next, the holes are filled with soil mixed with sand, spilled with water for greater compaction, and compacted.

The top of the pillars is covered with roofing felt and the base beams are laid along the perimeter of the future building. The beams are secured with staples or nails to the support posts. Additional bars are installed inside the perimeter in increments of 20 cm and parallel to each other. This will be the base for the flooring. You can replace the timber with a reinforcement grid, install formwork and fill it with concrete.

Even small brick buildings require skill, especially when building corners. It is much easier to build a frame from timber and cover it with boards. After insulation, such a building will be no worse than a brick one. You can assemble a frame from glued or profiled timber, which is the most popular option for a country sauna.

So, to assemble the frame you will need:

• timber 100x150 mm;
• wooden slats 40x60 mm;
• support beams;
• level;
• screws or nails;
• primer;
• metal staples;
• glassine;
• mineral wool;
• foil vapor barrier;
• boards for cladding.

Step 1. Installation of supporting structures

First, the corner support beams are mounted: they are secured with spacers, aligned vertically using a level and secured to the base with metal brackets. From above, along the perimeter, the frame is secured with beams. Next, intermediate vertical beams are installed along the walls every meter and secured with brackets to the lower and upper trim.

Door and window boxes, nail transverse slats to strengthen the structure. At the corners, braces made of timber are installed, directed in different directions.

Step 2. External cladding of the frame

The wooden frame is sheathed with boards 3 cm thick. Work begins from the corner and from the bottom: the first board is applied to the supports parallel to the ground, leveled so that the edge does not go beyond the corner, and nailed. It is not advisable to join the boards in the middle of the span; their edges should meet at one of the vertical posts. The rafters are sheathed last, and it is necessary to leave a hole in the roof for the chimney.

Step 3. Insulation of walls, floor and ceiling

The inside of the walls is covered with glassine or polyethylene film to waterproof the insulation. The film is overlapped along the edges by 10-12 cm, and the seams are sealed with construction tape. Mineral wool slabs are tightly inserted between the frame beams, the thickness of the insulation layer is at least 10 cm.

The top of the cotton wool is covered with foil material, which acts as a vapor barrier. The foil side must be placed on top to reflect heat from inside the room.

The floor and ceiling can be insulated using polystyrene foam 10 cm thick. The base boards are covered with polyethylene film, the edges of which should extend onto the walls by about 3-5 cm. Foam plastic is laid between the joists, cracks and gaps in the seams are blown out polyurethane foam, and a screed is poured on top. You can also make a wooden floor, although the boards will last less in such conditions. You can lay tiles over the screed - they are easy to clean and are not afraid of changes in temperature and moisture.

Where the stove will be installed, a fireproof base must be made: a square metal sheet, the dimensions of which exceeds the area of ​​the stove, is nailed to the floor, and bricks are laid on top edgewise in dense rows. A clay-sand mixture serves as the binding solution. Only red fired brick is used; other types are not suitable.

The ceiling is insulated in the standard way: polystyrene foam is inserted between the ceilings, all cracks are filled with foam, and the vapor barrier layer is secured with foil on top using a stapler. After this, the wiring is laid, the walls and ceiling are sheathed with clapboard.

Interior arrangement

After the construction and thermal insulation of the building, you can proceed to the main part - installing the stove and interior design saunas. It is very important to properly insulate wooden surfaces located near the stove. For the partition adjacent to the furnace, red brick and aerated concrete blocks are ideal; in extreme cases, you can use cladding made of galvanized sheets.

To set up a sauna you will need:

• metal stove;
• stainless steel tank;
• connecting pipes and tap;
• boards for benches;
• self-tapping screws;
• roulette;
• screwdriver;
• chimney with a protective cap.

Step 1. Installation of the furnace

Lay out a wall made of brick or aerated concrete blocks, the width corresponding to the width of the oven. If you don’t want to mess with bricks, you can cover the adjacent walls and part of the ceiling with special felt, and then cover it all with galvanization. A stove is installed on a brick base, the chimney is led to the attic, pipes and a water tank are connected to the stove.

To avoid fire of the rafter system, a box is knocked down from boards around the chimney and filled with a mixture of sand and clay. The pipe ends up in the middle of the box and cannot heat the wooden elements of the building. A protective frame is also built around the stove from scraps of lumber. Wooden fencing can be round, square or rectangular; it should not rise above the heating elements by more than 5 cm. A distance of 7-10 cm is left between the heater and the fence.

Step 2. Installing shelves and doors

The lower shelf is attached to the walls at a level of 50-65 cm from the floor, the upper shelf - at a distance of 1 m from the sauna ceiling. Usually they make 3 shelves with a width of 30 cm, depending on the build of the household. To make shelves, use the same boards as for internal lining. They are first thoroughly sanded, impregnated with an antiseptic, and then with a special varnish.

It is recommended that sauna doors open outward. You can install a frosted glass window in the door leaf. The bottom edge of the door must be trimmed by 5 cm to ensure air flow. Roller or magnetic latches are used as locks, which, if necessary, open very easily.

Step 3. Laying stones

For a sauna, choose stones that are round in shape, without cracks or deep potholes. Before installation, they must be washed and dried well. First, large stones are laid, trying not to leave gaps between them, and then the remaining space is filled with small stones. During the operation of the sauna, the stones will have to be periodically inspected, washed and broken pieces removed.

Step 4. Finishing

At the final stage, lamps, towel hooks, and a clothes hanger are installed. It is best to mount light bulbs above the doorway or in the corner opposite the shelves. To avoid getting burned by a lamp in a cramped room, it is recommended to cover it with a decorative grille. It should be taken into account that all lighting devices must be moisture resistant.

Video - Do-it-yourself sauna at the dacha

Everyone who has a suburban area wants to make the most of its space. And to lay out a garden and plant a vegetable garden and have a house. And for rest and relaxation, of course, you definitely need a bathhouse.

Mobile sauna trailer - an ideal mini-tower option

There is absolutely no reason to be upset and upset if the area of ​​your site is not large enough to build a bathhouse of standard sizes. You can consider a project for a compact mini bathhouse in the country. A small sauna built with your own hands meets the needs of steam lovers just as much as a standard one. And in terms of saving free space and material costs, its construction will certainly be of interest to the thrifty owner.

How to determine the size of a mini bath?

If the ground is sufficiently dry and hard, then you can use a simplified version of the foundation. First, flat stones are laid around the perimeter of the future structure, then the same stones are laid in the interior of the foundation. The free spaces between the stones are filled with clay and compacted thoroughly. A layer of wooden beams is placed on top, treated over the entire surface with hot bitumen.

Walling

Arrangement of water supply and drainage

Heating system

Ventilation and lighting of mini baths

Single mini sauna on the street

Mini sauna - barrel without foundation

To assemble such a bathhouse, you will need lightweight insulated panels, which are a frame made of wooden beams covered with thin boards. The size of one frame is 185x60 cm, and in its manufacture they use timber with a cross-section of 3x6 cm and boards 1-1.5 cm thick. To insulate and provide heat and vapor barrier, the panels are filled with foam plastic or mineral wool, covering it on the inside with polyethylene film or aluminum foil . The outer side is covered with glassine or roofing felt. Then the panels are covered with clapboard.

Mini sauna indoors

Cabin - mini sauna single

Portable compact mini steam room in a city apartment

Steam cabin in a regular small bathroom

• How to build a mini-sauna with your own hands in the country or at home

  
  If the area of ​​your site is not large enough to build a bathhouse of standard sizes, then you can consider the project of a compact mini bathhouse in the country.

A small do-it-yourself sauna in a country house or country house

It is difficult to imagine modern country or country houses without a bathhouse, which has become an obligatory component of a country holiday. But what to do if there is not enough money or very little money to build a full-fledged steam room? land plot, on which it will not be possible to place a separate building? For those who experience similar problems, there is only one way out - a mini-sauna with your own hands in the country.

Choosing a place in a country house to build a mini-sauna

As a rule, a steam room is set up in one of the rooms of the house, the main thing is that it is suitable in size and it is possible to organize power supply and ventilation in it. For example, a do-it-yourself mini-sauna in a country house can be placed in the attic, basement or on the balcony if the house is two-story. An ideal option if it is possible to make a direct exit from the sauna to the shore of an artificial or natural reservoir.

Choosing a location for a mini-sauna

Equipping a mini-bath in country house, it is possible to save significant funds on the installation of communications: sewerage, water supply, electrical wiring, but at the same time not lose square meters of internal space.

Layout and dimensions of a mini-sana in a country house

Setting up a sauna with your own hands in the first stages includes developing a diagram and determining the dimensions of the future home bath. The size of a small steam room is designed on the basis that one or two people will steam in it. Each person in the booth must have a volume of at least 2 m3. In this case, the ceiling height should be at least 2 m. The most successful minimum size is 2 x 1.8 m, when a bench can be installed on each side.

Layout and dimensions of the mini-sauna

A do-it-yourself mini-sauna at the dacha, the drawings of which include the minimum allowable height and area, allows you to significantly save on electricity and time to warm up the steam room. Because the larger the cabin, the more electricity it will require to operate.

Finishing the floors in the sauna

We begin the construction of a home bath with finishing the floors. For their base, concrete is used, lined with natural or artificial stones. You can also lay the floor in a steam room with tiles - a practical, inexpensive and common option.

According to its characteristics, a terrace board (thermal wood) is ideal for installing a floor in a sauna, as it can withstand high temperatures, changes in humidity, dynamic loads and has a corrugated surface, beautiful texture and long-lasting shade.

Installation of a wooden frame

Before making a frame, you need to make sure that the room is rectangular by measuring and comparing its diagonals - they should be the same. If necessary, make adjustments using the frame beams, retreating the required distance from the walls.

The elements of the frame are dry pine beams, with a cross-section of 5x5 cm. Depending on how the walls will be covered with clapboard, they are placed vertically or horizontally, in increments of 400 mm. To thickness thermal insulation material an indentation is made from the main wall (50 - 100 mm).

In order to subsequently carry out the correct installation of an electric heater, which is installed on a finished wall, it is necessary to provide embedded elements (additional frame bars).

Organization of ventilation in the mini-sauna

For the steam room to work correctly, you need a well-executed do-it-yourself sauna ventilation system that can provide no less than a six-fold change of air in the cabin per hour.

For this purpose, a supply hole is made near the heater and the floor to allow fresh air to enter the bathhouse. On the opposite wall, closer to the ceiling, there is an exhaust opening through which hot air will enter the common air duct. Another ventilation hole is made in the ceiling, closed with a damper, designed for quick and complete ventilation of the sauna between sessions. This option for organizing ventilation is the most common.

Depending on the design of the steam room and the features of its location, ventilation diagram may change.

Electrical supply for mini-baths

Since the steam room is a room with increased danger and high temperatures, it is necessary to pay special attention to the arrangement of the power supply. For hidden electrical wiring you need to use wires with reliable heat-resistant insulation that can withstand up to 170 - 180 0 C. It is not allowed to connect wires inside the bathhouse, install electrical sockets and switches, as well as control devices.

Lamps should be used only specialized ones - heat-resistant (protection degree IP 65). It is practical to place them under benches.

All electrical equipment in a home bath must be connected through high-quality circuit breakers that protect the electrical circuits from short circuits.

Organization of thermal insulation of a mini-bath

Insulating the sauna from the inside with your own hands is necessary to ensure quick heating of the steam room and save on energy resources, and, accordingly, on the power of the heater. Thermal insulation made from basalt-based mineral wool has become widespread, since it does not absorb moisture and has vapor-permeable and non-flammable properties.

Mineral wool is inserted into the wall frames in mats 5 cm thick. Pay special attention to the thermal insulation of the ceiling, since large heat losses occur through it. The thickness of the mineral wool should be at least 10 cm. The wool should be attached to the rough wooden ceiling using long self-tapping screws.

Having completed the installation of mineral wool, the entire frame must be covered with special foil paper. It has excellent reflective properties, and also perfectly retains radiation energy and creates a “thermos effect”.

After completing the process of insulating the home steam room, it must be sheathed with clapboard.

Selecting and assembling a stove with your own hands for a mini-sauna

A self-made electric heater for a sauna will help to significantly save money on setting up a mini-steam room, and it would be better to entrust the connection of the finished device to professional electricians. It is very compact, making it ideal for small steam rooms. In addition, the heater is quite easy to install and does not require the purchase of expensive materials.

Electric sauna stove

In order to assemble an electric sauna stove with your own hands, you need to carry out the following steps:

• we draw up a drawing of the future stove, taking into account the size of the cage for stones;
• we calculate the number of heating elements, depending on the required power;
• We assemble the stove - we fix the heating elements on the frame and connect them with jumpers. We use a sheet of steel 3 mm thick as a base, we attach the remaining parts to it using bolts and welding;
• We place stones on top as tightly as possible into the finished frame;
• install a protective casing made of steel sheet;
• we connect the electric furnace using a serial or parallel connection of heating elements;
• We check the functionality of the oven.

You can also make a wood-burning sauna stove with your own hands, which is a classic option. It has universal properties that allow you to maintain temperature regime in the bathhouse at the required level with minimal costs.

A stove for a wood-burning sauna with your own hands can be assembled in the following options:

• the stove frame is welded from sheet steel 4–5 mm thick, and having installed it at the installation site, it is covered with refractory bricks;
• The stove is made of special refractory bricks.

Installation of benches

Shelves in the sauna can be built with your own hands from planed timber with a cross-section of 5x5 cm. Its design will completely depend on the size and type of benches. If the ceiling height is 2 m, the upper shelf should be made at a level of 1 m. The width of such a lounger should be at least 70 cm. The lower shelf is installed at a height of 60 - 70 cm, its width can be 40 - 50 cm, since it is intended for sitting.

Mini-sauna in the country: how to make it yourself

If you want your holiday at the dacha to be complete and with health benefits, then start building a small sauna in a country house that will take up a minimum of space.

Do-it-yourself comfortable mini-steam room in a private home or country house: step-by-step arrangement technology

Agree, it’s very convenient to have a mini-steam room right in your home or country house, and not just in personal plot? The ability to take bath procedures at any time of the day or night, reducing energy costs, and prompt heating are just a small part of the advantages of a compact bath over a traditional one. But the most important thing is that it is much easier to equip it with your own hands. If you are increasingly thinking about a mini-steam room, here’s what you need to consider: step-by-step technology its structures with detailed photos and useful videos.

Design and assembly of the steam room

The first stage of installing a mini-steam room in a house or country house is drawing up a project. It will protect you from mistakes at all subsequent stages of construction. The project must necessarily contain:

• general drawing of the steam room;
• frame dimensions;
• location and connection diagram of the heating device and ventilation;
• internal filling of the steam room.

Determine the size of the mini-steam room at your discretion: depending on your needs and the available space. Practice shows that the optimal dimensions for a home bath are 2x2 or 2x1.6 m. As for the location, most often a steam room is installed in the bathroom, since all the necessary communications are already there. Although, if square meters allow, you can allocate a loggia or even a separate room for it.

The second stage is the installation of the steam room:

1. Pour the floating concrete floor onto the marked work area.
2. Assemble the frame of the bathhouse from vertical bars. Install the elements in 60 cm increments and secure them with screws and corners.
3. Install a door between a pair of bars: a compartment, a door with hinges or Velcro, a glass structure - whatever your budget and imagination allow.
4. Lay ceramic tiles on the concrete floor. Subsequently, it will need to be covered with wooden gratings.
5. Cover the outside of the frame with wood panels. These can be boards made of coniferous or hardwood, or lining. Install the panels horizontally and secure them to the frame with screws and dowels.

Advice. To prevent moisture from penetrating into the sheathing, install wooden panels with a slight overlap over each other.

Thermal insulation of walls

The recommended layer of mineral wool is at least 5 cm. It is laid on the inside of the frame between the bars. But the wood cladding sheets are first covered with aluminum foil - it will serve as an intermediate layer between the thermal insulation and the outer cladding and protect the wood from condensation.

Mineral wool is laid overlapping on the foil. A layer of waterproofing is again placed on top of the insulation - aluminum foil can also be used here. In this case, the reflective layer of material should be directed not towards the mineral wool, but towards the steam room. The foil should be fixed construction stapler on frame bars. And the waterproofing sheets need to be connected to each other with tape.

After laying the thermal insulation, sew up the walls of the mini-steam room from the inside. You can use the same wood materials as for the external walls.

Heating and ventilation

To heat a mini-steam room in the house, the easiest way is to use an electric heater. Its power is calculated according to a simple scheme: 1.-1.5 kW per 1 sq.m. area. That is, for a home bathhouse 2x2 m, a device with a power of 4-6 kW will be sufficient. It can even be connected to a standard single-phase power supply.

The electric furnace is placed either on the wall or on the floor, but always near the door - this is necessary so that the cold air coming from outside is immediately captured and warmed up by hot air currents. The stove is equipped with a compartment for stones - when poured with water, they form steam, which increases the humidity in the mini-steam room.

The electric oven is also equipped with a thermostat, thanks to which the required comfortable temperature is maintained in the steam room.

Another mandatory stage in arranging a mini-bath in the house is organizing ventilation:

1. At the bottom of the floor near the stove, make a supply hole for air in one of the walls of the steam room.
2. Make an exhaust hole in the wall as far as possible from the supply opening and from the door.

Both openings must go into one room, which, in turn, must have a ventilation exhaust duct leading to the street. An electric fan should be installed in the hood.

Interior arrangement

Finally, the final stage of creating a mini-steam room is its internal filling. For ease of use of the bath you will need:

This is a minimum set, which, if the dimensions are correctly calculated, will fit perfectly in a mini-steam room. In order not to make mistakes with the dimensions, all filling elements must be included in the drawing at the stage of creating the steam room project.

All components of the bath must be made of wood that does not contain resin and is characterized by low thermal conductivity: linden, spruce, aspen. You can make benches and shelves with your own hands, but it is better to buy footrests and headrests in special stores.

Also an important component of filling a mini-steam room is lighting. These should only be heat- and moisture-resistant lamps. To ensure safety, switches should be placed exclusively on the outside of the bathhouse.

Thus, a mini-steam room in a private house or country house is not at all a hard-to-find exotic, but a completely feasible idea. For its successful implementation, you need to think through every moment: design, size, finishing, heating, ventilation, interior arrangement - by paying maximum attention to each of these points, you will get a functional and comfortable mini-bath that will give you a lot of pleasant moments.

Do-it-yourself mini-steam room at the dacha and in a private house: photo, video

If you are increasingly thinking about a mini-steam room, here is a step-by-step technology for its construction with detailed photos and useful videos.

Mini sauna for a summer residence: how is it different from a regular one and is it difficult to build it with your own hands?

If you pay attention to the dacha plots that were allocated to ordinary citizens in Soviet times, then the thought immediately arises only about planting vegetables. After all, there is no room left for anything other than a small house. But spending summer time at the dacha, I also want to take a steam bath in the bathhouse after a hard day of work on the site. Few people know, but even in a small area it is possible to install a steam room. Moreover, this will be a purely budget option that does not require special investments. Surely some have already guessed that today we will talk about such a building as a mini bathhouse for a summer house, as well as how to do all the work with your own hands.

A mini sauna at the dacha is really very necessary

Mobile sauna in the countryside made of wood - simple and tasteful

Mini sauna in a country house of 6 acres - myth or reality?

What are the usual reasons why a summer resident does not decide to build a bathhouse on his property? Of course, this is the lack of funds for its construction and the necessary space on the site. As for a mini sauna in the country, it can be an ideal solution to these two issues. Let's try to figure out whether it is worth undertaking such construction or whether it might be easier to purchase a ready-made one and install it on the site.

Let's start with the fact that buying a ready-made room for a bathhouse is an easier solution, but at the same time, the summer resident faces another problem - after all, he really needs a budget option. And this cannot in any way include the acquisition of a finished building. It is for this reason that today we will consider the construction of a bathhouse with our own hands. Although we will definitely dwell on the cost of ready-made ones, but a little later.

Everyone puts a different meaning into the concept of “small bathhouse in the country”. After all, for some, even a plot of 20 acres is considered small. But we will consider the average garden plots of 6-8 acres. This means that the bathhouse on them should not occupy more than 4-6 m in length and 2-3 m in width. First of all, we’ll figure out what bathhouses can be like on a summer cottage, what they can be built from, and only after that we’ll decide how to do all the necessary work.

Materials from which you can make a small bathhouse in your summer cottage

First you need to understand what the structure will consist of. It could be:

• Wooden beam;
• Edged board;
• Metal frame covered with wood;
• Plastic corrugated sheeting (not suitable for stove kindling - only steam);
• Brick or foam block.

Of course, the most common material for such a building was and remains wood. After all, if you think about it, what kind of bathhouse is made of plastic and similar materials. Naturally, metal is out of the question at all, although some recommend it for the frame of a building. And yet, not everyone in their yard has the opportunity to process and weld metal, and therefore we will focus on an option consisting entirely of wood.

A mini bath can also be built on a metal frame like this

Frame baths as the simplest type of construction

Surely in childhood everyone built “headquarters” in the forest between the trees. Something similar will happen in this case. The initial stage is the assembly of the skeleton, like the skeleton of the future structure. The interesting thing about building a frame mini bathhouse with your own hands is that you can even do without a foundation as such. Of course, it won’t be worse if a good foundation is made, but the main task is to ensure that the frame settles tightly on the soil. Now we will try to explain step by step how construction should proceed. To make it clearer and more comprehensive, let’s take a larger bathhouse as an example of a frame, but there will be no changes in the algorithm of actions, and therefore there should be no problems during construction.

Let’s say right away that all the work was done on a computer, this is a complete project. But this only applies to the frame of the bathhouse. We will observe everything related to finishing and cladding in photo examples.

At first glance, everything seems very complicated. But when you start working, you can understand that the eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing the work. Although it is difficult to assemble a frame mini bathhouse with your own hands, it is quite possible.

A bathhouse made of boards - is it much more difficult to build?

In fact, assembling a bathhouse from boards with your own hands is a little more difficult than a frame one. The work algorithm looks something like this. To begin with, just like for the frame, a base frame is assembled from timber, which is laid on the foundation. Floor joists are attached. In this case, the floor can even be assembled immediately - it will be more convenient. The next steps are raising the walls, which is made from boards joined “in a tenon”.

This way the walls are raised to the required height. After this, you can strengthen them from the inside, lay insulation, vapor barrier film and cover them with clapboard. The roof rises similarly to the previous version. But if how to build a bathhouse from boards with your own hands is more or less clear, then an even more complex option remains to be dealt with.

Barrel sauna - what is it and how to build it

A barrel mini sauna is a rather interesting structure that will decorate the landscape of any area. If we make comparisons, then the most suitable here would be a small tank with cut out windows and a door. Let's try to understand how it is assembled.

Among the advantages, in addition to appearance, one can point out the absence of a foundation for such a building, which means the structure will be mobile. Of course, provided that it is firmly assembled. For the walls you will need an edged board (it is better to use spruce or larch) which is connected using the tongue-and-groove method, like lining. But the board should be much thicker. The base is made of 5-6 boards at least 5 cm thick, standing on an edge with a semicircular notch.

The barrel sauna is difficult to build, but it looks its best

Further along, on the supports, boards prepared for the walls are laid. After assembling the lower part of the walls, round partitions are assembled in the same way with recesses for the door. Well, after that you can assemble the walls completely in a circle. As for the interior decoration, there is complete freedom of imagination. We offer several examples that will help explain how to build a barrel sauna with your own hands.

This is roughly what happens. But no matter what method the bathhouse is built, it is very important what it will have inside.

Components and equipment - what needs to be installed inside

Of course, everyone knows that the stove is the most important thing in a sauna. But in addition to the required elements, you can think of what else you can supplement it with. And yet, first of all, about the main thing.

Mini stove for a bath – buy or make?

This question cannot be answered unequivocally. If a home craftsman has experience in making such equipment, then, of course, a do-it-yourself mini stove for a wood-burning sauna will be preferable. If not, then you will have to purchase a similar heat generator. In this case, a good and relatively inexpensive solution would be to purchase a “Varvara mini” sauna stove.

Bath stove "Varvara mini" is a very good choice

Do you need a pool in a mini sauna and how to arrange it?

It makes sense to purchase a swimming pool for mini baths only if the size of the building allows it. Although sometimes it is installed directly next to the building. Of course, this is a pretty good way to relax after a steam room, but if the area is small, it may be overkill.

Sauna inside a bathhouse – what’s good about this option?

A mini sauna in the country will be very useful for those in whose family not everyone likes a hot enough steam room. Then, by making a firebox on the back side of the door, you can fence off a small room inside. The temperature in it will be significantly higher than in the washing room. This way, those who like intense heat will be able to relax with a good steam. Others will be in the next room, where the heat is not so strong.

Bathhouse projects with a relaxation room and a terrace. In a separate publication you will learn about the most successful layouts of bathhouses with an extension in the form of a veranda or terrace.

Advantages of a self-made small bathhouse in the country

Before building a mini sauna for a summer house with your own hands, the project is the first thing you should think about. Without it, nothing meaningful will happen.

You can make such a bathhouse if there are no neighbors nearby and there is nothing to be embarrassed about

Of course, a small bathhouse in the country is a necessary thing, and therefore such a construction is worth starting, despite the apparent complexity. Well, if you have a complete lack of desire and desire for construction, you can purchase a ready-made steam room, which will be delivered to you directly to your yard. The only thing you need to do is prepare a flat area for it.

Finishing the bathhouse inside. Photos and examples. In a separate publication you will find interesting ideas for finishing steam rooms and relaxation rooms, and also learn the main stages of installation.

Where can you buy a mini sauna for your dacha inexpensively?

Nowadays, you can order a finished building quite easily - the Internet is replete with such advertisements. The question is that the cost of such a building is quite high. Now let’s try to figure it out at what price you can buy a mini sauna for your dacha.

Thus, you can understand that it is unlikely to be possible to purchase a turnkey bathhouse for your dacha inexpensively. That is why it is worth thinking about DIY construction. In this case, you can meet less than half of the market price, or even a third. Of course, you can buy a sauna for your dacha inexpensively, but in this case you will only receive a box without interior decoration and a stove. And this will be a barn, not a steam room.

Examples of small bathhouses made by hand at the dacha - photo review of interesting solutions

Perhaps someone else doubts whether it is worth starting construction. We invite you to look at a few photos of mini baths for summer cottages with your own hands.

This is roughly how you get homemade, quite beautiful steam rooms. Agree that small bathhouses for summer cottages look simply lovely in the photo.

Summarizing

Summarizing the material presented, we can draw the following conclusions:

• If you decide to start building a bathhouse with your own hands, the first thing you need to do is draw up a project;
• Next, think through everything thoroughly and purchase the necessary material;
• You need to approach work carefully and carefully, but at the same time creatively;
• There is no need to rush in this matter, but you should not leave an unfinished bathhouse for the winter either.

And if you follow these simple rules, then a mini sauna at the dacha will not only please the eye, but also soothe the soul, and give health and joy to you and your loved ones.

Do-it-yourself mini sauna for a summer residence: materials, components, models

Mini sauna for a summer residence: materials from which it can be made, components and equipment, advantages, review of purchased models, useful tips and recommendations from experts.

Homemade construction portal

Mini baths in the country: how to make it yourself. Device description location of mini baths in garden and summer cottages

Surely every happy owner of the notorious 6 acres outside the city tries to make the most of his Not large plot land. Plant fruit trees, organize a small vegetable garden, and build a two-story house, albeit with only two rooms. And where there is a house, there is a desire to build a bathhouse, so that if you relax, then to the fullest.

There is absolutely no reason to be upset and upset if the area of ​​your site is not large enough to build a bathhouse of standard sizes. You can consider a compact project mini baths in the country. A small sauna built with your own hands meets the needs of steam lovers just as much as a standard one. And in terms of saving free space and material costs, its construction will certainly be of interest to the thrifty owner.

The size of your future bathhouse must be calculated based on the number of people who will use it. For a small family consisting of 2 or 4 people, a budget option for a small building is quite suitable. The height of the bathhouse in such a project will be 2 m, the length will be 6 m, and the width will be only 2 m 20 cm.

The interior space of the mini bath should be divided into 4 separate rooms, each of which has its own purpose. The dressing room is included in the design of any bathhouse, and for a small bath house its area can be no more than 1.5x2 m. Of course, you can’t do without a rest room, the parameters of which in this case will be 2x2 meters. For two or three people it will be quite possible to stay in such a room. The remaining room of the mini bath is allocated for a tiny shower room, with an area of ​​1x1 m, and, in fact, a steam room, with the same dimensions as the dressing room - 1.5x2 meters. For a shower corner and steam room, it will be necessary to make additional calculations of the area, taking into account the arrangement of the shower tray, and the placement of shelves in the steam room.

The stages of building a mini bathhouse at the dacha are carried out in the usual sequence. Despite the fact that our bathhouse will be very small, the construction rules for it are the same as for all other buildings.

You should start by building a foundation. At this stage, an extremely important point is the type of soil on which the bathhouse will be located.

If the ground is sufficiently dry and hard, then you can use a simplified version of the foundation. First, flat stones are laid around the perimeter of the future structure, then the same stones are laid in the interior of the foundation. The free spaces between the stones are filled with clay and compacted thoroughly. A layer of wooden beams is placed on top, treated over the entire surface with hot bitumen.

You don’t have to use clay, but lay the foundation of a mini bathhouse out of stones alone – “solid”. In this case, it will be necessary to cover the stone foundation with a layer of waterproofing.

Most often, a columnar foundation is made for a bathhouse, using brick, stone, ready-made asbestos concrete or concrete pipes filled with the same concrete. The structure can be installed on metal, wood or concrete piles. But then you will need to take care of additional thermal insulation of the bathhouse floor.

The most reliable and common is the strip foundation. To make it, a trench is dug, which is filled layer by layer with wet compacted sand and crushed stone. Then they knit the reinforcement and fill it with concrete. As usual, roofing felt is used as waterproofing.

If the soil on your site consists of sand and is filled with groundwater, then concrete blocks can be used to create a foundation for a mini bathhouse. For a small, lightweight structure, 10 blocks with standard dimensions of 20x20x40 cm are sufficient.

The first step is to install the frame of the future bath house and erect the walls. After this, the walls of the dressing room, rest room and shower are insulated with a mixture of expanded clay and sawdust. The insulating mixture is covered with polystyrene sheets and the walls of the mini bath are lined with clapboard. Can be added to sawdust and expanded clay broken glass, which will protect your bathhouse from the penetration of rodents into the interstitial space.

The walls of the steam room require special treatment. Therefore, about 5 cm of free space is left behind the lining, a heat and vapor barrier film is placed there, and then the air gap is filled with mineral wool. It is rational to make the walls inside the shower room from galvanized steel or polystyrene, which can withstand frequent contact with water much better than wood.

If there is no pressure water supply in your area, the water supply to the mini bath can easily be made by gravity. To do this, you need to build a structure from two galvanized tanks, each with a volume of 50 liters, hoses and a mixer.

Tank with hot water installed at a level half a meter lower than the installation level of the cold water tank. One end of the connecting hose is fixed at the bottom of the “cold” tank, and the second is connected to the top of the “hot” tank. The temperature difference will ensure independent circulation of water through the pipes. To supply water to the shower, both tanks are connected by a separate pipe, at the end of which a mixer is installed.

To equip a water drain, a few drainage pipes and a drainage hole will be enough. The pipes are positioned at the desired angle, and the water flows by gravity into the pit.

The water in the mini bath is heated using a stove installed in the steam room. You can also use a heating element for these purposes, which can be easily purchased in a store.

If you heat water with a stove, you need to install a U-shaped pipe in the hottest part of the stove, wrapping it around the base of the chimney. The water supply end of the pipe should be located on the body, and the outlet end should be located 5 cm higher from it.

The heating element is placed under a cold water tank and connected to the system with hoses and stainless steel pipes.

It is not difficult to provide ventilation for a small bathhouse. To do this, you do not need to buy any additional devices. It is enough to make a small hole in the wall opposite the entrance door, which can be easily opened or closed using a damper.

To illuminate a mini bath, several halogen lamps with a heat-resistant housing are sufficient. Using a small transformer, you can easily reduce the voltage from 220 to 12V.

As you can see, building a mini bathhouse with your own hands is not that difficult.

Let's look at an example of a compact mini bath for one person.

To assemble such a bathhouse, you will need lightweight insulated panels, which are a frame made of wooden beams covered with thin boards. The size of one frame is 185x60 cm, and in its manufacture they use timber with a cross-section of 3x6 cm and boards 1-1.5 cm thick. To insulate and provide heat and vapor barrier, the panels are filled with foam plastic or mineral wool, covering it on the inside with polyethylene film or aluminum foil . The outer side is covered with glassine or roofing felt. Then the panels are covered with clapboard.

In one of the panels a door is made, measuring 160x60 cm, in which a small window with double glass is provided. Door locks at the top and bottom of the doorway ensure the tightness of the bathhouse. At the bottom of the panel, near which the heating device will be located, make a small ventilation hole with a plug.

How to build a mini sauna for one person on the street? Very simple. It is necessary to assemble a structure of the required size and provide it with hydro- and thermal insulation.

For a single steam room with an internal area of ​​180x130 cm, 10 panels for the walls and two for the roof are enough. The seams of the structure are filled with batting and covered on both sides with wooden planks. The ceiling of the mini bath will be protected from precipitation by a triple layer of roofing material.

If you intend to use the bathhouse only in the warm season, then the floor of the structure does not need to be insulated. For year-round use, a strip foundation with insulating jumpers is poured.

To heat a single steam room to 80-90 degrees C, use a closed-type electric stove with a power of 3 kW. Place a metal bucket or box of stones on the stove and turn it on for several hours. After this, you can begin bathing procedures.

In an apartment, in your bathroom, a small bathhouse with your own hands can also be equipped quite quickly and easily. There are two ways to arrange a mini bath with electric heating in the bathroom.

The first option involves installing a removable shelf at a height of 1 meter from the floor on two beams. The beams must be securely fastened to the walls with strong pins. The height of the shelf above the bath is 40-60 cm.

To climb onto the shelves, a small ladder with rubber bearings is made. To avoid injury, the ladder must be tied to the shelf with twine. The width of the shelf is 60 cm. The steam room is heated with an electric stove, which is placed on a reinforced stand above the sink. The heater in this version is a metal basin or bucket, which is filled with stones and placed directly on the stove.

In the second option, they make a sitting steam room on the bathtub, covering it with removable wooden panels. In this case, the shelf serves as a seat, and you can not only rest your feet on the durable panels, but also stand on them. Hanging at a short distance from the shelf wooden block and throw their legs over it.

To achieve maximum resemblance to a bathhouse, the walls and ceiling above the bathtub are covered with wooden slats or removable panels are mounted from boards. If necessary, such shields are easy to install and remove.

Heating of a mini bath is also carried out using an electric stove with a container with hot stones placed on it.

Don't forget about safety precautions and enjoy the mini sauna you built with your own hands!

Do-it-yourself compact mini baths

Today, a private house or cottage is unthinkable without a bathhouse, which has become an indispensable component of country life. But what to do if there is not enough money to build a full-fledged bathhouse with all the attributes? Or is the plot so small that it is impossible to place a large building on it? For those who experience such problems, there is one solution - a mini sauna for the dacha.

What is better to choose – a ready-made or a homemade mini-bath?

Anyone who has a certain amount of money, but does not want to waste time and energy, can safely buy a miniature bathhouse that is completely ready for use. Otherwise, you will have to start building a mini bathhouse with your own hands. On the Russian market, ready-made mini bath projects are presented in a wide variety. Unfortunately, not all of them are of acceptable quality, so you need to be especially careful when choosing.

Products of this kind must meet the following requirements:

Small dimensions and weight

Ease of installation - the ability to do without constructing a capital foundation or laying additional communications

Ready for use quickly

Functionality combined with ease of use

Beautiful appearance (optional).

The most successful example is the mini bathhouse project called Emelya. It meets the above requirements as much as possible. Due to its low weight (only 500 kg), there are no problems with transportation and no capital foundation is required. Despite its compact size, Emelya’s mini bathhouse is equipped with everything necessary and includes all the traditional premises of a Russian bathhouse: dressing room, shower room and steam room. To start the sauna, a simple extension cord is enough, through which it is connected to the home electrical network. At the same time, the electric oven is made in a safe version, so you can use it without fear even while washing (see photo).

Inflatable bath models

Among the ready-made projects there are options for the lazy (see photo below). These are portable inflatable models. They are a soft, elastic body made of ultra-strong and lightweight polymers. To prepare such a bath, a few minutes and 2-3 simple operations are enough:

Connects to the pump and fills with air

Then all that remains is to fill the steam generator with water.

After use, the case is freed from air, collapses and can be stored in a regular sports bag. The complete set weighs only a few kilograms, so you can take the inflatable bathhouse with you anywhere. An inflatable mini sauna is especially good in a country house where there is no running water, sewerage and other amenities, without which it is impossible to build a regular sauna.

Do-it-yourself mini sauna is small frame construction, divided into functional zones by light partitions, the internal space of which is filled with insulation and waterproofing. To save volume, as a rule, modern materials are used that combine both of these properties. For example, roll insulation, covered on both sides (or one) with a layer of foil or membrane vapor barrier.

We build it ourselves - where to start?

On clay soils, a concrete pit will be required to collect and subsequently drain water into the drainage ditch. Since a small diameter pipe is used for this, the drain hole in the floor must be protected with a fine-mesh filter.

Then a frame is erected from vertically installed timber and a horizontal strapping system. The frame is covered with clapboard on both sides, and the internal space is filled with reliable insulation, resistant to water, or protected by hydro- and vapor barrier.

When using the bath small sizes The issue of saving free space is acute. This imposes certain requirements on the design of the shelves and oven. On the one hand, the stove must be powerful enough to heat the steam room well and quickly. On the other hand, maximum compactness is required.

You can purchase ready-made mini sauna stoves or make them yourself. Naturally, the first option is simpler, but also expensive, since the price of high-quality samples today ranges from 30 to 60 thousand rubles. depending on the country of manufacture and configuration. In general, factory models are a metal body-firebox, on top of which there is a platform for the heater. The water tank can be:

hinged, when it is mounted on the side surface of the body and heating occurs due to heat transfer directly from the firebox

separate, in this case it is installed at a height, and the chimney acts as a coolant, through which combustion products are removed from the firebox.

You can assemble a mini sauna stove yourself. Moreover, this will not require special skills and abilities, but the savings will be significant. For those who are interested, we will briefly describe the technological process of creating the simple option stoves for a small bath.

A simple version of a homemade stove for a mini steam room

The main element is a regular cast iron sink. First, its surface must be completely cleaned of enamel, which, when burned, will give off an unpleasant odor.

Then the firebox body is prepared - it is made up of bricks laid in 9 rows, as shown in the figure. In order to comply with measures fire safety, at the place where the furnace is planned to be installed, first lay a flat asbestos cement slate, on top of which a sheet of metal about 1 mm thick is attached.

Next, three lower rows of continuous masonry are made. The bricks are laid on a clay-sand mortar with a joint thickness of 3 to 5 mm. After this, three walls are built into one brick. One wall is missing, since instead there will be an open firebox, that is, a hole for loading firewood, without a door. To make it easier to form the firebox, you can use a special frame welded from corners. Bricks are laid into its grooves using the “poke” method.

The dimensions of the oven are selected in such a way as to ensure that the sink can be tightly installed on lateral ribs rigidity, as shown in the figure above. The drain hole should be located near the wall opposite the open firebox. This is a mandatory condition, since this hole is used to remove flue gases. For this purpose, a pipe of suitable diameter and length of at least 2.5 m is inserted into it.

Water in a bathhouse equipped with such a stove can be heated in several buckets installed next to the heater, but it is better to make a 40-50 liter tank, which is placed directly on the stones. In summer, you can even get by with a container on the roof where the water is heated by the sun’s rays. It is advisable to make the shelves in a small bathhouse removable or folding, with fastening to the wall through a hinge device. This allows for more efficient use of the limited footage of the steam room.

Installation of mini baths in garden and summer cottages

People's need for bath procedures ah is so high that the possibilities for improving the bathhouse are sought with great ingenuity.

It is known that baths are equipped on car trailers, ships, submarines and even in spacecraft. Temporary baths are set up at the camps of tourists, prospectors, and field camps.

It is quite natural that in summer cottages and gardens, and even in apartments, they also set up simple bathhouses that allow you to steam and wash. They are called mini-baths.

Let's consider two options for a mini-bath installed in the bathroom using electric heating.

The first version of a mini-bath

In the first option for installing a bathhouse, at a height of 1-1.3 m from the floor (0.4-0.6 m above the bathtub), a removable shelf is mounted on two beams nailed to the walls with strong pins.

The width of the shelf is 55-60 cm. To climb onto it, use ladder with rubber bearings. The ladder is tied to the shelf with a rope.

An electric stove with stones is installed on a stand above the sink.

The stand must have its own support on the floor to protect the sink from destruction.

The second version of the bathhouse

In the second option, the shelves are made to sit, and the bath is covered with removable wooden panels that you can stand on.

To place your legs in a raised position, hang a planed block or stick at a distance of an outstretched leg from the shelf. To climb onto the bathtub, you can use a low bench or stool.

To assemble a bathhouse on outdoors Instead of shields, it is necessary to make insulated lightweight panels.

To do this, frames measuring 185x65 cm are made from beams with a cross-section of 3x6 cm and sheathed with boards 1-1.2 cm thick.

Before covering the panels, they are filled with foam plastic, mineral wool or straw, covering them on the inside with aluminum foil or polyethylene film (moisture and vapor barrier), and on the outside with roofing felt or glassine.

The number of shields depends on the required size of the steam room.

One panel contains a door with a built-in window. At the same time, the height of the threshold is 20 cm, the dimensions of the door are 160×60 cm, the dimensions of the window are 36×25 cm.

The window must have double glazing.

To ensure the tightness of the closure, the locks on the door are made in two places: below and above. At the bottom of the panel where the electric stove is installed, a ventilation hole is made that is closed with a valve or plug.

From 12 panels (10 for walls and 2 for ceilings) a steam room with internal dimensions of 130x180 cm is assembled, in which you can equip a shelf-bed.

For a steam room with internal dimensions of 130x110 cm with a bench shelf, it is enough to have 10 panels or 8 panels measuring 185x56 cm (for walls) and 1 panel measuring 130x150 cm for the ceiling.

The seams of the panel are sealed with batting and covered on both sides with wooden slats.

The outside of the ceiling is covered with 2-3 layers of roofing material.

Bath floor design

The design of the floor depends on the location of the mini-bath. If it is placed in an open area and is intended for use only in summer, then the floor can be made of boards without additional insulation.

For use in winter, the foundation must be strip or have insulated lintels that protect against blowing from below. If a mini-bath is installed indoors, then the main requirement for the floor is to ensure proper insulation from leakage, collection and direction of wastewater into the sewer.

Heating devices in the bath

As heating device They use a closed-type electric stove with a power of 2-3 kW, on which they place a metal box, bucket or jar with stones.

To warm up the steam room to 80-90° C, the tile is turned on for several hours, and before the bath procedures it is turned off for safety. Before heating the room, remove all metal, plastic and flammable objects, curtains, curtains.

Metal objects heat up quickly and can cause burns if you come into contact with them.

Plastic objects deform at high temperatures.

Curtains and drapes make it difficult to heat the room and are a fire hazard.

How to speed up heating of a bath

To speed up heating, you can use an additionally installed electric heater.

By creating artificial air circulation, it ensures more uniform heating of all parts of the room. In this case, the power of the electric stove with stones can be reduced to 1.2 kW.

It’s even better to heat the stones on a gas stove in the kitchen, placing them in a mesh container made of thick steel wire, then put them in a metal bucket with a lid and bring them into the steam room.

If there is a source of hot water, for example, a gas water heater located in an adjacent room (kitchen), you can speed up the heating of the mini-bath by filling the bath with hot water. In this case, the bathtub should be covered with a wooden board or grate covered with film (oilcloth) to reduce water evaporation and prevent increased air humidity.

Mini-sauna - economy option

In order to make a sauna in the shortest possible time, we offer the option of a small mini-sauna, which can be built in one month and immediately begin to be used. This is an important factor, since a log bathhouse must be kept for about a year before use for its walls to shrink.

The dimensions of the mini-bath may well suit a family of two or three people (Fig. 12). The steam room, combined with a washing room, is equipped with a two-level shelf. There is a shower, the water tank of which is located on the roof of the bathhouse.

The structure of the mini-bath frame is similar to that described above, so during its construction you can use the same structural components and elements. The main feature of the proposed mini-bath is a small stove-heater, which can be made without much expense or difficulty.

It is based on an old kitchen cast-iron sink, installed with ribs along the perimeter on brickwork, that is, the sink is lined with brickwork on three sides, and on the side opposite the drain hole, an open (without door) heater firebox is installed. The bottom double row of bricks is laid out on a metal sheet 1 mm thick, which in turn is laid on a flat sheet of asbestos slate.

This protects the floor from fire. To improve the heat transfer of the stove stones, as well as to eliminate unpleasant odors in a bathhouse to prevent the enamel from burning out, the sink must be cleaned of it before placing it in the oven. For the flue gas trunk, a sink drain hole is used, into which you need to install a metal section of a chimney pipe with a diameter of 60-80 mm and a length of 2.5 m, on which to attach the upper part of the chimney, individual sections of which can be made independently from sheet steel 0.8- 1 mm.

The small dimensions of the heater (Fig. 13) (750 x 500 x 720 mm) allow you to arrange half a room in the steam room. The brickwork of the heater stove should be done using clay-sand mortar with a seam thickness of 3-5 mm. To form a firebox, a frame of 65 * 65 mm is welded from a corner, into the grooves of which bricks are placed on a stick along the perimeter. Thus, the cast-iron sink, resting on these bricks, forms the combustion chamber of the heater stove. Stones placed on top of the sink heat up very quickly both from the walls of the sink and from the metal chimney, which allows you to quickly heat up a small volume of the steam room (5.5 m3).

Water for bath procedures can be heated either in several buckets installed on the side of the heater, or in a tank with a capacity of 40-50 liters. IN summer period A small tank (80-100 l) for showering will be placed on the roof of the bathhouse. The drainage of water must be done in the area of ​​the second shelf of the shelf, arranging a drainage hole and draining the water before installing the floor.

When starting the construction of both a capital family bathhouse and a small bathhouse, the owner of a rural farmstead must also perform some work on its external and internal arrangement, which is directly related to the operation of the bathhouse. Such work includes a drainage system for removing used water, installing a shelf in the steam room and laying out the chimney of the heater.

A drainage hole is made before laying the logs and bathhouse floor boards. This is a serious matter, since poor water drainage can damage the bathhouse.

If the soil on the site is sandy or sandy-gravel, that is, it easily absorbs water, then under the bathhouse it is enough to dig a regular drainage hole, the dimensions of which usually depend on the size of the structure and water consumption. For example, if a family of 3-4 people will use the bathhouse, it is enough to make a hole 70 x 70 cm and 60 cm deep. The drainage hole is filled with broken bricks, large crushed stone or gravel. Around the pit, the soil is compacted with a wooden tamper and covered with roofing felt with a slight slope on all sides towards the pit.

In the case of clay soil, draining used water from the bathhouse will require much more work and expense. Instead of a drainage pit, a concrete pit measuring 50 x 50 is required; 60 x 60 cm, depth 50-60 cm and wall thickness 10-12 cm. To drain water from the pit, you can use a drain pipe with a diameter of 50-70 cm. It must be placed at a distance of about 10 cm from the bottom of the pit. It is necessary to install a float water seal in it so that unpleasant odors do not penetrate into the bathhouse. A fine-mesh filter must be installed in the drain hole of the bathhouse floor, located above the pit, to prevent clogging drain pipe garbage.

The shelves are installed after laying the floor and installing the heater on it. In a small steam room (especially in a mini-bath), it is advisable to make the shelves either folding (hinged) or completely removable, which will ensure more rational use of the limited footage of the steam room. In addition, removable shelves can be removed for cleaning and drying.

Only completely smooth boards and planks are suitable for arranging a shelf. The boards must not be impregnated or coated with any varnishes, solutions, or paints. All edges, especially the outer ones, should be rounded. It is advisable to arrange the shelves from wood species with soft and non-resinous wood (linden, aspen, poplar), since the boards from them heat up less.

In a small steam room you can build two-tier shelves (Fig. 14), and for large family baths - three-tier ones. Shelves are usually arranged along a wall that does not have a window, and the size of the upper tier should be taken based on the average height of a person, that is, 175-185 cm long and 65-70 cm wide.

The upper floor should be placed approximately at the same level with the stove stones so that the space around it warms up faster and better. The height between the top shelf and the ceiling of the bathhouse should be sufficient to make it convenient to steam with a broom, that is, 100-110 cm.

The second shelf should be located from the floor at approximately 70-80 cm, its width should be 45-50 cm. Portable wide and stable benches are placed near the two-tier shelf to make it easy to get down and climb onto the desired tier. For the same purposes, sometimes a small, reliable ladder is installed.

On shelves, to fasten boards together, it is necessary to use copper-plated or galvanized nails and screws, the heads of which must be sunk into the wood. The thickness of the boards depends on the distance between the supports on which they rest. The greater this distance, the thicker the board should be. For example, a board with a thickness of 20 mm is used with a distance between supports of 500 mm, 25 mm - respectively with 900 mm, and boards with a thickness of 40 mm can be used with a distance of 1200-1300 mm.

Mini baths in the country: how to make it yourself

The water in the mini bath is heated using a stove installed in the steam room. You can also use a heating element for these purposes, which can be easily purchased in a store.

Who hasn’t dreamed of building a real bathhouse on their summer cottage? But sometimes it is so small that a full-fledged bath structure simply cannot be squeezed in there. In this case, a mini-sauna can be an excellent way out of the situation. In terms of comfort and functionality, it practically does not differ from a standard-sized bathhouse, and the time, effort and money to build such a structure will take much less. In addition, it is quite possible to make a small bathhouse with your own hands. This will be discussed further.

Features of designing the interior space of a bathhouse

When creating any project, the first step is to select the appropriate material for the construction of the structure. And the bathhouse is no exception in this matter. Thus, when constructing a bath structure, builders mainly use materials such as foam blocks, bricks, timber or solid logs. Professionals recommend giving preference to natural materials – wood. But this is no longer a matter of taste, but of financial capabilities.

When designing a small bathhouse, it is necessary to adhere to the same technologies as when planning a bathhouse of standard sizes. But in our case, it is still important to take into account some points:

1. To build a small bathhouse, a powerful, complex foundation is absolutely not required, since we are talking about small loads. Therefore, in order to facilitate the excavation process and reduce the cost of funds, it is quite possible to get by with a strip/support-pile one.
2. The location of functional areas should be approached very seriously, since in a small structure, all the flaws and imperfect layout will be immediately noticeable and will certainly cause inconvenience.
3. It is best to place the stove in the dressing room so that it does not interfere with going from the washing room to the steam room and vice versa. The firebox must be protected as much as possible from spontaneous combustion.
4. The principle of building rooms in a mini-bath should be absolutely the same as that of a standard one. So, the shelves must be installed along a blank wall, the door threshold should be raised as high as possible, and the frame should be made low. All this is done with the aim of trapping steam inside even when the door is opened.
5. Under no circumstances should there be locks in bath rooms, and all doors should only open outwards.

Attention! To make it convenient to wash and comfortably steam in a bathhouse, the area of ​​the structure must be calculated in such a way that its useful part is at least 10 square meters. m.

Basic drawing of a mini bath: a compact and functional solution for a summer residence

So let's consider simplest project bath design. Any bathhouse should have four main rooms: a dressing room, a washing room, a steam room and a relaxation room. It is necessary to clearly understand what minimum dimensions each of them can have. So, for the waiting room and steam room you can choose optimal sizes– 1.5x2 m; the washing area can be 1x1 m; and the rest room is 2 times larger than the washing room.

Construction of the foundation

After determining all the main parameters bath rooms You can proceed directly to construction work. Choosing suitable type foundation, pay special attention to the type of soil of the area on which the bathhouse will be built. If the soil is hard enough and the groundwater is deep, then a lightweight foundation will be sufficient. We lay flat stones around the markings of the future building, cover them with a small layer of clay and lightly press them. We lay wooden beams on top. We complete the process by covering the beams with waterproofing bitumen.

If there is soft or wet soil on the site, use a strip foundation. Prepare a trench, fill it with a layer of sand, then crushed stone and compact it tightly. Then place the reinforcing mesh on top. All that remains is to prepare a cement solution with which the pit will need to be filled. Don’t forget about waterproofing: roofing felt sheets can be used for this purpose.

Frame construction

There are many options for constructing bath walls. We will use the simplest and fastest - frame. For its construction we will need the following materials:

• wooden blocks (5x5 cm);
• boards (minimum thickness – 2.5 cm);
• foil/film for waterproofing;
• thermal insulation.

Frame mini bath: the simplest and fastest construction option

According to a previously prepared project, a frame of beams is assembled. The inside is lined with boards. You can use ordinary screws or anchors as fasteners. Don't forget about heat and waterproofing. The first thing we install is a material that does not allow heat from the bathhouse to pass out. For this purpose, you can use expanded clay, sawdust or mineral wool (rarely used). Bitumen mastic is suitable for creating a waterproofing layer. The final stage of wall construction is the internal board covering (not mandatory, but a desirable element).

Advice. For finishing the washing area, it is best to use materials that can withstand frequent contact with water: galvanized steel, polystyrene, etc.

All that's left to do is build the roof. First, we prepare the rafter system and mount it on the frame. Then we begin laying the roof: metal tiles, slate, etc. will do. Don't forget about the chimney - you need to leave a free opening on the roof for it.

To complete the appearance of the bathhouse, lining or a block house is used as a protective and at the same time decorative element. Lining is the most common option for finishing the external frame of a bathhouse. This material is cheap, practical and durable. In addition, it is a fairly successful imitation of a wooden beam. The block house is similar in appearance to the lining, but differs in a more presentable appearance and quality of wood.

A mini bathhouse externally lined with wood will delight you with its aesthetically pleasing

Conducting communications

We have finished decorating the bathhouse, all that remains is to carry out communications. Let's start with the water and sewerage system. The water supply system (we use the gravity principle) is installed as follows:

1. We prepare two 50-liter water tanks, as well as a hose and mixers.
2. We install the containers so that the cold water tank is half a meter higher than the hot water tank.
3. We connect the tanks with a hose: connect one end to the bottom of the “cold” tank, and the other to the top of the “hot” tank.
4. As an additional connecting element we use a pipe with a mixer.

To ensure complete drainage of water after a bath “session”, it is necessary to design an effective drainage system. This is quite easy to do. You just need to dig drainage well not far from the bathhouse, and make drain holes in the washing room, to which pipes should be brought at a slight angle and directed to the well.

Diagram of one of the options for connecting communications to a mini bath

A mini-oven or heating element is quite suitable for heating water in the washing room. To ensure sufficient air ventilation in the bathhouse, it is enough to make several wall holes near the entrance and close them with special barriers.

At this point, the process of constructing a mini-bath for a summer residence can be considered complete. Follow the instructions in this article and you will be able to build a convenient and quality sauna for your family.

Video: Do-it-yourself mini sauna for your dacha

remodelo.ru

Do-it-yourself mini-sauna. Mini-bath construction technology

The Russian bathhouse is an integral part of national traditions, as well as a place where one can improve one’s health and gain a boost of vigor and strength. Many owners suburban areas dream of having a bathhouse on their territory, but give up their dream because... They believe that buying or building it will cost a considerable amount, and will also take up too much of the yard. But it turns out that it is possible to build an inexpensive compact bathhouse, the so-called mini version, with your own hands.

Mini bath: the better to insulate a homemade structure

A mini bathhouse is a small structure compared to a full-fledged bathhouse, somewhat inferior in capabilities, but quite acceptable for home use by one or two people.

Foam plastic is an inexpensive and high-quality solution for thermal insulation. Today, many people underestimate its properties, but a layer of this material, 12 cm thick, performs its function with the same success as mineral wool laid out in an eighteen-centimeter layer or wood 45 cm thick.

The range of temperatures with which foam plastic copes well ranges from -100 to +80 degrees, despite the fact that such a temperature does not allow even lightly touching the surface.

Let's consider the option of building a mini bathhouse for a summer residence using the example of a structure that is 3 meters long, 2.5 meters wide, and 2.1 meters high. It will consist of two rooms of equal size - a dressing room and a steam room.

Materials needed to build a homemade mini sauna

Before building a mini sauna, you should prepare all the necessary materials:

• beams with a section of 10x10 cm, 3 m in length - 25 pcs.;
• edged boards 2 cm thick - 1.5 cubic meters;
• edged floor boards 4 cm thick - 0.3 cubic meters;
• construction foam 10 cm thick - 33 square meters;
• beams for rafters 10x5 cm, 2 m long - 8 pcs.;
• 2 cylinders of polyurethane foam;

• cement for the foundation - 4 bags of 50 kg;
• roofing material, such as slate or roofing felt, or tiles - 15 square meters;
• lining - 0.37 cubic meters;
• aluminum foil for vapor barrier - 20 square meters;
• siding – 23 square meters;
• bricks for the stove – 250 pcs. or heating element;
• door that will close the oven - 1 pc.;
• two tanks, the dimensions of which are 37x32x12 cm.

Self-construction of a mini bath

The process of erecting a bath structure consists of the following stages:

• in the garden area, select a place for the future bathhouse. It should be located as far as possible from residential buildings;
• draw up a mini bath project. It should include a detailed diagram printed on paper, all the details of the frame with dimensions;

• take a piece of string and use it to mark the perimeter of the future foundation and drive small stakes into its corners. In our case, the perimeter will be 3x2.5 meters;
• then mark the place that the stove foundation will occupy, for us it is 75x60 cm;
• In the four corners marked with stakes, dig holes about one and a half meters deep. Their diameter will depend on the width of your shovel;
• in the same way, dig recesses for the foundation for the furnace, their depth should be the same;
• in four dug holes, install formwork under the foundation, measuring 30x30 cm. It should rise 20-25 cm above the surface;
• pour concrete into the formwork of both foundations;
• after two weeks, remove the formwork and fill the resulting voids with soil. The foundation should be covered with roofing felt, this is necessary for waterproofing;
• Next, assemble the frame mini bath, guided by the previously drawn up project: nail the rafters, then the boards, lay the roofing material;
• Next, install the window and door;

• Cover the frame on the inside with a board;
• When laying the flooring, do not forget to leave a hole for the stove;
• Cut out pieces of foam to the required size and cover all surfaces of the walls and ceiling with them. Fill the resulting void between the joints with polyurethane foam;
• cover the outside of the building with boards;
• Cover the walls and ceiling of the steam room with a vapor barrier, in our case it is foil;
• after this, cover the walls and ceilings of both rooms with clapboard;
• This is followed by laying the stove or installing a heating element. If you are doing masonry, then follow the diagram:

• at the last stage, cover the entire surface of the structure from the outside with siding.

Arrangement of communications

If your country home does not have running water, then the flow of water into your homemade bathhouse is done by gravity. To do this, you should stock up on hoses, mixers and two 50-liter tanks.

The “hot” and “cold” tanks are located with a difference of half a meter in height, the “hot” one is higher, the “cold” one is lower. The hose is connected to both tanks: one end to the bottom of the “cold” tank, and the other end to the top of the “hot” tank.

Different temperatures in both tanks will allow the water to circulate through the pipeline on its own. In order to supply water to the shower from one tank to another, a separate pipe equipped with a tap is pulled.

To arrange the water drainage, you need to dig a drain hole and purchase drainage pipes. If they are installed at an angle, the sewage water will run into the hole.

The drainage system is arranged as follows:

• Not far from the bathhouse building, dig a hole the size of a square meter. It is necessary to find out in advance the distance to which the soil freezes in your area. If it is 60 cm and above, then the hole needs to be dug to a depth of about 1.5 meters;
• fill this hole with either small pieces of bricks, or crushed stone, or expanded clay. The level of the selected material should be approximately 50 cm higher than the distance over which the ground freezes;
• Cover the remaining distance to the top with earth and compact it thoroughly.

All work must be carried out in strict compliance with technological standards, otherwise the drainage system will freeze and water will accumulate in the pipeline and in the underground. It will be impossible to use the bathhouse, and the floors will begin to rot.

If the soil does not absorb water very well, then you should not dig a hole for sewerage. It is better to arrange a direct flow so that the water flows out through the pipeline. To do this, you need a pit, the manufacture of which can be made from any materials, the main condition is complete tightness, otherwise all the odors characteristic of sewage drains will poison your stay in the bathhouse. Water from the pit will flow down the slope. A drain with a pit is usually equipped with a water seal:

• Having retreated 90-120 mm from the bottom, insert a pipe to drain the water. Install the plate on its three sides without attaching it;
• the plate should not reach the bottom by 50-60 mm. Due to this, a water seal appears that does not let odors into the bathhouse.

When arranging communications, do not forget about such an important point as ventilation. The riser is made of a metal pipe with a diameter of 100 mm. A cap or deflector is placed on top of it.

Most often, dense polyethylene pipes are used for these purposes; PVC is not suitable in this case. To the sewer system from such pipes it is possible to connect not only a steam room and a washing room, but also a toilet, if provided for by the project.

There are two types of flooring in the bathhouse:

• leaky;
• leak-proof.

In the first option, the boards are laid, leaving gaps of half a centimeter, and not attached too tightly, they should lie freely. This installation option allows them to dry if necessary. Also, the boards of leaking floors are located at an angle. This allows the water to drain into the pan underneath and from there into the pit.

Bath sewer systems come in three types:

• gravity;
• non-pressure;
• connected to the sewer.

All these systems can be installed without the help of specialists. For this, thin-walled plastic and shaped pipes, 5-10 cm thick, are used. They are connected to each other with seals, which must be of high quality to ensure complete tightness of the connections. The drainage system must be designed in such a way that it has a minimum of branches. The sewer pipe is led out of the building to the outside, into a discharge pipe located in the ground, at a greater distance from the surface than the freezing depth of the soil.

Heating a mini bath

Water can be heated in two ways:

• using a mini sauna stove installed in the steam room;
• through a heating element purchased in a store.

If you decide to install a stove, you will need to purchase a U-shaped pipe and, going around the base of the chimney, place it in the hottest place of the stove. In this case, the end of the pipe from which water is supplied must be located on the body, and the outlet end must be located 50 mm above it.

A simpler solution is a heating element. It is installed under the tank containing cold water, and are connected to the system using stainless steel hoses and pipes.

Arrangement of ventilation and light in the mini bath

Mini baths, photos of which are presented on the page, can have different sizes and appearance. Often, to ensure good ventilation in them, you do not have to spend money on various devices. You just need to cut out a small window in the door and screw a door or shutter to it.

To illuminate the mini bath room, halogen lamps should be installed. You just need to purchase those that have a heat-resistant case. By connecting the lighting system to a small transformer, you can reduce the voltage to 12V.

The dimensions of the mini bath, as well as the number of rooms in it, may vary depending on your requirements, preferences and the size of the area that you can allocate for construction.

recn.ru

Do-it-yourself or custom-made mini sauna for your dacha

If the area is so small that it seems impossible to squeeze in a bathhouse, build a compact structure. A mini sauna for a dacha is in no way inferior to a large one in terms of comfort and convenience. To build a mini bathhouse you won’t need a lot of materials, so you can build such a structure for your dacha with your own hands at minimal cost. Often, novice builders are interested in what place to allocate a mini bathhouse on the site, what dimensions and materials are needed for construction.

Options for country baths

Which is better to build a mini bathhouse on a summer cottage?

Frame

A compact bathhouse based on a frame made of lightweight insulated panels in the form of a wooden frame is easy to assemble. There is no need to build a foundation for it. A layer of insulation and waterproofing materials are placed in the space between the frames, and then the frame is sheathed with boards or other materials. At the location of the steam room, insulation is laid in several layers. This allows you to make a high-quality steam room.

How to make a frame bath

Log

Fans of hot steam prefer a log mini sauna, where you can wash all year round. But for it you will have to build a foundation. If you are ready to allocate a decent amount from your budget, pay attention to this option.

Mini sauna in a country house

If the area of ​​the house allows, select a small corner for a mini-bath or equip it in the bathroom. To do this, the room is insulated and removable shelves are made. The walls and ceiling are covered with clapboard. Heating is carried out using an electric furnace or heater.

Note! It is better to buy a special stove designed for built-in baths, with a container for stones.

The room must be equipped with good ventilation. The door from such a bathhouse should go out onto the street.

Bathhouse barrel

The choice of many summer residents is a barrel bath. This is a barrel-shaped log house, assembled from tongue-and-groove boards and tightly tied with clamps. Since there are no corners, the air circulates according to the principle of convection, so the room quickly heats up. Thanks to its rounded shape, the mini bathhouse is ventilated from all sides, which helps to avoid rotting of the building. The structure is installed on the beams, which are necessarily impregnated with anti-rot compounds. Such designs can be purchased ready-made by choosing a minimal design for a mini bath that can accommodate 2 people at the same time.

There are many options for mini baths. Some summer residents even equip mobile bathhouses on wheels.

A mobile sauna trailer is an ideal option for small plot.

Calculation

Before building a mini bathhouse for your dacha, make a sketch of the project or at least sketch out a schematic plan. You should display:

• where the main facilities will be located;
• Dimensions of the mini bath premises.

The compact dimensions of a bathhouse in a country house are calculated based on the number of people. Can be picked up finished project mini baths for any quantity. Competent design for a mini bathhouse will reduce construction time.

Sizing

When they begin to build a mini bathhouse with their own hands, many novice builders think about the best dimensions to make. In typical projects for mini baths, the dimensions are:

• length 6 m;
• height – 2 m;
• width – 2.2 m.

Standard mini-bath plan

Inside, the mini bathhouse at the dacha is divided into functional rooms:

• dressing room 2 x 2 m;
• shower or sink 1.5 x 2;
• steam room 1.5 x 2 meters.

Ready-made, purchased structures have these dimensions; you need to build your own project based on your desires and capabilities.

Correct calculation of the dimensions of the bathhouse premises is very important.

Then you must think about what kind of foundation you will make. If your site has fairly hard and dry soil, you can make a lightweight base.

If the soil is weak, then there is no doubt about the choice of foundation option - only strip foundation. To do this, dig a trench, fill it with sand and gravel, compact them well. Then lay the reinforcing mesh and fill everything with concrete mortar.

A columnar foundation is also suitable for a mini bath. If the building is installed on stilts, careful thermal insulation of the floor will be required.

Walling

When building a mini bathhouse, you cannot do without erecting walls. The most economical way is frame walls. First you need to line the inside with clapboard. Then thermal insulation is formed. Mineral wool is suitable for it; sawdust with clay; expanded clay

Advice! Add broken glass to the insulation to protect it from rodents.

Cover the thermal insulation with polystyrene sheets. Covering the outside with clapboard or siding will complete the wall construction work. You can choose the finishing of the building in the same style as the house.

Walls finished with molding look very beautiful

If you decide to build a small log bathhouse, choose wood from pine or other coniferous species. Knowing what requirements different tree species must meet, you can easily choose a material that meets your requirements for a mini bath.

Floor

It is better to make the floor from waterproof materials. Most often, wooden floors are installed in the bathhouse. They are made with a slope so that water flows into a drainage basin and then flows through a plastic or metal pipe into a septic tank or drainage system.

Before laying the floors, the boards must be treated with an antiseptic. Tiled tiles are also suitable for finishing the floor in a bathhouse. To prevent slipping, wooden gratings are installed on it.

Schematic construction plan

Roof

Roofs for bathhouses used only in the summer can be made without an attic. They are easy to build and much cheaper. To make a roof, you first need to decide on the material. For a small structure, the roof should be covered with a lightweight material; ondulin, concrete tiles or metal tiles are most suitable. The insulation material for the ceiling is taken twice as thick as for the walls, since heat rises upward.

The roof of a mini barrel bath can be covered with tiles.

https://youtu.be/qZ7FCMx48N0

Communications

Communications in a mini bath are often arranged according to a simple principle: the soil under the floor is dug out with a slight slope to the side to drain water from the bath in the right direction and covered with clay. When arranging the floor, a small space is created between the ground and the floor. When laying boards, gaps of 0.5 to 1 cm are left between them.

This is a very old method, it is not labor-intensive and simple, but a wooden floor, even treated with an antiseptic, quickly begins to rot from exposure to water and steam. Therefore, it is better to make modern communications and build ventilation, which will help avoid rotting.

Ventilation

The ventilation system in the bathhouse delivers fresh air and ensures quick and high-quality drying. To install ventilation in a small bathhouse, you can do without additional devices. How to do it? You can simply install a window in the main compartment or make ventilation holes for fresh air. They are usually installed opposite the opposite walls of the steam room.

Adjustable flap for ventilation

If your budget allows, it is better to install mechanical ventilation. It filters the incoming air and helps maintain the microclimate in the bathhouse at the desired level. For this purpose, fans are installed in the room.

Finishing

Proper finishing of a bathhouse will help not only to create a beautiful interior - it will also insulate the bathhouse and increase the durability of the structure. The most common option is finishing the interior walls with clapboard. Experts recommend using hardwood boards. It has a low heat capacity, so such walls do not heat up, and all the heat goes into the room.

Table. Finishing requirements interior spaces mini baths

Room type	Requirements	The better to finish
Floor	Walls	Ceiling
Waiting room	No requirements	Wooden boards or tiles. You can install underfloor heating.	Any, at your discretion.	Any
Washing	Requires finishing with easily washable materials	Ceramic tiles with non-slip surface and drainage.	Covering with linden clapboard, as it is resistant to rot.	Painting with moisture-resistant paints, or finishing with clapboard.
Steam room	It is necessary to treat the wood with fire retardant and antiseptic agents.	Porcelain tiles with wooden panels	Deciduous wood paneling.	Deciduous wood paneling

If you use ventilation in the walls in the bathhouse, you need to decorate it with beautiful plugs.

Arrangement

What is a bathhouse without hot water? It is heated in tanks that are built into the furnace, placed next to it or placed on a pipe. For a mini bath, a remote option is more suitable. Water from the tank can be scooped with a ladle, or a pipe with a mixer can be made.

How to make a remote hot water tank

To arrange water drainage, you need to make a recess in the floor and install drainage holes at an angle.

Furnaces

You can’t do a sauna without a stove. It is not at all necessary to lay out a large brick oven, for which it is necessary to build a foundation. Metal stoves with hot water tanks are now available for sale. A small wood-burning stove with a dual convection system heats up quickly, but does not retain heat for long and is easy to burn on.

Metal stove for mini-sauna with heater

Electric stoves are very convenient; they do not require a pipe through which smoke comes out. But they need complex installation. To set up a steam room, a steam room in a mini sauna in a country house is usually made without windows. The main elements in it are the stove and shelves.

How to make a stove with your own hands

Lighting

Also, to equip a bathhouse, it is necessary to provide lighting for the premises. The light should be such that all objects are clearly visible. LED lamps in the bathhouse are unacceptable; hot air and steam can cause them to quickly break down. The best and safest solution for bathhouse lighting may be fiber optic cable. It is better to make sockets only in the waiting room.

Don't forget about legal documents. Before building a mini sauna, you must obtain a construction permit from the relevant authorities.

jsnip.ru

Do-it-yourself bathhouse in the country: step-by-step instructions

A trip to the dacha is a joyful event, since there you can do some gardening or landscaping, and then relax by taking a steam bath, provided that there is one there. We will tell you how to properly make a bathhouse at your dacha with your own hands, demonstrate drawings, diagrams and photo instructions. It will take a lot of work, but it will be worth it.

In your imagination, you probably already see how you approach the bathhouse, open the door and find yourself in a warm and cozy dressing room, and then in the steam room. Yes! This is exactly what will happen, but a little later. First you need:

• choose a suitable project;
• get acquainted with the stages of construction;
• purchase building materials;
• build a bathhouse and install all communications;
• do the interior finishing and only then worry about it.

If, after reading the introduction, you still have the desire to make a bathhouse at your dacha, then we will continue the topic, considering all stages of construction.

Choosing a place to build a bathhouse

You need to choose the right place for the bathhouse

Often, summer cottages are not large in size, but in addition to personal preferences and convenience, there are also standards that must be adhered to. Let's look at preferences first.

1. It would be better to place the bathhouse on a hill, which would greatly simplify the organization of water drainage.
2. It’s good when the bathhouse is located next to a pond or river.
3. The rays of the setting sun penetrating into the steam room through the window will relieve stress, but at the same time it is necessary to make sure that the entrance to the bathhouse is clearly visible from the window country house. This way you can watch the heating of the bathhouse and the children, especially when a swimming pool is built in front of the entrance.
4. The bathhouse can be made as an extension to the house.

To avoid conflict situations with authorities or neighbors, you must comply with the requirements of SNiP 30-02-97. By paying attention to section 6, paragraphs 6, 7 and 8, you will find comprehensive information on the placement of the building on the site, but we will provide only the numbers that you will need in order to choose the optimal location for the bathhouse.

Taking into account fire safety measures for buildings located on opposite sides of the passage, you must adhere to the distances indicated in the table:

As for the requirements regarding distances to the neighboring site, they are also unambiguous.

It is also important to take into account the requirements for the location of buildings on your site - showers, baths and saunas must be located at a distance of at least 8 m from the garden house.

By the way, failure to comply with these standards can lead to a lawsuit with a neighbor and the demolition or relocation of the bathhouse to another location.

Bathhouse project

When choosing a bathhouse project, it is important to consider the material from which it will be built. There can be several types of structure:

1. Frame bath.
2. Wooden bathhouse (made of timber or rounded logs).
3. Bathhouse made of brick, stone or blocks.
4. Wood concrete structure.

Having decided on the material, when choosing a project, make sure that it suits you according to all the criteria.

Layout of a small bathhouse 6×3 m

Layout option for a log bath

Planning a bathhouse for a summer residence

Bathhouse plan 6x6 m

Material selection

So, having chosen a suitable project, you need to prepare building materials in accordance with its requirements.

• Most often, summer residents prefer to erect frame buildings, since they are the cheapest and successfully cope with their task. In addition, due to the low weight of such a structure, you won’t have to spend a lot on the foundation either.
• The most favorite buildings are wooden ones. The cost of such a building will be slightly higher, and the foundation will need to be made stronger, unlike a frame structure. Built in a country house is good wooden sauna does not need insulation.
• Stone and brick are rarely used to build a bathhouse in a country house. This is due to the fact that such a heavy structure requires a strong foundation, and the walls freeze during long absences and such a bathhouse needs to be heated for a long time. The exception is buildings made of foam and gas blocks. The requirements for the strength of the foundation are not so high, the walls are warm, but it is important to take into account that this building material is very hygroscopic, so it must be protected from moisture.
• Wood concrete is also often used in the construction of baths. The walls can be monolithic or built from blocks. The structure is warm, durable and inexpensive.

Wall materials

Since our article deals with several possible options for using various building materials, we will consider them separately.

Frame structure

The material for the frame bath should be good quality, and the bars are dry and even

The walls of such a bathhouse are made in a lattice structure. For the frame walls you will need:

• Timber of various sections, the dimensions and quantity of which are indicated in the project.
• Insulation material with high thermal insulation qualities for filling the frame. Again, you need to adhere to the requirements regarding the use of one or another insulation material, but here you need to take into account that the documentation often indicates one type of material, but not all possible ones. If the specified material is too expensive, then you can turn to the forums to find out what is acceptable in your region.
• Material for covering the frame outside and inside. Most often for external cladding buildings are used OSB boards, edged board, siding or block house, while lining is used on the inside.

Wooden sauna

Using a rounded log, you can build a bathhouse very quickly, since everything is prepared in advance at the factory

For the construction of walls the following can be used:

• Natural debarked wood.
• Edged timber.
• Profiled timber.
• Glued laminated timber.
• Rounded log.

Bathhouse made of brick, stone or blocks

The walls of such a bath can be made of the following materials:

• Brick (ceramic or silicate).
• Stone (rubble, limestone, shell rock).
• Block (foam, slag, gas blocks).

Wood concrete structure

Arbolite is durable and lightweight, therefore it is also often used in construction work

If you can buy sawdust inexpensively (or maybe you have your own), then at home it is quite possible to make wood concrete blocks of fairly high quality. This building material is also available for sale in the form of ready-made blocks. The walls are erected very quickly. Another advantage of using wood concrete is the possibility of producing monolithic walls by pouring cement-bonded mortar into the formwork.

Materials for the ceiling in the bathhouse

The dressing room and rest room are warm rooms, therefore it is recommended to use materials with low thermal conductivity - aspen, linden or alder.

To cover the ceiling of the steam room, it is preferable to use wooden lining, as it can withstand high temperatures. Products made from pine or spruce cannot be used in this room; when heated, resin begins to release from this wood. Also, you cannot hem the ceiling with sheets of fiberboard and chipboard, since moisture and high temperature contribute to the release of vapors that can cause harm to human health.

Materials for insulation and vapor barrier

It is advisable to carry out external insulation only if the bathhouse is heated. It’s unlikely that anyone will make such a luxury at their dacha, so we are considering materials for internal insulation unheated bathhouse.

The frame bath does not need to be insulated, since the thermal insulation is built into the structure. In a wooden bathhouse you need to make a crate into which the insulation will be inserted. Other types of baths require insulation using more complex technology.

To complete the work, you will need mineral wool, the thickness of which is selected depending on the material used in the construction of the bathhouse and climatic conditions. Usually a layer of at least 50 mm is laid. The insulation can be in the form of mats or in rolls.

As for vapor barrier, it is important to know that it is not waterproofing. Each has its own purpose. Even an inexpensive vapor barrier will fulfill its role, while waterproofing used for other purposes can negate all the work.

What you especially need to pay attention to is not to purchase a fake.

Decoration Materials

Since we are talking about a bathhouse in the country, we will not talk about luxurious types of decoration. The best option wood will be used: lining or similar facing materials.

As for exterior finishing, it can be any material that is used for cladding houses. If the bathhouse is made of rounded logs, then it would be unreasonable to close the already beautiful facade something else.

Construction of a bathhouse

Now let's look at how you can build a bathhouse in your country house with your own hands. It is clear that the work will be easier to complete with an assistant, who may be one of the family members. At the initial stage of work, some tasks can be given to children. Of course, they will not do everything and not as quickly as we would like, but if they feel that they are needed, then they will then be more careful about the bathhouse built with their participation.

But let’s be realistic, small children will help a little, and if you build alone, it will be a long-term construction, especially since some work simply cannot be completed alone. As you read the article, you will see when and how many assistants may be needed - this will help you plan everything.

Marking

So, the plan has been chosen, the location has been decided, now let’s start marking the area. To do this, you need to transfer the outline of the bathhouse to the area in accordance with the scale specified in the project. In the place where the corner of the building will be located, a long peg (or reinforcement) is driven in, and the lengths of two walls located at an angle of 90° are measured from it. The next pegs are hammered in there, and the distances of other walls are measured from them. Finally, the last, fourth peg is driven in.

Now that there is a designated perimeter of the future building, you need to check how straight the corners are. To do this, you need to check along the axes - measure the distance from one peg to another. The received data must match. If this is not the case, then the plane must be shifted, “shortening” the longest axis. After this, you will need to check not only the axes, but also other dimensions, and, if necessary, adjust again.

If the foundation is strip, then a small discrepancy can be left, but for a pile or column foundation, the markings must be very accurately done.

So we designated the dimensions of the bathhouse in accordance with the design data. Further marking is carried out depending on what the foundation will be. More details about this can be found in the table.

Type of foundation	Where is marking used and how is it done?
Slab foundation	Due to its high cost, this type of foundation is done only in cases where it cannot be done without. The markings are made according to the dimensions of the building or a little larger when it is necessary for the foundation to be wider and longer than the bathhouse.
Tape Shallow strip foundation	A very common type of foundation. Relatively inexpensive and durable. The marking is carried out in such a way that the concrete-filled tape runs along the perimeter of the building and under the partitions.
Columnar Columnar foundation	This type of foundation can also often be found. It is mainly used for mounting wooden buildings on it. Depending on the dimensions of the bath, markings are carried out according to the number of supports being manufactured.
Screw Screw foundation	It is believed that this type of foundation is new, but this is an erroneous conclusion made on the basis of the fact that it has recently begun to be used in civil engineering. The screw foundation has stood the test of time, since the military began to use it long ago. The advantage of installing a foundation on screw piles is the speed and simplicity of its installation. The second advantage is that there is no need to perform excavation, so the area will remain clean. In addition, with its help you can build a bathhouse even on a site that has a significant slope. The marking is done according to the number of piles and no deviation to the side is allowed.

Weigh the pros and cons, and then make your final decision regarding the choice of foundation type.

Pouring the foundation

Manufacturing of shallow strip foundation acceptable under the following conditions:

1. The soil on the site is dry and non-flowing.
2. The groundwater level is quite low.
3. In winter the frosts are not very severe.
4. The buildings are not heavy.

Don't try to guess the type of foundation for a heavy structure. If you are not sure, then invite specialists who, after performing the appropriate checks, will give an accurate answer.

Let's start with the simpler and most often made shallow foundation for a bathhouse.

• We have the external markings, now we need to complete the internal ones, taking into account that the width of the foundation must be at least 50 cm, and must protrude beyond the building by 5-10 cm on each side. Therefore, if the bathhouse is 3x4 m, then the largest size along the outer perimeter will be 3.2x4.2 m.
• It is important to take into account the installation location of the stove and at the same time make a foundation for it.
• For convenience, you need to install wooden structures similar to benches in the corners. They need to be aligned in the same plane according to the height of the future formwork and a measuring cord should be attached to them. How to do this is shown in the illustration.

For strip foundations, markings are performed along both the external and internal contours

• You need to remove the fertile top layer of soil and put it aside, then dig a trench, the clay from which can then be used as bedding.
• As for the depth of the trench, in some cases it can be 35 cm. Much depends on the depth of freezing and the soil itself. You need to get to the bottom of the solid clay layer and under no circumstances stop on the ground. Therefore, most often the depth is within the range of 50–60 cm.
• The bottom of the trench must be leveled by checking its horizontalness with a level.
• Now it’s time for the sand bedding. You need to pour a layer of sand at least 15 cm thick inside the trench, moisten it with water and compact it well. For this, it would be more convenient to use a vibrating rammer, but you can also do it manually, using a heavy block with handles nailed to it.
• The next layer is filled with crushed stone of the middle fraction and is also carefully compacted.
• Now it’s the turn of the formwork, the height of which should reach the stretched cord. It can be made from scrap materials or timber harvested for other purposes, since this temporary structure will be dismantled shortly after the foundation is poured. The finished shields must be installed along the trench and secured well, otherwise the poured concrete may move them out of place.

The formwork must be securely fastened. You can also immediately insert the sleeve to conduct communications later

• In order not to stain the boards, and to prevent concrete from leaking out through the cracks, the formwork is covered from the inside with plastic film, which must be secured with a stapler or thin nails.
• Now you need to make a frame from metal or plastic fittings, fastened with binding wire.

You can perform all calculations in our online calculator.

• The manufactured frame should not reach the edges by 5 cm. It must be carefully lowered into the trench so as not to tear the film protecting the formwork. To raise the frame above the bedding, you need to place pieces of granite under it, since, unlike brick, it will not crumble when exposed to moisture.
• If any communications will pass through the foundation, then you need to leave holes for them; sleeves will help with this, as was done in the photo above. The same applies to the manufacture of products.
• Plan your time so that you can pour the foundation with concrete in a day, since breaks are not allowed here - then the tape will not be monolithic. It is convenient to deliver the concrete with a mixer and pour it directly from it, otherwise it will have to be mixed in a concrete mixer, on the basis that you will need 1 bucket of M400 cement, 3 sand, and 5 buckets of crushed stone (or gravel).
• The foundation poured with concrete should be compacted with a vibrator or pinned. After shrinkage, you need to add a little concrete and level the site. If you are making a foundation for a wooden house, then you need to fix the foundation bolts in the uncured concrete.
• No earlier than a week later the formwork can be removed.

It should be remembered that the concrete has not yet reached its full strength, so it must be handled with care or wait 28 days, and only then build a bathhouse.

Video: building a foundation for a bathhouse

Wall masonry

When building a bathhouse from blocks, stone or brick, you need to level the foundation with cement-sand mortar and lay roofing felt on it, folded in half. Masonry starts from the corners. Having installed the first blocks on the cement-sand mortar, you need to make sure that they are in the same plane and only after that a string is stretched along the upper outer edge, which serves as a guide for laying a whole series of building materials.

When laying the next row, the masonry mixture may differ: on cement-sand mortar a wall is erected from brick and shell rock, while mixtures recommended by the manufacturer are used for laying lightweight blocks.

Having installed the lintels above the doors and windows, you need to install the formwork on top and make an armored belt, securing the foundation bolts in it for subsequent fastening of the Mauerlat board. After the concrete has hardened, it will be possible to begin making the roof.

Construction of a bath frame

The basis of such a bathhouse is a wooden frame, which is insulated and sheathed with various types of finishing materials. You need to choose high-quality materials and follow the sequence of their installation.

To make the frame, you will need boards made of well-dried larch, aspen or linden, because this wood has low thermal conductivity. The manufactured shields will be resistant to deformation.

On the foundation, a lower frame frame is made from 100×100 mm timber. At the ends of the bars you need to make cuts half the thickness and fasten them together with self-tapping screws. If 50×100 mm bars are used, then the frame can be assembled end-to-end using metal corners. The dimensions of the bar used depend on the type of foundation, design and size of the bathhouse.

Making a base for a frame bath

• At the next stage, the end trim board is installed, and the floor joists are attached right next to it. A timber of 50×100 mm is used.
• On the opposite side, the logs are cut so that a second end trim board can be installed.
• The logs need to be arranged so that the prepared insulation becomes closely between them, then the end trim boards are nailed.
• The wall frame is assembled from 50x100 mm timber, and then installed in place, all parts are fastened into a single structure.

To ensure vapor barrier of a frame bath, you need to use a vapor barrier film, which will avoid the accumulation of moisture inside the frame. Mineral wool or fiberglass is used as thermal insulation material. They are able to provide high level sealing without disturbing natural air exchange.

It is preferable to carry out insulation and wall cladding after installation of the roof. This approach will protect the wood and insulation from getting wet.

Floor

Concrete floor installation with wood flooring

If in frame bath All that remains is to insulate the floor and lay the floorboard, but for other buildings you will have to work harder - you need to install joists, make a subfloor, fix a vapor barrier, lay insulation, perform waterproofing, lay a floorboard, which will have to be replaced in a few years. Considering that the dacha at the dacha will not be thoroughly dried due to lack of time for this, because after the weekend you will need to quickly leave for the city, then if there is such an opportunity, it would be preferable to make a concrete floor and cover it with tiles. Wooden panels are laid on it, which can be taken out to the barn to dry and then safely go home.

Wooden floor with insulation

It is clear that for frame and other buildings installed on a columnar or pile foundation, only a wooden floor with insulation is acceptable. This process is described in more detail in the next two videos.

Video: how to install floor beams, make insulation and ensure drainage in the bathhouse

Roof construction

Any bathhouse should have a reliable roof, but the options for creating it may be different. In any case, you need to lay waterproofing and then thermal insulation, think about the type of roof and the choice of suitable roofing material. Without waterproofing, steam will easily penetrate into the attic and, settling on beams and rafters, will contribute to their rapid destruction. In addition, the condensation formed on the roofing material will begin to flow onto the insulation, which will affect the properties and durability of the latter.

The type of terrain has a great influence on the choice of roofing type, since it is necessary to take into account technical specifications buildings.

• So, in a holiday village, especially when it is located among tall trees, you can safely make a high gable roof.
• If the dacha is located in a steppe zone, blown by all the winds, then the slope for the roof should be minimal.
• For small bathhouses and light snow loads, the roof can be made pitched. The same roof is most often made on a bathhouse attached to the house.

Video: how to make a bathhouse roof

Interior and exterior decoration

Although wood is most often used for interior decoration, not all wood is suitable for this purpose. It is necessary to choose the right material, especially for a steam room, in which a high temperature is created with high humidity. It should be said right away that pine lumber, as well as fiberboard, chipboard and linoleum, cannot be used to decorate this room. Therefore, you need to purchase lining made of larch or linden.

As for other rooms, the conditions there are not so extreme, and therefore there are no such high requirements for the material used - what cannot be used in a steam room is perfect for a relaxation room and dressing room. The pine lining in the dressing room will exude pleasant aroma and will create a feeling of comfort.

Finishing a wooden and brick bathhouse with clapboard is done almost the same way. First, the sheathing is attached to the wall, and then the lining is attached to it. An exception is the steam room, in which there should be heat-reflecting foil under the lathing.

Exterior finishing is done not only to make the bathhouse beautiful, but also to protect it. To decorate the outside of the bath, you can use the following materials:

• Imitation of timber.
• Siding.
• Lining.
• Block house.
• Facade tiles.
• Dye.

All you have to do is choose the appropriate material and finish the facade.

Ventilation in the bath

Sometimes there is also the opinion that good ventilation in the steam room is useless, since all the heat comes out through it, and it is made very weak, or it is absent altogether. But there is another extreme, when the ventilation process is not controlled, and heat evaporates from the bathhouse. It is very hot in such a steam room at the top, and your feet are cold.

In fact, during bathing procedures, the air in the room should be renewed 2-3 times per hour, but this is not enough, since ventilation must be done correctly. Usually the inlet is located below near the boiler, and the exhaust under the ceiling on the opposite side. While the steam room is warming up, the exhaust window is closed. Then it opens and warm air begins to rapidly escape from the room. As a result, the steam room becomes cool and uncomfortable. You can make ventilation as in the diagram.

Air circulation diagram in the steam room

This device allows you to hold back warm air under the ceiling, and half-cooled air comes out through the hole located below (B), so it will be comfortable in the steam room. When you need to thoroughly ventilate the steam room, the upper ventilation hole (A) opens.

In addition to the steam room, ventilation is necessary in every room of the bathhouse. In order not to waste precious heat, you can make it possible to close the ventilation holes during those hours when there is no need for ventilation.

Furniture

You can make the canopy and all the furniture for a country bathhouse yourself. If you don’t want to make anything else, then there are many offers online for selling everything you need for your garden.

If you really want to save on furniture, you can review old stocks. Maybe there is something that needs repair, but you just can’t get around to it? After a little restoration, such furniture can last for a considerable period. The main requirement is not to use furniture made of chipboard, as this material will deteriorate very quickly from high humidity.

Do-it-yourself metal children's swing for outdoor dachas

The steam room room should be small; the popularity of projects for small one-story bathhouses is often higher than for full-size buildings 5x7 m or even 8x12 m. According to many experts in bathing, comfort and free space in a small-sized sauna or bathhouse, you get less steam, but the steam produced is significantly greater hotter and richer.

Which bathhouse project to choose

If you do not go into the intricacies of the bathhouse process, but focus only on objective indicators, then the construction of a small one-story bathhouse looks more attractive from all points of view:

• Low costs for drawing up a project and erecting a one-story building;
• Minimum consumption of firewood or electricity;
• Long service life of a one-story bathhouse.

The last point has always remained a mystery for many customers, and for developers of standard projects for one-story baths, although there is nothing unusual about it. A small one-story building, in which a steam room or sauna takes up most of the usable space, warms up and dries many times faster, better and more efficiently than huge bath houses with billiards and a swimming pool.

But comfort remains comfort; even for a summer cottage as a temporary shelter, there is no point in choosing a project with a minimum level of comfort. At a minimum, even in a small bathhouse there are two compartments:

• Steam room, which is allocated at least 3 m 2;
• Locker room or rest room 2-3 m2;
• A small shower behind a partition, which in many small bathhouse designs replaces a suspended wooden bucket or tank of water.

For your information! In the project of a summer one-story bathhouse, instead of a locker room or rest room, a covered terrace or canopy can be used.

This does not mean that all winter bath projects are much more comfortable and convenient than summer ones. Often the sauna box itself is built a short distance from the house next to an artificial pond or swimming pool. According to the design, the one-story winter bathhouse contains nothing but a very hot Russian steam room, a brick heater that occupies half the building, and a small dressing room in which you can leave shoes and outerwear thrown over your shoulders.

According to the owners, all amenities are in the house. The steaming process is as close as possible to a Russian bath with short-term gatherings in a small, very hot steam room, dipping into an ice bath or dousing with water, followed by a long rest in comfortable conditions, in the house.

What material should I use for a bathhouse project?

The construction of even the smallest one-story bathhouse requires a very thoughtful and balanced calculation. If there is no ready-made sample, for example, from friends or neighbors, from which you can copy the solution, then it is best to order a layout or use one of the standard designs for small-sized one-story baths. Anything that is built at random, as a rule, heats poorly and does not last long.

In the vast majority of cases, small baths are built from wood; this can be a building project made of timber, logs, or even a frame version with double insulation and facade finishing with siding.

Ardent fans of Finnish saunas often order projects made from SIP panels or hollow red brick blocks. A small one-story building on stilts, depending on the design, can retain and maintain heat in a steam room for almost two days from the moment the electric heater is turned off or the stove is turned off.

Universal projects and solutions for one-story baths

The most budget-friendly option for a one-story steam room can be called a bath structure assembled in the form of a barrel on a low-power columnar foundation. Despite its apparent simplicity, the room has a small locker room and a dressing room, separated by a partition with a steam room.

In a small bathhouse, up to four people can steam at the same time, but the project is not very convenient for so many people due to the fact that you can only walk through the room along the center line of the room. If a fire or any emergency occurs, it will not be easy to quickly leave a small room. This type of bathhouse is convenient to use as a seasonal steam room in a suburban area.

Classic log bathhouse

A real Russian bathhouse should be built from logs. A properly built log house can stand without repair for at least 15 years. Moreover, the walls of a one-story building are often not even insulated according to the design, only the facade is periodically updated, and the joints are minted on the windows and lower crowns of the building.

As an example of a project made from a 3x4 m bathhouse log, you can use the photo below.

This is exactly the case when the developer managed to invest in the project important construction solutions that are usually ignored by non-professionals:

• The entrance to the bathhouse, locker room and steam room are on the same line. There are small windows in each of the steam rooms and locker rooms, as well as in the entrance door. This means that in case of heavy smoke or gas poisoning, you can always leave the room without any problems;
• The roof of a one-story building was built according to all the rules of science. For bathhouses - log houses 3x3 m or more, the roof overhangs are made very long. This allows you to effectively retain heat, get rid of condensation and protect the building from rain and wind;
• At the entrance to the bathhouse there is a covered platform under a canopy. For a small bathhouse there is no point in building a full-fledged terrace, but a canopy over the entrance will help organize summer gatherings in the evening, after the steam room.

In general, the project turned out to be successful, durable and, like all good things, very expensive; on average, the construction of a small one-story log bathhouse will require at least 300 thousand rubles.

A more affordable project for a 3x3 m log bathhouse is shown in the diagram below.

As in the previous case, the box of a one-story building is assembled from 200 mm logs.

The room is divided in the classic way into three sections:

• A dressing room combined with a rest room;
• Small washing room;
• Steam room with an area of ​​3.5 m2.

Minus of this project a one-story bathhouse is an unsuccessful roof design. If you build a steam room, as they say, in an open field, then it is best to use a roof, as in the photo.

Timber bath projects

The construction of even a small one-story steam room is always associated with the problem of allocating a free local area. Therefore, we have to look for projects for the smallest bathhouse buildings. The timber has a remarkable property - it can be used to build an arbitrarily small bathhouse, down to the size of a doghouse. One of the options for a 2 by 2 m bath is shown below.

The steam room is assembled from logs, all other parts are from timber. The result is an inexpensive one-story sauna, warm and durable. Walls made of timber do not retain heat very well, so the room is traditionally lined with siding or upholstered with a block house.

A more civilized version of the previous project involves arranging a canopy and a small summer terrace. Such designs are very popular for small country houses and dachas, where most of the site is occupied by beds, fruit trees and shrubs.

Any sauna or steam room in the yard is always fraught with problems with melted snow, the appearance of puddles and, as a result, the need to deal with groundwater. This problem cannot be neglected, otherwise the base part of the timber frame will rot in 3-5 years.

At a minimum, you will need to make a full foundation blind area, lay drainage and cast a concrete walkway. If you have to install a small bathhouse on an unprepared site, then it is best to immediately place the steam room box on a columnar foundation or piles.

Small bathhouse design projects

The most common planning is to divide the premises into three sections. The entrance to the building according to the project can be located from the front of the building or from the side.

In the first case, the convenient location of the entrance door allows you to achieve maximum comfort for summer recreation on the site next to the steam room building.

In this case, the maximum space is allocated directly under the relaxation room and the attached terrace, usually its area is at least 4-7 m2, the rest of the interior space is given over to a steam room and a small sink.

The side entrance to the bathhouse is used mainly for bathhouse projects with a “carriage” layout of the room.

The design turns out to be quite simple to manufacture; you can use a shorter beam or log, which significantly reduces the cost of construction.

In practice, the tandem arrangement of rooms is considered a necessary measure. Such projects are used in cases where it was possible to inexpensively purchase material for construction, or the format of the site does not allow the construction of a more economical and warm bathhouse with a square layout.

The smallest baths 2x3 and 3x4 m can be built according to projects in which the room is divided into only two rooms - a steam room with a sink and a dressing room.

Such simplification in the project is also considered a necessary measure; an increase in the number of rooms has practically no effect on the level of comfort or atmosphere in the steam room, and additional partitions in a small bathhouse only lead to meaningless losses of usable space.

How to design a small bathhouse

Experts consider the most practical and convenient project to be one with a small covered terrace at the entrance to the premises.

A project with a terrace can be developed and combined with a bathhouse with a gazebo under one roof.

The largest number of applications are received by projects of one-story bathhouses with an extension for a barbecue or fireplace.

Essentially, this is a new format summer kitchen with a built-in small bathhouse for a suburban area. The developers tried to create a one-story building made of timber that would best meet the needs of vacationers outside the city.

When drawing up a future sauna project, you don’t have to try to copy traditional shapes and designs; you can always find a more original design. For example, a small one-story sauna room with a gazebo can be built in the European style.

The most unusual design of a small bathhouse involves extensive use of brick, metal, timber and glass. The building looks quite unusual and attractive, and will certainly raise a lot of questions from neighbors and friends.

In essence, this is a new idea for drawing up projects, in which the bathhouse space looks less and less like an old wooden “birdhouse”.

Conclusion

Modern projects of one-story baths are becoming more and more unusual and interesting, both from the point of view of design and internal layout. The only thing that stops the mass buyer from introducing them is the high price of the building. A simple small chopped bathhouse made of timber or logs costs about 3 thousand dollars, while the price of an ultra-modern project can easily exceed 10 thousand dollars. The choice in this case is obvious; it is better to build a small, time-tested Russian steam room than a modern monster made of glass and metal.